Thanks Dave, the mast is removable, so if it becomes a problem it can be sorted, probably with solder, which I should have done in the first place 😯

Alan

Looking good Alan
Hopefully you will not manage to knock the mast at some time. However the Araldite should provide some extra support to allow for the odd knock.
Dave 😀

Just a bit of an update.
I took all the advice and used thick superglue, when this had dried I applied a very small amount of Araldite with a tooth pick around the joints.
It seems to have worked up to now.
Photo's are of it been glued, removed and painted, and then fitted.
I am trying to build the boat as it is today (mostly guard duty) so in case anyone is interested there is a photo of the aft deck that is practically finished

I've use super glue before always done me well once aloud to dry and then painted can take a bit of a beating, 5 tube for a quid pound land.

I had toyed with using super glue Roger, but didn't think it would be strong enough, but I hadn't thought of epoxy. Think I might try a test piece with epoxy.
Thanks Roger

Alan

Probably a stupid idea but why not use thick superglue or epoxy
roger

Thanks for the replies.
Reading the responses it looks as though solder paste is not going to be strong enough.

I have done quite a bit of silver soldering but I think the heat required with the pieces in position on the boat makes this a no go.

So its going to be scaffolding on the boat to hold the pieces, tin the joints before hand, plenty of heat sinks (wet rags) and using a very small flame and fine multi cored solder, and go for it 😁

Ill post a photo of the set up just in case anyone else struggles in the future, as soon as I have finished fighting with the handrails 😯

Alan

HI Alan
I have used solder paste on printed circuits to fix SMD parts but not tried in the way you suggest. You do need to apply supprt and pressure to the SMD whilst the solder flows so you would need some kind of jig. I use a cocktail stick with SMDs and the part sinks as the solder flows. The solder paste is not cheap, you can source from Farnel or Rapid. it is designed for use with copper or tin plated parts so may not work well with brass.
It may make for a neater joint but you would have to probably heat the whole lot in one go and apply pressure to seat the parts as the solder flows.
I use a good solder paste and cored solder and an iron with enough heat to raise both parts to the correct temperature in as short a time as possible. Both parts need to be clean and free from any contaminant. You may need to protect previously soldered parts with heat dissipating devices.
It would be interesting to hear how you progress should you decide to use solder paste.
Good luck
Dave

HI guys this old fart used it in my youth. it is normally used to fix flat plates together and is low temperature stuff. it can also be used on multI strand copper wire. I would not think it has enough strength for your use. Now if you have a small blow torch why not try silver solder wire? Very strong forms a neat joint with a nice fillet that looks like a weld. Only just started using it myself and its great
Roger

Good idea Lee, wooden scaffolding around the job, 👍

Guess no one has used solder paste, or they are keeping it a secret 😭 😀

Alan

HI Alan
I would be inclined to make a wooden jig to hold in place then solder together will make it easier to work with. Lee