Overall I would go for the silicone clear grease. it isn't actually clear but greyish appearance en mass but seems clear when spread thinly.I repeat that WD40 does not contain any silicone and never has done. it is not a lubricant but a release fluid and a moisture dispersant. it works well in conjunction with a light oil. Sewing machine oil is ideal. Very low drag factor and good corrosion resistance.3 in 1 as good second choice for the mixture. Believe me from experience
Overall I would go for the silicone clear grease. it isn't actually clear but greyish appearance en mass but seems clear when spread thinly.I repeat that WD40 does not contain any silicone and never has done. it is not a lubricant but a release fluid and a moisture dispersant. it works well in conjunction with a light oil. Sewing machine oil is ideal. Very low drag factor and good corrosion resistance.3 in 1 as good second choice for the mixture. Believe me from experience
I would beware of using Moly Dis grease too as if used in ball/roller bearings it is TOO SLIPPERY which promotes sliding instead of rotating. This in it's turn promotes early and excessive wear necessitating early bearing replacement😆.We found this to our cost in our work shop.😭
I would beware of using Moly Dis grease too as if used in ball/roller bearings it is TOO SLIPPERY which promotes sliding instead of rotating. This in it's turn promotes early and excessive wear necessitating early bearing replacement😆.We found this to our cost in our work shop.😭
Typing error 😲 happens to everyone now & again.😉
Just wanted to dispel any confusion amongst the newbies.
Cheers Doug 😎
Oops! Wrong answer Roy 🤔
Correct is: NOT if it is one of the type identified as "totally maintenance-free and watertight". All others need lubricating.
Cheers Doug 😎
Oops! Wrong answer Roy 🤔
Correct is: NOT if it is one of the type identified as "totally maintenance-free and watertight". All others need lubricating.
Cheers Doug 😎
Young at heart 😉 Slightly older in other places.😊 Cheers Doug
Hi. I have always used molybnedenum disuphide grease made up to a thin creamy consistency with "3 in 1 oil" or similar. This has worked well on fast electrics, fast scale boats etc.
Hi. I have always used molybnedenum disuphide grease made up to a thin creamy consistency with "3 in 1 oil" or similar. This has worked well on fast electrics, fast scale boats etc.
Hi Dave,
I guess I have not run my models long enough yet since I have had no wear in either shafts, bearings or seals. I did have one seal in a Raboesch assembly, in a twin shaft model, which didn't leak but seemed to be deteriorating. Raboesch supplied a replacement free of charge. I had used Goop adhesive to attach the seal/bearing cap so it was a 5 minute job to soften the adhesive with a heat gun and fit the replacement.
Roy
Hi Dave,
I guess I have not run my models long enough yet since I have had no wear in either shafts, bearings or seals. I did have one seal in a Raboesch assembly, in a twin shaft model, which didn't leak but seemed to be deteriorating. Raboesch supplied a replacement free of charge. I had used Goop adhesive to attach the seal/bearing cap so it was a 5 minute job to soften the adhesive with a heat gun and fit the replacement.
Roy
Hi Roy
I agree well made prop shafts such as supplied by Raboesch are excellent.
Personally I make my own to scale and length as I have the materials and lathes with which to fabricate them.
My experience over many years is that over time the bearings and shafts wear and will require replacing at some time. I have used oiling tubes and stuffing boxes for best results, the latter make small leak repairs simple, but if the prop end bearing has worn it needs replacing.
Our last club sailing waters were saline and I had to replace the bearings in all the models I sailed there. I used to wash the model hulls after every sail but it didn't help. I use a thick oil in the tubes.
Hi Roy
I agree well made prop shafts such as supplied by Raboesch are excellent.
Personally I make my own to scale and length as I have the materials and lathes with which to fabricate them.
My experience over many years is that over time the bearings and shafts wear and will require replacing at some time. I have used oiling tubes and stuffing boxes for best results, the latter make small leak repairs simple, but if the prop end bearing has worn it needs replacing.
Our last club sailing waters were saline and I had to replace the bearings in all the models I sailed there. I used to wash the model hulls after every sail but it didn't help. I use a thick oil in the tubes.
Every time I see a post about lubricating a prop shaft I wonder why more people don't used sealed prop shafts, such as those made by Raboesch and others. it's clearly not an option if your model has the prop shaft already in place but for new construction it's a case of 'fit and forget'. I have not used anything else, ever. is the extra cost the only disincentive to their universal adoption?
Roy
Every time I see a post about lubricating a prop shaft I wonder why more people don't used sealed prop shafts, such as those made by Raboesch and others. it's clearly not an option if your model has the prop shaft already in place but for new construction it's a case of 'fit and forget'. I have not used anything else, ever. is the extra cost the only disincentive to their universal adoption?
Roy
Please ,please,please DO NOT use copaslip or any other grease containing metal particles .It promotes wear on bearing surfaces and in bearing races. it is meant to be used as a non seize assembly grease, not for faces rubbing against each other. When it first came out I was in the motor trade and we like lots of other workshops thought it would be great for things like clutch release bearings. However we found to our cost that it actually promoted wear and we had to dismantle the thing and clean off the Copaslip from everywhere and replace both the bush in the shaft end the bearing and the clutch .A notice in big letters was put up on the grease cabinet.DO NOT USE GREASE CONTAINING METAL PARTICLES ON MOVING PARTS> IF YOU DO YOU BEAR THE COST OF LABOUR, PARTS,etc TO RECTIFY ANY DAMAGE resulting from this. Chief Engineer .👍😱 I would use the very soft water resisting white grease and oil.Grease nipple each end and oiler in the middle. A little grease each end and a dribble of oil in the middle.Only a little of each.
Please ,please,please DO NOT use copaslip or any other grease containing metal particles .It promotes wear on bearing surfaces and in bearing races. it is meant to be used as a non seize assembly grease, not for faces rubbing against each other. When it first came out I was in the motor trade and we like lots of other workshops thought it would be great for things like clutch release bearings. However we found to our cost that it actually promoted wear and we had to dismantle the thing and clean off the Copaslip from everywhere and replace both the bush in the shaft end the bearing and the clutch .A notice in big letters was put up on the grease cabinet.DO NOT USE GREASE CONTAINING METAL PARTICLES ON MOVING PARTS> IF YOU DO YOU BEAR THE COST OF LABOUR, PARTS,etc TO RECTIFY ANY DAMAGE resulting from this. Chief Engineer .👍😱 I would use the very soft water resisting white grease and oil.Grease nipple each end and oiler in the middle. A little grease each end and a dribble of oil in the middle.Only a little of each.
I would add that it is important that you also have a thrust washer at each end of the propshaft. We used to use Rizla cigarette papers to gauge the clearance.
I would add that it is important that you also have a thrust washer at each end of the propshaft. We used to use Rizla cigarette papers to gauge the clearance.
Hi Bryan
Best way to remove the propshaft is to undo the universal joint at the top then slide the shaft out through the stern tube . Sometimes this may be difficult if the rudder gets in the way.
If you remove the prop there is a good chance you can extract the shaft without too much difficulty but be careful not to bend the shaft.
Referring to the latter it is advisable to remove the rudder but on some occasions I have bent the rudder slightly though there is an element of risk in this as the rudder has to be realigned.
When reassembling the shaft and universal coupling check that after fitting the prop there is adequate clearance between the prop hub and the stern tube and the same with the coupling so the assembly can rotate freely without rubbing against the tube .
Regards Boaty😊
Best way to remove the propshaft is to undo the universal joint at the top then slide the shaft out through the stern tube . Sometimes this may be difficult if the rudder gets in the way.
If you remove the prop there is a good chance you can extract the shaft without too much difficulty but be careful not to bend the shaft.
Referring to the latter it is advisable to remove the rudder but on some occasions I have bent the rudder slightly though there is an element of risk in this as the rudder has to be realigned.
When reassembling the shaft and universal coupling check that after fitting the prop there is adequate clearance between the prop hub and the stern tube and the same with the coupling so the assembly can rotate freely without rubbing against the tube .
Hi Andy
I use Dynamite Marine grease both on my fast electric and scale boats.
You can purchase this from Wheelspin Models and you can also buy a grease gun from them as well😋. it is brilliant for whatever boat you own and with the gun you can really lubricate the whole propshaft.
Boaty
I use Dynamite Marine grease both on my fast electric and scale boats.
You can purchase this from Wheelspin Models and you can also buy a grease gun from them as well😋. it is brilliant for whatever boat you own and with the gun you can really lubricate the whole propshaft.
I tried a few different grades of oil and found that if the inside end of the prop tube is close to or below the waterline then some water always seemed to enter the boat, as well as leaving an oil slick in the lake. You also need an oiler tube.
Light grade marine grease - whilst offering some friction initially soon eases off on the friction (via a quick run-in), whilst offering a good seal. I have ships, patrol boats and submarines and they all have marine grease. I re-grease the prop tubes/shafts once a year for the frequently used models and others once every few years.
I also tried Lithium grease, but it always remains sticky and so does the friction load. in most cases this is great grease except for prop shafts.
Choose what ever you are happy with.
I tried a few different grades of oil and found that if the inside end of the prop tube is close to or below the waterline then some water always seemed to enter the boat, as well as leaving an oil slick in the lake. You also need an oiler tube.
Light grade marine grease - whilst offering some friction initially soon eases off on the friction (via a quick run-in), whilst offering a good seal. I have ships, patrol boats and submarines and they all have marine grease. I re-grease the prop tubes/shafts once a year for the frequently used models and others once every few years.
I also tried Lithium grease, but it always remains sticky and so does the friction load. in most cases this is great grease except for prop shafts.
I've always used my own mixture in my boats and never had any problems
Use a mix of silicone, copper slip mixed with a little castrol gtx to make the mix like creamy consistency as found like most of you know that the grease gets thrown to walls of the shafts tube and just sits there not doing anything to lube the shafts
I've always used my own mixture in my boats and never had any problems
Use a mix of silicone, copper slip mixed with a little castrol gtx to make the mix like creamy consistency as found like most of you know that the grease gets thrown to walls of the shafts tube and just sits there not doing anything to lube the shafts
Former tug nut now switched to sail because of health
Hi All
I was told to use plumber's tap silicon grease, which I have used for 3 years and only regreased once each year.
I have added oiler/grease tubes to my rudders as well.
Also you can get a silicon spray like WD40, but, with the silicon spray it crawls up the shaft.
With the shaft out and the tube cleaned out(pipe cleaner works well for this) a shot of silicon grease in each end of the tube(only small amount).
Hold your finger over the other end and install the shaft, this stops the grease coming out as the shaft comes through.
A shot of silicon spray down the oiler tube and seal silicon fuel tube sealed off at one end.
Canabus
Hi All
I was told to use plumber's tap silicon grease, which I have used for 3 years and only regreased once each year.
I have added oiler/grease tubes to my rudders as well.
Also you can get a silicon spray like WD40, but, with the silicon spray it crawls up the shaft.
With the shaft out and the tube cleaned out(pipe cleaner works well for this) a shot of silicon grease in each end of the tube(only small amount).
Hold your finger over the other end and install the shaft, this stops the grease coming out as the shaft comes through.
A shot of silicon spray down the oiler tube and seal silicon fuel tube sealed off at one end.
Canabus
Oil is better, the grease causes drag on the shaft, (guess how i found out!!!) fit an oil tube to the outer shaft and dribble oil in before and after each outing.
Mark
Oil is better, the grease causes drag on the shaft, (guess how i found out!!!) fit an oil tube to the outer shaft and dribble oil in before and after each outing.
What grease does one use in prop shafts ?
Years ago (30+), I used special silicon grease (could get it from work, when it date expired - no I never understood that, but it did mean that I had a ready supply of 'out of date').
Years ago (30+), I used special silicon grease (could get it from work, when it date expired - no I never understood that, but it did mean that I had a ready supply of 'out of date').
