Spraying/hand painting
Spraying/hand painting
Spraying/hand painting
If you are intending to use this Full PPE equipment should be worn and only use in a well ventilated area.
Personally I use paintstrippers, scapers and a hot air paint stripper to clean wooden hulls back to bare wood. This allows me to see any damage caused by fuels used with IC engines.
I agree its messy, takes time and is best done outside, but you do end up with a solid hull with no hidden soft spots.
I agree with Jarvo's use of Clear Cote either in gloss or semi matt finish.
If the air temp is much below 20 deg most rattle cans will not give a good finish and runs will be difficult to avoid.
Dave
Spraying/hand painting
Cheers Colin.
COLIN.
Spraying/hand painting
Mark
Spraying/hand painting
It may be available in an aerosol. Please check it out as I find it saves hours of stropping on my old boats, my newest being about 1980, and oldest from 1918. Hope this helps, Colin.
COLIN.
Spraying/hand painting
Spraying/hand painting
Mark
Spraying/hand painting
However, it was not the easiest paint to work with and only got a good finish when everything was stripped down to the bare wood. I applied sanding sealer followed by Halfords primer then built up several coats of acrylic , leaving 3 hours between coats. When finished I used rubbing compound to get a good gloss.
I am sure there must be better methods of painting model boats especially vintage ones that have already had coats of paint in the past.😁
Spraying/hand painting
Mark
Spraying/hand painting
Spraying/hand painting
Hope this is helpful, cheers Colin.
COLIN.
Spraying/hand painting
Spraying/hand painting
Cheer's marky
Spraying/hand painting
A good idea is to try and make a shelter around the boat and wet it before giving it the final cost of a good quality gloss paint.
It really is just a matter of perseverance and you should have a great finish.
Good luck!
Peter581
Spraying/hand painting
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