Its great to hear about your progress, but how about uploading some pictures of this hard work of yours. We'd all like to see how things are progressing too (please!).

Dont forget to add some "oiling tubes" to the propshafts, so you can re-lubs them later on, without having to remove the motors to do so, Like the poor person that originally fitted them in my boat, far better off to get this dont whilst you can.

Thanks for the responses. I can get the electronics package out through the opening under the cabin so the deck goes on permanently. The cabin is now complete. That was a ton of work getting all the electrical done and getting the searchlight to work halfway decent. On the home stretch for this model!!!

IR3

battery capacity all depends on what cruising speeds you get up to on the water. I have a single 12v 10 amp/hr battery on mine and with a 50/50 split between steady cruising and some full throttle high speed emergency calls, my battery lasts about 1.5 hrs. I split this in to 3 seperate on water jobs, purely to let the motors cool off between spells on the water, especially on high speed stuff, the motors do get a little warm, even with cooling fans switched on!

I did not want to get involved with cooling coils, having 1 water pipe feed coming in through the hull is more than enough, let alone installing more for coils too.
I do have a pair of 6v batteries I use as backup if I want to stay at the pool longer, but find they dont have as much capacity, even though they are 6v 10 amp/hr units themselves, they dont last as long on the water.

When you do get to the stage of ballasting your boat, make sure all the electrics AND drive servos are in and working, then just try with moving the batteries around first, as you may not need anything "other" than the batteries. I only use the batteries as ballast in mine, as why not use the ballast as an energy source, rather than dead weight by lumps of inaminate zinc [or worst case - lead].

hI guys
about the dusseldorf I would follow the advice about bonding the deck just to be safe from water entering and safe gaurding the electrics I will bee installing mine on a self made ledge on the upper deck just beneth the cabin its a bit messy but once the cabins back on it will look ok
ive got all the switch and sound modual "dont wanna get those wet lol" just got to figure out the battery arrange ments for the cran and anchor now I was going to use the main motor batteries which I have two of @6v each but worried about run time on the model its self any ideas ????? lets me know

I would NOT recommend your suggestion, as this boat is quite fast in the water and does produce a broad bow wave, which can and will swamp the deck, possibly leading to ingress of water in to the hull if not 110% watertight.

I would follow instructions to bond down the main deck area fully, as you will still have access to all you need to. if you simply use silicone sealant to bond the forward fire monitor base plate down, then its easily lifted back up for repair later [if ever needed.

DONT attach any electronice to the lower battery board, keep everything "raised" as a precaution to water ingress.
I found that using a 12v 10 [or 12] amp/hr battery gives ample running time, plus plenty of power for all the accessories.
mine has radar, lights, emergency lights, sound, horn, working monitors, no probs.

If you want to check my refurb out, check the boat build blogs, mines in here!
best of luck, but if you need any more hinst or assistance, get back to me.

gregg.