thanks peter

All of the above suggestion should work fine, but a good idea to remove as much H2O as possible after every sail, and leave hatches etc open at least over night, to allow for any remaining dampness to dissipate that may have by-passed the waterproof coating, Have a 1/24th scale Vosper Motor Torpedo boat, constructed using balsa with tissue cover, which is some 30-40 years old, hull still sound using the above mantra. 😎

hi thanks for recommending ronseal, only problem is we cant get it here in oz, but that didn't stop me getting it i bought it on ebay, only problem is the post cost more tan the product, but hey ho

hi i use Ronseal High Performance Wood Filler fills any depth dry in half an hour sands lovely.fills holes.

hi dave can you recomend wood filler please mate

Hi Colin
I'm happy to see there's someone else how uses cascamite l thought l was the only one, everyone else seem to use PVA's. it is a great glue but not on wood that has been soaked in oil. Best of look with the restoration.
Regards Dave

thanks mark im new to this lol, colin

Hi mate, look at Daves avatar, below the picture there are 2 blue boxes, 1 says profile and the lower one says PM, click on that and send your message, when Dave replies it will appeare at the top of the page in the message box, also in you email in box

Mark

thanks every one that replied to me, dave how do i send you a pm as i dont know how to, colin😎

i am going to try very thin cascamite. i read on a website this was a good method. I am no expert and will let you know the results when i try it.

Hi Colin
The Billing plank on frame models are from an earlier era and were very popular in their day. My first model was their Mercantic. I used Cascamite glue which worked fine for about 20 years but then the wood cracked along the glue lines😡.
The solution depends on the hull finish you seek to acquire.
If you want a bare wood finish then you need to fit and glue the planks very carefully so that the joins look correct. You then need to seal the inside with a thin coat of resin run all over the inside right up to the bulwark. For best results you can use tissue, glass fibre or cloth cut to fit between the formers. Just make sure you stipple the resin into the cloth and try to avoid any bubbles.
If your hull will be painted then, after final preparation, you can cover in a similar way as described above. You then rub down and fill any imperfections with Body filler. I usually also do the inside also to protect the internal wood from any water ingress.
When I built the Olympic and Titanic with my friend Bill we used this method. I have attached a few pics showing the stages.
We built from plans with ply frmes and 4mm balsa sheet. The outside is covered with glass cloth and epoxy resin whilst the inside is covered with Fiberglass cloth and poly layup resin.
We took many pics and I have them on my Dropbox account. if you send me a private message with your email address I will share. its free to join and you can view on line and download as many as you want.
Have fun
Dave