I hate to say it but we told you so 😁👍

A big thanks to all of you for your advice regarding the finish on the Riva boat I,m building. The wet n dry treatment is amazing so it will be used after each coat of the barque varnish.

Yup that's real GOLD, and I have used for fifty years on real boats as well as models. I rub down with 2500 wet and dry after the final coat has hardened for at least two weeks. Then use a beeswax polish on a slow orbital polisher or by hand. it's really worth the effort. Best of luck Colin.

Hola Alan, it's made in Holland, maybe you can find a Spanish dealer here
http://www.tonkinois.com/gb_algemeen.htm

Asta luego, Doug 😎

Will look it up
Dave

A friend of mine imports what I believe to the finest varnish ever made.

http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.uk

They sell it online, and they did have a stand at Warwick a few years ago. Many folk in the classic car and boat trade swear by it. I have a tin in the garage awaiting use on my 46" Huntsman deck after re-planking.

Hope that helps someone, cheers, Dave W 😊

Hi Alan, just a point that John made, if you have a paint shop in your area that does custom paint finishes, watch them, they consider 30 coats of lacquer only adequate, but the finish soooo deep but 3 weeks to finish a car, bit OTT
Mark

Will try.
The Riva is a beautiful boat to work on

As an afterthought when you have rubbed down with wet and dry used wet wash the paintwork off well allow to dry and then use a lint free cloth to make sure all the old paint dust is gone. Make sure you work over a surface you do not mind being marked since the drips from rubbing down make an excellent paint on an absorbent surface!! ( yes I made the mistake so I KNOW). its a very messy process but well worth the effort.

Not on a Riva! 😉
If you only want 'satin-gloss' leave out the T-Cut, or any other cutting compound / paste. Whatever floats your boat 😉

no argument here about airbrushing BUT if your prepared to spend the time and effort rubbing down I defy you to tell a brush finish from a sprayed one. On a model a high gloss finish looks wrong anyhow ( IMHO).

Hola Alan, not surprising if you dry sand!
Using the wet / washing up liquid technique, BY HAND and with not too much pressure, and a final buffing with a sheepskin pad, I used to achieve finishes on cars you could see your face in 👍 Created a nice little sideline earner for me 😉
I can also strongly recommend spraying (airbrush) several thin coats instead of brushing. This creates an inherently flatter, glossier surface and requires much much less flatting and polishing 😊 Good luck, Doug 😎

That's the finish I get at the moment.The mat look.

Exactly Haverlock👍
wet with washing up liquid between coats is what creates the polishing effect and final gloss. Something I learned the hard way back in my car restoration days. Dry sanding creates more of a 'silk/satin' or worse matt effect. 😎

use 600 wet and dry wet for first few coats then 1200 wet then after last coat wait a few weeks and use something like "T" cut ( used to restore car paint). The wet and dry is better used wet ( with a dash of washing up liquid in the water) since it cuts down on the clogging of the paper.

Hi John.I sand the boat between varnishing with dry wet n dry paper. That's gets it smooth but when I varnish again with boat varnish it looks tired the finish
Alan

Try polishing the varnish once it is good and hard. Use a good polishing compound as used on cars and plenty of water don't use an angle grinder they're too fast and will burn the varnish.You might be able to sort out something using a Dremel type tool, but again not too fast, to get into the smaller spaces on deck etc. it is possible to do it by hand but takes longer.Done properly you get a finish like glass. A lot of car painters rub down wet first with very fine paper then do the polishing. Go to a car painters and watch them and ask them to show you what they use.Really educational. You could learn lots. Cheers John .

Hi Alan, the international paint is a yacht varnish and is available from any chandlers, it definitely is available in Spain. Try around marinas etc
Mark

That one looks best Doug
Thanks
Alan

Hola Alan,
Try Deluxe materials Ezekote or Clearkote.
Here a possible source in Spain.

Montse Martínez (Samarkanda miniaturaS)
08014 - Barcelona
SPAIN
Tel & Fax: (+34) 93.325.44.24
Email: info@samarkandaminiaturas.com
www.samarkandaminiaturas.com

Radio Control, Miniatures, Plastics and Railway

FEWELL BUSINESS, S.L.
Import & Export
Carretera Comarcal 1413 Km. 35,5
08140 Caldes de Montbui, Barcelona
SPAIN
Tel. +34 938 655 830
Fax.: +34 938 655 340
Email: lourdes@fbsl.es
www.fewellbusiness.com

Good luck, Doug 😎

Many thanks.I have put boat varnish on five times but not really shiny despite rubbing down

well you could use a yacht varnish you should be able to source it locally. Polyurethane is hard wearing and can be obtained in high gloss.

Will look on internet for it.Awkward getting items like that here in spain.postage is a fortune to send to here.

I always liked Humbrol Marine varnish. Hard ,Shiny, and fuel proof. Very clear. I don't know if their latest is as good .

Hi Alan, the international Everdure 2 part epoxy paint is superb, expensive but applied as the instructions it gives a fantastic finish your Riva will look better than the real thing

Mark