Hi Cheddarman, I hope I'm wrong, but this message is three years old.
The last message from nickcouldry was three years ago.
He may not read your request for help, or he may not read it for who knows how long.

Hi Nick. Have you got any pix from when you were building the MTB? Just got the planes so any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Doug,
Next sea trials delayed as we are now in the midst of a “stay home order”. Rather pointless as boat activities are outdoors, but why would common sense influence politicians?
One day - Inshallah!
All well otherwise, hope things are with you and yours
Rowen

"Am doing this as the Auto style are "slow-blow" and tube rapid. Have found the Auto ones much better that the tube on brushless motors."
I heartily agree Rowen 👍
Culprit is the surge (or so called In Rush current) which occurs when an electrical load, especially motors and other inductive loads, is first switched on.
This surge current can often be much higher than the operating current when the load, e.g. motor, settles down to smooth running.
(We won't here get into the question of back EMF effects on the installation when an inductive load like a motor is switched on!🙄)
You CAN get Slow Blow glass toob fuses, but (in my experience) generally only for relatively low current, a few amps perhaps. Not a lotta use for a high current ESC/motor combo! 🤔

Trust all is well with you and yours 👍🤞
Looking forward to your next Sea Trials 🤓😀
Cheers, Doug 😎

I'm with you Rowen and TD 👍
Standard refit task is glass clip type fuse holder out - blade type in 😉
Apart from anything else the contact resistance, and hence heating potential at high currents, should be less.
I still have a stock of glass fuses so they get used for lighting and other low current special function circuits. Just in case the wheels fall off and the U NO wot hits the fan! 🤔
Remember; fuses are there to stop the wiring going up in flames and destroying the model, not to protect the equipment at the end of the wire 😉
Cheers, Doug

Exactamente Tora 👍
That's what I meant with a circuit breaker.
Some are automatic as you say, some are manual reset.
Check offers and specs on the WWW carefully folks 🤓
Cheers, Doug 😎

"could you recommend the correct type of wiring to get?"
Hi Nick,
Rule of thumb is 'Wire core not smaller than the wire size fitted to the the motor!
Since your motor could draw up to 30Amps I would recommend a MINIMUM of 16 AWG (American Wire Gauge) 35Amp. 14 gauge to be on the safe side.
AWG has more or less succeeded the old SWG (Standard Wire Gauge).
Should be available at Halfords, or any decent car accessory / spares shop. Or of course Fleabay & Co 😉 If possible get the type with silicone insulation, it's more flexible which eases installation.
See attached pic of wire gauges, core size and current capacities.

BTW: re fuse; many don't seem to realise that fuses are there to protect the wiring (stopping it bursting into flames!🔥😭) NOT specifically to protect the equipment connected 😉
Cheers, Doug 😎

That is an idea!
Have recently begun a migration of glass tube style fuses to the Auto spade type.
Am doing this as the Auto style are "slow-blow" and tube rapid. Have found the Auto ones much better that the tube on brushless motors.
Rather than use the in-line holders, 4 or 6 fuse holder blocks are readily available on Banggood or E Bay.

thanks toradog - i'll look into that - useful to know! 😊

gotcha - thanks doug - could you recommend the correct type of wiring to get? (there seems to be quite a choice out there...)

Nick,
Doug is spot on, but I might suggest an alternative to fuses. Most cars these days are using auto reset fuses in many applications. These come, like their glass and plastic cousins, in many amp ranges. The advantage of them is that when they pop, they will then cool down and reset. As long as the operator recognizes the issue is at hand, weed in the wheel, ect, then often one can limp to shore. They are a bit more expensive, but in the long run cheaper and one does not have to take the boat apart to replace them. I am replacing all of my glass fuses except the very small ones, ie 1/4 - 3 amps.
cheers

Good show Nick 👍
Following your 'antics' 😁 with interest.
One more tip!
" i'm thinking of positioning this and an isolation switch in the space under the front hatch in the bow along with the receiver..."
It is preferable to keep the 'dirty' high current wiring, i.e. for ESC & motors well away from the antenna and all low current, i.e. signal wiring, to reduce / eliminate possible interference.
Even with 2.4GHz sets motors (especially brushed) and ESCs can cause EMI problems.
Keep the Batt-ESC-Motor wiring as short as possible and as far away from antennas and RX wiring as possible.
Cheers 😎

cheers for the tip doug - I've actually ordered exactly the set up you describe (along with 10 spare fuses - i'm bound to need some) - i'm thinking of positioning this and an isolation switch in the space under the front hatch in the bow along with the receiver...

i've got batteries on order (2x 3300 mAh 6 volt NiMh battery packs) - slowly getting there 🤞

Postscript 2 😁
Nick, easiest way to fit the fuse I mentioned is to use a car type blade fuse.
You can get in-line holders for these but it floats about in the boat so you need two hands to fit or remove the fuse.
I prefer to solder the holder (🙄) to a chunk of matrix board (Vero) that I can screw down in the boat. See attached pics of my Sea Scout engine compartment.
You can also get blade type resettable circuit breakers to fit these holders.
Check out Halfords or fleabay & Co.
Cheers, Doug 😎

Happy bracketing chaps 👍
I've been going through my 'Tips & Tricks' archive, mainly checking what survived a recent hard drive failure 😭
Might have found a few other useful gems - more later 😉
Cheers, Doug 😎

And thanks for this - I prefer to make if I can - and it looks reasonable straightforward 😊

Brilliant - thank you so much Doug for sharing your knowledge - i can move forward with a little more confidence now! 😁

Excellent article Doug, I'll be needing this soon.

Bill

Postscript! 😁
Attached is an excellent article on 'How to make a motor bracket'.
Written by Tony Dalton, an excellent model builder, and 'Plastic Magicer' after my own heart.
His articles on converting static plastic models to RC often appear in Model Boats mag.
Thought this might be of interest Nick (and others?), if you fancy having a bash yourself, and saving a few shekels 😉
Cheers, Doug 😎

Evenin' Nick,
Checked up on the specs of your mota 😉
Seems it's rated for 2 or 3S LiPo, nominal 7.4 or 11.1V or 6 to 10NiMh cells, nominal 7.2 or 12V.
So unless you want to get into the mysteries of LiPos, and the initial investment into special charger etc etc, I suggest sticking to NIMh.
Two packs of 5 cells each wired in series should do the trick nicely and give the boat plenty of grunt. Two packs fitted one either side of the hull can help you to trim the boat and give more roll stability😀 Get the highest capacity packs you can fit in without sinking the ship!

Max continuous current rating of that motor on 12V is around 28-29Amps, and of the ESC 30Amps, so I suggest fitting a 25 or 30Amp fuse in the positive lead from battery to ESC.
Just in case the prop gets jammed on weed etc.

Since the 'can size' (diameter) of the motor is 35mm I also suggest running on a 35mm 3 blade prop for starters.
Do some trials with cheap plastic 35 and 40/45mm props. When you've decided which runs best without causing either motor or ESC to get hot, then you can lash out on a decent brass prop. Go for the smallest prop which gives you the performance you are expecting 😉
Too large a prop for the motor usually just draws more current without providing significantly more performance! Often just the contrary 🤔

My favourite brass props are from Raboesch, see attached catalogue.
Check out Type 156 on page 5.
Shops like Cornwall Model Boats carry them in UK.
https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/raboesch-brass-propellers.html
https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/35mm-M4-Threaded-3-Blade-R-H-Brass-D-Type-Propeller-RAB156_03.html#SID=1229
Bon chance mon ami 👍
Cheers, Doug 😎
PS Re motor mount; most of bend up a chunk of 1/8" aluminium to make ours, but shops like Cornwall also sell ready made / pre-drilled mounts. Just make sure that the mounting hole spacing matches your motor. 😉
https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/motor_mounts.html