Ron the tug looks good on the water nice job.
Rick

Got it on the pond today, after three days of rain it is is pretty murky, but the tug boat did very well giving Pluto an ride on the water.

Thanks Doug.Looks nice on the water Ron
Martin looks like Ron has big blue on steroid's 😁
Cheers Marky👍

Must be the sub-equatorial Coriolis effect Bill.
Makes the electrons go round the other way!😁😂
😎

thanks!!!

Thanks Doug.
Can open your version.
Great boat
Bill👍

Hi All,
The complete trials video from Ron in Canada - via South Africa!
Test #1 🤞
😎
It woiks😊

Very nice Ron.
You have done a good job on her.

I do like your Test facility, much bigger than my Big Blue LOL!!

Martin555.

I tried opening this on my mobile and got to the normal screen that normally shows the video.

It would not open there however in the top left corner there is a blue arrow that gives the option to download.

Did this however phone is not able to play mpg4 files. Should work on my computer.

#4

next #3

Hi Ron.
Yep know that,never have a problem with media files but defo can’t open this one.
Regards Bill👍

Another video. There will be 4 total fingers crossed

See the little drop down icon upper left corner? Click on it.

Hi Ron.
Looks good on the water looking at the stills,but unless it’s me I can’t open the media file which I don’t normally have a problem with ☹️
Regards Bill

Sea Trials were done earlier this week. Very pleased!

Hi Ron,
I am looking forward to seeing her sea trials.

Martin555.

I like this website! You can post a building issue and get advice from people in the know.
I did the following. Left the prop assembly alone, but removed material from the rudder. It is secured top and bottom; did a test several times, filing spots where the rudder and prop touched, so it should be fine for sea trials.

Thanks to all who participated, some on line answering questions and others via personal emails.

Hi Ron - alternatively to JBs suggestion you could try two other things . Use a 4mm Brass nut (assuming its a 4mm shaft) then file that to almost washer size - but ensure there's still a little bit of thread left - that will still work as a locknut - use a file BOTH sides to ensure that - there is also some stuff out there ( non-permanent threadlock ) which you can use in addition to keep the prop from falling off. Secondly file away the front face of the rear propshaft bearing - again to washer thickness - just enough to keep it from pushing into the tube . They are usually a very tight tapered fit in any event and unlikely to go further into the tube even if you filed of a little too much - assuming its a bronze/brass bearing. a nylon one can also be filed - but not as thin as metal.
From experience I have removed the tip of a prop altogether for a similar reason (look at outboards) and its still a very fast little boat without much noticeable cavitation . However in this case agree with you that the blades themselves might pose a problem . I would personally remove the tip completely - leaving a flat face on the boss.
Hope that helps

Exactly my thoughts JB👍
Ron: screw the prop on nice and tight using Loctite or similar for security.
Fit a thrust washer as JB says and a collet and thrust washer at the inboard end.
See attached pic of the collet fitting on my Sea Scout.
For extra 'wiggle room' you can take a little off the prop hub, but take it easy.
You don't want to expose the end of the shaft!😮
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS Somehow I managed to boob with the measurements and had to add some extra packing washers as shims!🤔 Oh well, at least it works😉

Hi Ron, can you remove the nut in front of the prop and fit a small teflon (or similar) washer (.5mm) in its' place, then fit a collar to the motor end of the shaft to hold the shaft in place. That would probably gain you about 3mm by the looks of it. If it does, then you could Loctite the prop on (it should never fall off due to the rudder being close to it) You will still be able to remove the prop later if needs be by dropping the rudder and removing the shaft, (probably never have to once it's all running well)
JB

Houston, we have a problem...the new brass prop is installed, universal too, but when putting the rudder back in place the new prop’s bulb is sticking out too much.

Can I shave off some of that bulb to give the rudder some clearance? As it is those prop blades will be fairly close too.

Might have a look at x7, thanks Peter.
JB

Hi JB - Corel X7 works fine with 8.1 . I use X3 for the Lasers old software's sake. Better half has X7 - student/home version is cheap too. (When transferring to me simply saves as version X3)
As you say very easy with Corel - also used the laser to cut larger letters/window frames etc from very thin "stick on" Rowmark (metallic type for frames)

Sounds good to me Ron👍
Hi Doug, This is an easy way to print white lettering using that method, (using Windows 'Paint' and white decal paper). Being that you can't see white lettering on the screen this method allows you to see what you are doing. 'Paint' is a bit crude and unfortunately does not allow you to 'cant' or bend letters to go round a curved surface (such as the tugs' stern where you need a curved decal) It also can leave jagged edges when blown up, which need manually tidying with some of the other tools.

Re your problem with the navy blue, you could have scanned a good sample of the colour, copied it to paint, and used the 'colour picker' and 'fill' tools to do your background (a small colour adjustment might be needed using the 'edit colours' tool) I did that with the BD6 which is genuine 'Charger Orange' metalic (a la Dukes of Hazzard - and the original colour of the planes side flash,) which turned out pretty close.

I used Corel Draw years ago which was very good (you could grab a word and twist it or bend it round in circles. Unfortunately it does not work on windows 8.1. There are much better drawing programs around today which would be great for decal making (note to self, - get one!) By the way, use the transparent selector to move things without bringing the background with them, (when moving something from outside the drawing onto the drawing)
JB

Ron - forgot there is one other method - some print/signage shops have vinyl cutters - they can cut lettering very accurately (surprisingly small too) from stick on vinyl and supply it with the "frame" to accurately position it. Same sort of stuff supplied for pin striping cars & making "boot top" lines on MB hulls. Seems to last ok - mine still going after 35 years........

Slaters are still in business, on the web and they will send it out to you

https://www.slatersplastikard.com/assets/pdfs/AlphabetFlyer.pdf
Or
http://www.pcbsupplies.com/dry-transfer-lettering-white-letters-by-letraset

Looking probable

Ron - there used to be plastic lettering on the market called Slaters Plasticard - really meant for railway modelling - each letter is stuck on seperately and can be painted any colour you like . Came in various sizes - some quite large . Still have some left in my "stock" - ideal for plastic models too.......
Alternatively there is still some Letraset type lettering around - now produced by the Chinese of course - seen it quite recently at the local Stationers . So Stationery/Office Goods/Art shop might well have some. Quite a few versions , colour & sizes.
Also lettering for kiddies in stick on plastic from some toy shops - many varieties in that too.
Also seen some glossy stick on "metallic" lettering for decorative labels etc from the local Stationers/Art shop - easlly painted as they are card based.

Sounds good to me Ron👍
Thinks! If you use white decal paper 'all you have to do'🙄 is match your print background colour to the hull colour!
That's what I couldn't manage with the royal blue hull of my Sea Scout 🤔
But with a black hull it should be a bit easier.
Let us know how you get on.🤞
Cheers and G'night from Munich, Doug 😎

I can do that! I have Word, an inkjet printer, 2017 AutoCadLt and patience...🤪

Er PPS,
Forgot to mention Ron 😌-
You will need to first paint a block of white on the hull where you want to apply the decal prepared as described in my previous post!
Uvverwise you'd end up wiv black on black! Oops 😁
Cheers, Doug 😎

PS Ron,
There is possibly one way to get the white on hull colour - with luck!
And that is to use the decal paper and prepare your print file with 'white' letters and a background colour to match your hull colour.
With your black hull that should work.
With my Royal Blue hull I gave up trying to match the colour after about ten attempts😭 That's when I switched to yellow lettering 😉
Bon chance mon ami!🤞
Ciao, Doug 😎

Hi Ron, Pete,
"how do you get an inkjet of laser printer, to print White ink"
That is the perennial problem 🤔
I've struggled with that as well, and really there ain't no satisfactory solution.
The basic answer is 'You can't!'
One of the drawbacks of digital technology I'm afraid.
Printers are designed principally to put text and images onto white paper.
Thus printing white digitally means effectively printing nothing🤔
RGB code 255,255,255. Hex code #FFFFFF. I.e. Nuffink!
Even the advent of transparent OHP film etc didn't change that cos it was already ingrained in the basic printer drivers☹️
It's also a question of basic physics,
You can make white light by mixing all the other colours, or basically red, green and blue. RGB - sound familiar?
But dat don't woik with paint or printing I'm afraid😭
There ain't no combination of the basic printer colours of black, cyan, magenta and yellow (or any artist's colours) that makes white! Cos painting / printing is a filtering process as opposed to the mixing process with light.

Trying to cut an outline from a white decal sheet is most likely doomed to failure.
Hat off if you manage it! If you can do it you might as well use Martin's tape stencil cutting technique, probably have more luck.🤞
Eventually I admitted defeat and used very bright yellow instead.
Probably more visible on the pond anyway.😁
(That's my excuse and I'm stuck with it!😔)
Sorry😌
Cheers, Doug 😎

You have just about covered it all Doug, only problem I can see, is the one I have trouble with, and that is how do you get a inkjet of laser printer, to print White ink?
You can buy white decal sheet, then print an outline
of text, but you will still need to cut out what you need, there is no easy way to get print whit text or numbers.👎


Cheers, Pete

Hi Ron,
Saw your query, but thought I'd take a back seat and see what others suggested before sticking my ubiquitous oar in!🙄
"Anyone know how to create lettering ....." Yes thanks Ron 😁
Seriously though folks ( moi? grave? 😂🤣)
Martin's method is great for really large lettering, like the pennant number on the hull of my 1/72 H class destroyer. Like I did 50 years ago using 2" masking tape. BUT!
For what you want to do it depends on;
- excellent eyesight,
- very sharp and pointed scalpels,
- and probably 50 years experience of graphic arts and architect model building, pre 'everything computerised'. (I did technical drawing back then😁)
Yes it CAN be done that way (use non-stretchy tape😉) given above prerequisites!
Looking at your response I read from that that you have a PC with some kind of text or graphics programme installed. And a printer; either laser or ink jet.
Those are the prerequisites for my preferred method, especially for small scale models. Which most of mine are; 1/35 to 1/350.
Quite simple! 😊
Basically I use Word for Windows to create the text, in any colour and text style you want. If it ain't on your PC Google Text Fonts until you find it!
When you are happy with the text print it on a 'Decal sheet'. See pic.
So called Water transfer paper. Google it. I bought mine from a UK supplier found on Ebay.
I usually do several test prints on plain paper until I'm really happy with the text, size and format.
When the print is dry you apply it to the model just like the plastic kit we used to build (remember the Airfix / Aurora etc days of our childhood? Tempus fugit!😮🤔)
Blot it with a tissue and when really dry fix it with a blast of matt or gloss varnish as takes your fancy 👍
Hope this helps, and that you are suitably equipped,
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS "next find the right size font"
You only need to use a font that looks like the original.
In Word, or similar text / graphic Apps, you can alter the size to suit what you want to do. 👍

If I do not think I could hand paint these letters, how am I going to make a stencil?
First, use the word processor, next find the right size font, then print it out. cover font with tape, next take a sharp razor knife and cut each letter out! Now, place on boat hull and cover unwanted areas to protect from over spray.

Fine on a flat surface, but not on the slanted stern plate that is also curved...

Any other ideas???

Very nice little model. I could not see how good this was going to look at the start, but now, really nice.😀

You could try and cut the lettering out of some tape to make a stencil and spray paint through the tape stencil.

Martin555.

Anyone know how to create lettering for placing the vessel’s name on the model?

That's looking great, good likeness of the original

A very nice little Tug Ron.
Well done.
Looking forward to the her on the water.

Martin555.

Added more details. Made the little skiff, tie downs and such

Really nice little tug,you'll hope the thaw comes round quickly ,onto the next project😁
Cheers Marky

Hi Ron,
That is a super little Tug.
I am looking forward to seeing her on the water.
You have done an excellent job.
Well done.

Martin555.

Navigation lights working! Hand Railings are on and Safety Rings in place. Twin horns too. Waiting for the pilot wheelhouse furnishings and a 4 bladed prop.

Then, the long awaited Spring Thaw 😃

Windows are in wheelhouse; Navigation lights, and painted roof to match photo of the tugboat in a winter snow fall.

Painted wheelhouse and deck bollards.

No, I have not costed out the build. I was given the motor and gears, the birch ply, the plastic sign material sheets, much of the balsa was from model plane days. Had to buy the Tightbond III and CA glues and paint.

Working on the wheelhouse sun shade.

Great Ron, what a difference the paint makes, have you costed the build yet? I bet you couldn't get a kit
for the outlay you have had, nor the fun!😁


Cheers, Pete