We should wear a mask, but we don't very often.

Hmm, not a bad idea.....until I sneeze!

As you sand the hull, save the wood dust. Mix to paste with resin W glue. ideal for filling cracks, even when stain & varnish is the finish.

Hey Mates,
Based on your replies, it looks like I need to raid my auto-body supply cabinet. One of my other passions is restoring classic cars from the ground up. I'm pretty well versed in body fillers, not so much fiberglass techniques, as I prefer to MIG weld steel panels.
So, I'll use my 3M glazing polyurethane resin. it's a for very thin filling applications and is easily sanded and accept all types of primers and sealers. As to the fiberglass, I'm going to look at some of the heated treated thin film wraps body guys use to color panels in lieu of painting them. I'll keep you posted when I get to that part of the project.
Thanks for your input, all great replies. Happy Trails......

I should have added that the North American equivalent to isopon is Bondo. They also make a wood filler, but I have no experience with that.

Roy

You should also consider Minwax High Performance Wood Filler. This is also a 2 part filler like the car body filler, but it's softer and therefore a little easier to work.

Roy

Hey Redrider,

Welcome to the mad world of modelling where every day brings a new question. On the issue of fillers I and many others tend to use a car body filler generally marketed as isopon P38. To waterproof and strengthen the hull we tend to use fibre glassing techniques with fine cloths Impregnated with a resin. Horrible job to complete and lots of hard work with wet and dry to "finish" but well worth it. Good luck with the build.

Cheers Shaun