HI Dave
Plastic box is fitted ( bolted down ) for the radio gear at the rear of the rear cabin , took me long enough to get this far and batteries wont fit anywhere else low down , So everything will have to stay where it is with the lead in the boot !.. 😛 , I will make a compartment to stop it "floating about " on turns

it goes well enough , so next stage is the re-paint I can always fit the 3542 motor that is sitting here for Real Power that's a 15v 35a motor ( in a plane)

thanks guys for you help

HI Emma
Glad to see you are on the water. I suggest you try putting the batteries to the rear of the back cabin with the radio and ESC towards the front or in the middle compartment with the motor. Brushless motors generate no electrical interference you should not have any problems. Like Shavings this is how my 34" Crash Tender is set up so it could work in your model. Good luck 😀

Guesstimate on speed faster than I can run .

The 10 sub C's weigh about 20 ozs my lipos only 12ozs hence 8ozs difference , my batteries are in the front compartment where the tank was originally. not much weight with the motors and speed controller midships , and nothing heavy at the rear , without the ballast it would have made a good submarine on full power as the bow wave flooded the model . tried 20 ozs in the rear and it planed better but sat too low without power .
A couple of the local boat club were at the lagoon when I got there and they had a go after I put the 4 off 1/2" drives plug sockets I found in the cars toolbox in the back , Since then I have been given a divers belt weight and 1/2 of that weighs the same as the sockets I had used .
next stage is to secure it in the rear in a purpose made housing .
might try 2x 2s 1800 lipos next time just to see how the boat performs with the extra GO!.. 😈

Just thinking about your 1lb of lead, on mins I have all the kit except the water pump behind the motor and it planes with no ballest. Only real weict is the 10 sub C batteries. Probably no help at all but there you go! incidently what did you use to measure the speed?
Roger

Dont need practice 😀

It does look the part and only needs some lead and the repaint .
I have the Steps, mast , and floodlight ( From Stephen and they look rather good ) and a pair of lifebuoys from flea bay ( not so good )
I am not looking for a perfect model more a working boat that I am not going to worry to much about when the car moth and storage gremlins strike .

regards emma

Now dont that look nice? Bit of practice and you will be a pond hooligan like me!
Roger

Actually got around to testing with the new radio and motor

No fears this setup runs nice but needed a pound of weight in the rear to make it plane

now its refit time .

Nice !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If mine goes like that I will be pleased , The bath test shows the motor has enough power , only have a standard esc at the moment I might use a spare channel to reverse the motor windings on a relay , Just finished fitting the windows and replacing the cabin roof , few more bits and its ready for a test down the lagoon ,

https://www.dropbox.com/s/67nmy8iuvwz2hx7/P8040001.AVI
Thought I would show off, video of my boat, 1050kv motor, 12volts and weighs 6.5lb, yours should be even faster. Sorry about quality but had to try not to kill the ducks!
Roger

HI Paul
RAF Crash Tender took a back burner again due to 5 trikers going camping, I put it in the bath tonight with the watt meter connected , on 3s , it was running about 100 watts and the prop wash seems enough to pull it along at a sensible speed as the motor is rated at over 300 watts I might go 4s and try it as it was only pulling 8.9 amps on full power held stationary . weight is about 6 1/2 lbs about 3kg

emma

next stage the lagoon before I do a refubishment on it just to make sure

I'm a bit late in here, I have a horrible feeling that motor will struggle, particularly if its a ply boat (heavy) I don't know the make, but have just read up on turnigy spec, its quite low amps and watts, and with a 1800mah lipo, that' set up would be more suitable to a smaller lightweight boat. I also fly planes, that motor/battery combo would be in a parkflyer/depron type of model, and you will be asking a lot of it in a ply boat. Watch out for overheating, assuming its an outrunner, there is very little airflow in a boat hull, and you get a lot of latent heat build up at the front of the motor. I assume there is no watercooling? so a small prop will be needed, resulting in a lot of revs, and not much go. Sorry to bear bad news, I hope I am wrong 😰
Start small with props and work up, short runs, watch the temperature!
Paul

Thanks Roger

I will drill a hole in the rc equipment box and poke it vertical .(sealed with silicon ) . Then I will range test it , to see how it goes .

regards emma

HI emma Iam using a small servo on my rudder and it works fine. As I understandit he aerial must be above the waterline and preferrably vertical. I fixed mine to the side of the stringer so it protrudes into the side of the cabin
Go Well
Roger

Motor , universal joint and rudder are installed but I need to fit a rudder servo , Motor is running the right way and the water proof box for the gear is installed ...

Just a couple of sillies here

Should I use a standard servo on the rudder or will a micro servo be ok
I have a couple of STD servos and lots of 9gm ones

What do I do regarding the aerial on a 2.4ghz Rx as it is only a inch long on the end of a 2" feeder ?
will it be ok in the water proof box or .........

regards emma

Thanks Roger
The 35-30 motor is almost fitted ( dry run ) and the new rudder installed
the motor lines up well with the propshaft so all is looking good , just ordered a servo mount as Servotape didn't appeal to me , waterproof box for the rc gear is mounted . All I need to get is a snake for the rudder linkage and then I will float it in the bath to check the watts before taking it down the lagoon , before it undergoes its refit and repaint . I have a couple of 3s 1800 lipos spare that I can use with a y lead and get 10 minutes with to check it all out .
regards emma

HI Emma I run a 34 '' fire float on a 1050 out runner with 12 volts and a 50 amp controller. Goes like a rocket and no overheating problems. Just make sure you have clear water ahead!!
Go well
Roger

HI Emma
I had to reduce the controls on my tranny as I was having to use the trim only on the throttle. Flew planes myself and my 34" Crash Tender reaches take off speed in about 2 feet. Problem is the transom is so narrow the tork causes the boat to lean alarmingly and I was always scared it would turn turtle if I was not gentle with the rudder.
As an experienced flyer you will be able to adjust the throttle and rudder settings to keep your model safe. Expect the model to leave the water at speed especially if in a bit of a chop so make sure you have all connections and mounts good and tight. My engine mounts worked loose and I burnt out my motor. 😑
Good luck with your tests. Please post a few photos or a video. 👍
My Avtar shows my 34" crash tender in action so expect yours to be similar. Like model planes light builds produces better results - my model weight 1900 gms with the LiPo , RC Smart 3480 and EZRun-60A-SL 60A Constant. Prop is 35mm sblade brass. 😀

Thanks Dave

Have wattmeter will travel , we have been flying toy aeroplanes for longer than I can remember and have played the lipo game for 6 or 7 years so no problems , even running lipos on electric recumbent trikes . ( 2 x 7s 1p 5ah = 52v )
LIPOs are dangerous unless treated with care , so we do ! 😯

Only thing I really need to know is will it be powerful enough to look right on the water

regards emma

Should be OK Emma. Will depend on your prop. Make sure you don't overload the battery / ESC or motor ratings. I suggest you invest in or borrow a Wattmeter to make sure your set up is OK. Heat is one of the major causes of LiPo failure and once a LiPo has become swollen it is no longer safe to use and is an accident waiting to happen. There is a very good booklet available at http://www.bmfa.org/Info/Downloads/BMFAHandbookGuidance/tabid/221/Default.aspx. This explains some of the pitfalls associated with LiPo usage/misuse and will help keep you and your models and property safe.
Your motor will be high revving and will work best at high revs so don't put too big or coarse pitched prop. I find my Crash Tender works best with a 35mm 3 blade brass prop but it is a different motor.
Good luck and please post some pics or a video 👍 😀