Sorry if I clogged up the works, just tried to show how the thing works.
You know what they say-
'Give a man a fish and he can eat for a day,
Teach him how to fish and he can eat for life'
Ciao All, 😎
I'll get back to cooking my Stroganoff now 😋😁
Sorry if I clogged up the works, just tried to show how the thing works.
You know what they say-
'Give a man a fish and he can eat for a day,
Teach him how to fish and he can eat for life'
Ciao All, 😎
I'll get back to cooking my Stroganoff now 😋😁
Young at heart 😉 Slightly older in other places.😊 Cheers Doug
OK Mike. Post in UK seems to be faster than from here😉
I'll go back to sleep.😴
Main thing is you're happy Michael👍
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS just got sidetracked by 'Duel in Atlantic' on TV, Robert Mitchum & Curt Jürgens as USN DE Cap'n and KM U-Boot Cap'n in the S. Atlantic.
Interesting to hear a version where the U-Boat crew speak the right language but the destroyer crew doesn't, instead of the other way round!
OK Mike. Post in UK seems to be faster than from here😉
I'll go back to sleep.😴
Main thing is you're happy Michael👍
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS just got sidetracked by 'Duel in Atlantic' on TV, Robert Mitchum & Curt Jürgens as USN DE Cap'n and KM U-Boot Cap'n in the S. Atlantic.
Interesting to hear a version where the U-Boat crew speak the right language but the destroyer crew doesn't, instead of the other way round!
Young at heart 😉 Slightly older in other places.😊 Cheers Doug
I feel as if I started Word War 3.
Anyway thanks to Graham who has built one for me, and also to all those members who have chipped in with there six pennorth at least its prompted some discussion.
I feel as if I started Word War 3.
Anyway thanks to Graham who has built one for me, and also to all those members who have chipped in with there six pennorth at least its prompted some discussion.
For anyone wanting to make their own LED flasher, here's a circuit based on the NE555 chip and a (poor quality) video showing the flash rate adjustment.
Graham93
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For anyone wanting to make their own LED flasher, here's a circuit based on the NE555 chip and a (poor quality) video showing the flash rate adjustment.
Hello sorry I was guilty as well.
Question, I used to make up 555 circuits and the origibal chips were OK to handle. Are they still the same?
Also when making up the 555 circuits I started to use chip holders just in case there was a problem, I could then easily swap one out.
Regards
Roy
Hi Michael,
If this had been part of a personal Build Blog, which you can later printout as a personal memento, and not just a general Forum thread I would have stepped in sooner and cut the Galloping Ghosts off 'at the pass'.
If they bug you I can still delete those posts if you wish?
That discussion could be moved to and continued in a separate thread.
Cheers, Doug 😎
Hi Michael,
If this had been part of a personal Build Blog, which you can later printout as a personal memento, and not just a general Forum thread I would have stepped in sooner and cut the Galloping Ghosts off 'at the pass'.
If they bug you I can still delete those posts if you wish?
That discussion could be moved to and continued in a separate thread.
Cheers, Doug 😎
Young at heart 😉 Slightly older in other places.😊 Cheers Doug
Hi Michael,
I know you said you wanted to close down this link I would still like add 'my mustard' (Mein Senf dazu geben as my German friends would say😉) and clarify things, with the help of a couple of cct pics.😁
Whereas there are available LEDs with both red and blue built in together with a timer chip flashing the two colours alternately (ca 1 to 1.5 flash rate), I understood that you wish to flash two separate LEDs alternately.
There is a simple way to do this using the Sink and Source capabilities of the 555 timer chip, an 8 pin DIL IC😊
Pic one shows the circuit used to do this. One LED is connected between the 555 output, pin 3, and supply voltage, the other from output to ground. Suitable current limiting resistors also needed as usual.
With this circuit when the 555 output is high (ON) the lower LED will also be ON.
Conversely when the output is LOW the upper LED conducts and is ON.
To drive this circuit On and OFF we need a square-wave input trigger signal on pin 2 of the 555 IC.
This can be provided by the circuit in pic 2 using a second 555.
To make a more compact unit I prefer to use a 556 14 pin DIL chip which contains two independent 555 circuits.
Formula for calculating the values of the timing components for the square-wave R1, R2, C1 is shown in pic 3.
If have made several similar circuits - see pic 4 showing some of my breadboard/stripboard experimental lash-ups😁.
If you like I can knock one up you for you tomorrow and post the results.
If you like what you see PM me your address and I'll make a compact version and send it to you.
I have a good stock of 555/556 chips and LEDs of all shapes and sizes plus stripboard😉
Cheers, Doug 😎
BTW: according to my 'trawling' 20 to 30° is the normal beam angle for 3mm blue flashers (😮)
I found a few with 60° but only red☹️. To get wider angles, 120° to 150°, you have to go to 5mm LEDs.
So my preferred solution would be separate LEDs and the cct described above.
PS With the LEDs with built in flasher circuits you can't 'tune' them cos the flash rate is fixed by the internal chip, which also uses the astable cct as above. You can only connect the voltage supply to the two leads.🤔
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Hi Michael,
I know you said you wanted to close down this link I would still like add 'my mustard' (Mein Senf dazu geben as my German friends would say😉) and clarify things, with the help of a couple of cct pics.😁
Whereas there are available LEDs with both red and blue built in together with a timer chip flashing the two colours alternately (ca 1 to 1.5 flash rate), I understood that you wish to flash two separate LEDs alternately.
There is a simple way to do this using the Sink and Source capabilities of the 555 timer chip, an 8 pin DIL IC😊
Pic one shows the circuit used to do this. One LED is connected between the 555 output, pin 3, and supply voltage, the other from output to ground. Suitable current limiting resistors also needed as usual.
With this circuit when the 555 output is high (ON) the lower LED will also be ON.
Conversely when the output is LOW the upper LED conducts and is ON.
To drive this circuit On and OFF we need a square-wave input trigger signal on pin 2 of the 555 IC.
This can be provided by the circuit in pic 2 using a second 555.
To make a more compact unit I prefer to use a 556 14 pin DIL chip which contains two independent 555 circuits.
Formula for calculating the values of the timing components for the square-wave R1, R2, C1 is shown in pic 3.
If have made several similar circuits - see pic 4 showing some of my breadboard/stripboard experimental lash-ups😁.
If you like I can knock one up you for you tomorrow and post the results.
If you like what you see PM me your address and I'll make a compact version and send it to you.
I have a good stock of 555/556 chips and LEDs of all shapes and sizes plus stripboard😉
Cheers, Doug 😎
BTW: according to my 'trawling' 20 to 30° is the normal beam angle for 3mm blue flashers (😮)
I found a few with 60° but only red☹️. To get wider angles, 120° to 150°, you have to go to 5mm LEDs.
So my preferred solution would be separate LEDs and the cct described above.
PS With the LEDs with built in flasher circuits you can't 'tune' them cos the flash rate is fixed by the internal chip, which also uses the astable cct as above. You can only connect the voltage supply to the two leads.🤔
Young at heart 😉 Slightly older in other places.😊 Cheers Doug
HiRoycv,
When you look back it doesn't seem so far away. After Galloping Ghost came the reed system and I bought my First 4 Channel radio from Skyleader😊😊27Mhz. Still have it and it still works with the original deacs! Don't use it anymore 27Mhz has to much interference.
HiRoycv,
When you look back it doesn't seem so far away. After Galloping Ghost came the reed system and I bought my First 4 Channel radio from Skyleader😊😊27Mhz. Still have it and it still works with the original deacs! Don't use it anymore 27Mhz has to much interference.
Only old in years not mind or soul.
I have the alternating flasher circuit somewhere Mike. I used to make railway crossing signal lights so I will dig it out. Cannot remember if it was adjustable. I have a finished one here somewhere so I will try and find it.😊
I have the alternating flasher circuit somewhere Mike. I used to make railway crossing signal lights so I will dig it out. Cannot remember if it was adjustable. I have a finished one here somewhere so I will try and find it.😊
I cannot promise to finish one project before starting another. I know, I tried.
Hi I missed a point! Derek Olley before he called himself Fleet RC used to market a Galloping Ghost RC system. I have never seen one but understand the concept.
How nice to be 74 again!
Roy
Hi I missed a point! Derek Olley before he called himself Fleet RC used to market a Galloping Ghost RC system. I have never seen one but understand the concept.
How nice to be 74 again!
Roy
Hi don't knock the clockwork! I restored a scratch built clockwork driven RC boat about 30 inches long. Runs for about 7 minutes, but is tough on the fingers to wind up.
It has a 5mm square key shaft and I had to make my own key. I did try and get a bespoke one but the company who made keys was not interested!
Being slow to bend the knees to reach the water I fitted an interrupter to stop and start the drive. My first effort was soon knocked sideways and had to use thicker brass wire to do the job.
As per the thread I have a Fred Rising clockwork actuator and a Mighty Midget Ripmax rudder servo from the 'old days'.
regards
Roy
Hi don't knock the clockwork! I restored a scratch built clockwork driven RC boat about 30 inches long. Runs for about 7 minutes, but is tough on the fingers to wind up.
It has a 5mm square key shaft and I had to make my own key. I did try and get a bespoke one but the company who made keys was not interested!
Being slow to bend the knees to reach the water I fitted an interrupter to stop and start the drive. My first effort was soon knocked sideways and had to use thicker brass wire to do the job.
As per the thread I have a Fred Rising clockwork actuator and a Mighty Midget Ripmax rudder servo from the 'old days'.
The Clockwork one was fitted to a Sea Queen. I also had a Keil Kraft Snipe with an ED Racer and rubber escapement.
Funnily enough I am building a Sea Queen now from Aerokits
The Clockwork one was fitted to a Sea Queen. I also had a Keil Kraft Snipe with an ED Racer and rubber escapement.
Funnily enough I am building a Sea Queen now from Aerokits
Only old in years not mind or soul.
You must have used it in a boat then. It was a pretty normal split clockwork in boats and rubber in airplanes.
You all do know, of course, that when you start talking about Galloping Ghost that you are dating yourselves, a wee bit. Like LAST CENTURY!!!!!😁😁😁😁
I dare you to go onto an airplane site and ask for help with one........
While this may not be relevant to the discussion, there is a company on this side off the Pond that offers a flashing kit for Lighthouses that causes the LED to build in brightness until it flashes, then it dims slowly. Replicates a sweeping beam quite convincingly. If there is interest I'll post a link.
You all do know, of course, that when you start talking about Galloping Ghost that you are dating yourselves, a wee bit. Like LAST CENTURY!!!!!😁😁😁😁
I dare you to go onto an airplane site and ask for help with one........
While this may not be relevant to the discussion, there is a company on this side off the Pond that offers a flashing kit for Lighthouses that causes the LED to build in brightness until it flashes, then it dims slowly. Replicates a sweeping beam quite convincingly. If there is interest I'll post a link.
this could be the easy solution to your needs
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RK-Education-555-timer-Astable-Project-with-Drive-Circuit/124314542872?hash=item1cf1b96318:g:kjYAAOSwxUFfZKsq
£3:74 including postage you can use your own LEDs and since it has variable resistors you can tune the time. Its a printed circuit board so no worries about cutting tracks.
£3:74 including postage you can use your own LEDs and since it has variable resistors you can tune the time. Its a printed circuit board so no worries about cutting tracks.
"that's not a bug its just an undocumented creature."
Sir Terence David John "Terry" Pratchett, OBE (28 April 1948 - 12 March 2015)
yeah the rand actuator was a godsend ( but you couldn't solder to it). Memories of an airplane back end dancing when you were on low rates.
People do not believe me when I talk of my Veron robot having a rubber powered Elmic compact escapement. ( Yes I was posh and had kick up elevator)
Quick blip for sequential throttle.
yeah the rand actuator was a godsend ( but you couldn't solder to it). Memories of an airplane back end dancing when you were on low rates.
People do not believe me when I talk of my Veron robot having a rubber powered Elmic compact escapement. ( Yes I was posh and had kick up elevator)
Quick blip for sequential throttle.
"that's not a bug its just an undocumented creature."
Sir Terence David John "Terry" Pratchett, OBE (28 April 1948 - 12 March 2015)
Galloping Ghost, wow that really is a blast from the past. Lots of home made systems used the old Victory Industries Mighty Midget motors if my memory serves me correctly, in latter years of course the ready built Rand unit was produced saving lots of head scratching. Those were the days.
Galloping Ghost, wow that really is a blast from the past. Lots of home made systems used the old Victory Industries Mighty Midget motors if my memory serves me correctly, in latter years of course the ready built Rand unit was produced saving lots of head scratching. Those were the days.
OK here goes
6v supply
RED & BLUE alternating flashing
flash rate 1sec alternating between R & B, But Ideally adjustable
Mounted on Stripboard 2.5mm 0.1 inch Spacing
It is to fit in a flat space 10mm high but width and breadth can be up to 50mm x 50mm
OK here goes
6v supply
RED & BLUE alternating flashing
flash rate 1sec alternating between R & B, But Ideally adjustable
Mounted on Stripboard 2.5mm 0.1 inch Spacing
It is to fit in a flat space 10mm high but width and breadth can be up to 50mm x 50mm
once again tell me what your wanting to do how many LEDs and flashing rate and I should be able to work it all out for you, I will also need the intended supply voltage.
once again tell me what your wanting to do how many LEDs and flashing rate and I should be able to work it all out for you, I will also need the intended supply voltage.
"that's not a bug its just an undocumented creature."
Sir Terence David John "Terry" Pratchett, OBE (28 April 1948 - 12 March 2015)
Hi Mouldbuilder any chance of a wiring diagram and component list,
Then I can have a go.
PS I'm a minimal electronics builder, I can put it together and follow a diagram but the theory eludes me.
Hi Mouldbuilder any chance of a wiring diagram and component list,
Then I can have a go.
PS I'm a minimal electronics builder, I can put it together and follow a diagram but the theory eludes me.
Haverlock,
I remember Galloping Ghost and Single Channel and clockwork and rubber escapements. Such Fun😊😊😊 When 27Mhz was all we had not even a spit band
Haverlock,
I remember Galloping Ghost and Single Channel and clockwork and rubber escapements. Such Fun😊😊😊 When 27Mhz was all we had not even a spit band
But the cost of a Nano is so low such that it is a very flexible tool and can be re-programmed quickly and provide additional outputs, etc. Coupled with the cost of LED's and resistors which are cheap as chips (excuse the pun) makes it a simple cost option. However, each to his own.
But the cost of a Nano is so low such that it is a very flexible tool and can be re-programmed quickly and provide additional outputs, etc. Coupled with the cost of LED's and resistors which are cheap as chips (excuse the pun) makes it a simple cost option. However, each to his own.
true BUT overkill for a few flashing LEDs now if your talking of an autonomous device using GPS so the boat will do a steering course without input ~grins~ or a MASSIVE cheat when straight running.
true BUT overkill for a few flashing LEDs now if your talking of an autonomous device using GPS so the boat will do a steering course without input grins or a MASSIVE cheat when straight running.
"that's not a bug its just an undocumented creature."
Sir Terence David John "Terry" Pratchett, OBE (28 April 1948 - 12 March 2015)
if you look at the circuit here
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/_M0wpnSVZpro/SQGdFLcAqDI/AAAAAAAAAAs/e2H5B_-NOj8/s320/LEDFlasherSchematic.GIF
L1 ( the LED) and R4 ( current limiting resistor) could change places and still work fine.
You can build a simple device to do the same job without using a chip
https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/waveforms/astable.html
any one who remembers the " galloping ghost" control system will recognize it ( yes I am that old)
This is the circuit I make up when I need a flasher unit.
I have made several over the past few years. Still cannot quite make out why the LED resistor goes to negative but the circuit works well.
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This is the circuit I make up when I need a flasher unit.
I have made several over the past few years. Still cannot quite make out why the LED resistor goes to negative but the circuit works well.
I cannot promise to finish one project before starting another. I know, I tried.
If you tell me what your trying to do I can probably work out all of the values you need.
I need the voltage your going to drive the circuit from how many LED you want lit at a time and the period on/off. Its easy to have 2 different LEDs (or multiples) alternate so one set is on while the other off.
This would allow the red/blue setup for a police vehicle etc.
If you want to get REALLY complex using an Arduino its possible to have a signal lamp sending Morse coded messages
If you tell me what your trying to do I can probably work out all of the values you need.
I need the voltage your going to drive the circuit from how many LED you want lit at a time and the period on/off. Its easy to have 2 different LEDs (or multiples) alternate so one set is on while the other off.
This would allow the red/blue setup for a police vehicle etc.
If you want to get REALLY complex using an Arduino its possible to have a signal lamp sending Morse coded messages
"that's not a bug its just an undocumented creature."
Sir Terence David John "Terry" Pratchett, OBE (28 April 1948 - 12 March 2015)
since it seems the 555 timer chip holds interest for some of you have a look here there are LOTS of examples.
http://www.555-timer-circuits.com/
the chip is cheap I think I bought about 50 for less than £10 some time ago. Some strip board a little solder and a hand full of other components and you can make all sorts of simple add on circuits
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Qty-NE555-BIPOLAR-TIMER-IC-UK-Seller/184131833900?hash=item2adf1cd02c:g:h~gAAOSwDAxe448N
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Strip-Board-Printed-Circuit-PCB-Vero-Prototyping-Track-Packs-of-5/261199157440?hash=item3cd0aed8c0:g:AaMAAOSwQItULpSf
If you have never used stripboard you use a drill to "cut" the copper where you do not want connection between 2 points.
the chip is cheap I think I bought about 50 for less than £10 some time ago. Some strip board a little solder and a hand full of other components and you can make all sorts of simple add on circuits
using a 555 timer chip flashing LED s is a simple thing. You can set ON/OFF duration
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/_M0wpnSVZpro/SQGdFLcAqDI/AAAAAAAAAAs/e2H5B_-NOj8/s320/LEDFlasherSchematic.GIF
one example
Thanks one and all for your suggestions, I have also seen this alternative on you tube using the circuit out of a Quartz clock
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I have seen circuits developed to cause LEDs to flash at specific timing. These are all external to the LED. You might consider looking for a flashing circuit, or light house flashing circuit to place in you hull and wire the LEDs to. LEDs that are designed to flash usually can not be of an adjustable rate. I have some links stored somewhere on this machine. I'll try to find them and post them. Last point, LEDs emit the vast majority of their light out of the top of the unit. I have found that sanding down and capping the top with a piece of styrene seems to enhance the effect of the visual horizontal light.
I have seen circuits developed to cause LEDs to flash at specific timing. These are all external to the LED. You might consider looking for a flashing circuit, or light house flashing circuit to place in you hull and wire the LEDs to. LEDs that are designed to flash usually can not be of an adjustable rate. I have some links stored somewhere on this machine. I'll try to find them and post them. Last point, LEDs emit the vast majority of their light out of the top of the unit. I have found that sanding down and capping the top with a piece of styrene seems to enhance the effect of the visual horizontal light.
Hi there this is the detail I have about the LEDs
They are just standard flashing LEDs with no adjustment.
Ultra Bright Flashing / Flickering LEDs 3mm/5mm/8mm/10mm Multi Colour UK Seller
( 361399365207 )
Colour: Blue Flashing
Number of LEDs: 10x
Size: 3mm
Michael,
Are the LEDs you have clear or diffuse plastic. The viewing angle tends to be better with diffuse LEDs. I see that Component shop have both types available, but there is no information on their website about viewing angle.
LEDs with a flat, rather than domed top tend to have a wide viewing angle. Most Christmas tree LED lights are flat top for this reason.
Component shop are correct that there are typically two chips inside a flashing LED. Not sure that is the reason that the viewing angle is narrow. There is far less choice of LEDs if you want a flashing version. That’s more likely why what they offer are narrow beam.
A better solution might be to use ordinary LEDs with a separate flasher circuit. That way you would have many more LEDs to choose from. Here’s a possible solution.
Graham93
Are the LEDs you have clear or diffuse plastic. The viewing angle tends to be better with diffuse LEDs. I see that Component shop have both types available, but there is no information on their website about viewing angle.
LEDs with a flat, rather than domed top tend to have a wide viewing angle. Most Christmas tree LED lights are flat top for this reason.
Component shop are correct that there are typically two chips inside a flashing LED. Not sure that is the reason that the viewing angle is narrow. There is far less choice of LEDs if you want a flashing version. That’s more likely why what they offer are narrow beam.
A better solution might be to use ordinary LEDs with a separate flasher circuit. That way you would have many more LEDs to choose from. Here’s a possible solution.
I have purchased some 3mm blue flashing LEDs, to mount in the mast of a police boat, however the beam emits at 30 degrees (when the conductors are in a horizontal plane) I asked the seller (component shop) if this was normal or were they faulty.
The reply - Hi Michael,
Thanks for getting in touch. What you are describing is pretty much the case for all 3mm flashing LEDs, this is because unlike a standard LED which just has the one chip producing the light, the flashing LEDs have a second timer chip to produce the flashing effect. The two chips are mounted side by side as there is not enough room to mount the lighting chip centrally and still squeeze in the flasher.
Best Regards
Any thoughts ?
I have purchased some 3mm blue flashing LEDs, to mount in the mast of a police boat, however the beam emits at 30 degrees (when the conductors are in a horizontal plane) I asked the seller (component shop) if this was normal or were they faulty.
The reply - Hi Michael,
Thanks for getting in touch. What you are describing is pretty much the case for all 3mm flashing LEDs, this is because unlike a standard LED which just has the one chip producing the light, the flashing LEDs have a second timer chip to produce the flashing effect. The two chips are mounted side by side as there is not enough room to mount the lighting chip centrally and still squeeze in the flasher.
Best Regards