Tools
Tools
I make very extensive use of a small 'Stanley' hand plane that I have had for many years for both DIY and model making. The blade is easy to grind and hone to a very sharp edge and I wouldn't be without it!
It's a genuine Stanley British made tool that cost just a couple of pounds back in the day and after a quick look for a direct equivalent available now it would seem that even the cheap badly made foreign copies are likely to cost £30 or more 😮.
It's a genuine Stanley British made tool that cost just a couple of pounds back in the day and after a quick look for a direct equivalent available now it would seem that even the cheap badly made foreign copies are likely to cost £30 or more 😮.
"Time flies like an arrow; fruit flies like a banana"
Liked by AlessandroSPQR and zooma and
Tools
Agree that hand tools are now used far less frequently, but to me the pleasure of using an old hand tool, especially if I have restored it, is unbeatable. I have my father's old hand driven pillar drill - almost unbeatable for very accurate drilling, together with his old wooden plane, which I must admit does sit on the shelf gathering dust! I also have his old taps and dyes, and when you need imperial, they are still perfect.
Tools
Bob, I agree about satisfaction with working with hand tools. The point I was trying to make is that old tools are giving way to new tools. Get more done in less time. (Going to be 82 in two months.) Just like my 3D printers have replaced many hand tools. I think the last time I used a slide rule was in HS. Bost tool that I have is my X-acto knife. Even use it on almost all of my 3D prints.
Lew
Lew
Lew
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
Liked by hermank
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As time goes on, I have less use for wood planes. Back in the "old days" at my HS (Aviation HS) shop, OK. But with advanced power tools getting close to the shape I want, sandpaper finishes the job. I have a small X-acto plane and a full size one about 100 years old. Both sit on the shelf collecting more dust than wood curls.
Lew
Lew
Lew
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
Liked by hermank
Tools
A one handed plane can be a very useful tool to have when building or restoring a model boat.
This latest addition to my toolbox was seen NEW on eBay for just over £12 .....including delivery by Royal Mail!
There are several different suppliers of what looks to be exactly the same tool, but I can only comment on this one suppled by Toolzone Tools that are based here in the UK.
It is a heavy CAST IRON plane that has machined BRASS adjuster knobs and CHROMIUM plated adjustor levers to open the throat spacing and to adjust the angle of the blade.
This is a LOT of specification for the money (how do they do it?), and although the engineering finish is not as good as the more expensive planes that it is (probably) copied from, it works well and should give many years of good solid service.
The blade (iron) can be sharpened and honed in the usual way and the base of the casting could be fine polished to improve its finish - but as it comes it works well enough.
At just over 6" long it is a handy (but quite heavy) little tool that could easily earn its keep in most model boat workshops (or shed in my case!).
Bob
This latest addition to my toolbox was seen NEW on eBay for just over £12 .....including delivery by Royal Mail!
There are several different suppliers of what looks to be exactly the same tool, but I can only comment on this one suppled by Toolzone Tools that are based here in the UK.
It is a heavy CAST IRON plane that has machined BRASS adjuster knobs and CHROMIUM plated adjustor levers to open the throat spacing and to adjust the angle of the blade.
This is a LOT of specification for the money (how do they do it?), and although the engineering finish is not as good as the more expensive planes that it is (probably) copied from, it works well and should give many years of good solid service.
The blade (iron) can be sharpened and honed in the usual way and the base of the casting could be fine polished to improve its finish - but as it comes it works well enough.
At just over 6" long it is a handy (but quite heavy) little tool that could easily earn its keep in most model boat workshops (or shed in my case!).
Bob
Never too old to learn
Liked by Ronald and chugalone100 and
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A new tool in my collection.
Really accurate and easy to use.
Really accurate and easy to use.
Ed
Liked by Ronald and chugalone100 and
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One Handed Planes.
Stanley have been making a couple of slightly different sized smoothing planes for use with a single hand for many years, and these can be very helpful to the model boat builder who often has work to do on the hull when it may not be possible to securely hold it in a vice or Workmate etc making it more difficult to hold and use the larger and more commonly used smoothing planes that are designed for two handed use.
Almost all other smoothing planes are usually bigger and need to be held with BOTH hands and are awkward (but not impossible) to use single handed.
The two sizes of singe handed planes made by Stanley both have low angle blades and suite one of the original carpentry uses of planing across end grain woods, but are also really good for use when building a model boat such as when making the angle on the combined keel and doublers, or when removing any excess ply skinning etc where it can be more efficient than sanding away with files, sand paper and other abrasive tools such as a Surform or PermaGrit tools, although I still use all of these as well!
The smaller size is No 60 1/2 (approximately 1 3'4" wide x 5 3/4" long) and the slightly bigger and wider model is the No 90 1/2. (approximately 2" wide x 6 1/4" long).
Both have "low angle" cutting blades and have a ground recess in each side of the casting to give a better grip on the sides - helpful for one handed use.
Both planes also have an adjustable throat that that can be loosened and adjusted to give more of less clearance in front of the cutting edge of the blade.
Stanly also make another small plane that is about the same size as the No.9 1/2 but it is designed for two handed use (model No 220) which can also be handy, but is not as versatile as either of the two that were design specifically for one handed use (and it does not have an adjustable throat plate).
All three of these handy size little planes are now regarded as "collectable" and can be bought secondhand on eBay etc.
I have pictured my three examples here and include the No 9 1/2 that I was lucky enough to find on eBay this week!
All of these little panes have probably been "closely copied" and are available new from various manufacturers (and cost less than buying any of these used originals), but I do like the old original planes and I enjoy owning and using them and sharpening them etc.
Bob.
Stanley have been making a couple of slightly different sized smoothing planes for use with a single hand for many years, and these can be very helpful to the model boat builder who often has work to do on the hull when it may not be possible to securely hold it in a vice or Workmate etc making it more difficult to hold and use the larger and more commonly used smoothing planes that are designed for two handed use.
Almost all other smoothing planes are usually bigger and need to be held with BOTH hands and are awkward (but not impossible) to use single handed.
The two sizes of singe handed planes made by Stanley both have low angle blades and suite one of the original carpentry uses of planing across end grain woods, but are also really good for use when building a model boat such as when making the angle on the combined keel and doublers, or when removing any excess ply skinning etc where it can be more efficient than sanding away with files, sand paper and other abrasive tools such as a Surform or PermaGrit tools, although I still use all of these as well!
The smaller size is No 60 1/2 (approximately 1 3'4" wide x 5 3/4" long) and the slightly bigger and wider model is the No 90 1/2. (approximately 2" wide x 6 1/4" long).
Both have "low angle" cutting blades and have a ground recess in each side of the casting to give a better grip on the sides - helpful for one handed use.
Both planes also have an adjustable throat that that can be loosened and adjusted to give more of less clearance in front of the cutting edge of the blade.
Stanly also make another small plane that is about the same size as the No.9 1/2 but it is designed for two handed use (model No 220) which can also be handy, but is not as versatile as either of the two that were design specifically for one handed use (and it does not have an adjustable throat plate).
All three of these handy size little planes are now regarded as "collectable" and can be bought secondhand on eBay etc.
I have pictured my three examples here and include the No 9 1/2 that I was lucky enough to find on eBay this week!
All of these little panes have probably been "closely copied" and are available new from various manufacturers (and cost less than buying any of these used originals), but I do like the old original planes and I enjoy owning and using them and sharpening them etc.
Bob.
Never too old to learn
Liked by Ronald and chugalone100 and
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I used to have a very small bubble level that I used for levelling my record deck but the underside of the plastic housing was open and only any good on a good sized level surface and the quality wasn't brilliant either but it did the job.
A few years ago, needing to get the mounting level for a servo mounted under the side deck, so space was tight, I looked around and found these, small, nicely made and stable on all faces. Just the job and I've used them many times since.
Chris
A few years ago, needing to get the mounting level for a servo mounted under the side deck, so space was tight, I looked around and found these, small, nicely made and stable on all faces. Just the job and I've used them many times since.
Chris
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12
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I do have two sets of those files actually Chris.
I keep one set at home and the other (well used) set in my travelling toolkit for use at the club or when I am away.
They were very inexpensive to buy and when they became available again a year or so after I bought my first set, I bought another set as the first set was so handy and had not worn too badly at all.
It's always worth looking in the middle aisle when visiting Lidle or Aldi - you never know what these supermarkets may have as their stocks tend to change from week to week.
I would never say that their quality is the best, but it is certainly not junk and works well enough for the price paid.
Bob.
I keep one set at home and the other (well used) set in my travelling toolkit for use at the club or when I am away.
They were very inexpensive to buy and when they became available again a year or so after I bought my first set, I bought another set as the first set was so handy and had not worn too badly at all.
It's always worth looking in the middle aisle when visiting Lidle or Aldi - you never know what these supermarkets may have as their stocks tend to change from week to week.
I would never say that their quality is the best, but it is certainly not junk and works well enough for the price paid.
Bob.
Never too old to learn
Tools
Hi Lew,
That is a good idea.
I worked in the Development department of a shoe factory when I first left school and was taught to be a pattern cutter.
New designs were drawn onto a last, and then the shapes were cut with a knife from cartridge paper, and these shapes were later used to have steel blade profiles wrapped and welded around them to become the cutting knives to cut leather under a hydraulic cutting press.
We used a basic "clicking knife" handle but always made our own blades from HSS hacksaw blades. The clicking knife handle also had a basic clutch to hold the blade - just like your Xacto handle that you are using.
This is basically the same idea as yours - except you are using the handle to hold the blade as a saw blade to make a very useful tool.
I still have my original clicking knives and the HSS hacksaw blades that were ground down to make the cutting blades are still in daily use 60 years later!
Old (or broken-off) hacksaw blades make very good knife blades when they are re-shaped and sharpened that can genuinely last a lifetime.
Bob.
That is a good idea.
I worked in the Development department of a shoe factory when I first left school and was taught to be a pattern cutter.
New designs were drawn onto a last, and then the shapes were cut with a knife from cartridge paper, and these shapes were later used to have steel blade profiles wrapped and welded around them to become the cutting knives to cut leather under a hydraulic cutting press.
We used a basic "clicking knife" handle but always made our own blades from HSS hacksaw blades. The clicking knife handle also had a basic clutch to hold the blade - just like your Xacto handle that you are using.
This is basically the same idea as yours - except you are using the handle to hold the blade as a saw blade to make a very useful tool.
I still have my original clicking knives and the HSS hacksaw blades that were ground down to make the cutting blades are still in daily use 60 years later!
Old (or broken-off) hacksaw blades make very good knife blades when they are re-shaped and sharpened that can genuinely last a lifetime.
Bob.
Never too old to learn
Liked by chugalone100 and hermank and
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Just five minutes ago I was cutting out a 1/8 inch plywood bulkhead in one of my Springers to add a new item. Having some problems to make the cut in a confined space I was using a hacksaw blade but it was too springy.
I am probably not the first one to do this but I thought I would share this with you all anyway: Modify a hacksaw blade, new or the less used ends of old blades, and cut into shorter length pieces. Modify (grind) one end to fit into the large XActo handle. You can make an assortment of lengths and teeth per inch.
Lew
I am probably not the first one to do this but I thought I would share this with you all anyway: Modify a hacksaw blade, new or the less used ends of old blades, and cut into shorter length pieces. Modify (grind) one end to fit into the large XActo handle. You can make an assortment of lengths and teeth per inch.
Lew
Lew
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
Liked by LIBERTY CAPTAIN and Ronald and
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A basic set of small files is an absolutely essential addition to any model boat builders tool set OMHO.
They don't need to be very expensive as we seldom use them to file steel or any other very hard metal, but this simple set from a well known supermarket have reasonable quality and work well enough.
Found in that middle aisle that is full of things we didn't know we needed before the weekly shop, this set came with a useful handle that can be fitted onto the files shanks which can be handy now and again.
Bob.
They don't need to be very expensive as we seldom use them to file steel or any other very hard metal, but this simple set from a well known supermarket have reasonable quality and work well enough.
Found in that middle aisle that is full of things we didn't know we needed before the weekly shop, this set came with a useful handle that can be fitted onto the files shanks which can be handy now and again.
Bob.
Never too old to learn
Tools
I used a David razor blade plane in my school days when I was shaping the aerofoil section of my control line model aircraft , and that would be over 65 years ago!
This plane took the single edge razor blades that were commonly available then, and I often held the blade in my hand to cut balsa wood as it cut better than the Xacto knives !
The David razor blade plane that I have now is probably a lot newer (maybe only 40 years old?), but I think the original one had a metal wing nut rather than the black plastic moulded one shown here.
I also had a small Xacto moulded plastic tool case that had a number 1 (small) , number 2 (medium) and number 5 (large) sized handles in it with a selection of different blades and a razor saw blade to fit the number 5 handle.
There is every possibility that the Xacto moulded "plastic" tool case was actually moulded in Bakalite as it was a bit fragile around the points where the metal hinges fitted........and sadly it has failed to survive!
The number 5 Xacto saw handle had a moulded handle on it and the razor saw blade that it took was very handy for cutting some of the hardwood engine bearers - but was not a patch on the Tamiya razor saws that I use these days.
In the Xacto moulded tool case was also this red cast iron miniature smoothing plane that came in handy when shaping leading edges although I always preferred to final shape these with sandpaper wrapped around a suitably size hardwood block.
This is my original Xacto miniature smoothing plane and so it is probably over 65 years old!
During my time at home I wanted to strip and clean these olde tools but until the wound on my thumb has mended a bit I am reluctant to risk splashing any oils etc into it, but if I can dig-out my pack of black plastic "mechanics" gloves, I may do it in-between time when waiting for the glue to dry as I continue t work on the Sprite Plus.
Xacto tools have been copied by several different manufacturers sine the 1950's, but I have never seen the Xacto miniature plane copied by anyone.
Bob.
This plane took the single edge razor blades that were commonly available then, and I often held the blade in my hand to cut balsa wood as it cut better than the Xacto knives !
The David razor blade plane that I have now is probably a lot newer (maybe only 40 years old?), but I think the original one had a metal wing nut rather than the black plastic moulded one shown here.
I also had a small Xacto moulded plastic tool case that had a number 1 (small) , number 2 (medium) and number 5 (large) sized handles in it with a selection of different blades and a razor saw blade to fit the number 5 handle.
There is every possibility that the Xacto moulded "plastic" tool case was actually moulded in Bakalite as it was a bit fragile around the points where the metal hinges fitted........and sadly it has failed to survive!
The number 5 Xacto saw handle had a moulded handle on it and the razor saw blade that it took was very handy for cutting some of the hardwood engine bearers - but was not a patch on the Tamiya razor saws that I use these days.
In the Xacto moulded tool case was also this red cast iron miniature smoothing plane that came in handy when shaping leading edges although I always preferred to final shape these with sandpaper wrapped around a suitably size hardwood block.
This is my original Xacto miniature smoothing plane and so it is probably over 65 years old!
During my time at home I wanted to strip and clean these olde tools but until the wound on my thumb has mended a bit I am reluctant to risk splashing any oils etc into it, but if I can dig-out my pack of black plastic "mechanics" gloves, I may do it in-between time when waiting for the glue to dry as I continue t work on the Sprite Plus.
Xacto tools have been copied by several different manufacturers sine the 1950's, but I have never seen the Xacto miniature plane copied by anyone.
Bob.
Never too old to learn
Liked by LIBERTY CAPTAIN and Ronald and
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I also have the Veritas miniature plane, very useful for shaving away paper thin layers of wood, and a David razor plane which I have had for 40 years or more but has never been used on anything harder than balsa.
Dave in West Oxfordshire
Liked by LIBERTY CAPTAIN and hermank and
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Having mentioned the drill chuck and screw driver set earlier I had a use for it today! Needed to drill a very small hole through the end of a paint brush I was using as part of the throttle assembly - it was ideal to start the hole which I then completed using my small battery drill and the chuck.
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12
Tools
I have used planes on my builds but with mixed results. I have a Veritas Miniature Plane which I have successfully used on the stringers before finishing off with my PermaGrit blocks. I also have a set of three of the Veritas Miniature chisels which as well as looking very cute 😊 have proven to be very useful on occasions.
For the keel and doublers a David plane, which uses a razor blade, had been recommended on other forums but I think my usual keel/doubler combination of 18mm of hard ply proves too much for it and has been gathering dust, not sawdust unfortunately!
I do have a fairly small Stanley block plane amongst my DIY tools in the garage but I think that is too big really. Also I always seem to have problems setting up the blades in planes.
When I build my Sprite I shall give my Proxxon belt sander a go. Apart from small drills and grinders I'm usually nervous of using power tools on my builds but having used the belt sander on the hull of my Fisherman found it to be very controllable so it should be alright. I've also got one of those narrow belt sanders I can use for profiling the frames etc.
For the keel and doublers a David plane, which uses a razor blade, had been recommended on other forums but I think my usual keel/doubler combination of 18mm of hard ply proves too much for it and has been gathering dust, not sawdust unfortunately!
I do have a fairly small Stanley block plane amongst my DIY tools in the garage but I think that is too big really. Also I always seem to have problems setting up the blades in planes.
When I build my Sprite I shall give my Proxxon belt sander a go. Apart from small drills and grinders I'm usually nervous of using power tools on my builds but having used the belt sander on the hull of my Fisherman found it to be very controllable so it should be alright. I've also got one of those narrow belt sanders I can use for profiling the frames etc.
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12
Tools
Stanley 60 1/2 Block Plane.
I have been using an olde Stanley Model 60 1/2 block plane for many years and I recently restored the one that I am using now .
Some years ago I was given a pair of small planes in a fitted wooden box as a Christmas present from my eldest son. These were branded "Faithfull" and included one that is the same size as the Stanley Model 60 1/2, and one that is the same length but has a wider body and blade.
The small Model 60 1/2 block planes are really helpful, especially when profiling the keel and the attached keel doublers.(I used a 60 1/2 last night when profiling the keel and doublers of the Sprite Plus prototype that am currently working on
I have found them to be much easier to use and more effective than sanding or filing away the surplus wood to contour the keel ready to accept the bottom skins.
It also does a good job when profiling the stringers ready to accept the sides skins as well as being a useful alternative to a spokeshave when slicing away any excessive plywood skins after fitting.
The wider model (I don't know if this has a Stanley reference number, but it might be a copy of the Stanley 9 1/2 ?) is also very handy, but I have only used the two narrower ones for profiling the keel and stringers.
Bob.
I have been using an olde Stanley Model 60 1/2 block plane for many years and I recently restored the one that I am using now .
Some years ago I was given a pair of small planes in a fitted wooden box as a Christmas present from my eldest son. These were branded "Faithfull" and included one that is the same size as the Stanley Model 60 1/2, and one that is the same length but has a wider body and blade.
The small Model 60 1/2 block planes are really helpful, especially when profiling the keel and the attached keel doublers.(I used a 60 1/2 last night when profiling the keel and doublers of the Sprite Plus prototype that am currently working on
I have found them to be much easier to use and more effective than sanding or filing away the surplus wood to contour the keel ready to accept the bottom skins.
It also does a good job when profiling the stringers ready to accept the sides skins as well as being a useful alternative to a spokeshave when slicing away any excessive plywood skins after fitting.
The wider model (I don't know if this has a Stanley reference number, but it might be a copy of the Stanley 9 1/2 ?) is also very handy, but I have only used the two narrower ones for profiling the keel and stringers.
Bob.
Never too old to learn
Tools
Hi Bob
I have mounted a few of my power tools on heavy wooden bases with a block on the bottoms. I clamp these in the workmate and this gives me a quick change option
Ed
I have mounted a few of my power tools on heavy wooden bases with a block on the bottoms. I clamp these in the workmate and this gives me a quick change option
Ed
Ed
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I wore through the rubber feet on my olde Workmate EdW, but I have been able to find some new replacement moulded parts on eBay that just push-on, so it should have many more years of useful life in it.
The Black and Decker Workmate has made life a whole lot easier for so many of us since it first came out, and works really well with model boats too.
Bob.
The Black and Decker Workmate has made life a whole lot easier for so many of us since it first came out, and works really well with model boats too.
Bob.
Never too old to learn
Liked by RNinMunich and Steves-s
Tools
Hi Lew,
Your portable hobby work station is the "Swiss Army Knife" of small workshops.
I have never seen anything like it before, it must come in really handy when you are away from home .
Thanks for sharing it here.👍
Bob.
Your portable hobby work station is the "Swiss Army Knife" of small workshops.
I have never seen anything like it before, it must come in really handy when you are away from home .
Thanks for sharing it here.👍
Bob.
Never too old to learn
Liked by RNinMunich and hermank and
Tools
Here (photos, info) is that amazing portable hobby work station I had mentioned earlier. It was sold by Lowe's (a large home improvement chain here in North America) under their brand "Kobalt". It was not sold very long. Bought this about 16 years ago.
Lew
Lew
Lew
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
Liked by PhilH and DWBrinkman and
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Record BS9 Bandsaw. (Hybrid).
As far as I know, the BS9 is the smallest model bandsaw that Record have ever made.
Although no longer available, it is a really well made little band saw that has the same build quality as it bigger BS250 brother - except that it came with a cheap pressed steel table.
The lightweight pressed steel table made this a very portable little machine that was easy to lift and move around or hide away under the work bench when it was not in use.
I had previously owned a slightly bigger bandsaw from a different manufacturer that had a heavy duty cast iron table fitted that was about the same size as the pressed steel one fitted to my Record BS9.
My suspicion was that both machines were made in China, and as is so often the case, they shared certain dimensions - including the size of the table
I worked out that the heavy duty cast iron table on my other machine could be adapted to fit this machine to upgrade it, so I made the changes and fitted the cast iron table to the BS9.
Although this made the machine much heavier (and so not as easy to lift and move around) it added to its stability and allowed the fitment of better quality guides to the table when needed.
The other machine was then retro-fitted with the lightweight pressed steel table from this BS9 and was passed-on to someone that could make use of a lighter weight machine.
My BS9 bandsaw is a true hybrid that I have enjoyed using and the smaller size bandsaw blades that are 1578mm long ( 62 1/8") are still freely available from a number of good saw blade suppliers and custom blade makers.
One of the pictures shows the machine with it's heavy duty table inclined to 45 degrees and fitted with a simple jig to cut triangular section hardwood strips.
Both pictures show the machine with the non-standard heavy duty cast iron table fitted and a high quality work guide. The grooves also allow the more secure and accurate retention of other fitments.
This has been a perfect machine for cutting bulkheads and any other parts that I have needed when either building a new model from plans or when scratch building or restoring older models that need new parts making.
It is also remarkably good at producing smaller sizes of strip that can be handy when custom sizes are needed ...or when I run-out and find that I can make the size I need without having to wait or order new stock.
The machine can run with narrow 1/4" blades (ideal for cutting tight curves), 3/8" blades (best suited for cutting most model boat components from plywood or hardwood), and 1/2" wide blades (best for ripping and cross cutting).
The number of teeth per inch (TPI) available ranges from 4TPI to 24 TPI to suite every application (and more) than I have ever needed .
Bob.
As far as I know, the BS9 is the smallest model bandsaw that Record have ever made.
Although no longer available, it is a really well made little band saw that has the same build quality as it bigger BS250 brother - except that it came with a cheap pressed steel table.
The lightweight pressed steel table made this a very portable little machine that was easy to lift and move around or hide away under the work bench when it was not in use.
I had previously owned a slightly bigger bandsaw from a different manufacturer that had a heavy duty cast iron table fitted that was about the same size as the pressed steel one fitted to my Record BS9.
My suspicion was that both machines were made in China, and as is so often the case, they shared certain dimensions - including the size of the table
I worked out that the heavy duty cast iron table on my other machine could be adapted to fit this machine to upgrade it, so I made the changes and fitted the cast iron table to the BS9.
Although this made the machine much heavier (and so not as easy to lift and move around) it added to its stability and allowed the fitment of better quality guides to the table when needed.
The other machine was then retro-fitted with the lightweight pressed steel table from this BS9 and was passed-on to someone that could make use of a lighter weight machine.
My BS9 bandsaw is a true hybrid that I have enjoyed using and the smaller size bandsaw blades that are 1578mm long ( 62 1/8") are still freely available from a number of good saw blade suppliers and custom blade makers.
One of the pictures shows the machine with it's heavy duty table inclined to 45 degrees and fitted with a simple jig to cut triangular section hardwood strips.
Both pictures show the machine with the non-standard heavy duty cast iron table fitted and a high quality work guide. The grooves also allow the more secure and accurate retention of other fitments.
This has been a perfect machine for cutting bulkheads and any other parts that I have needed when either building a new model from plans or when scratch building or restoring older models that need new parts making.
It is also remarkably good at producing smaller sizes of strip that can be handy when custom sizes are needed ...or when I run-out and find that I can make the size I need without having to wait or order new stock.
The machine can run with narrow 1/4" blades (ideal for cutting tight curves), 3/8" blades (best suited for cutting most model boat components from plywood or hardwood), and 1/2" wide blades (best for ripping and cross cutting).
The number of teeth per inch (TPI) available ranges from 4TPI to 24 TPI to suite every application (and more) than I have ever needed .
Bob.
Never too old to learn
Liked by Ronald and DWBrinkman and
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I heading over to a WWII event today. I have a rather unusual portable setup with clamping jaws, tool storage, etc. made by Lowe's some years ago. Great for "in the field repairs". Will get a photo or two posted later.
Lew
Lew
Lew
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
Liked by hermank
Tools
Hi Chris,
With a quick visit to my workshop(shed) I found my little table-top work bench safely stored on a shelf under the worktop.
It is a very similar idea to yours, but slightly different and it is made by Wolfcraft.
Sadly I could not use it to grip the keel on the Sprite Plus as that boat does not have a protruding keel so I used a small vice in between the bulkheads to support it until the bottom skins are fitted.
Bob.
With a quick visit to my workshop(shed) I found my little table-top work bench safely stored on a shelf under the worktop.
It is a very similar idea to yours, but slightly different and it is made by Wolfcraft.
Sadly I could not use it to grip the keel on the Sprite Plus as that boat does not have a protruding keel so I used a small vice in between the bulkheads to support it until the bottom skins are fitted.
Bob.
Never too old to learn
Tools
Hi Chris,
I also have one of those table-top mounted "workmate" type work benches, it looks like yours but I think it is from a different maker?
Having access to a bench when I am in my workshop (shed) at home , I have hardly ever used mine but I will dig it out and picture it as it may provide an alternative source of supply for anyone else that would like to find one.
Maybe I should take mine with me when I am away from home so I could do some work on it.......but the I would need to take quite a few tools with me too, so maybe that would not work for me...sadly......
Bob.
I also have one of those table-top mounted "workmate" type work benches, it looks like yours but I think it is from a different maker?
Having access to a bench when I am in my workshop (shed) at home , I have hardly ever used mine but I will dig it out and picture it as it may provide an alternative source of supply for anyone else that would like to find one.
Maybe I should take mine with me when I am away from home so I could do some work on it.......but the I would need to take quite a few tools with me too, so maybe that would not work for me...sadly......
Bob.
Never too old to learn
Tools
When I first started building models a few years ago I was working on the house and so had room and it was OK to have my B&D Workmate in the house which was so useful for my builds.
Once the house was finished it and most of my tools were dispatched to the shed and garage. I managed but struggled sometimes without something to clamp materials for cutting etc. I use the small bedroom as a workroom so no space for the Workmate.
When I recently started the Fisherman build the problem arose again and so I looked around for something suitable and bought a very nice solid wood vise, Swedish I think. But too nice and too bulky for convenient use. A chap on another forum said he'd got a Dremel vise which looked more like it.
Sadly it's no longer made unfortunately but I managed to find one on Ebay which was virtually as new so snapped it up. It's perfect for what I wanted and just sits on the worktop when needed, unlike the other one which was clamped. Lightweight and portable, I just leave it in another room when not being used.
Once the house was finished it and most of my tools were dispatched to the shed and garage. I managed but struggled sometimes without something to clamp materials for cutting etc. I use the small bedroom as a workroom so no space for the Workmate.
When I recently started the Fisherman build the problem arose again and so I looked around for something suitable and bought a very nice solid wood vise, Swedish I think. But too nice and too bulky for convenient use. A chap on another forum said he'd got a Dremel vise which looked more like it.
Sadly it's no longer made unfortunately but I managed to find one on Ebay which was virtually as new so snapped it up. It's perfect for what I wanted and just sits on the worktop when needed, unlike the other one which was clamped. Lightweight and portable, I just leave it in another room when not being used.
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12
Tools
Have you ever noticed that when you're looking for something, and you search all of the obvious places without success...and then when you finally find it, lo and behold.... it's in the very last place you looked? 😠
Well....it occurred to me that I should remember to look in the very last place first of all......and I might be more successful 🤔.
Regrettably, I discovered that doesn't work either ☹️.
Well....it occurred to me that I should remember to look in the very last place first of all......and I might be more successful 🤔.
Regrettably, I discovered that doesn't work either ☹️.
"Time flies like an arrow; fruit flies like a banana"
Tools
Hi Chris.
The DeWalt kit you've bought looks really versatile, and only about a tenner more than I paid for mine 😀.
I think I would have chosen that model when I was looking for such a thing.
Rob.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/DEWALT-DWAMRASETFT-Flex-Attachment/dp/B08K9C5MCD?th=1
The DeWalt kit you've bought looks really versatile, and only about a tenner more than I paid for mine 😀.
I think I would have chosen that model when I was looking for such a thing.
Rob.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/DEWALT-DWAMRASETFT-Flex-Attachment/dp/B08K9C5MCD?th=1
"Time flies like an arrow; fruit flies like a banana"
Tools
Doh! Just had another look and found the chisels at the back of a drawer. Serves me right for having a tidy up a few months ago!
Came across the screwdriver set I mentioned which will work with the chuck. Could be useful as it has a ratchet but it is quite long and a lot of play due to the various parts. Another option anyway.
Came across the screwdriver set I mentioned which will work with the chuck. Could be useful as it has a ratchet but it is quite long and a lot of play due to the various parts. Another option anyway.
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12
Tools
Tell me about it Ed. I was looking for my miniature set of Veritas chisels recently that I've had on the end of the work area for ages and can I find them? And yesterday I was looking for my bag of off-cuts of lightweight cloth - had to open a new pack just for a small piece. 😠
Chris
Chris
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12
Liked by hermank
Tools
I must have at least 100 bits with these 1/4" hex shaft tools. Sockets, star, square, Allen hex, screw driver, and more in various sizes. Probably a dozen handles and powered drives and extensions. Definitely an overkill, but does anyone have too many tools?
Lew
Lew
Lew
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
Tools
Don't worry I'm not going to post about all my tools! The aim of this thread was prompted by RobBob's right-angle drill attachment and is really more about the less common tools and those being intended for other purposes but have a use in model boat building.
In the latter category are my palette knives. I'd popped into my local Hobbies store (unfortunately many have/are closing) to buy some more brushes and as they were closing had a sale on. Wandering around I came across some paint palette knives and thought they'd be useful for surface filling and small areas as they are small and flexible, so I bought three of what I thought would be the most useful. Tried them on my Faun roof and indeed they are, being ideal for the job.
Knives and sets are readily available from other sources.
Chris
In the latter category are my palette knives. I'd popped into my local Hobbies store (unfortunately many have/are closing) to buy some more brushes and as they were closing had a sale on. Wandering around I came across some paint palette knives and thought they'd be useful for surface filling and small areas as they are small and flexible, so I bought three of what I thought would be the most useful. Tried them on my Faun roof and indeed they are, being ideal for the job.
Knives and sets are readily available from other sources.
Chris
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12
Tools
Like I said Lew, I wish I'd bought one a long time as well! You mentioning compatibility, reminds me I've got a screwdriver with various bits somewhere. I rarely use it as I prefer standalone screwdrivers but it will take the chuck and that could be useful in tight spaces. I must dig it out.
Chris
Chris
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12
Liked by hermank
Tools
Chris, I recently bought a set of 3 keyless chucks (large, medium, small) like you have pictured. I had to drill some holes deep inside a model boat hull and did not have any drill bits long enough to get down there. I needed to drill them by hand to make sure I would not go thru the hull. Was able to get there with my hex extensions. The hex shafts are compatible with many tools, both hand and powered. Wish I had bought them a long time ago.😎
Lew
Lew
Lew
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
Florida, USA
Home page: https://www.RCFlorida.org/lmb
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