Looking good, Carl.
I had to add splash rails to my hull along the chine join to prevent water entering the cockpit area.
Dave

Slowly coming together 😊

Been busy with other things but when possible done as much as I can with boat. Full set of printable window frames, windscreen and portholes printed or ready to be printed. Re bushed rudder fixing which worked out pretty well. Made new floors on bottom of boat. Repaired all holes and depression in bottom of hull. Got roofs to fit properly, in process of making new roof parts for fixed part of front cab. Fitted beading around edge of deck, made adjustable motor mount so hopefully when experimenting with various type and sizes any will fit.

By far the most difficult work has been to try and get a nice surface to spray on. Holes not a problem, dents not a problem but all the scratches small dents and blemished in the wood has been a real pain. Too shallow to fill I ended up painting thick layers, filling highlighted areas sanding back practically to wood, painting again and repeating several times whilst allowing paint to dry for 10 days in between. Time consuming but its almost there now with the hull anyway. Top needs more work but that's relatively small areas to work with.

Tryed to keep cost down using what I have available etc but another boat that size in that condition I think another method such as fibreglass will be seriously considered.
Carl

This is the usual place where the skins separate. Looks like the engine mount were through the outer bottom skin. Might be easier to cut out in the engine bay and fit new ply. You could add a stringer to the rib frames and keel to provide a good glue point.
I would expect the rest of the clean up will be much easier than the engine bay, although the stern may have suffered where the exhaust exited.
Dave

So if I've got the terms right ribs are the sectional walls inside hull, chine is corner of the hull. if so the lower hull skin is coming away at both of those points - just in the motor area. Ordered some ply at various thicknesses to remake/repair some parts. I'll do more cleaning until that arrives. I need then to work out a shopping list for all the glues,fillers glass matting, sealer etc. Cap in hand to the better half me thinks 😉

HI Carl
Far better you identify all the failed joints now than later when you start painting. The keel is the central solid lump of woof and the hull sides attach to this. Once you have removed all that gunk you can re glue any failed joints with epoxy. You may need to add good wood to the keel inside to help re-attach the skins.

The hull is clearly cleaning up nicely and your efforts are producing results.
Dave

Bit more paint removal, starting see a little progress now.

One of those days where I think "Should have left well alone" 😯

That's just out of motor section and now parts of lower hull/keel?, sorry don't know correct terms, are coming away. What's that other word I'm thinking of........Scuttling that's it. LOL

That windows looks really good. I'm not surprised there are inconsistencies, building model in the 1960's was popular but the instructions were basic and many builders lacked the woodworking skills. in spite of that there were many well constructed models and the Aerokits range were very good for the novice builder and sailed beautifully.
You seem to be moving quite well with the renovation and will soon have a nice clean and solid hull.
Dave

I wish mine was that clean inside 😭

HI Carl
I suspect the white stuff on the inside of the hull has been added to tidy up the inevitable mess the IC motor made. Could also have been added to try and seal some leaks. I would definitely remove all, including the platform and try and get back to bare wood. The depression seems to be on a flat surface so it should be simple to cut out and replace with new ply.
There seems to be lots of heavy wood that was possibly used for the motor mount, but woun't be needed for a modern electric set up. its quite possible with a hull of this vintage that the original glue has failed on the hull joints. The easy way to cure this is to strip the inside back to clean wood then apply glass mat or cloth between the ribs and cover with lay-up resin. This will guarantee a watertight hull and also add strength.
I am attaching some pics of my Sea Queen prop shaft plus some inside plus some pics of an Aerokits Fire boat (a model I will rebuild at some time, but pics are as bought) hull partly planked, as this is very similar construction.
Sorry a bit mixed up but hopefully give you some detail of what the original looks like.
Been wet here also, too wet to sail.
Dave

Main window openings were not to drawing and not same as each other but managed to make one that fits both, with mirroring for left and right. Just need a larger border I think 😎

Started to rip out motor platform rain keeps stopping play. DAVE M I think you're right and that depression was in at time of original build or a major refit maybe, I'll try to get some decent photos of it later.

I have noticed that using bits of packing under whats left of platform does improve it some what but I think it goes under the larger bulkhead (If that's what it's called) a little as well. Still a bit more time fettling and reinforcing I'm hoping it'll be pretty close.

Carl

Carefully removed putty and although a bit untidy and damp I think it looks a lot better. Prop tube is out now it looks as though it has been extended at some point. Also I'm thinking removing that packing piece will allow me the room to alter angle as required.

Whatever the cause of the depression I can see that the putty, filler and glass concoction under motor platform is holding it where it is. it's actually breaking away from the hull on the other side so it looks like I should remove it all if possible and see what I'm left with.

Carl
If it had an IC fitted the prop shaft bearings will be well worn so replacing and repairing the fixing is your best option.

The angle was set to allow for the height inside the boat for the IC engine mounting and can be set much lower. The original was fitted into the keel at construction so removal may leave quite a large hole - mine certainly did. You should adjust both ends. Once you have the shaft out you can use a piece of dowell to roughly work out the length for the angle required. Lowering the motor end to allow for mounting your motor and setting the depth at the stern to allow clearance for your prop. This may well involve filling out the keel hole to allow for the new angle, just make sure you do not force the prop tube or make a bend, it should slide in easily, you can fill any gaps with Plastic Padding once all is fitted. As Bob suggested a wedge will fill the space. You can then work out the length of prop tube and shaft using the dowell. it may well be different from the original.

Regarding the depression it sounds like it was a result of the original build. Can you post more detailed pics?

Dave

Dave

Yeah I thought about removing it as I think I need to change prop assembly anyway as it's still on 2BA threads. is there a magic formula or something for prop angle? it was on IC the last time out I believe. inside it looks as though the prop tube height has always been the same due to hole being just right size so to adjust it I just alter height on the outside or both?

For the depression I'm no expert but wood feels dry and sound. May look into glass cloth etc later want to get stripping and repairs done first

Bob

Think I may take a break from stripping and if weather is ok tomorrow start to carefully cut/scrape putty away. the original wood may still be under there. if I have to replace wedge I'll have to work out the correct angle which I guessing I'll need motor and prop etc first?

Thanks

Carl

Carl
It looks like The putty could be Milliput clean it off I would make a wedge from ply and epoxy it onto the shaft & hull, if you glass the hull inside you can fill any depressions in the skins with car bodge it looks a daunting task but the end result will be rewarding keep at it you will get there
good luck
Bob

That prop tube exit looks a mess. I suggest you remove completely and refit if not too damaged. The angle is quite steep suggesting it aws used with an ic engine. if you do refit you could alter the angle to suit thy electric motor you are fitting, just make sure you leave enough room for the prop. I use plastic padding to set my prop tubes in place and if you wet your finger you can smooth the filler into a nice shape, prior to final smoothing with wet and dry. Super glue is good to hold everything in place whilst you apply the filler.
Not sure about your depression. if the wood feels spongy chances are water has weakened the ply laminations so it may need cutting back to sound wood and a new piece fitting.
I covered my hull in glass cloth and laminating resin to make sure it remains waterproof. Takes a bit of effort and time but you can achieve a very good finish.
Looks like you are winning with the hull. it will be worth the effort.
Dave

What seems like hours and hours I'm slowly making some headway with stripping the hull. What a job that is.

I've also included pics for a couple of the concerns I've got, one of the prop tube exit which seem like putty to me and also one of a depression in the hull, which may or may not be caused by the motor platform (pic in first post).

It may be wishful thinking but I hope that removing the platform and some of the filler it might pop back out... time will tell.

Carl

Here are a few pictures of one that I built a few years ago I sold it on then it came back to me in a sorry state for restoration I changed the original motor for a 850 MFA torpedo it still runs on a 12v 9mah battery
they are a good solid broads cruiser this is one of my favourite boats

Looks quite restorable. Took me about a week to get all the paint off my model. Properly applied Dulux is quite tenacious!. Can't see inside but if it had an ic engine you do need to make sure you remove all the old fuel oil in the main cabin area. if it has impregnated the wood I would replace. I replaced the shaft and bearings in my model as they were really worn.
Good luck
Dave