HI Barry
Glad to help.
You can glue wood to brass with epoxy. From your description it sounds like the wood rudders are grooved and attached to the brass rod with the metal plates wrapped round the brass and attached either side of the rudder. Probably a detail to copy the original full size vessel. The full size would have used rivets to secure the metal plate whereas you will be using glue.
If this is to be a sailing vessel this might prove to be a bit of a weak point as the rudder will be quite exposed in the water. if its just for display purpose glue will be quite sufficient.
I see you are from N Yorks area and if you are intending to sail this model it may be helpful to join a local model boat club so you get some local hands on advice.
I note that you are new to the hobby and am happy to give you all the support and help you need so I am sending you a pm with my phone and e-mail address so that I can find out a bit more about your skillset before suggesting a solution you will be able to achieve.
Dave

Thank you dave.
I understand about the brass sleeve.
I can't work out how to fit wooden rudders to brass tube. Do I glue wood to brass, there are tiny pieces of metal to go around the tube onto the wood rudders but not a clue how they fix, or are they just for show. I'm a novice with a expert kit. I'm enjoying making it but stuck on this problem.
Barry

Thank you all very much.
The rudders are wood, the shaft is brass.
Are you saying epoxy the rudders to the shafts
I am 72 years old, and starting with boats a bit late.
It seems to be a nice hobby.
Barry

HI Barry & Mark
Yes lack of knowledge of a particular model can make advice difficult.
I have fitted kort nozzels to a couple of my tugs and I would advise using a template to ensure you get the nozzles absolutely central with the prop shaft. The instructions with my Al Khubar suggested using a plasticard disk cut to the inner diameter of the nozzle with a hole drilled in the centre to take the prop shaft (both need to be a tight fit). You can then attach the disc to the prop shaft and fix with nuts either side of the disc and align the propshaft to the nozzle. Try and make sure you get everything nice and square as the props should be a close fit, mine had a 1-2mm clearance all round. You may find that the hole in the hull needs to be widened to get the required result, mine certainly did, but you can use plastic padding to make good once finished. if I was doing another I think I would also test fit the motor to make sure of a nice straight drive chain.
My Eldergarth had steerable nozzles so alignment is more critical than for a fixed nozzle with rudder. Hopefully your plan shows the position of the prop relative to the rear of the nozzle as some props have an extension on the boss that might foul the rudder, I know from experience with my Al Khubar so I suggest you try your prop in position before you finally fix.
Hope this will help Barry fit the Korts succesfully.
Dave

HI Barry

Welcolm to the forum.

Good info from Dave but he not sure about Rotterdam. it has Kort Nozzels around the props with a stub at the bottom to mount the bottom of the rudder shaft, this then goes into the hull with the sleeve and is topped with the tiller arms.

Have looked at my build book and your right it doesnot show rudder instalation.

Mount the nozzels first, make sure the shafts are centralized, so the props wont catch or rub, once the epoxy is dry go for the rudder fit, careful drilling and alignment are Important.

Hope this helps

Mark

HI barry
Most rudders consist of a rudder attached to a rod, the rod fits inside a brass or similar sleeve which fits into a suitably sized drilled hole in the stern so that the rudder is central to the prop when viewed from the rear.
The brass sleeve is glued to the hull once aligned and an arm attached at the top of the rudder rod to allow for a connection to the rudder servo. it's Important that the sleeve inside the boat is above the waterline otherwise water will seep into the hull. You can grease the sleeve and rod to help prevent this. I usually apply some plastic padding around the sleeve and hull to make a neat fit. The sleeve inside the boat should be supported with a cross beam to avoid being dislodged by the occasional knock to the rudder.
I am not familiar with your particular model but from my experience with other Billing wood models you may need to make a space in the rear section to fit the arm. With a plastic hull I would just use balsa to build up the stern above the rudder position and then drill the hole for the sleeve.
Hope this helps, please ask if you are still unsure.
Good luck
dave