Hi! guys
when I am using a spray can, I also have a hand held hairdryer in the other hand and follow up the spray Immediately with the hair dryer in a sweeping action. this dries it out quickly avoiding flies and dust to settle on it. Don't get the hairdryer too close!!

HI Guys

This is getting a bit heated!!!!! consider what the cans are abused with in the shed or garage, sometimes the cans can get V hot to the touch, also the effect on the paint inside, warm for a low viscosity it is easy to spray with, but it also drys very fast possibly in the air before it hits the model, giving a rough dull finnish. I am told that UNDAMAGED / UNDENTED cans can take about 60 - 70 psi, but they start to look like a ball by them. in short warm means luke to hand warm, if you can't comfortably put your hand in the water its TO HOT.
Elf an Safty is for us to encompass blow yourself up not anyone else

Mark

If the manufacturer of pressurised pain cans [or any other can for that matter] thought that heating the can by any means was a good idea, they would do so on the label.
Someone, somewhere will always take an idea to the extreme, so you have to try to think of this eventuality, so when making suggestions, you have to think first and think safety for all concerned.
Would you like to read in the press that someone had received severe facial burns from a paint can exploding?

not trying to sound nasty, but yes the forum is here to help and assist, but we have to consider peoples safety too at all times, and if a process is not clearly logged, it can lead to ambiguity of instruction and possible harm, which none of us want.
So that's why I try to guide people to clarify these things, so no one does get hurt.

Gregg - have you (or anybody else) had any real experiences of cans exploding ? ❓

I always put mine in very hot / near boiling point water - have done for years without any problems

Once you've given them a good shake, and warmed them up, it makes a real difference to the finish achievable
and also allows full usage of the contents of the can, I.e. minimum wastage.

BTW I must apologize : I haven't been following this forum much recently -
I will try to come back and answer/thank recent posters.

Richard

PLEASE be careful if following the suggestion of warming a pressurised pain container, if the water is too hot, it can cause a sudden rise in pressure and the can explode!

Kindly allow paint cans to warm gently to room temperature where possible.


Andy K, please note that unless you state a specific temperature for the "hot water", someone could potentially use boiling water straight from a kettle with dangerous results, THINK SAFETY.

I find if you warm the can first helps I do this by placing it in a cup of hot water for 5 mins

Richald

This is a problem with 'rattle cans' the way I found is to shake the can at the end of each stroke, this keeps the flakes stirred up, don't overlap your wet edge as this will cover the previous pass

Mark

The main problem spraying metallics is that the 'flakes' of aluminium that give the 'look' have to lie all in the same plane as the paint hardens, otherwise you'll get the varied sheen density. Not an easy one to fix. I'd stick with the airbrush as that gives more control of the 'wet edge' during spraying. Best of luck whatever!!

HI Richard
Metallic is and always has been a pain. 😟 in my experience rattle cans have little or no control over the paint dispensed during the spray process.
As you have an airbrush you will know how to spray paint. I would be interested to hear the result if you do use the airbrush. Good luck 😀

It sounds like you are holding the can in one place too long and over coating it.

try as suggested, "lighter" coats on, but keep the spray can moving, so you press the nozzle down BEFORE you start on the item to be painted and you keep it pressed down untill you have passed the end of it too.
DON't try to stop/start actually on the item, or you will get uneven paint coating.
take it in even spray lines, nice light coats, almost to the point of it going on "dry", as don't forget it will become a proper mettallic once the clear laquer is painted on,...........once the base colour has fully dried, even in this hot weather, kindly leave it a good 3 days before applying the clear cote, or the paint may craze later as the thinners from the base paint creeps through.

HI Richard
I have not sprayed a boat hull with metallic paint ,but I have done a few aircraft.
I found I needed several very thin coats to get an even metallic effect.
Chris