The Chinese too, check this out! 😲
https://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/09/08/3d-printed-houses_n_5773408.html
😎

Einsteins theory of relalive infinity is again proven to be correct thanks to the advances of 3D printing 👍😁,there printing a 3D house in one of the Scandanavian counntries but i couldent find the link again and there was me thinking that Lego was advanced😁

Of course not! it's recycled.
They send it round a Black Hole to 'spaghettify' it, then wind it back on the printer spool 😉

wonder if the build material burns up on re-entry 👍😜

Wayne's next printer?? 😉
https://all3dp.com/meet-aerospace-engineers-using-giant-3d-printers-create-rockets/?omhide=true&utm_source=Newsletter&utm_campaign=a1f43b69d5-Newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_9dffeeddae-a1f43b69d5-366732985

Another one for Midlife!

https://all3dp.com/?utm_source=Newsletter&utm_campaign=3db60a5a6a-Newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_9dffeeddae-3db60a5a6a-366732985
Cheers Doug 😎

Hi All, here's another useful link for the curious, beginners and pros (like Wayne) alike😉
https://all3dp.com/1/free-3d-modeling-software-free-3d-design-software-3d-cad/?omhide=true&utm_source=Newsletter&utm_campaign=5226a02f9b-Newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_9dffeeddae-5226a02f9b-366732985
Descriptions and sources of FREE design software for all levels and user intentions. Also able to simply import existing designs and print or modify; e.g scale 👍 Cheers Doug 😎

Hi Wayne, Re 3D printing costs 😲 - maybe this link can help?
https://all3dp.com/1/20-thrifty-tips-to-help-reduce-the-cost-of-3d-printing/?omhide=true&utm_source=Newsletter&utm_campaign=5226a02f9b-Newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_9dffeeddae-5226a02f9b-366732985
Cheers Doug 😎

It's taken a while to print, I've just finished glueing it together. it's just over 600mm long x 450mm wide & weighs 350g in its current state.
What do you all think?
I've got a brushed Venti 600 motor to go in it, I'll try & get it mounted tomorrow.
Cheers
Wayne

Take a sunshade, they've got 40+ degrees down there 😡
(Sneak a Dremel into your case 😉)

Just spent a couple of hours today cleaning up the waterjet & marking up the rear section of the Crackerbox hull where it will eventually fit, it's too big for this hull but it's going in regardless.
I'm flying to Spain in the morning so I'll be suffering Dremel withdrawal symptoms until I get back😳
Cheers
Wayne

Absolutely!! 👍👍👍
and you CAN teach old dogs new tricks! 😉
The rescaling is an excellent point.
Cheers Doug 😎

Hi Doug
No I use silicon to make my moulds and Fast cast resin for the castings.
The beauty of the 3D is the speed with which I can get an original to make my moulds. Also I can then rescale to the correct dimensions for a different model.
Add to that the fact that I can add lots of fine detail that may be challenging if I was making each original.
Technological advances are great but it does tend to make us lazy and lose the some of the skills we have developed.
I do admire the true scale modellers who make all their own fittings and there are many on this site who produce stunning models from whatever materials they can find.
It is good to see Build Blogs that cover a multitude of techniques and skills and it is always interesting to see how others have approached and tackled their project. Such knowledge is fast disappearing and it is sites like this where members share their projects that keep the hobby alive.
Dave

OK, I'm convinced, I'll use the SD card and USB slots! independence is definitely better. 👍
Dave; good idea with the casting. Do you print the original 'inside out' to create the mould directly or print a positive to make rubber moulds from? Regards Doug 😎

Hi Colin, very sorry if I upset you 😭 Was not my intention! Must learn not to chat/mail too late at night. 🤔
Understand the problem with dumbphones, often one isn't sure if they've really done what you wanted 😡
Agree with you about drawing, although I learned Tech Drawing the traditional way at college, for decades I've been using Autocad, Designer, Visio and co. Anyone want to buy a box of 3H to 6H pencils??
Best regards Doug 😎

Hi Wayne
I did warn you about the noise. I also have complaints about the smell but I do use a heated bed and my printer is not in an enclosure.
I have to agree that a usb stick is the best option to use as the timescale can be hours if not days and adding a PC and LAN to the equation does not help.
I bought my printer to make originals that I can then make castings off. I can take any CAD drawing and scale to any size so the process is both quick and straightforward. As you have found there is a wealth of subject matter on line.
Whilst a 3D printer is great for small quantities it is not so good if you intend mass production. Many hearing printer perhaps believe the 3D process will be just as quick when in fact it is anything but quick.
I have to ask, how are you progressing with the Arduino?
Have fun
Dave

Sorry about repeats, phone screen wasn't showing as sent, also wasn't getting at you modern techno chaps, just wish all modellers a good life, my modelling is therapy for my arthritis. I used cad and g code in my job as an engineering works manager and once you get to use it it's just like drawing by without the hassle of pencil sharpening.

Looks like a two seater crapper! 😉😁 Very sociable! 😲

All done👍
Cheers
Wayne

WLAN is way above my ability, I just use the micro SD card it came with😂
It's 66% done now, wife's not happy with the noise😳
Cheers
Wayne

PS decided on WLAN, with repeater in the workshop via the mains!! 😉
The pissibolloties are endless these days, if you have the courage to use them! 😎

Good stuff Wayne, 👍 but showing your age again! Who else remembers Dolly!? 😉
2D CAD I'm no stranger to, for me the challenge (at 65!) is moving on to 3D 😲
From what you (and Dave M) say I'm glad my printer was delivered 95% assembled and fully enclosed😊 Still have to clear a corner of the workshop and provide a suitable work station area for it though.
Thinks! Feed it by WLAN, cable or stick??? Questions questions .... !
Gotta go - GF wants an LED lamp repairing 🤔
Cheers Doug 😎

Well, the Dolly Parton reverse bucket is complete, main body is I'm mid print in two halves, it's a bit hard to see on the printer due to the colour of the filament.
The little pilons you can see are auto generated support material to help hold the semicircular port up & stop it sagging while it's being printed.
Please, this isn't a willy waving thread, the printer cost me £160, that's about the same as a table saw...
It's not really hard to use, I just followed tutorials on YouTube. To be honest the hardest thing was to build it, YouTube came to the rescue with an in depth build video.
My next challenge will be to teach myself CAD, now that does look a bit OTT, certainly a young mans game!
Cheers
Wayne

I agree Delboy, 👍👍 I'm also a pensioner since February, but I had the foresight to acquire the tools I wanted to revive my long neglected model building (3D printer, milling machine etc) during the last few years of my working life. Along with various kits, materials, new 2.4Gig RC etc. Miniaturised RC kit for 'Plastic Magic'. Still learning to use all that. 🤔
BUT doesn't make me forget the traditional skills I learned as an impoverished schoolboy then student then junior engineer!
I still often reach for the hand tools! Many things are still best done that way, but if I want several identical parts for a project why not print or machine? Simply uses a different skill set, which can also be learned, just like any traditional skill!
But Delboy don't forget that many people still make their own hulls, and plans, several current build blogs emphasise this. Also good 😉

Colin; was a tenfold repeat necessary to hammer home your point???
You never know if you can until you try, if you don't try you never will 'can'!
Despite all this, Happy modelling everyone and even Happier Sailing.😊
"Immer ein Handbreite Wasser unterm Kiel!"
Cheers Doug 😎

Hmm. Deja vu.
I didn't miss the point. it's more that the point was poorly made. You don't rely on people to do everything for you except make the hull, draw the plans, etc etc. So the original statement was silly.

I too am a pensioner with the obvious limited financial resources. I just have a 3D printer which I use for many purposes. So, you don't have the skills to use one. That's no big deal, I can't dance or juggle but still get along OK.

The thread is about 3D printing and shouldn't be rat-holed because you don't have access to a printer.

Missed the point altogether.

What I was saying is I have no idea how to use either the 3 d printer or the software.

So would rely on other people to do everything for ME just so I could print a part.

So far as other items that I would buy Like hull and materials i would buy with no worries so I may just as well buy any other small parts rather than make them myself on a 3d printer.

Even though I would very much like a 3d printer. IF I cant use one no point in having one.

That's a fair comment but you could say the same about buying a pre-moulded hull or a kit. But, take it to its logical conclusion, do you fabricate your own plywood? Cultivate, and harvest your own balsa wood/bass wood/mahogany?
Be a purist if that's what you want but is it right to sneer at others who find their own path to tread?

This is the sort of stuff I would like to do but would be relying on other people's hard work

To make life easier I've cut the body of the waterjet exactly in half, I'll print it like this so I can easily remove any support material room inside. I'll glue it together later👍
Cheers
Wayne

Here are the pics of the Crackerbox hull as promised & some of the waterjet components. I'm struggling with the surface finish of the impeller but I'll get there, oh & you can see the main housing on the screen in Slic3r in the background.
Cheers
Wayne

Have downloaded Slic, but not yet installed. Have to sort out the bench to make room to operate the printer first!
I also ran across 3DSlash which seems to do much the same. These are the so called 'slicer' programs not designer software, they 'cut' the design into printable layers i.e. slices!
Best thing since sliced bread !? 😉
Cheers Doug 😎

When you download an STL file of your choice from let's say Thingiverse.com you need a programme to manipulate it in & export G code from, I use Slic3r (yep spelt right) it's free to download. in that you can flip, rotate, rescale & cut it into sections. I downloaded a Crackerbox hull, it's 21" long co I cut it into manageable pieces & printed it out over a couple of weekends, I'll post some pics later when I get home, I'm currently on with printing out a water jet drive for it.
Just about any slicing programme will allow you to resize anything you load into it.
I wanted some 1/4 scale hands, I downloaded a STL & printed out one hand to see what the scale was like against my Donald, it looked slightly too big so I reduced the size by 5% & printed out a pair, they look spot on.
Don't be afraid of technology, if you can't find the answer to your problem on YouTube ask on here, someone will help you out.
Cheers
Wayne

But for those of us that are behind technology true modelling skills still prevail.

Sonar is right about computer skills, BUT - for excellent how-to advice and tutorials on all things 'desktop 3D, I can thoroughly recommend this site-
https://all3dp.com
and signing up for their newsletter. Explains the mysteries in plain, sometimes amusing, language, has reviews of latest machines, upgrades, software, filaments etc etc etc. 👍👍
Doug 😎

3 d Printing seems to be the way to go for modelers.

But does require some computer skills.

So for anyone that wants a printer they are totally reliant on what they can find to print on some repository websites.

As for resizing items to fit your project well then one again relys on others to resize the stl files.

So even though I would very much like a 3 d printer I do know I will not be able to use one unless all the files are resized and all I do is push a button.

Hi tech has now left me behind whereas a few years ago i was a little ahead of it..

Hi All, I read 220x220x240mm. and heated bed 0 ~ 110°C. 👍
Scroll further down on the site, much further down!
Happy printing, Doug 😎
PS Some good info on filaments here -
https://all3dp.com/1/3d-printer-filament-types-3d-printing-3d-filament/?omhide=true&utm_source=Newsletter&utm_campaign=f973e55746-Newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_9dffeeddae-f973e55746-366732985
👍

thanks Wayne, looking forward to play with this and already designing a few thing :)

cheers tim

It says it's 220 x 220 x 250 max, it's as big as your going to get for this price.
I'd double check if the bed is heated, it wants to be👍
Cheers
Wayne

Looks very good value, especially with the auto bed levelling.
Check the sellers feedback that they are actually coming from the UK as there are some dodgy sellers out there & you can end up getting stung for import duty.
May also be worth checking Thingiverse that there are plenty of upgrade parts for the Tronxy.
Also worth checking out YouTube for build videos, that's what I used & 6 hours later mine worked at first attempt.
Also check for Feedback's videos!!
Order yourself a 1kg roll of PLA filament of the correct diameter, I'm guessing you'll want 1.75mm.
Enjoy the adventure & if there's any help you need just ask! The only daft questions are the ones you don't ask lol
Cheers
Wayne

Reprap is practically the industry standard for 3D printing.
It doesn't say how large the print volume is, the Ultimaker is around 200 x 200 x 200 mm.
The picture is difficult to read but it doesn't look as if it has a heated build plate in which case, you are going to need an enclosure of some sort to keep drafts out to avoid your prints warping.
You can't argue with the price, though.

thanks Delboy,

thinking off getting on of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2017-Upgraded-Full-Quality-High-Precision-Reprap-Prusa-i3-DIY-3D-Printer-MK8-LCD/132134128256?_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D9d74843f37ec430293dcd579f1a5bc78%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D132134128256&_trkparms=pageci%253A95870dd1-5132-11e7-b0ea-74dbd18015d4%257Cparentrq%253Aa7f2f17a15c0a86676b6ca89fffcd4cb%257Ciid%253A1

know its a clone but

As a post post script regarding your comment concerning printing parts to make the machine better. This is probably the case with most printers in this sort of price range but it's not arduous and, if you design the parts yourself using something like OpenSCAD then you you know that you have really earned that whisky nightcap.

As a post script, Cura allows you to print direct from your PC via a USB cable (supplied with the printer) or to write the GCode to an SD card which slots into the printer and from which you can select the file to print.

I wasn't sure that the Ultimaker original+ is still available but I just checked and it is at 995 Euros.
It comes as a flat-pack with all the necessary pieces and, with mine, a free spool of filament. The frame is made from high quality ply wood and the quality and accuracy of the laser cutting is astonishing although you might need to ease a few of the joints with sand paper for a not too snug fit. I sealed my frame with cellulose dope floor a quick-dry finish.
The electronics and stepper motors are easy to fit as is the setting up of the transmission components although the latter are a bit fiddly.

All in all, it was good fun building the beast.

Printing with it is easy, you download the Cura program which will build your G-Code files from an STL file and allow you to set up the printing parameters for the job.

I've had a few disasters but generally get good results with PLA printed at 205 degrees with a bed temperature of 50 degrees.
I've found PLA from Rigid ink gives the best results but, to be honest, I haven't exactly 'played the field's with filament providers.


One point in favour of Rigid ink is that, once you are on their email distribution list, they will send you hints and tips for printing which is a boon as Ultimaker don't provide a pilot's operating hand book or much further reading on it.

Would I get another one? Probably, yes.

i'm looking to let a 3d printer like that one next week. what do you think to it. i know you have to print some upgrade to make it better.

cheers

I've been using a 3D printer for 18 months now. Very useful for printing things like ship's wheels, bollards, etc.
Thingiverse is a useful resource although, these days, every other design seems to be for a fidget spinner - very yawn inspiring.
I design much of the stuff I print with OpensCAD, an open source (free) application but it helps to have a bit of computer programming experience to use it effectively.

Hi Wayne,

Thanks, for the info on the heated areas of the 3D Printer and temps!
What happened to the video? oops!😊

Ed

Hi Ed, the base heats up to 60 degrees & the print head runs at 200 degrees, there's not enough heat emitted to change the temperature in the room.
As for noise see the attached video, does sound quite loud as the camera was very close but you can't hear it down stairs
Cheers
Wayne

Wayne,
Great to here on the time. what about noise and heat, does it really heat up or is it just a bit of heat?
Ed

Hi Ed,
The item above took about an hour, it's all about size, how solid it is & the speeds you use.
I.e. Using a solid cube as a datum, a hollow cube would take approx 15% of the time & a 50% infil cube would take approx 60% of the time. The skin of all three takes the same amount of time, it's the amount of infill that makes the variation.
Cheers
Wayne