As well as the various other models I am playing with, I have begun to strip the white metal fittings from my 'Fireboat'...

My metal fire monitors will not balance atop their bases - so something needs to be done to make the solid end lighter...

...so - I thought I'd make working copies of the solid metal fire monitors - and I've been drawing my own 'alternatives'.

The fittings will be modelled in my time-honoured fashion... from whatever I have in my 'bitsa' boxes !

Balsa sheet, dowels, carbon tubes, carbon and brass rods, paper, card and perhaps also a little modelling clay or epoxy mixed with microballoons - that type of thing.

When I am happy - they will be painted with finishing epoxy - and then painted.

As I am going to 'restore' the model - I can add things as I go.

Purists will likely be unimpressed ( or appalled ! ) - but no matter... they will look 'the same' ( certainly as the boat is passing spectators), and they will be lighter.

I'll then be after some 16th scale sailors for it...

Keven. 😊

Has anybody got a picture of there converted fire monitors so that they work spraying water, I have been right thought the site and my library of pictures for model hydrants that spray I know there a lot out there because a lot of people post that they are after pumps I am trying to find how you bring the pipe out of the back, the two types of full size hydrants use heavy pipes to the stand but the fitting sets sold are very different so that cannot be done so it will have to be via a plastic pipe so any pictures would be great hear are some full size ones

Chris,

wot Dave M said... 8.4v motor on 9.6v 8cell pack, most of mine are only 3300mah packs but perform really well, its that old balance of cost vs. performance....

ÂA£7 motor, ÂA£25 mtronics speed controller, and ÂA£17 battery pack

its low cost useable performance!!!

my fireboat is an over-weight bloater too... I tried to weight it on my 2.5kg kitchen scales 😀

the needle just kept going way past 2.5kg.. and that was without a battery!!!

I run "everything" off the one onboard pack too, my 12v astra water pump is quite happy to squirt water on 9.6v, and a big old resistor drops the voltage for my bright LED search light..

keep it throttled back to 2/3rd power and it will run for 20 minutes

perfect? no! there are loads more powerfull/faster/longer set-ups using fancy outrunners and Lipos, but at a much higher price.

give me a shout if you get stuck

DB

HI again Dave

I'm going to try the Speed 600 & NiCad setup.

I've still possibly got weight problems however, my 34" fireboat weighs around 2.7kg without motor or batteries
The rear cabin roof alone with most fittings but as yet without a Monitor weighs in at 270gm !

Whilst my 30" seaplane tender is only 1.6kg with the motor
( but without batteries ).

We shall see!
Chris

HI Chris
You will need the 8.4 version for a 9.6 v battery. The difference in size between your two boats is minimal so I would expect the use of NiMh/NiCd to dramatically reduce the overall weight compared to the SLA's you are using. Also you will be able to reposition the battery to help the model plane better. I'm assuming here that both model have a similar weight without the battery. My 34" crash tender weighs just over 2kg.
Dave

HI Dave

Do you suggest the 8.4v or 7.2v speed 600 as I see they are both on offer.
I'm a bit wary as I have a Mtroniks Vision 600 motor running in my Adamcraft seaplane tender which performs well on a 7.2v NiCad but that boat is only 30" long and a lot lighter.

Regards
Chris

HI Chris
Get a speed 600, Howes have them on offer at present. Couple with a 9.6v NiMh battery and it will look and sail well. Lead acids are a bit heavy for this size of boat.
Glad to hear you have sorted the fire monitors.
Dave

Thanks Guys for all your help

I'm going for the easy option with the monitors and taking Peter up on his kind offer.
First try in the water today ( see Photo Gallery ) found out that she's a bit bow heavy and that the old VW camper blower motor I was trying isn't really up to the job! so off to trawl through to see what the rest of you have powered the 34" Crash Tender with ( ideally to take 12v supply as I've got 2 x 6v jelly cells in situ. )

Best Wishes
Chris

Chris
glad you liked the video, a bit of fun done in a rush! the possibilities are endless with all this technology at our fingertips.

I built my working moniters out of brass as per "Petes" website, with a mix of my own bits too
soft soldered using my 40 watt Iron and electrical solder, my pump is a vauxhall astra windscreen washer pump bought for ÂA£3 off ebay with an extra pick-up scoop near the prop


D

HI Chris
B&Q supply brass both solid and hollow that might be suitable. Soldering requires an Iron big enough to heat the work, well cleaned (degreased) components and a suitable flux. I should think a 25watt Iron would be suitable for what you need. I use a paste flux, bought from the local pound shop, clean the parts with emery cloth and keep your fingers off once cleaned. I prefer fluxed solder for printed circuit use as you can control where this goes. You will need to hold the parts and wooden clothes pegs are quite good.
If there is a local model engineering society near to you they may be willing to help as what bits you need are likely to be in their spares box. I your lucky you could even have the monitors made for you!
Or you could take up PeterHS93's offer to make you a pair.
I look forward to hearing how you progress.
Best wishes
Dave

HI Dave M

Thanks for your comments. I have looked at Pete Harvey's construction of 1/12th scale monitors on the restoration bit of his website and wondered if I might attempt a smaller version, but I'm a bit hampered by not having an availability of materials locally and also a lack of soldering skills!

Best Wishes
Chris

Thanks dbninja

I'll perhaps try again . I liked the recent video of your 34" fireboat, most Impressive! and the monitors on that look good, are they self fabricated or available from somewher.

Best Wishes
Chris

Chris
I use BBQ lighter fluid to lubricate any aluminium/white metal I am machining or drilling. Keep the speed slow and clear out the drill flutes with frequent applications of the fluid. it helps if you have access to a lathe or vertical drilling machine as this will allow you much better control over the process.
Your model is looking good.
I have used Robbe fittings with some success but I recall reading an article where a working fireboat monitor was constructed from scratch. it may even have been on this site.
If I can locate the source I will let you know the details.
Happy finishing
Dave

chrislang have you got one of the barrels you want to put the pipe in not top badly damaged if so you could PM me and if you send me one Ill make a pair for you in brass or something more suitable
Peter

Chris,

the white metal fittings can be drilled... just very slowly with an old fashioned "hand drill" even then you will have to clear the flutes of the drill bit every couple of turns, white metal has the same molecular structure as mild chedder cheese 😀

having the drill bit hooked up to any form of motor is a no-no

your fireboat is looking good though!

well done

db

HI Peter

I had bought the white metal fittings kit from Model Slipway and thought I would try to convert their static Fire Monitors to working ones so tried to drill out the nozzle on the casting to put a brass pipe through but it obviously had a very low melting point as it started to collapse and melt. I then thought I'd better try to find a plan B.

Regards
Chris

what has melted ? I may be able to help

Peter