Rough sand the styrene surface and use epoxy. If it's small pieces like fitting I use canopy white glue. it dries clear.also works on painted surfaces

I just remembered that I used JB Weld for my motor mounts and rudder posts in my Krick Dusseldorf 54 inch long fireboat (under construction). I can lift the hull up by holding the motor mount and shake it vigorously and everything holds great. Now that is cementing ABS to the styrene hull. We know JB Weld works well with wood so this confirms that it works well with this plastic. Follow the sanding prep I mentioned previously.

Lew
Florida 🚤, USA

Good luck Steve I have a fairwind being repaired wooden rails under deck going to give jb plastic weld a go hope it holds 🤞🤞

Two more thoughts on cementing styrene (PVC...) to wood.

○ If you can make sure the joint is wide enough (more contact surface area) need to increase?
○ Make the plastic surface a little rougher (not fine), and make sure any particle are cleared (clean with alcohol).

Lew
Florida, USA

Keep in mind that when you use zip kicker it will reduce the overall strength of the joint. I use it but not on a joint that needs maximum strength. Len

Have found that the high viscosity CA from Everbuild works on Plastruct and Plasticard. I roughen the surface slightly with a scotch pad first.

The HV version sits on the surface rather thank wicking away so remains in place while putting on some light pressure for 30 seconds until cured.


https://www.toolstation.com/hv-super-glue/p78871

I too am a huge fan of Zip-Kicker or similar accelerants used in tandem with CA's. I also will spray a bit in a jar and sacrifice a cheap brush to set a certain join instead of spraying the kicker all over the place. I keep a collection of crappy brushes just for that purpose. 😉

For card stick I use these. If it’s plastic to plastic I use plastruct or ca with freeze spray. The big navy ship is fiberglass hull, cardstock deck n superstructure and 3D PLA guns, doors and parts. The card stock used plastruct and CA at corners to reinforce. Card stock over large area n to fiberglass the goo worked well. CA tax points n masking tape kept them tight until goo dried. I used clear goo to hold clear sheet to plastic posts on my Creole wires railings.,the rails were printed on adhesive clear the stuck to sheet clear plastic styrene. The goo worked well n was clear. Hope this helps. I’m in California now picked up old linberg kit Clairmont pic of that geared paddles. I will RC it whike here for use in pool.

The material is listed as styrene.
Will give the alcohol cleaning a try.

Hi Steve:
Styrene and wood joins with CA usually work. Is the plasti-card a vinyl? Vinyl can be resistant to many of the glues that we are used to. JB Weld or Devcon 2 part epoxy...the clear smelly versions (not JB's black "metal" super slow 2-part epoxy) should work re: Fred's suggestion. BTW: I'm with Barry on the alcohol cleaning!

Steve,
You might try cleaning the plastic with alcohol before using epoxy. Slightly roughen the areas you will glue with fine sandpaper.
Try it on a piece of scrap. Some plastics seem to have a coating on them from the manufacturing process.
I hope this helps, good luck and you are doing a nice job on the boat!
Barry

Hi Steve-D
I have been using Devcon 2 ton Epoxy, I got mine from my local model shop
You have a 30 minuets holding time and a full set in 8-12 hours
Fred