Have one of these in a 36" Cabin Cruiser Works Great! Just remember to add suppressors👍👍

You're very welcome Mike😊 any other problems just ask.

Cheers, Pete

Thanks Pete

Hi Mike, That would be picture 8 in your list the MFA 500👍

Cheers, Pete

Pete in the pictures with the different motors could you mark the one you are recommending. Thanks Mike

Thanks Pete greatly appreciated. Mike

Hi Mike, Regarding the option of motors you have given, my choice for your boat would be the MFA 500
direct drive motors, I have used these before in many different kind of boats, and found them most satisfactory for all.😊


Cheers, Pete

Cash Please find attached the motors that Harbor Models carries and where I bought the boat. In speaking with Martin I have to get the motor and electronics going while everything is open now and he is suggesting I get this working done before I secure the deck. I also have no idea what other items I need to order. I have also attached what came with with the model. The battery compartments are 20mm high 60mm wide and 135mm long. I need all the other items as well. Coupler etc. I have also attached what the model calls for. I took a screen shot fo the motors which show on my computer let me know if you could see the pictures Thanks as always Mike

I will set my laptop up now and see if I can get you best. Mike

Hi Mike,

PM sent.

Martin555.

I am sure Skye will be fine. I haven't used it in a while but I have it on my computer. I use zoom now for everything but Skype will be fine. Mike

Hi Mike,

I don't know what a zoom call is i assume it is the same sort of thing as Skype.

I could do SkyPe.

Martin555.

Thanks Martin don't want to impose on your time but would you be open to a zoom call. I can set my lab top as I have done before and you can see it in real time and I am sure we could solve it. I can set up a zoom call from here once I get your e mail. I have plenty to do and now waiting to finish the assembly of the upper deck. Thanks for helping me out. Let me know if this could work for you. Best Mike

Hi Mike,
Yes that is what i have been trying to explain.

This would of been the perfect time to use Skype as it is much easer to explain in real time then it is to type and read.

Martin555.

Martin I got on You Tube and found the Trawler. I did a freeze frame from the video and you can see they cut into the hull to accept that square piece on part number 10. Zoom in and you can see what I am referring to. You then use the bondo or stabilit to feather it all in. Let me know your thoughts. Best Mike

Excellent, keep us updated Mike.

Martin555.

Martin just went in and took another look and now understand how part 10 fits. Peter was right about cutting the excess. The only hole you actually have to drill is for the chain to hold the black anchor in place on the bow. Once I cut the hull it should fit better, There is actually a space between the winch and part 10 as you can see in the drawing. Before I do anything I will send one more picture. I definitely could not have done this without this kind of help. Thanks everyone. Best Mike

Thanks very much Pete. You are absolutely right I have not cut the hull yet that will be tomorrow.I have attached a photo of how much has to come off. I am learning these cuts have a big effect on the angles. I rigged the pencil as describe in the instructions to give me the correct line.I then use masking tape to keep me on track. I have also learned even if I have to sand a little latter don't take off to much at first. Best Mike

Hi Mike, Been looking at your problem, and looking at the instructions and your photo's, are you sure you have cut the hull bulwarks down to the correct height?
The way piece 10 fits to the hull front, shows only a small distance to the bulwark, but you seem to have a lot of extra plastic to remove, as Doug mentions, it would be much easier with the plans, hope I have assisted a little.😊

Cheers, Pete

Martin I have attached a picture adding front edge bulwark part 11. and a close up of the model. The question is what type of cut do you make. You can see the angles I am dealing with.It would be nice to find someone who has made this cut. I have seen this model in the UK. I don't want to cut it until I know how you finish the inside and outside of the hull. As always thanks Also so you know I have not finished sanding all these parts you see which will be done. Mike

That is good, so we have finally managed to sort this out LOL!!

One of the biggest problems is understanding the drawings, plans, and instructions. Unfortunately the manufacturers do not spend enough time to make sure that this information is easer to understand.

Martin555.

Martin Part 11 is called front bulwark edge and I see it goes underneath that. It still requires cutting into the hull.

Hi Mike,
Part #10 dose not drop below the deck.
It starts a deck level and goes up to the part #11

Martin555.

Martin Thanks for hanging in there with me. I have attached 3 other shots. Part #10 has to be level with the deck part number 9. Part 10 has to drop down below the deck I think but I have no idea where to cut it. I have seen this model several times on your side of the world with builders far more exsperienced than I. If we could all see how they did it maybe I would understand but I don't. I tired to contact Krick but did not get any response. The first picture I put part 10 on the deck you can see it has to drop down to be level. The second picture I taped part 10 below the deck and on picture 3 I put the deck part 9 on top of 10 so you can see where it would have to go. Best Mike

Hi MIR,

I have spent quite a bit of time today looking at this little problem.

I have taken some snapshots from a video and although it is difficult to see part #10 is at an angle and there is a definite cutout of the hull.

You can zoom in a bit to see what i am trying to say.

So looking at fig4 you can see the light grey angle that part #10 is fitted at.

When this has been done you should have the square bit (shank/chain) at the top at the front.
A slot is then cut down to this part were the anchor shank/chain fits.

I don't know if this makes any sense to you.

Martin555.

Thanks everyone for getting back to me. I have attached another down view of the deck to see Martin if this helps. I have looked at this for hrs. To me part #10 has to remain level to the deck which is part # 9. Part # 10 is where the anchor chain goes through but again I don't want to make the wrong cut when I don't know. See if this detail helps. I have yet to cut the hull excess off around the sides. Everything else is proceeding well thanks to everyone. I am sure there is someone in Europe who has built this boat that may have a simple answer but I am at a loss. Thanks again and let me know if this photo helps. Best Mike

Thank you Doug that has helped a bit.


MIR,

So looking at the instructions it is only the small greyed out part of (#10) that is required.

Martin555.

Hi Martin,
Here are the instructions.
Don't help much I'm afraid, can understand Mike's quandary🤔
Unfortunately the actual plans are not available for download on the Krick site☹️
Looks like the part is more like an anchor chain guide / deck protection.
Don't see any need to cut the hull, Just drill a hole for the chain as you say martin.

I would be tempted to fit it inside the hull on the deck to give the bow some strength and rigidity. Vacform hulls can be rather thin and flimsy!
I certainly would not start cutting into a perfectly sound hull!!
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS Scroll down to page 13 for the English version.

Hi MIR,
I have been studding the photos you have posted and have come to the conclusion (hopefully i am right) that part #10 is used to hold/rest the Anchor shank on (#115.)

Ideally i need to see a deck view of a completed boat, but it looks like it needs to be trimmed to fit the deck as in photo 4 and then when the deck is glued on to the hull a hole could then be drilled through the deck/hull from the inside and then filled to shape after.

Without physical seeing the instructions and parts it is difficult to see how it will fit exactly.

Martin555.

Thanks Cash I have attached the model and it has to be level with the deck. It seems crazy to cut into this hull since that is not where the model is going to get hit it is to high up for that.Best Mike

For the life of me I can’t tell what that part does unless it simulates reinforcing the hull where the anchor sits. It’s pretty high up, so it wouldn’t cause a leak, but I’m thinking if you don’t feel comfortable cutting the hull, just don’t install it.
Always remember. Your boat doesn’t have to be perfect, just straight and leakproof. For someone whohas been away from model building for a while, I think your’e doing pretty darn good, and it’s no insult if you don’t want to install, cut or do a procedure you’re uncomfortable with..just work around it and carry on.
Cash

Martin I have been avoiding cutting into the hull to install part # 10 which is called bow reinforcement piece. I do not want to ruin the model and have studied this for weeks but it is not clear to me. The rest of the model is coming along very well thanks to the help of many. But this cut is out of my pay grade and I do not know how this fits at all. I have taken pictures to try to explain the situation. Part # 9 is the deck that I have yet to cement to the hull . I have to cut the excess around the hull part #1 which I will do in the next few days. It would also seem I would need to use stabilit which I do not have and smooth all of this after the cut is made. Thanks Mike

Ian hope all is well. What I can I use instead of Stabilit. It is only called for a a few places. Best Mike

Doug now that I have switched to acrylic paint which should be arriving this week do I lightly sand in between coats. Howe many coats do you normally put on? Best Mike

Thanks Martin

Hi MIR.

Extreme caution is required when heating this plastic as it melts very easily.
You could experiment on some scrap first.
On small pieces you might get away with using boiling water.
Hold it in the hot water for a while then gently shape it around a former.

Martin555.

Dear Group,

Please see attached photo. I am now building the life jacket holders which you make out of scrap ABS. If you notice on the the top there are hooks you make .Do you heat the ABS to make the bend. Building those little boxes was a bit challenging. The with is 3mm. I made a jig to hold the square in place while I glued. Best Mike

Wish I could get Stabilit Express in SA!☹️☹️

Stabilit Express is an acrylic epoxy. You can get it off eBay, and it’s very good. However, I’ve used both 5 minute and 30 minute epoxies on abs with good results. I generally add a small amount of baby powder to the epoxy as a filler. Also, you need to roughen up the mating surfaces with some sandpaper

Doug the model calls for using a glue for some parts which is only in Europe. It is called Stabilit Express it is a glue that they say to use for example when you are putting the rudder post into the two halves of the rudder so it is packed in. What is Stabilit Express. It maybe an epoxy type cement. Thanks Mike

Thanks

Hi Cash and Mike,
The suppliers you have given are both top notch suppliers. Living in SA their goods always arrive properly packed and what I ordered👍👍

Thanks very much Cash. I actually got the model from Harbor Models. I would like to use those battery holders if I can since they are set up from the beginning for the ballast. Maybe on their website they may give the dimensions of the batteries that fit the boxes which I sent pictures of. I also found Cornwal to be very helpful as well. They carry Krick Models. Someone at Krick e mailed me and said they could send the batteries in the mail and that the charging of them is different here in the states. I have to believe they have the dimensions of those batteries so I can see if there is something here in the US. I have so much work to do before I get to that but wanted to have the model completely open and tested before I put the main deck on. Thank so much for all your help. Best Mike

Mike, when you get ready to order your motor and esc, holler at me here, or pm me. I can help guide you in the right direction, as can many others here.
Now, I’ll tell you one place I get a few things from is Cornwall Model Boats. They’re in the UK, and they have a comprehensive selection of motors, gearboxes, parts, etc. their prices are better than competitive, and unless your ordering something large the shipping is very reasonable. The downside? It takes a couple of weeks to arrive. Another good place is Harbor Models in California. Prices are a little higher, but the service is impeccable, and you get your items pretty quick. Both of the aforementioned retailers are my go-tos for parts and fittings.
Don’t sweat too much over your shaft tube. Just remember that, once you get ready to install it, tack it in place and check your horizontal and vertical alignment, get your motor mounted and shaft installed, check for binding, and if all’s well, epoxy that bad boy down.
When you get to that stage we will be here to help.👍
Cash

Thanks Cash. Don't I need to start to get some of the parts and even purchase the motor so I can see how things fit. I am not sure where I start to find what I sent you that is called for in the model from Krick and I definitely do not want to ruin the model by doing something wrong. I purposely left all this open now so I can work on it with out the main deck on. The angle of the shaft I know is very critical and the angel of the stern hole. Maybe when I get ready to do this do you think a zoom call would be possible I could use the help. My days in the United States Coast Guard and holding an advanced radio license will not help in this section. I should be ok with the wiring but I am lost on what motor to buy and where to buy it and all the servos and controller. I still have a long ways to go before I get to this but it may take time to order. Again thank you all for helping me. Best Mike

Ian,
Thanks for posting this information on the prop align. I use bits of tubing to do my aligns but this kit would make life easier, less searching for the right tube sizes.
Joe

They say Christmas can come early.Go for it .
Rick

Dangit!! That’s a nice tool to have, might have to show that to the Commodore...a little stocking stuffer for Christmas. Can’t ever be too early!!🤣

Just the sort of thing I was thinking of Ian 👍
😎

Mobile Marine make a propalign kit which covers most sizes