I am sure it is for sale and can put anyone interested in touch via a PM to me.

I am not selling, but as this is a rare item I thought it would be of interest and perhaps too good to miss.

Roy

Hi all just seen an untouched and complete Inga IV kit in a nice box as well.
Roy

Thanks for the info. I ordered the same parts only yesterday, here hopefully on Monday.

Just having a float around on the www. and found these on Ebay. The seller seems to have them in several sizes , and they are pretty close to those I have that came from Graupner.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386391372184?hash=item59f6b87198:g:SMsAAOSww-9ldGgP&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4JN8erMNY%2BY3EctUzYg9zVCo5na89o8mmh5sHROk5frLGLUVwIQ2j4sqWYp4NQCaOJ9xiHqour%2B9Ze98pnl%2FymKK0h7Z7MMXBqzJn1DYGEGPJraj%2BT%2FkJxtHZ%2F4mv2aGKIFpzd2xCSKyP9VsZ7eqqtdpKTJfccAUqsgNZZCIJ%2BMGUYoxLd1c2HrJUQDuSzPcc7Za%2FzG2%2Bw99lS9vgVf0uBpuQDOA2davDiRXC71h1fJmBt5f2pT5Vns8qD7Se0ZOOo26ZrdicoUJLQe%2FdhjmhffpIcgTMulJ6HhLJZYWHdqh%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9KSmrKKYw

Thanks for the heads up on Graham Bantock. He stocks some really useful sail making stuff. 😉

Just a quickie.

For those of you not using the original sails or buying a replacement set from Frank Parsons @ Nylet and intending to make your own, you may find the items here useful. I have been making both flat and panelled sails for yachts up to Inga size for a while and having the right stuff available is a godsend. Also great for small turnbuckles, wire etc on other bits of the site. As to turnbuckles, the most scale-like that I have found were made by Graupner. Not sure if they are still available or if there are similar around.


https://www.sailsetc2.com/index.php/products-by-category/sails/sail-making-materials.html

The deadeyes are 10mm in diameter. The 3 holes are 2mm each. I was only working from plans. I had no guarantees that the plan would work. I set up one pair of deadeyes, braided string between them, a chainplate attached to a simulated section of hull, and a shroud wire attached to the upper deadeye. Next the shroud wire was attached to the ceiling of the shop. The lower end of the simulated hull section was attached to a 20kg pail of water and left to hang for 6 months while I worked on other parts of the boat.
The sail winch motors are either a piece of work DaVinci would be pleased with or they are junk. But they can vertically lift 5kg, one meter up, in 13 seconds

Hi Ross.

You wrote:
"I tested the deadeyes under static load for months with no failures", but are you talking about real ships or models?

The ravings of an old nutter seem to fit perfectly with the thoughts and niggles of another old nutter. You my friend have allayed many of my worries today and I thank you for it, you are a gentleman
By asking a couple of questions today we have had quite an in-depth discussion between a few members, who I feel have all gained something from it
Thankyou everyone who has participated
Roger.

Just to throw another idea in the mix regarding the original query, if using a single servo arm proves complicated would it be an option to take a Y lead off the received to run two servos off a single channel, one for each sail?

Tiggy_cat certainly not ravings but some brilliant ideas for me to run through and consider which knock lots of my ideas in the head.
I think most of us building this model will if not now but in the future thank you greatly for sharing your not inconsiderable experience.
I thank you very much ChrisG

This definitely sounds of someone who has been this route before

Just a few thought to all of you gents building Inga IV's regarding the rigging.

I realise that there is a great temptation to go as close to scale as possible, but let me offer a few thoughts which you may or may not find helpful.

1) Standing rigging: When you are coming up with a scheme for this, just consider that
a) you have to keep the boat somewhere when not sailing. Do you keep it fully rigged? Derigged, if so by how much?.
b) You have to get it to the lake to sail it. Will it go into your car ready to go or will you have to rig it at the lake.
c) If you have to rig it before sailing, how much time do you want to spend setting up before getting on to the water?
d) When something goes wrong at the lake (and it will) do you want to be able to fix it quickly or spend ages taking everything apart to get at something silly .

To me, the answer to the above gleaned from quite a few years sailing is to use the minimum of standing rigging, with strength where necessary. It has been a long time since I had my Inga but based on current experience my way would be;
i) Fishing trace wire (say 50lbs) as a forestay through a pocket on the front of the jib rising to an eye on the mast, with small hook on the wire . The sail uphaul itself being fishing braid from top of sail to the same point as the forestay, hook again but with bowsie to allow tension to be altered.
ii) Main mast stayed with one set of wire shrouds down to deck eyes either side and a spreader half way up mast. Again a hook at both ends of shrouds to allow them to be removed. The shrouds obviously use turnbuckles to apply tension.

iii) Trace wire from top of main to mizzen mast set to hold them at appropriate distance apart, then backstay from top of mizzen to deck to tension both main and mizzen. Personally I would make the backstays from braid with a hook to fit into deck eye and including a bowsie to allow adjustment.
iv) I would be tempted to keep the jib boom on the boat and hook on the sail before each session. Since the option being followed appears to be sails with a bolt rope in a mast channel, I would regard the main and mizzens with their sails on as one unit and keep them off the boat.

If possible, no wires or mast to pass through parts of the cabins that need to be removed to get at interior kit. Had a boat once where the mast went through the cabin roof and it was a pain in the proverbial.

Running rigging; As mentioned previously, I would use a lever arm arrangement, keeping runs as simple and straight as possible. I would obviously use braid for these. I would look for attachment points somewhere about 2/3 of the way from the front of each boom as it means you need less travel of the sheets to control the booms. I would put bowsies in these so the relationship of each sail can be varied to suit conditions. I am not sure if I would use a solid kicking strap on the main or not. Don't think the original plans show one. Probably get away with a braid one, again with with a bowsie to hold it down,

I am sure that you will all have you own ideas on what you want. I offer these thoughts in the hope that it might help you decide how best to tackle your boats. Or you can regard them as the ravings of some old nutter and carry on as you think best😂.

"Rogal118
Dont throw the original hardware away, the winch servo may be converted to operate an arm, worth a try I would think"

It is quite tricky to convert a multi turn drum servo to use an arm which only has about 90 degrees of travel required. The Futaba winch servo that you have is quite sought after, so you may well be able to sell it and offset the cost of an arm servo.

Purely as an aside, I have had two of the S110 servos in the past, both of which were sold to a concrete company in Perth , Australia. They had concrete testing machines in their lab which used this servo for some reason and the servos meant that they didn't have to scrap the machines and buy new ones!

If you would like to stay closer to scale (as I plan to do with the boat under construction) then yes, toss the idea for adjustable boom attachment. The double arm with multiple holes would be the way to go, especially if there is enough space under deck. The 65's have lack of space and lack of scale, hence winch drums with adjusters

On the STAR I sail, I have gone to the SS shroud lines and turnbuckles. On the 65's I have dacron/bowsies. For the one under construction, SS lines and DEADEYES (yes, really). I tested the deadeyes under static load for months with no failures

Rogal118
Dont throw the original hardware away, the winch servo may be converted to operate an arm, worth a try I would think.
ChrisG

The sail servo that came with my Inga and I was assured that it was up to the job has an arm of 120mm and is a
Hitec HS 715BB which I think is available and a lot cheaper that 10 years ago.
ChrisG

Hi RossM. Yes I see what you also explain. I would imagine this has the same effect as moving the position on the servo arm if I understand correctly.with the IngaIV being large enough inside and having wide access I would prefer to do this and keep the semi scale appearance. Whereas the “65s” are I would imagine purely racing function for quick adjustability . Thanks for your thoughts.

"Tiggy- cat that makes a lot of sense. Just shows what another pair of eyes can see. I was only going down the drum servo route as it was with the hull. It can be seen in the photo. Will a strong servo be needed though, I would imagine a drum has more torque than an arm?"
▲
A reasonably strong one is advisable. I would go with a metal geared one from choice

Hello
You are getting some great advice, since my answer to your rigging questions I have checked the rig on my 1mtr racing yacht and that massive mast is held up using 7 strand stainless wire of 50 lb. If it will hold that in

a blow

it will be more than enough for Inga. Please ignore my mention of single strand, its been a long wet day.
I like tiggy-cat idea for an arm on the servo instead of a drum, certainly would seem easier to rig.
I have had a conversation with RossM (on the side) about the number of stays on Inga, my donor hull has 6 points per mast 3 each side as has the plan. When I collected my hull the masts were secured with one wire stay central to the three and the other two each side were braided line with bowsies. Now I have never seen bowsies on a full size yacht, often adjustable lines on the windward side, swopped over when going about but never bowsies. I think when I come to rig mine I shall have all of the shrouds in wire and adjustable from the deck.
This will of course entail me in butchering the superstructure but as I dont find it at all pleasant to look at it will be no hardship.
Regards ChrisG

SETTING THE BOOMS AND THEIR SHEETS
Having done a little bit of sailing on DF65 & RG65 and received instruction from more experienced club members, I have learned to leave the attachment point of the sheet to the boom ADJUSTABLE. With the little 65's I like to have the jib moving out less than the main. For this, the sheet attachment is farther out on the boom than the main attachment. If the booms all have movable attachment points, this becomes part of the tuning for rigging set up. So the sheet attachment should slide forward and back on the booms

Tiggy- cat that makes a lot of sense. Just shows what another pair of eyes can see. I was only going down the drum servo route as it was with the hull. It can be seen in the photo. Will a strong servo be needed though, I would imagine a drum has more torque than an arm?

Hi Guys,

Just a thought re the amount of sheet travel. If you use a servo with an arm on rather than a drum winch, you can vary the travel available by making the lengths of the arms assymetric. I would look at the jib and mainsail being controlled by one (longer) side of the arm and the mizzen off of a shorter side of the arm, giving less travel of the sheet for the same servo movement. Since the hull is reasonably wide, an arm winch should be quite feasible.

Hi ChrisG
Thanks for your input. I am only at this stage because I bought the hull and deck off eBay. The planked deck is perfect, just needed a good clean. The hull I sanded down and re sprayed. Re worked the prop shaft with new glands and shaft + prop. Everything else I am having to fabricate as all the other parts are missing.this has turned out to be a steep learning curve as I have never owned, built or sailed any sort of yacht before. Or even watched one from the pond side. All I have to go on is utube videos, the plans supplied by Frankie. And the bottomless knowledge of the modellers on this wonderful site of ours. Where hopefully you can find anything, you have just got to ask the correct questions!!. The electrics were in the hull but I’m junking them as the look antique, see photo. I have all but two window frames and feel confident I can make 2 to match the others. Also your other question about the rear cabin. That is missing too. I intend to remake, but will make the sides fixed and the roof in 2 halves so as to make it easy to access the internals without having to dismantle the mizzen mast. Well that’s the plan unless someone advises that it’s not feasible!!.

Hello
I am very interested in this series of conversations about your Inga although have a long way to go to be at your build stage.
Single strand stainless steel wire works well and is easily and cheaply available at fishing tackle shop, try No.8, 86lb test, .020 diameter for standing rigging.
45 degrees to the mast is too far for a big boat but looking at the positioning of the stays on the plan my belief is that they are about right.
Can I ask, was the removal of the rear part of the superstructure deliberately done to make the top easily removed and how do you plan to fill the void? or should I wait and see when you have finished what is looking a lovely piece of work.
Best regards ChrisG

Yes that seems to make sense, I was just under the impression that the sail servo let the same amount of cord for all three sails, I just imagined the main sail to travel at least to 45 deg and all others to do the same. But due to my nievety and never sailed a model yacht before maybe this is enough of an angle.
Hopefully someone more experienced in this subject can put my mind straight.
Do you set the sail servo to only travel the max amount of the mizzen boom??.
Thankyou Roger

I’m a bit surprised by the rear mast stay position too. As you know I’ve not made my Inga yet but judging by this photo of somebody else’s Inga model (attached) that’s exactly where they go. As an ex dingy sailor I have no fear of jibing but I know the big yacht sailors find the prospect of jibing all three booms at the same time just that much too exciting so they rarely run directly before the wind so maybe the maximum travel of the rear boom is not much of an issue?

Yes that does help RossM. Thankyou for your response to both those questions. What I might add is, with the sail area of the Inga is 40 pound strain enough for the Inga?. Can anyone with an Inga IV let me know what’s in their kit or used on their yacht?.

INGA IV is starting to really take shape!
A I got cording for sail from the drapery and blinds people. I was told to stay away from the twisted type and go for the braided type. Braided type won't try to un-twist and tangle up.
B I am planning on using 0.75mm plastic coated multi-strand stainless steel fishing line. It has 7 strands. I think it is rated at about 40 pounds test. I hung a piece from the basement joists with 20 kilo of water in the pail, for 6 months. It will break at 100 pounds. Is that what you are asking about?

Thanks for sharing 👍, I was wondering about the rigging on the Osprey when I get that far and it's given me some references 😀