Thanks Dave & Haverlock, very helpful.

Actually, I am not geographically far from Cheshire; on the isle of Man. it's quite sunny here although the wind is cool. Still, at least it's dry and the harbours contain some interesting (to me anyway) boats. if you haven't been, it's well worth a visit.

Edward

ok then it would seem the tags are alt. V in
as to the motor mount

"the mount is held on to the motor by 2 plastic lugs that are moulded on to the mount & push fit into the motor. if the mount has been removed before its not to hard to pull it off, however the first time can be a b***h to separate them. Pull on the motor case, not the plastic brush cover, if you have a very thin screwdriver try pushing it down the side of the motor & mount & levering it off. However, since the mount is already knackered you could just hack it to pieces.
These motors are old now & I doubt you will be able to find a replacement mount, but, once removed, there will be 2 holes in the front of the motor casing that could take small self tapping screws, so its possible to make a mount."

The above copied from another forum

HI Edward
Just been and looked at my monoperms. One's in bits and it is clear that the tabs are connected to the switching mechanism so can be used to solder the caps. You will have to scratch your casing to make the solder connection, that is how I fixed mine. I painted over the solder and the rust has not taken hold (yet). You can solder to the screw posts if you prefer.
Hope the weather is warmer than here in Cheshire. We appear to be in an Artic blast, so whilst cloudy and sunny it is cold.
I had removed my casing but can't remember how, sorry.
Dave

Thanks Haverlock. Yes, I have a multimeter and have checked them. There is a low resistance between the lug and corresponding tag. I am on holiday at the moment (all right for some, do I hear!) so I can not check, but seem to recall no current flowed between the two lugs.
Edward

do you have a simple multimeter? if you do check resistance between the tags and the posts. if you don't have one, consider buying one because they are well worth having, but if you can solder get a torch bulb and some wire, solder 2 wires to the bulb and connecting that to the battery gives you a simple continuity tester.

connect one bulb wire to battery positive, a wire from battery negative to one of the tags and the other bulb wire to each of the posts in turn. if the posts and tags are the same electrical connection the bulb will light if the bulb doesn't then the tags are case connections. Try a connection in the same way between both of the tags and make sure both are the same.

HI Dave

The motor lugs are brass posts but I haven't an issue soldering to them. The brass lugs either side seem to be connected to the lugs and I wonder if they are alternative power connections rather than connections to the casing?

Edward

HI Edward
The two lugs are attached to the casing and can be used to solder the capacitors. You can use connectors with holes to attach to the screwed motor connectors, again soldered.

Sorry can't help with the motor mount, but if it's screwed to the motor it should be easy to remove.
Cheers
Dave

HI Dave,
Thanks for the response. I guess you have answered part (a) of my question, thank you. How should I make the connection with the casing do you think? I am reluctant to scrape the casing but will if need be. Also, is it possible to remove the motor from its mounts?
Edward

HI cenbeth
The monoperm motors are from an earlier age and whilst good in their day they were noisy electrically so suppression would be a good idea. Make sure you route the motor wiring from the battery and ESC to the motor as far away as possible from the Rx and the aerial wires.
There is a diagram on our site at http://model-boats.com/rc/motors/suppression , its under All Things RC. The lugs are for attaching the caps so you can keep your nice hammered finished motor case.
dave