To do what samc needs to he needs no more than a cheapo Chinky bristle brush, epoxy (ideally, but other runny glues are available, like aliphatic resin) and a few clamps, which can be had in Poundshops.

Martin

Hi,
Those of us with a relatively well equipped workshop tend to forget that not everyone is in that happy position. I started out using a coping saw to cut frames and with the advent of Liteply, which I tend to use exclusively these days, it is pretty easy work.
I have a friend who still does his modelling at the kitchen table and turns out very fine work. It reminds me that I gave up smoking when I first got married 45 years ago- I had £1 a week spare- smoking or modelling! No contest. A band saw was the best purchase I ever made- use it every time I'm in my workshop.
Ian

Dipping's OK, but uses a lot of expensive epoxy. I would say brush it and encourage it into the delaminations, then flatten it with a good heavy weight like Doug's car battery or whatever you have, otherwise the delaminated frame/component will have re-glued, but will also have stayed fatter due to not being squashed to its original thickness, which will obviously affect the build. Once the epoxy sets, you won't get it back to being its original size.
If you don't have a scroll saw, a hand fret saw is quicker than you might imagine. Let the saw draw itself in, don't force it. It will cut surprisingly quickly. Better thana scroll sdaw and much quicker and cheaper is a second hand band saw with a blade off ebay. I got mine from a Sunday market (a choice of 4) for £12 and a selection of 5 new blades for £13. Still on the first one! Just this minute used it to cut a Victorian tiller from 90 year old Honduras mahogany for my Vanity model.

Good luck.

Martin

Hi
and thanks to you"al again, for your ideas... was thinking of the epoxy or urethane. i could dip the parts in the urethane and then let them drip, then dry.
I have tried my hand at some cutting new parts from the prints. I'm not to good at it. i don't have a electric scroll saw, do try with a jig saw i made a jig for it, and use that as a scroll saw (kind of). worked ok but not sure how accurate i'm with making the parts. I guess if i work at it then i will become better.. but for right now time is tight. I have to many hobbies things to do. and home projects ( painting).
also just got a dumas Miss Unlimited, a b-day present, to myself.
If you want to talk about bad plans,, or lack of them this is one, there are not number or letters for half the parts, no part list, no reference to parts on the instructions. Now i know this is an old model. and i thought it would have been updated a little, i could update it even. why didn't dumas do that... ??/
ok back to building boats... ⚡
the pic is of a elco but my father had 1929 richerson, and that is what i would like to build,, someday. i guess i have to get my sawing skill up to par and do a scratch build.
that is what i would like to do... someday..
stay safe out there, in the UK

You could brush epoxy into the parts that have delaminated. You can thin epoxy with denatured alcohol apparently or there is a new water based epoxy made in Holland that soaks in much better, but, as Doug said, put something heavy on top with a thin plastic sheet to avoid sticking and then wait a day. It will all be good as new after that and you can go on to build it. I had to do similar with a few Aerokits models and it worked perfectly. Some were already half built and I had to just put a lot of little spring clamps on to re-laminate the old ply. Now perfect. Ain't nuttn' can't be fixed. I actually prefer a restoration to a new build and I've been a professional modelmaker since I was 16, a little over 50 years ago!
Failing that, I'll have it
Martin

And worth every cent Ian👍
I heartily agree.
😎

Hi,
This is a great looking boat. If I had the kit with most of the parts and a drawing I'd be inclined to draw round them onto new ply and build from there. It seems a shame to go to a lot of effort to build old, delaminated and bent wood into a model. As has been mentioned, you could veneer the bright parts, or laminate from thinner ply and sheet mahogany. Just my sixpennorth.😊

OK no linseed oil, go it, thanks you'all, did not think of the glue would affect it.
thank you guys to stopping me from doing the wrong thing
that is why i did this post,
great help
there is not anything else that might help the old wood is there..???

you i do have the drawing/ prints. in full scale
someone sent them to me. which was a great help.
so i should do the same...
will send them to the plans site,
pic are of old plans,, see they are not in good shape and the plans someone sent me. what a great help they are.

You can purchase Mahogany veneer to replace what has come off. As far as the other pieces like the keel, cut out a new one. I say, give it a go, if it turns out to be too far gone, you will have at least tried.

Try Gator or Gorilla Glue. But be warned very messy use rubber gloves I use latex gloves ( Medical) when I use this type of glue as not even Acetone removes it

I agree Scout👍

Sam! DO NOT SOAK IT IN LINSEED OIL!!😮
Great for cricket bats but if you do that to the kit parts you will never be able to glue it, never mind paint or varnish it!🤔
I would only repair the veneer on parts which can be seen from the outside😉
Would be very unusual to have veneered parts inside the boat anyway. Unnecessary expense in production!
Any other parts in need of repair I would simply skin with 0.5mm ply using a thin waterproof PVA glue. I use an old car battery to keep such things flat while the glue sets. It flattens most things😊

As red says, for the bent keel I would steam or soak it in warm water and put it under the car battery to straighten it out. Worked on some bits I had to straighten on my 55 year old Sea Scout. I put kitchen roll paper over it to help 'suck' the water out and evaporate it. Like blotting paper. Anyone remember that!?

When all the parts are repaired scan or draw round them before you glue it all together.
Then the parts can be reproduced for others who want to have a go at building a piece of model boat history👍
Good, luck🤞
Cheers, Doug 😎

Agreed - best policy is glue it all back together - try aliphatic or waterproof type pva - if you leave it on a flat surface with clingfilm covering you can use books or any other object to weight it down . For the curve wet it a bit and flatten it in the same manner. When it dries you can always reglue if it seperates . Hobby shops do keep veneers for marquetry so you could hopefully replace any missing bits - too far away to give you some of mine.
Please before you do put it all together - there is a site for preserving old boat plans - so would it be possible to scan the parts before you put it together and the plan ? Even if its only lots of little a4 scans - as long as there's a reasonable overlap its no problem to stitch them together. That will save the plan/parts for posterity. I can forward the address to send it too.
If you do find any missing parts - as long as you have the plan it is possible to redraw them . If you need help with that please PM me.

I would think if you soak it with linseed oil you will not get glue to stick can you not just glue the bits back
I know that old plywood from years ago would come apart as the glue dried out some even had woodworm holes in from the trees hope this helps Brian