I've never used the glass cloth, but I do know epoxy, from models to full size wooden narrow boat cabins. I applied epoxy (WEST) to the new cabins I built with an old credit card. 2 coats. Then red oxide primer followed by 3 coats of enamel top coat gloss. By the time I sold the boat those cabins had gone through 3 winters and still the water ran off like a duck's back.
I can't see how the glass can be safely or invisibly rubbed down with out seeing the overlaps in the finish. But I guess if you CAN rub it down invisibly it can't hurt, it just seems unecessary to me. Plus my work on a full sized boat kind of proves you don't need it. I have just epoxied the skin of my pre-War Marbehead yacht too, that'll be gently rubbed down and re-coated, then it'll be sprayed with enamel paint, using a touch-up gun and HMG enamel paint. I will not use acrylic for anything.
On a new build, I have used cellulose sanding sealer to fill grain thoroughly (up to 10 coats, but they go on one after another it dries so quickly), followed by either self etch primer (because I have a load of it) and finally enamels. I do NOT mean Humbrols! The enamels I use are made by HMG and are intended for industrial/commercial vehicles. That's plenty good enough for me!

I should also point out that I have 2 models which are now well over 50 years old and still bear their original enamel paint. No water ingress has ever occurred.

Martin

Geez, what a majestic build. Thanks for the links...this is the look I'm seeking. it's a stock photo, I'll add.

HI Ken
Glad to have helped. I see there is a company over your side of the pond http://uscomposites.com/products.html that have all the bits you need. You can use epoxy but polyester is just as good. Prices are so much cheaper than in the UK.
I was not sure about model plane use but it certainly is used on full size gliders and I found this site http://modelaviation.com/freeflightmaterials. You can apply direct to the hull and remove excess with a plastic scraper.
Your hull looks very similar to the hulls we built for the Titanic and Olympic. We added a black tint to the epoxy to save on paint costs. Some pics attached, we sealed the inside with glass cloth and polyester and the hulls are both light and strong.
You should do a build blog as your progress will inspire others
Dave

Hey Dave,
Thanks for your good advice. I have a friend who's into RC Planes and will ask about his experiences.
I'm familiar with gas as used in auto-body but it's too course. Didn't know about any finer.
This is where I'm at now. I used poly on the inside.

HI Ken
Nice to hear you have built in wood. One of the problems that can occur over time is water penetration into the wood and glue joints. in the past dope and tissue were often used to form a barrier. Nowadays you can buy fine grade glass cloth and laminating resin which can be applied sparingly to the hull to provide an impervious surface that can be sanded smooth and takes paints easily.
It is also beneficial to apply to the inside of the hull to protect against any water ingress and condensation.
The material is used for many applications and in particular for full size glider wings. U-tube should have a few useful videos to help you understand the basics. To keep the weight down the resin is spread with a plastic card (credit card size) to force the resin into the weave. I rub down after the initial coat and apply a fine skim coat which will dry silky smooth and hard.

Rattle spray cans are readily available and can act as the primer/undercoat for the final colour. The red oxide makes for a good below waterline colour. Try and avoid gloss, the silk type will look more realistic.
Good luck
Dave