First of all this old plastic model kit was bought for $35 and is being altered to represent the Research vessel of 1956 prior to its refit in Montreal. I am not buying parts, just making them as required such as Samson Posts forward of the Bridge. It also needs a winch on the aft deck.

Yes it is possible with 3d printing to do what you want but the resin that I use can be quite brittle and I don't know whether there is anything more flexible that is less likely to snap. Again 3d printing using filament would work but I don't know whether you would get fine enough detail. I buy brass Caldercraft stanchions from Jotika, they may have something that matches what you want.
best wishes Tim

Spoken like a master modeler, roycv. Well done

I make my stanchions the same way.👍👍👍👍

I am pondering the idea of creating a 3D printed test of a base kick plate, a few stanchions and a single strand running along the top from stanchion to stanchion. Then, use waxed thread or stretch thread tied to each and this will make the remaining cables.

Stanchions can be a real problem. I bought some soft metal cast ones about 1.5cms high and they were too fragile to be anything but on a static model.

I have in a few cases made my own with 2 brass tubes (for thickness) drilled to take the rail holes. I made me a jig with this close fitting double tube and spaced holes for drilling down and making sure the length and spacing was constant.
These were 2.5cm high and had to meld into taller supports. The tube stanchions had a small length of close fitting wire soldered in at the base and this locates them in the deck all at an even height.

I have some etched brass ones a bit smaller but again very fragile or perhaps it is me! I find with varifocal lenses that I can easily knock things just below the level of my vision.

See picture of simple jig with double tube epoxied into a Vee block. The tube has a small bend in it to grip stanchion tube to stop it rotating when being drilled. The drill is 0.7 mm and just about strong enough for the job. The continuous tube is pushed through measured and then cut.

The rail wire I had to buy in a roll. To make it 'hard' take a length with one end in a vice and clamp the other and hold the clamp and stretch it about half an inch. You then have hard brass wire!

The superstructure just before installation. All rails are soldered in place.

Roy

I was at 1:96
If you clip one horizontal layer it could work? I also tried putting brass rod vertical at some points to better support the thin railing. Tom may be able to suggest another vendor. My 3D never worked. The space between rails had filler material. I tried removing it but railing would brake other choice I tried was posts n wire. It’s expensive n a pain Anyway that was my experience enlarge my pic at railing area

Hi Ron,
David J Parkins (Great Little Ships) does cast and PE stanchions at 4.40 GBP per set.
Plus an awful lot of other deck fittings and bits and pieces.
Happy fiddling😁
Cheers, Doug😎

https://davidjparkins.com/product-category/great-little-ships/flower-class-corvette-long-forecastle-detail-sets/page/2/

I checked Tom’s Modellers website but saw no 1/72nd railings. I sent them an email via the contact page. Waiting for an answer.

I remember some years ago there was a set of etched brass fittings for this kit. Stanchions included.
Roy

I tried but they didn’t turn out clean. I got railings from Tom model works instead