EASY AND CHEAP FLASHING LED CIRCUITS
Followers (6)
- RNinMunichBronze
- Commodore-HGold
EASY AND CHEAP FLASHING LED CIRCUITS
Not quite with my eyes closed Alessandro😆
I kept burning my fingers on the soldering iron😭
You know, I've been wondering what profession you followed, considering all the tech stuff you've been posting?
Cheers, Doug😎
PS I always have stock of 555s as well as the dual version 556.
I kept burning my fingers on the soldering iron😭
You know, I've been wondering what profession you followed, considering all the tech stuff you've been posting?
Cheers, Doug😎
PS I always have stock of 555s as well as the dual version 556.
Young at heart 😉 Slightly older in other places.😊 Cheers Doug
Liked by AlessandroSPQR and hermank
EASY AND CHEAP FLASHING LED CIRCUITS
As already mentioned (see attachment) the NE555 integrated circuit is a "historic" component.
Don't worry though, because you will find it easily.
It has been so successful, it is so well known among electronics, it has so many uses that it is still widely marketed.
Dear RC naval modeller, if you are reading this topic for the first time and do not want to use an integrated component, I invite you to also read the second message of this same topic.
You can achieve the same result with single discrete components.
Even these components (transistors, resistors and capacitors) are certainly not very young, not younger than the NE555, but they will work well and you will have your flashing LED.
I prefer the first circuit because it was useful for explaining the physical functioning of the individual components to my son (a question of affection and nostalgia).
Logically these diagrams and videos are not aimed at engineers like Doug (RNIn Munich) who are capable of designing and building an ESC circuit with their eyes closed, or other more complete circuits without turning to the Chinese electronic world, as almost all of us do.
The suggestions, diagrams and all the basic information are aimed at those who are not very familiar with electronics but have the desire and patience to make small and simple circuits.
From this perspective I hope I have been useful to someone.
Don't worry though, because you will find it easily.
It has been so successful, it is so well known among electronics, it has so many uses that it is still widely marketed.
Dear RC naval modeller, if you are reading this topic for the first time and do not want to use an integrated component, I invite you to also read the second message of this same topic.
You can achieve the same result with single discrete components.
Even these components (transistors, resistors and capacitors) are certainly not very young, not younger than the NE555, but they will work well and you will have your flashing LED.
I prefer the first circuit because it was useful for explaining the physical functioning of the individual components to my son (a question of affection and nostalgia).
Logically these diagrams and videos are not aimed at engineers like Doug (RNIn Munich) who are capable of designing and building an ESC circuit with their eyes closed, or other more complete circuits without turning to the Chinese electronic world, as almost all of us do.
The suggestions, diagrams and all the basic information are aimed at those who are not very familiar with electronics but have the desire and patience to make small and simple circuits.
From this perspective I hope I have been useful to someone.
EASY AND CHEAP FLASHING LED CIRCUITS
Classic astable multivibrator circuits Lew👍
Replace the timing capacitors with resistors and add switches from each base to ground; Set and Reset, and you can turn them into latching circuits.😉
😎
Replace the timing capacitors with resistors and add switches from each base to ground; Set and Reset, and you can turn them into latching circuits.😉
😎
Young at heart 😉 Slightly older in other places.😊 Cheers Doug
EASY AND CHEAP FLASHING LED CIRCUITS
These circuits based on the 555 timer have been around for quite a while. Used these over 30 years ago. Have one in my CG boat. Lew
Lew
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
Liked by RodC and RNinMunich and
EASY AND CHEAP FLASHING LED CIRCUITS
... follows from the previous message in this topic ...
I'm happy that someone might be interested in putting a flashing LED on board their model ship.
Even in the diorama of a port it might make sense to insert a LED or several flashing LEDs.
For this reason I also wanted to show you this very simple diagram, in which there are even fewer components but the NE555 integrated circuit must be used.
In my opinion it is a valid alternative to those already illustrated because this too is easy, economical, light, takes up little space and has low consumption.
I have put two different wiring diagrams, because someone might be better off with the second one and vice versa. The third attached image reminds you of how the layout of this "historic" integrated circuit is made.
Very important, and which I would like to point out, is that the value of the capacitor determines the time interval of light (the flashing frequency).
The higher the Farad value, the longer the time (we know that the RC constant is a physical characteristic of the capacitor), the lower the value, the faster the flashing becomes.
In fact, in the video where there is a 10 micro Farad capacitor the flashing is fast while in the video where I inserted a 100 micro Farad capacitor the flashing is very slow.
With values so distant from each other you can appreciate the difference very well.
To you the choice.
In the first two videos comparing the two different capacitors I used a 9 volt battery.
In the last video I used a 6 volt battery and a switch connected to the receiver (and therefore radio controlled).
I remind you that with lower voltage the value of the electrical resistance in series with the LED must be modified. For this reason I refer you to read the previous message.
I hope it can be useful to someone.
I also attach YouTube links for those who are unable to open the videos directly.
I'm happy that someone might be interested in putting a flashing LED on board their model ship.
Even in the diorama of a port it might make sense to insert a LED or several flashing LEDs.
For this reason I also wanted to show you this very simple diagram, in which there are even fewer components but the NE555 integrated circuit must be used.
In my opinion it is a valid alternative to those already illustrated because this too is easy, economical, light, takes up little space and has low consumption.
I have put two different wiring diagrams, because someone might be better off with the second one and vice versa. The third attached image reminds you of how the layout of this "historic" integrated circuit is made.
Very important, and which I would like to point out, is that the value of the capacitor determines the time interval of light (the flashing frequency).
The higher the Farad value, the longer the time (we know that the RC constant is a physical characteristic of the capacitor), the lower the value, the faster the flashing becomes.
In fact, in the video where there is a 10 micro Farad capacitor the flashing is fast while in the video where I inserted a 100 micro Farad capacitor the flashing is very slow.
With values so distant from each other you can appreciate the difference very well.
To you the choice.
In the first two videos comparing the two different capacitors I used a 9 volt battery.
In the last video I used a 6 volt battery and a switch connected to the receiver (and therefore radio controlled).
I remind you that with lower voltage the value of the electrical resistance in series with the LED must be modified. For this reason I refer you to read the previous message.
I hope it can be useful to someone.
I also attach YouTube links for those who are unable to open the videos directly.
Liked by hermank
EASY AND CHEAP FLASHING LED CIRCUITS
... continues from the third message of this topic ...
Good evening everyone.
To use this circuit on a naval model you can use a radio-controlled switch, as can be seen in the attached photos and videos.
It is certainly better to have the possibility of turning on the LEDs (whether they are flashing or fixed) remotely rather than manually.
The switch will be connected to a channel of the receiver and will directly power the circuit.
In this case the switch will be much less useful, but you can put it anyway. I would put it.
The switch I used is only good for low currents, because it directly takes the battery current that passes through the receiver.
For higher electrical powers it is better to use another type of switch. The one that galvanically separates the circuits is better. You recognize it because it has four cables instead of two (in addition to the three that go to the receiver). Alternatively, a relay can be used.
Since I used the same voltage as the battery that powers the radio receiver, the resistance in series with the LED is lower than what I used when the power supply was 9 volts.
In this case we have a resistance of 220 Ohms.
R=(Vr-Vled)/I= (6-2)/0.018=222 Ohm.
If you are new to this type of problem and need more information you can ask me and other modelers specific questions.
I also attach the YouTube file for those who are unable to open the videos directly.
Good evening everyone.
To use this circuit on a naval model you can use a radio-controlled switch, as can be seen in the attached photos and videos.
It is certainly better to have the possibility of turning on the LEDs (whether they are flashing or fixed) remotely rather than manually.
The switch will be connected to a channel of the receiver and will directly power the circuit.
In this case the switch will be much less useful, but you can put it anyway. I would put it.
The switch I used is only good for low currents, because it directly takes the battery current that passes through the receiver.
For higher electrical powers it is better to use another type of switch. The one that galvanically separates the circuits is better. You recognize it because it has four cables instead of two (in addition to the three that go to the receiver). Alternatively, a relay can be used.
Since I used the same voltage as the battery that powers the radio receiver, the resistance in series with the LED is lower than what I used when the power supply was 9 volts.
In this case we have a resistance of 220 Ohms.
R=(Vr-Vled)/I= (6-2)/0.018=222 Ohm.
If you are new to this type of problem and need more information you can ask me and other modelers specific questions.
I also attach the YouTube file for those who are unable to open the videos directly.
EASY AND CHEAP FLASHING LED CIRCUITS
A harbor patrol boat immediately comes to mind, as that bit of ‘animation’ would make it stand out.
I remember years ago, putting a flashing red at the top of the fin of a Cessna.
Thanks for these circuits. I’m sure there are a lot of uses that they can serve. 😊
I remember years ago, putting a flashing red at the top of the fin of a Cessna.
Thanks for these circuits. I’m sure there are a lot of uses that they can serve. 😊
So many ships . . . and so little time . . .
EASY AND CHEAP FLASHING LED CIRCUITS
...continued from previous message...
TWO FLASHING LED CIRCUIT
In the first attached image there is the electrical diagram.
Compared to the diagram in the previous message, the connections change but the components are the same.
Same considerations.
A button has also been added. Logically, for a definitive practical implementation (and not just a test or demonstration), a switch is better than a button.
I hope this can be useful to someone.
I also attach YouTube links for those who are unable to open the video files directly.
TWO FLASHING LED CIRCUIT
In the first attached image there is the electrical diagram.
Compared to the diagram in the previous message, the connections change but the components are the same.
Same considerations.
A button has also been added. Logically, for a definitive practical implementation (and not just a test or demonstration), a switch is better than a button.
I hope this can be useful to someone.
I also attach YouTube links for those who are unable to open the video files directly.
EASY AND CHEAP FLASHING LED CIRCUITS
...continues from the previous message...
SINGLE FLASHING LED CIRCUIT
In the first attached image there is the electrical diagram.
There are only four electrical resistors. The value of R1 is determined by the type of LED and the power supply voltage.
The transistors I used (because I had those available) are the 2N222A BJT type.
You can use any other transistor with similar characteristics.
The capacitors are of the electrolytic type with a value of 10 microFarads (the maximum voltage must be commensurate with the supply voltages).
Logically you can insert a switch in the electrical circuit.
As you can see in the attached videos, it is possible to power with different electrical voltages but you must pay attention above all to the value of the electrical resistance in series with the LED.
In fact, with a voltage of 6 volts, leaving the same resistance, the LED is dimmer (less bright) because less electric current passes through it.
In the videos LEDs of different colors but with very similar voltage drop.
I also attach the YouTube links for those who are unable to open the videos directly from the forum.
SINGLE FLASHING LED CIRCUIT
In the first attached image there is the electrical diagram.
There are only four electrical resistors. The value of R1 is determined by the type of LED and the power supply voltage.
The transistors I used (because I had those available) are the 2N222A BJT type.
You can use any other transistor with similar characteristics.
The capacitors are of the electrolytic type with a value of 10 microFarads (the maximum voltage must be commensurate with the supply voltages).
Logically you can insert a switch in the electrical circuit.
As you can see in the attached videos, it is possible to power with different electrical voltages but you must pay attention above all to the value of the electrical resistance in series with the LED.
In fact, with a voltage of 6 volts, leaving the same resistance, the LED is dimmer (less bright) because less electric current passes through it.
In the videos LEDs of different colors but with very similar voltage drop.
I also attach the YouTube links for those who are unable to open the videos directly from the forum.
EASY AND CHEAP FLASHING LED CIRCUITS
Greetings to all naval modelers.
I have noticed that many people want to put lights on their ships but not everyone is familiar with LEDs.
The choice of LEDs instead of light bulbs is now a must for a series of quite obvious advantages that I won't list now.
Already in the topic below, there was a broad and satisfying discussion, full of useful information (at least I considered it useful), arising from the question of a naval modeller.
Starting from the fact that a circuit with LEDs in parallel or with LEDs in series is now known to everyone, I wanted to add something that might be interesting.
A ship modeler may want, in addition to fixed lights, also flashing lights on his model.
The circuits (which I attach) to make an LED flash are very simple, very low cost (maximum 1 or 2 euros each), very low consumption of electricity (and therefore electrical power), very low weight, and very little bulk.
In particular, I had my son do the two-LED scheme when he was little (lower secondary school) to illuminate a little job with toothpicks (the Eiffel Tower).
In Italy we don't just make nativity scenes, ahahahahahah, even if we like them a lot.
There are many methods to achieve the same result and the flashing frequency can be varied.
What I show you is one of many methods.
It definitely works, because I tested it on a breadboard, as you can see in the attached videos.
Two schemes will follow: the first for a single LED and the second for two LEDs.
On the breadboard it takes up a lot of space because I wanted to show the connections clearly but, by soldering the circuit with tin, it will take up very little space (you can also use a board or a printed circuit board for those who are capable of doing so).
All the material is easily available.
For those who are not very familiar with electronics, before soldering, I recommend a test on a breadboard.
I have left out the physical explanation underlying this effect so as not to make the written text too heavy but I am available for anyone interested.
https://model-boats.com/forum/135645
I have noticed that many people want to put lights on their ships but not everyone is familiar with LEDs.
The choice of LEDs instead of light bulbs is now a must for a series of quite obvious advantages that I won't list now.
Already in the topic below, there was a broad and satisfying discussion, full of useful information (at least I considered it useful), arising from the question of a naval modeller.
Starting from the fact that a circuit with LEDs in parallel or with LEDs in series is now known to everyone, I wanted to add something that might be interesting.
A ship modeler may want, in addition to fixed lights, also flashing lights on his model.
The circuits (which I attach) to make an LED flash are very simple, very low cost (maximum 1 or 2 euros each), very low consumption of electricity (and therefore electrical power), very low weight, and very little bulk.
In particular, I had my son do the two-LED scheme when he was little (lower secondary school) to illuminate a little job with toothpicks (the Eiffel Tower).
In Italy we don't just make nativity scenes, ahahahahahah, even if we like them a lot.
There are many methods to achieve the same result and the flashing frequency can be varied.
What I show you is one of many methods.
It definitely works, because I tested it on a breadboard, as you can see in the attached videos.
Two schemes will follow: the first for a single LED and the second for two LEDs.
On the breadboard it takes up a lot of space because I wanted to show the connections clearly but, by soldering the circuit with tin, it will take up very little space (you can also use a board or a printed circuit board for those who are capable of doing so).
All the material is easily available.
For those who are not very familiar with electronics, before soldering, I recommend a test on a breadboard.
I have left out the physical explanation underlying this effect so as not to make the written text too heavy but I am available for anyone interested.
https://model-boats.com/forum/135645
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