Advice please on replacement brushless.

Started by lesfac
6 replies 0 likes 0 followers Last activity: 11 years ago
#7

Advice please on replacement brushless.

HI lesfac
There are fittings for this size drive shaft freely available from most model suppliers.
Your ESC is designed to run faster in one direction as per the specs so you need to adjust your Tx to give the max speed on your chosen stick setting , then adjust the motor leads to give correct rotation for the prop.
The motor cut out may be due to thermal rather than battery problem. This ESC does need water cooling to operate at the specified voltage and current. ideally you should measure the current draw with the prop in the water, it will be higher than when the boat is moving but will give a good indication of the worst (most current) draw. if your prop is too big or too coarse a pitch the motor could be drawing too much current and exceeding the wattage (volts x amps) rating of the motor and/or the ESC. Suitable meters are available cheaply from Giant Cod.
Others appear to have struggled with the ESC settings and lack of info. There is a black box tool for setting the parameters which may help.
How long were you running the boat on the water before it cut out? I usually time my runs and make sure I am near the shore when the usual run time is expiring.
Looks like you are nearly there and I'm sure you are enjoying the performance with the brushless setup.
Dave
Live long and prosper

Dave
#6

Advice please on replacement brushless.

I was thinking a new motor was going to be about £80 but I looked on Giant Shark and bought a GT4020 out runner for less than £14. I tried it out today and it seems excellent value for money. it does come with an 8 mm shaft though which might cause coupling problems for some as I haven't seen any 8mm couplings anywhere. (I made an adapter). I have found that the speed controller runs it noticeably faster one way than the other. At first the better motor speed was reverse for the boat. I swopped 2 wires on the motor then the better motor speed is forward for the boat but the transmitter joystick is reversed. I will see if the forward/reverse setting on the speed controller addresses this.
My final issue is the cut off voltage of the esc. it cut out in the middle of the lake. I did fit the warning beeper but with my hearing I have no chance. I haven't seen a parameter to set on the esc. Obviously it is better to go to low power before stopping
#5

Advice please on replacement brushless.

HI lesfac
The drive frequency relates to the internal switching frequency in the ESC. I am aware that brushed motor ESCs used to have this facility but have not seen it on any of my brushless controllers. I would go with the default setting and perhaps try the other once the system is working. Perhaps the web will provide some instructions to give guidance? A faster frequency will give more control bits but the audible sound might be annoying. With a fast noisy boat neither would possibly be a problem.
Dave
Live long and prosper

Dave
#4

Advice please on replacement brushless.

Thankyou both for your quick replies
It looks like another motor then. 😟
The ESC settings on the Aquastar 160 amp esc are
Default Settings:
- Battery Type > Auto Detect
- Operation Mode > Forward with pause then Reverse
- Acceleration > Medium
- Forward Limit > 100%
- Reverse Limit > 50%
- Drive Frequency > 16KHz
- Rotation Reverse > Normal

What is the drive frequency? I have the choice of 16KHz or 8 KHz
Its amazing how difficult it seems to be to get useful information. There were no instructions at all with the ESC or the programming box. Just a set of specs on each.
#3

Advice please on replacement brushless.

HI Lesfac
I suspect your motor has developed an internal short on one of the windings, or possibly damaged a connection to one of the three phases. I had a similar problem with one of my brushless when a mounting screw came loose and stalled the motor. The motor would still run but was very rough sounding and never developed full revs when unloaded. The current was also very high and the motor overheated and if run for any length of time started to smoke.
There should be very high resistance between all three connectors and the central rotor shaft, you can check this with a multimeter set on the Megohm range with a very high reading if all is ok.
You could also check the resistance between each winding and all should give a reading within a few ohms of each other. Not sure of the exact value, your specs say 0.0285ohms and you meter may not be able to record such a low value but a very low resistance may indicate internal shorts between the coil wires.
Your ESC will work with any brushless motor up to its rated value. Using an ESC with a power rating less than the motor will result in the ultimate failure of the ESC, your set up is fine. Your new ESC is more powerful than the previous one so will give much more power.
The fact that you experience rougher running in one direction indicates a fault with the coils. Could be the ESC is preprogrammed to run at 50% and the damaged coils are making the condition worse at the slower speed, swapping any of the three wires around may confirm this.
I am assuming you have not altered the timing on the ESC and the cut off voltage is less than the battery min voltage.
I think you will need to replace the motor, if it is damaged and you launch the smoke next time may not be from the motor alone.
Hope this helps
Dave
Live long and prosper

Dave
#2

Advice please on replacement brushless.

Lesfac
this is the set up that I have in my Perkasa & never had any issues I run two motors & two esc,s Hobby King,s Forum is a good place for sourcing information & not costly to learn from other peoples mistakes sometimes simple is better than complicating things save £££££££


XK3665-B-1200KV Brushless inrunner

Specs.
# of poles: 4
Max Amps: 42A
Max Volt: 22.2V
Max Watts: 930W
Rpm/V: 1200kv
Resistance: 0.0285 ohms
No-load Current: 1.3A
Dimension: 36.0mm x 65.0mm
Mounting hole depth: 4.5mm
Length of extend Shaft: 18.5mm
Shaft diameter: 5mm
Weight: 270g
PRODUCT ID: XK3665-B-1200

Kv(rpm/v) 1200
Weight (g) 277
Max Current(A) 42
Resistance(mh) 26
Max Voltage(V) 22
Power(W) 930
Shaft A (mm) 5
Length B (mm) 65
Diameter C (mm) 36
Can Length (mm) 63
Total Length E (mm) 81





HobbyKing 90A Boat ESC 4A SBEC (UK Warehouse)
Specs:
Constant Current: 90A
Burst Current: 120A
Battery: 2-6S Lipoly
BEC: 5.5v / 4A
Motor Type: Sensorless Brushless
Cooling: Watercooled
Size: 87 x 38 x 22mm
Weight: 105g

Programming Functions:
Running Mode: Forward with brake / Forward and reverse with brake / Forward and reverse
Acceleration: 6% / 9% / 12%
Low Voltage Protection: None / 2.6V / 2.8V / 3.0V / 3.2V / 3.4V
Start Mode (Punch): Level 1 / Level 2 / Level 3 / Level 4 / Level 5 / Level 6 / Level 7 / Level 8 / Level 9
Reverse Force: 25% / 50% / 75% / 100%
Timing: 0 / 5 / 10 / 15 / 20 / 25 / 30 / Automatic
PRODUCT ID: 9261000012
Bob Johnson
#1

Advice please on replacement brushless.

Can antone offer advice on this please?
Having burned out my speed controller when my boat picked up a polythene bread wrapper, I am busy trying to get It going again.
The motor Is a brushless EnerG C50-20 and the burned out controller was a maytech 80 amp. It ran very nicely and the 30 amp In line fuse lived happily without blowing. (Until I picked up the bread wrapper)
I have just bought a 160 amp Aquastar speed controller from Hobbyking. The motor will run but Is blowing the 30 amp fuse and sounds rough I Increased the fuse to 80 amp which Is what the motor Is rated at. The motor runs rougher In one direction than the other. The speed Isnt settled and the motor hunts around. Also more worryingly If I give the motor full throttle It starts smoking so It wont last long like that.
I fear that the motor may already be damaged by the Initial mishap
Can anyone tell me If there are any Issues using a speed controller with a large capacity compared to the motor?
I would like to understand If what I have set up should run. Should any speed controller run any motor provided the loading Isnt exceeded?
I suspect that the motor Is Kaput but I have a nagging worry that the new speed controller could have an Issue.
Expensive lark this Isnt It?

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