Help Please
Help Please
Your symptoms are similar to a problem I had and were down to loss of signal.
I see you have your RX aerial high up in the boat and I am assuming you have separated the main motor/battery wiring from the Rx wiring.
I believe there is a range test function on your TX which should help you identify if this is the cause. You will need a friend to watch the model response whilst you walk away. Your manual should advise how far you should have control in this mode.
If there is a problem I would try re-binding the Tx/Rx to see if this helps.
Have you used a watt meter to check the current draw with your motor/prop combination? if this is in excess of the motor / ESC or battery amp rating it could be the voltage drops momentarily below any cut off voltage set on the ESC. You may need to set the ESC to the correct battery type.
As Paul says a separate Rx battery with the ESC red wire disconnected will help avoid this problem.
Good luck and please advise how you progress
Dave
Dave
Help Please
If using a separate battery supply, which is really the best way, you have to disconnect the red signal wire from the esc, otherwise the rx is getting two feeds
Read my fireboat build in the build blogs, it covers all manner of esc/power problems, and might give you a pointer, particularly the latter part of the build during testing! mainly turnigy esc's!
Help Please
There is a posible cause not mentioned, power drop out, the problem semms to happen when the boat starts to move or extra load is put on the battery. the helI boys and electric R/C get this problem and its caused by a powre drain below the ESC cutoff point, it only takes a split second and the reciever goes into a safe mode, add a set of capasitors, this holds enough power to jump the shutdown.
Remember we use half throtle on the sticks with reverse, nutral in the middle, might be your problem, try it with a seperate battery for the reciever.
Mark
Help Please
I know its of no use to you, but you're not alone........
Help Please
its difficult to diagnose without seeing the boat but its the fact the rudder channel is playing up
Help Please
That site deals with brushless motors in helicopters but the data is valid for any kind of model.
it may help you understand timing, for your boat start with the lowest setting. See how it performs, if you want to go faster advance the timing and try it again.
in a nutshell more advanced timing more speed more heat!
Sir Terence David John "Terry" Pratchett, OBE (28 April 1948 - 12 March 2015)
Help Please
Thanks for your help with my problem as you might have gathered I'm not very hot on electronics, I try and get through by what I can find on the internet (thank God for Google ) as to your question my receiver is powered through my motor batteries
4S lipos.
As you say you have used a few Turnigy Esc's maybe you could advise me on my set up?
My esc.... Turnigy 120a
Motor...... Leopard 4074 brushless
Batt..........2x500 4S
I set it up with the Turnigy marine programming card as follows.
1... Forward and reverse ...No2
2.... Lipo cells. ....No4
3....low voltage cut off. ....No4. ...3.2 V
4....timing. .....No4 ....11.25 deg. ( sorry no idea what this. is for )
I will reset this week and do a test then as you say swap the receiver if still no better.
Again many thanks for your help
Peter
Help Please
It sound to me that you had a receiver problem, or low receiver voltage, do you use a separate battery for the receiver, or the motor batteries?
I would reprogramme the esc, and bench test, not on the water, if still a problem, as suggested, swop equipment from another boat to eliminate what is going on.
Help Please
BUT since I am from Yorkshire if I do meet the devil he will give me paper and sticks then tell me to go start my own.
Sir Terence David John "Terry" Pratchett, OBE (28 April 1948 - 12 March 2015)
Help Please
Peter
Help Please
Sir Terence David John "Terry" Pratchett, OBE (28 April 1948 - 12 March 2015)
Help Please
Am going to strip all the electrics out slowly looking at every bit and replace if I find anything. But will try new Rx first as a starting point.
Peter
Help Please
a lose connection particularly a high current wire will generate a lot of interference. A corroded connection likewise can cause a problem, I dunno if you remember but I can remember the "black wire " problem we all had.
Sir Terence David John "Terry" Pratchett, OBE (28 April 1948 - 12 March 2015)
Help Please
Peter
Help Please
That should sort out part of your problem since you can either confirm or exclude your radio link as the cause of the problem.
Since you said, "trusty Perkasa MTB", I guess its a model you used before so unless you changed something interference would probably not be a problem.
Fault finding at a distance is never easy so that's about the best I can do hope it helps.
Sir Terence David John "Terry" Pratchett, OBE (28 April 1948 - 12 March 2015)
Help Please
Hope there are some modellers out there who can help with my problem, took my trusty Perkasa MTB out yesterday for a pleasant days sailing but it was not to be, after putting the boat in the water I gently pulled on the trigger ( I use a pistol grip tx with this model ) to move away from the wall but it shot off with a roar as if at full throttle I released the trigger and it stopped, tried again and again it shot of I also noticed if I turned the wheel (rudder) it also turned the motor all be it very slow.
I launches a second time after checking all the wires, connections ETC and for the first few mins it was running fine till a moved the rudder to turn and again it shot off.
Not wanting to risk hitting anyone else's models I called it a day and sailed another boat I had taken with me.
My problem now is what was the cause? I would think it's got to be either the ESC, Recever,Transmitter or interference but I can't afford to just buy Say a new ESC on the off chance that is the problem then have to buy a recever, Transmitter, Etc
Any help would be very much appreciated boat specs below.
Perkasa 49" MTB
Leopard 4074 brushless motor water cooled
Tinergy 120A ESC water cooled
35 prop
2 x 500 4S lipos wired in parallel
Mtroniks digisound sound module on separate MiNI 7.2v battery
Spektrum DX2E radio
Many thanks
Peter
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