Hi Onetenor

Thank you for your advice, it is well taken.
I don't generally work on wooden models, as my collection of boats are all made of plastic.
Except for one it's my number 1 barge which I finished awhile back but,
I didn't have any finishing supplies so I used Ducktape neatly of course.
My number 2 barge I want to finish it correctly, as you recommend the use of varnish or resin.

Ed

There are various ways to do this but the simplest way is to use thinned dope or paint/varnish.Giving 3 or 4 coats This thinned paint etc soaks into the timber not just sitting on top and also seeps into the nooks and crannies. Epoxy or other resins can also be used, again well thinned so it soaks in .Be fairly liberal with it and tilt and twist the hull in all directions so the paint runs into all the nooks and crannies. Good luck with it John

Hi Dave

Thanks, for the info and the recommendation!
I sprits some water on both sides of the wood, then put weight on it.
it seems to have worked because it kept it's shape!
This piece of wood is going to be used as the back for my Dumas Barge.
it's 1/8" thick so it's fairly flexible but on the other hand,
I don't want a warped barge so I've had weights on it for about a month now.
It kept it's shape good!

On to my next project a Barge,
what recommendation do you have about water proofing a Barge,
see this is my second barge, the first one I water proofed it using Duck Tape any thoughts on what to do?

Ed

Hi Ed
As regards keeping the wood straight remember it was a living material and will absorb any dampness in the air and take on a new shape unless held in place. This is important if you are using a water based glue. in the case of compound curves on skins I have used temporary placed shaped balsa behind the skin to ensure the contours are maintained.
Dave

"Success"

My 1/8" sheet of ply is now true, reason being I'm using it on my Dumas Barge.
Although the Dumas Barge has ribs every 6.5" all so, I wanted this sheet to be as straight as possible.
So my Barge comes out as straight as can be!

Thanks, Haverlock for the advice.

ED

I totally agree with the above.It is remarkable how much of a bend can be achieved by either method

Make sure its weighted down on a flat surface otherwise the warp will just come right back. Really it should be HOT when you clamp it down so it fixes into the new shape.

The side pieces of acoustic guitars are formed using water and a hot bending iron and once cooled they can stand unsupported on a bench ( this is in indian rosewood or other exotic).

Ammonia solution is worth remembering it REALLY changes the characteristics of wood for a short while. That's how we used to make rolled balsa bodies for gliders. 1/16 balsa wrapped around a snooker queue.

Hi Haverlock

Thanks, I've done like you said sprayed with water,
I could see the wood unwarp before my vary eyes.
Now just have to let it dry for 24 hours.
Thanks again for the advice it worked like a charm.

Ed

dampen it both sides let the water soak in for a little while then while your wife is out use a steam iron on it. Wood becomes very pliable when hit with steam. Once its pretty flat place it under a weight ( books are good) on a flat surface and leave for about 24 hours repeat if needed. Steaming wood is a very ancient method and even today its how they make "bent wood" furniture.

if you ever want to get more extreme you can use ammonia solution but that take a longer time before the wood is back up to strength.