Table Saw

Started by Fred
13 replies 14 likes 0 followers Last activity: 1 hour ago
#14 4
@RodC I think that, like anything else, it's a matter of not letting your guard down and using good techniques. I do agree that any careless, untrained, individual can buy a table saw or circular saw and get hurt, but I do feel that it is incumbent upon each of us to use good sense when using these tools. I'm always troubled when I see good, useful, items limited or eliminated because some people who should have known better abused them.

I know that, even after more than 3 decades of experience, I treat my table saw with great care. Frankly, I'm a little scared of it - and I consider that healthy. I'm always cognizant of my use of push-sticks, my body position, and simply not doing risky things.

By the way, speaking of table-saw safety, and I know it's a long time before it'll trickle down to an amateur level, but a new, and much more attractive, alternative to SawStop has recently been shown in the States. It senses when fingers are a certain distance from the blade - a distance programmable into the saw - and quickly retracts the blade into the saw. It doesn't wait for contact with the blade, does not damage the blade or require an expensive cartridge, and can be reset in seconds. Unfortunately, for now, it's being demo-d on a saw with electronic features such as power tilt and blade height that pretty much nobody wants to pay for.
Liked by RossM
#12 13
@RodC
THE HUNT FOR RED OCTOBER
First contact from the USS DALLAS to the RED OCTOBER by Captain Bart Mancuso of the Dallas
Force nothing, waste nothing, leave nothing undone
Liked by Fishercat
#11 15
@Fred Fred, where is this excerpted from?? I can send/receive Morse 12wpm on a good day.....Rod, VA3ROD
VA3ROD
#10 15
@Ronald , i concur. I always felt that a tablesaw or circular saw were simply accidents waiting to happen. Felt quite safe with my 3-wheel bandsaw (the 3 wheels give you a deep throat). When the blade breaks (and sooner rather than later, that will happen)the blade instantly stops moving, minimizing the chance of the user getting cut. Bandsaw is perfect for that construction method where you cut both the inner hull & the outer side of the hull and then sandwich your boards. No bulkheads/ribs required, just a good marine wood glue and a wood rasp & sandpaper to smooth the outside of the hull sandwich.
A bandsaw never kicks back like a tablesaw or circularsaw will do.
A bandsaw produces a smoother cut edge than a benchtop jigsaw will do.
VA3ROD
Liked by Rookysailor and zooma
#9 30
redpiperbob, Just my luck,
Fred
That's all right, Mr Ryan. My Morse is so rusty, I could be sending him dimensions on Playmate of the Month.
#8 30
PeterN , thank you for your comment I do have a jig saw, which I use with cutting out the ribs, it's just that I need one to cut hard wood and sheet.
Fred
That's all right, Mr Ryan. My Morse is so rusty, I could be sending him dimensions on Playmate of the Month.
Liked by PeterN
#7 30
Fishercat, I will have a look for the Proxxon on that site, as you say I just may pick up one at the right price.
Fred
That's all right, Mr Ryan. My Morse is so rusty, I could be sending him dimensions on Playmate of the Month.
Liked by Fishercat
#6 30
Ronald
Thank you for your comments, I found on my old bandsaw I could not cut the big sheets, I have a circler saw - scroll saw and jig saw,
I just need a saw that I can do what the above can do but in one place.
Fred
That's all right, Mr Ryan. My Morse is so rusty, I could be sending him dimensions on Playmate of the Month.
#5 44
@Fred

Fred, I am a retired wood shop teacher. From my experience a bandsaw is one of the safest shop power tools to own and use in the shop.

The reason being is because the bandsaw will not spit out a projectile as a tablesaw is capable of doing if not used carefully. Even the most experienced woodworkers have experienced a kickback. I had a kickback rupture the right testicle.

The bandsaw will allow the operator to remove their hands from the workpiece with no fear of it flying into them. Nor the blade catching or pinching at the kerf which is what happened to me and is the main factor of a kickback.

A quality bandsaw is my recommendation.
Liked by zooma and RodC and
#4 45
If all you do is cut straight lines, and you don't mind a fairly wide kerf, then any used contractor's saw would do, and be reasonably light and portable. A cabinetmaker's saw is out of the question.

Another option, if you're doing only small items, with a much thinner kerf is the Proxxon table saw - there are 2 varieties, a simple one called the KS115 that costs less than that new, and a larger, more flexible, one that MIGHT be available at that price used if you get lucky. I did get one of the fancy ones for a bit more than 200, but I do think I got lucky.

There are various mini saws for hobby available on Amazon for under 200.

Perhaps a table saw and a jigsaw for curves? I DO love the straightness and clean cuts of tablesaw work, but I also need to cut curves - a jigsaw is slow, but used ones are also often available for well under 200 - I got one for $55 that isn't fancy but gets the job done.
Liked by Fred
#3 52
@Fred Hi there Fred, I am still using the old table jig saw, looks a bit like this one. Must be 30+ years ols by now
Liked by Fred and chugalone100 and
#2 52
pity you are not closer I have a table saw for sale Cheap
Bob
PS I am in Inverness
Liked by Fred
#1 52

Table Saw

Hi One & All,
My band saw has finally taken its final flight to the scrap yard, so Im on the hunt for a new one.
Im leaning towards a table saw instead of a bandsaw. Im looking at a budget of ?200. What do you think would be the best choice of table saw for me?
Thanks,
Fred
That's all right, Mr Ryan. My Morse is so rusty, I could be sending him dimensions on Playmate of the Month.

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