well if you have DEEP pockets and want the ultimate in agility use a couple of these


http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Voith_Schneider_Drives.html

2 of these units will give forwards back and side to side positioned front and back.

That is how the Woolwich ferry is powered, and anyone who has used it can confirm the gymnastics it goes through.

RE Royal Iris (ii)? if this is the " FISH & CHIP boat she could turn out of a tight berth using alternating thrust from her twin screws An impressive maneouvre

ok shall do laughs and yeah its STILL all your fault Dave

I can understand now. Seems to be a fairly basic method of achieving set outputs. it seems to be a requirement for quad copters, but it would work some of the switchers available.
Have you tried using any of the logic functions? For your purpose this may provide the sort of feedback input for your auto pilot.
With all the knobs and switches I do believe adding another 6 would possibly overload the grey matter in my ageing skull.
Please keep us posted on your progress, possibly on a new thread relating to Taranis programming?

The S3 is an unused input on a plus. The 6 position switch is coded so you can switch between 6 defined output values.

As to why well think of 6 defined servo positions. Used with logical switches it opens a whole new set of options.

http://www.supremefpv.com/Taranis-6position-switch

It can be fitted as an extra on a plus



Why would I want to do it ??? Technophile and cos I can !!!! laughs

"my TX has more bells and whistles than your TX " laughs

Seriously I am playing around with autonomous control so need a multi position switch to select modes on the auto pilot.

Remember my thoughts about driving a coach and horses through the "spirit" of straight running!

Even if I never actually enter in a comp its an interesting exercise ( I don't want to cheat just playing with systems)

You must have a different version possibly a Taranis Plus. I have no S3 switch. Please explain why you might wan't this addition.
Dave

have you retrofitted the 6 pos S3 switch ? if so any problems. if not WHY NOT? I am considering the idea and would much sooner not be a trail blazer.

Why would I wan't to change existing equipment that works as it is. Unless I buy from inside the EU chances are it will not be compliant. if it is I will just flash the rx.
It may be an EU directive but not one we have to follow, and that may also be a reason for not complying 😉

Sailed the Schooner today, first time out under control and all went well apart from water ingress. I have an emergency access hatch to the fore section and this was not sealed and with no coaming allowed water ingress. Once sealed it will be OK. Going to play with the Taranis settings so that I can make fine adjustments on the water. it was also useful to have feedback on the screen of the onboard battery and signal strength. Still needs a bit of superstructure work, and am looking for a nice nubile female crew to adorn the decks and a red ensign to fly at the masthead. 😀

Dave I have to ask :-

Since you can flash the TX why not do the one time exercise and flash all of your equipment to the "LBT" standard then new equipment will just work?

Thanks Mark and Haverlock. I never said you had to buy, I only pointed you in the direction of this very versatile TX, honest. 😀
As regards the two versions they are different in that the EU version has to check if a channel is free of conjestion before transmitting on that channel.
It only applies to the EU and sets from abroad could have either system installed. The rule only applies to new equipment purchased after Jan 2015/6, I'm not sure which year, but you can continue to use any equipment that uses either system.
Good news is you can very easily flash the required code to your Tx or Rx . if you do choose to buy a Taranis there are regular updates available that add new functions as the code is open source and there is a large an active source of modellers and programmers who make frequent improvements and additions.
I have a non EU compliant Tx as it was purchased pre the dictat so I change any Rx I buy to suit my systems.
My latest project is a 5' Schooner that uses a sail winch for the two main sails and a lever servo for the foresails. I control both servos from the left hand vertical stick with the winch in Rx ch2 and the lever in ch4. I can also take over control of ch4 by throwing a switch on the tx and using the left hand horizontal stick to control the foresails.
I also have another switch to allow me dual rate on the rudder servo - make it easier to keep a straight line in a good blow.
If you are buying from China there may be some UK charges to pay, but the sets are available from UK suppliers.
I Googled and found several, including some on e-bay. They sometimes claim to be UK stock but it's not always the case, so you do need to check carefully and verify. if there is any mention of customs duty not their responsibility this may be an indication of non UK stock.
Happy days
Dave 😀

Thanks for the info, I blame Dave for everything electronic, I just about plug things together!!! he understands why they work !!!!!!!

God help him when your missus gets a grip of him. I know just what the LOOK means..

Mark

jarvo watch out taranus comes in 2 flavours EU and none EU versions.

The 2 are NOT interchangeable a none EU TX will not bind with a EU RX. and visa versa, you can "flash" to correct BUT why go through the hassle?

BTW if I seem to be a taranus fan blame dave its all his fault !!!!!!

PS my other half just saw this and said " if I ever meet Dave he is getting a side eye from me cos it is all his fault"

Don6398,
Was trying to eliminate an ESC and get down to one. For me, it worked well and will use again.
However, if good maneuverability is needed (such as with a tug), then using two is preferable.
Have never tried the mixer approach, that would simplify control handling.
Food for thought - which is one of the reasons these forums are so interesting.

Not only that Haverlock, Banggood have the Taranis on offer at the moment

Mark

There are any number of stand alone throttle/rudder mixers.
However Derek wanted the option of single stick -twin stick and the FrSky taranis TX has that ability built in. As a radio system its complex but you can have "logical switches" so that one output can do different things depending upon other inputs.

This includes ( but is not limited to) changing which channel a given stick is outputting on.

The system also has telemetry so your transmitter can read the state of the model's battery among other things.

Action Electronics also do a mixer that does this. My Southamton tug only had one ESC and the turning performance left a lot to be desired, but with 2 ESCs and the Action P40 mixer it will, literally, turn in its own length.

Chris

Ok ta, I'll look at them.

I have large tug 54" long and weights approximately 70LBS. I have has a terrible time in making the model respond to anytype of turns when in reverse.
Harbor models has a throtte and Rudder Mixer. that solve the entire situation. Each engine must have it own controller. When you go to starboard the starboard prop stops while the port prop continues. To make it even turn quicker to can set the switches on the mixer make the starboard Prop go in reverse and still have the port prop continue foward. You almost don't need the rudder. it has been a life saver. (harbormodels.com)

The tug has running with excellent control. Just added a sound system which even makes it more
realistic . The mixer is a P40D. I am now working AZIZ Build by model shipways.

Derek there is a solution to your problem buy a FrSky system if you can think of a mixing situation you want it can be configured to suit.

There are modules available for FrSky transmitters to allow them to work with other manufacture's receivers.
So you should be able to keep your existing equipment.

I have 5 scale models with twin propulsion. 3 are ferries, 1 a cargo ship, and 1 a paddle tug. All are controlled using a Robbe F14 Navy twin-stick with two motors, and most have twin ESC's. Of the three ferries, two are long and slim (Mona's isle and Wahine). I have found no advantage in having independent control of the screws, and I operate them with both sticks linked together. The rudders (bow and stern) are adequate for control. in fact, to save weight I removed one ESC from the Wahine. The cargo ship (under construction) will have one ESC, based on this experience.
The third ferry (Royal Iris) with a 3:1 length/beam ratio has a wider spacing between screws, but also has twin rudders. Using only rudder control the model will almost turn within its own length, and separate control of the screws gives no advantage.
Twin control comes into its own on the paddle tug. it will turn on the spot with separate control of the paddles.

As Haverlock says the control is better with two ESCs and the real Tyne had two controls to help the vessel perform its rescue operations. However for a model that is not likely to be sailed in adverse conditions this is really down to personal choice. Possibly those of us who used to or still fly model planes, the use of two or more TX sticks is almost second nature but this needs to be practiced to become proficient.
There are mixer devices available for use with brushed ESCs that allow very good control of both motors and rudder with just two sticks. Component shop via their Action kits can supply.
If you enjoy sailing with your set up then keep sailing.
Dave 😀

I used to have 40meg digifleet radio gear. With these there was a switch for independent or joint throttle control. Can't seem to do this on spektrum dx6i or the newer dx6. Anyone managed this

If you ever go over to brushless motors ( lots of advantages) you HAVE to have 1 ESC per motor.

With brushed motors you can use just 1 ESC but you lose the ability to match motor performances. With 1 ESC you also lose the ability to mix rudder and throttle to have differential thrust to aid steering.

Having said all of that its your choice and if it works for you have fun and enjoy that's what its all about.