PPS re 'Voltage booster'!
Can't follow the thinking🤔
If you're sticking in 24V and want 12V out a simple 12V regulator (3 pin device (looks like a power transistor) would do the job, but mind the current rating!! But why?--->KISS !!
😎

Super 👍 I'm very glad about that. 😊
and now for plain sailing and lots of fun 👍
😎

simple now 2 x motors 2 x esc,s 2 x 12 volt batteries.
Sorted....

Hi Sonar,
'KISS'! No I've not gone funny -> 'Keep it Stupid and Simple' 😉
😎

Hi dave,
"If it works don't fix it"!
cheers
Doug 😎

Hi Sonar,
Not surprised the chip didn't work! First it needs a few external components, Second: it's only rated for 6A!! And this drops off as the temperature rise.
Not sure why you want to waste power like this anyway!?
😎

The esc stuff is all working now.

So i have just hooked up a LM2577 Voltage Booster input 3.5 - 30V, output up to 30V adjustable

The idea is to have 24 volts battery input and the output stays at 12 volts.

Having just said that it has come from action electronics and does not work .....Again.

So I will have to stick with 12 volts ....

so far as electronize esc,s go there heavy duty and also used so I have been told on the robots used in robot wars..

Hi Doug
Know it well and used to build my own from a published circuit using now discontinued chip.
Misleading for a dual set up possibly. if there is no switch provided the two switch wires can confuse some, like my friend.

His wouldn't work with the BEC disconnected. it was a dual set up connected to an Action mixer. Has to use a separate rx battery to set up the rx before the ESC. it's 2.4 and takes longer than the ESC so doesn't provide the correct mid point for the ESC to find. By switching rx on first all is OK.
Both ESCs have the red lead disconnected so are dead as are the motors until the switch is thrown.
There is built in suppression in the BEC circuit which is not enabled in one ESC with your set up.
On switch on the motor runs for half a second and I assume takes a big chunk of current. Using the switch gives better control and allows for each motor to switch on one at a time.
If one set of wires are shorted and both ESCs wired thro a Y lead both motors will arm at the same time and might produce some unpredictable results.
I agree its good to see Sonar is up and running and happy.
Dave

Hi Dave
you may be right! Don't know the Electronise stuff. if that is so then the diagram is misleading isn't it?
Main thing is Sonar is up and running and happy 👍
Doug 😎

Doug
I do believe the FR15 uses the BEC to provide a 4.2v supply to the PIC chip. if you don't switch on the ESC it won't work.
Just seen Sonars post so seems all is OK
Dave

Many thanks

Now sorted used a flat battery.
Changed them over worked first time so again many thanks

Nope! if you've only got throttle and rudder functions that's it. Or do you want to control each motor independently?
If so take out the Y cable and connect the two ESCs to the two throttle channels. Comments re BEC still apply!!
Gotta go now, invited out to dinner 😜😊
Bon chance Doug 😎

O.K Seems I still have something missing the rx is a 6 channel but now only the servo and the throttle goes into it am I missing something else ?

Hi
Yep! On the diagram it looked like there is a switch fitted, like on my Graupner ESCs.
If open wires then join them on ONE ESC ONLY. insulate them on the other ESC. 😎

leave one of them SWITCHED OFF!
does that mean one esc join the orange and red bec wires and leave the other esc with wires not joined

Hi Steve,
As your ESCs have an ON/OFF switch for the BEC (orange and red twisted wires) leave one of them SWITCHED OFF! Unless you want to use a separate RX batt. in that case switch 'em BOTH OFF!
To drive both ESCs from one RX port: plug the ESCs into the sockets of the Y cable and the plug end into your usual throttle output channel of the RX. Don't forget to reverse the power leads on one motor, or the FUSES!
Doug 😎