New coupling with the cable ties seemed to hold up well this time, although the throttle end point is set to 80%,- looks scale enough as it is though.(only a 2400mah 3s battery, so not a long run time if you are going flat out- can suck 35-40A!). Pity the launching vid was rubbish, but have the amphitruck sorted with a towbar now, so I'll give it another crack when there is a good day.
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19 posts · Page 1 of 2New coupling with the cable ties seemed to hold up well this time, although the throttle end point is set to 80%,- looks scale enough as it is though.(only a 2400mah 3s battery, so not a long run time if you are going flat out- can suck 35-40A!). Pity the launching vid was rubbish, but have the amphitruck sorted with a towbar now, so I'll give it another crack when there is a good day.
- deeprivermanMaster SeamanHi jbkiwi, you have done a wonderful job of restoring the model to running order. The plans from MAP originally, she is not a broads cruiser ,but i can see why it was thought to be, but a 40FT Starcraft built in the late 50's early 60's by W Bates and sons on the river Thames at Chertsey in surrey.
Fairacre is one of a range of boats built post war by company from 20 ft inc 25 ft, 29, 30, 33, two 35's 40ft narrow and wide transom models and 7or 8 45ft models some with flybridge some without, the last wooden boat they built only one of , the 47ft Sea star finished in 1976 i seem to remember. There is currently a Star Craft owners club with a good range of the boats in it and have regular meets on the Thames. I worked for the company first on hire fleet in 70's as Saturday lad whilst at school then after a year at Falmoth tech went to work for them full time until august 78 and worked on refurbishing in the paint shop and craning and sliping them to be worked on, sorry to ramble but very happy times for meLiked by Dumaspittman and stevedownunder and - jbkiwiFleet AdmiralHi DRM, thanks very much for the info, must have been an interesting job. Being at the other end of the world, I'm not sure how you classify your boats up there, - we mainly just have runabouts, launches or yachts/motor sailers, (and a few super yachts). Someone mentioned that's what it was, so I went with that. I previously found a photo of the original named boat (Fairacre II ) on the Bates owners site, and I didn't realise it was a genuine name, (thought it was just the model name) Took quite a bit of research to even find where the model originated, (I think the guy from vintage model boats UK pointed me in the right direction) but eventually found it was from the MM709 plan.(maybe originally MAP).
The original was supposedly built in 1957 and had 2 BMC Commodores fitted, and as you say, was a 40ft model. The boat was renamed 'Lady Nassau' but not sure if it still exists. Very nice looking boats, and a totally different look to our launches (we'd call them a 'bridge decker' here). Most of our earlier launches were Kauri planked, then to laminated ply/ply, some foam sandwich, glass and aluminium. They would be an interesting launch to own down here, and would attract a bit of attention from classic enthusiasts.
If you are interested, check out the Waitematawoodys.com site for everything on classic NZ launches.
JBLiked by Dumaspittman and stevedownunder and
Probably be making some better couplings for the ST, as the silicone tubes are starting to work up to the motor bearings and rub on the front housings.
- jbkiwiFleet AdmiralHi Phil, I missed the start-up with the sound/water/smoke bit as I was being distracted, but this was mainly to try the camera mounting. Still have to try my airboat which I've added a better camera mount to, for some 'on the water' videos. Have a way to go to catch up to your vids though😁
JBLiked by Dumaspittman and Graham93 and
Very quiet as well, - mind you, couldn't hear much anyhow with a road milling machine working at the end of the pond about 150m away, at around 80db where I was!!😠😠😠😭 Of course it would have to be there today,! something like this always stuffs my plans up, cars, trucks, screeching seagulls, people talking to you while you are trying to make a nice quiet video etc etc. Can't seem to get away from noise. Added to that, the video's crap,- as soon as it uploads to YT it turns to rubbish,- was quite acceptable till then.
Must be the wide format they use, as it's fine in a small screen (ie YT preview) and my computer. Worst thing is, it took an hour to load this rubbish on a fibre connection!! Not loading any more till I get a better camera, "Santa, did you hear that ?"😁
I might de-power it a bit, as it has too much power really,- might put 2 540 45T motors in which will run on 2s nicely with 30mm props (has 35s at the moment) and not be as touchy on the throttle. You can steer this just using the throttles it's so bitey. Spins on the spot like a jet boat as well. Stereo worked well, but the IR remote doesn't like working too far away in bright sunlight, (have a separate vid, but YT would give a copyright warning, so I won't put that up) The vid is garbage, but you'll get the idea😁
- Mike StoneyRear AdmiralHello JB!
Congratulations, also on your idea with the sack truck, which I am taking the liberty of copying. . .
Just awesome your ideas here on this homepage!
Greetings Mike
Sorry, vid is blurry again ☹️ (original's fine -HD) but something happens when it goes through my movie editor then to YT. Keep procrastinating about getting a better camera (or maybe it's just the editor. - More experimenting, this is getting tedious😐
- jbkiwiFleet AdmiralHi Ron, haven't spent a huge amount due to the fact that all the electrical bits are very cheap ($1 ea for a voltage reg, $8-12 for a pump, $30 ea for a motor (bought 2 as the first was not fast enough) and jet unit, $15 for the ESC, a few JST plugs and wire, $3 smoke pen, few lengths of silicone tube etc, plus balsa and f/glass, -probably not a lot more than NZ $200. A lot of things you buy of course like resin and paint, usually have to be bought in bigger quantities than you would use on one model, and may be used on other projects, so it's hard to work out an exact cost. I think the hull was the most expensive part, due to the cost of balsa and resin.
Mostly a lot of time, (hate to work out the labour cost on any model at going rates,- probably in the thousands)!
JBLiked by Martin555 and RNinMunich
Runs full at around 4A and the battery holds at around 3.8v/ cell )alarm is set at 3.6 for safety, (as a sort of rev limiter) performance should improve a bit now. Have to wait till tomorrow as the restrictions end at 6am Sunday, (then have to hope for good weather for the test) The prop in the jet is a 28mm 3 blade racing prop which I modified to fit. Don't think I'm going to get much more out of the jet unit without it exploding😁, (it's only plastic I think, not GRP), - might have to buy a back-up and fit it with better quality bearings etc. If the jet was in the usual 'plastic' 24" toys it would be a rocket, but it's pushing 6lbs which is a challenge😀
Note the police chase outside in the background😁- always action around here, lots of hoons in cars😁
Have pulled the jet apart and found that the 3 blade prop is around 1 mm too small for the hole, causing cavitation (see loads of bubbles in the jet stream) which is causing loss of thrust. The prop is the wrong type as well, with rounded blades, so I have modified a larger prop with more pitch to fit snugly in the unit to hopefully increase thrust. The shaft is also wrong, with a flat cut almost half the diam and carrying on through the bearing, allowing the grease to fly out.
I actually saw a Chinese site on Al Expr stating that "some dimensions on the product may be different due to the number of machines and operators involved in its' manufacture," SERIOUSLY!!??? their quality control must be utter crap and the operators not skilled enough to eat their lunch😐 Why bother having a dimension at all?? Little wonder nothing fits properly.
Unfortunately, most model shops sell the very same stuff, unless you want to shell out muchos dolleros for European stuff. I have just ordered some 4mm silver steel to make a new shaft, so a coupling or silicone tube will fit better. Also ordered some solid connectors to try. Vibration is wasted energy so it needs to be eliminated. Hopefully the mods will improve things and allow the motor to run on 4s rater than 3s. Worked out that the motor is only 1200KV, so it's only doing around 13,000 rpm under load. Probably will need around
18,000 rpm for proper performance. Onwards and upwards (or forwards as the case may be.😁)
Sorry about the blurry vid again, but my camera lens is knackered.
Smoke air and water are working as well as can be expected, (smoke is a bit wafty, but with too much air introduced it will disappear as it gets thinned out too much to see) I was not expecting miracles as this was a bit of an experiment (modified cheap jet unit with unknown abilities) but at least it shows promise😁. If I can find a coupling which is concentric it will solve the drive problem.
Trouble is, the Chinese insist on making a 4mm shaft, 4.95 (or whatever) which is useless for balance in a 4mm ID bearing for example. Fine for cars, but no good for boats or planes due to balance requirements (it's a mission trying to balance plane props due to this thinking,- they do it with everything) shafts for electric motors are a nightmare at times as the play they build in, can ruin an otherwise good motor. I might have to buy a flexible rubber/nylon universal or a collet style( preferable as these take up any undersize on shafts) to fix it. They included a spiral alloy one with the jet unit which is as loose as a rooster in a sock, and only good for slower things like 3D printers etc. One of these days they will learn how to machine things to fit.😐
- Martin555Fleet AdmiralHi Jb,
Nice to see her in the water.
I am very surprised at the lack of reverse.
Martin555.Liked by Inkoust and Puddle-pirate - jbkiwiFleet AdmiralSeemed to work a whole lot better in the tank for some reason Martin. Possibly due to the coupling slipping, (the squealing is it slipping) Just a bit of silicone fuel tube. I use it on all the boats as it's quiet, self aligning, and lets go if your prop gets jammed by weed. Problem is with the jet, it has a flat on the shaft for some reason which doesn't help the tube grip, and lets grease in causing slippage. I'll sort it eventually,- didn't expect miracles first time out (same with planes) - Almost always some small initial problems.
Motor should be spinning at 15,000 rpm with a 3 cell, but performance is not matching that, obviously,- just piddling along😁 Mind you, I used to cruise like that in the full sized boat, as the Zodiac motor used to suck gas like nothing at 20 knots plus, (gallons per mile, not miles per gallon!)
JB
The original windows were cut from a sheet using templates provided and some did not fit as they were on the small side.i used some plastic sheet i had to make my own replacements.I also changed the prop coupling for a universal joint(i always do)
I prefer the less is more approach to some models.
It's brilliant and looks so realistic, well done sir, a model to be very very proud of.
Cheers Colin.
Re the real one,- that was a lot easier to fish from, this one's a bit cramped lol.
JB