HI Colin
Glad to hear you got the motor working.
1.4 amps seems quite low. I would have expected more. if the meter has blown (fuse) then the current was probably greater than its max current.
Good luck with the motor, would probably drive a Sea Commander or Tarpon at a nice scale speed.
Cheers
Dave 😀

HI Dave,
Thanks for info, have cleaned and tried the motor. it started to turn at a little over 3volts, and ran smoothly up to 18 volts, Got a drain of 1.4 amps at 12 volts then my meter packed up. (something else to fix 😭 ).
I put a pulley on and it turned my Unimat Lathe well enough to do light turning on a piece of brass. 😀
Very pleased with results of test, will now try to find a suitable model for it.
Thanks Colin. 👍

HI Colin
Have a look at the Taycol Motors website.( http://taycol.hobby-site.com/) They have details on using field wound motors with a bridge rectifier to reverse the field coil. A Bobs type board would certainly work provided it is capable of carrying the current. Equally a standard ESC will work but I suggest you apply some capacitors over the input as back EMF can be quite high and the sparks from the commutator will generate lots of interference especially with 27Mhz receivers.

I suggest you try on 6v with a direct connection initially and see if it turns. Add an ammeter and see what current is flowing and then adjust the battery voltage to see what happens. Once you know the approx voltage and likely current try a suitable speed controller.

For their day such motors were powerful but not very efficient so don't expect to see great performance. in a vintage model it should look the part and perform OK.

Best5 of luck 😀

HI Dave,
Thanks for info, will try it, does this mean it won't work with standard esc, would one of my old sweep arm systems work it. The armature has 8 segments. it turns freely, and using a meter it didn't show any signs of a short.
Thanks Colin.

HI Colin
It's a single series coil field motor. Very similar to the Taycol motors. The brushes are standard. You connect power between one brush and the coil. The other coil connection goes to the other brush connection. To reverse the motor you swap over the two coil connections, thus reversing the magnetic field.
Looking at the windings it's going to be current hungry, Taycols typically used 2amp just to run free. Looks like the brushes are wire gauze, again typical of a Taycol motor. Could be an early version but the metal casing looks different.
Could be ex WD in which case the voltage may be 24v dc. I'd start a 6v and work up. Check for any shorts between the windings and the case / armature. Shellack insulation becomes brittle over the years and waxed paper was usually used to cover the metal bits where the windings lay. if it takes more than a couple of amps when you power up and its running there is likely to be a short which you will need to rectify.
Good luck. Hope you manage to get it running 😀