Was asked for more info . So here are a few photos . This mini humidifier uses water only to generate fake smoke no smelly baby oil & varsol odor 50%-50% mix for Graupner smokers .I get the power to run unit from the receiver battery port as the unit uses a USD port to make it work so I got a old servo & cut the wire off it removed the signal white wire & used the black & red wires to power up unit . I have to turn model on then power up the Humidifier to start fake smoke put the cabin on model & away we go. Make sure Positive & Negative are put in proper receiver slots Please don't damage receiver if it's plugged in wrong.

Had a large moment of enthusiasm yesterday and fitted the jet unit and associated bits. Then it was time to wet its bum for a test. First off, the jet wouldn't suck water without pushing the stern down slightly, (as I expected due to the boats' light weight.) I added 300g to the stern and she was away😊 Happiness filled I were😁!. Reversing bucket works very well (even though it's a bit of a blob on the transom). You really need one if you don't want to go forward forever, trying not to 'sail yourself into a corner'.

I Need to waterproof the pushrod holes in the transom but the bellows I bought are too stiff and compress too much, so I'll have to come up with another method, (probably some deflectors for a start. Only a problem when in reverse with a bit of throttle on. Plenty of power with the 2s I was using, but motor is rated 12-24v so it would scream, -even with a 3s. I'll start with 2s and see how it goes. Might have an initial blast on the lake this week if all goes well, although I'd like to finish the deck bits first.

Just waiting for some Voltage regs to come so I can complete the electrical side with the fancy bits.. The mechanical and electrical sides are as good as done, Grahams timer is working perfectly, with the water pump and air pumps hooked up (going to install a VReg on each one plus the smoker).

As a follow-on to Grahams' comment on our latest collaboration on a smoke pulsing 'capacitor driven' device, we thought it was time to 'chuck it out there' and see what you think. I saw the vid on the guys warship with the very fancy gun smoke system a while ago and thought there must be a simpler way than the sophisticated and technical way he did it.

Having done press setting in my early days, I remembered that a big press we used to set had a hydraulic capacitor which helped get the ram moving (pretty much what electrical capacitors do for motors etc) I started with a common party balloon with no container and knew Graham would be interested, and it progressed from there. As usual, Graham has done a fancy bit of electronic control on his, with solenoid and timing and has it working nicely.
(just received my new solenoid which I will be adding in due course)

Balloon is stopped from filling by a micro switch to the air pump and air is released by solenoid at whatever timing you need (depending on how well your smoker can keep up). If the system has no leaks, the 'capacitor' can hold air indefinitely, ready for use, and will re-fill automatically, (pump only runs to re-fill) This idea can be modified to suit anything (guns, exhaust startup and run, steam to simulate steam whistle etc) Balloons of all shapes can be used eg -(long thin sausage balloons could be fitted inside a tube if space is an issue).

With a good air pump, the 'capacitor' will fill quite quickly and some good pressure can be achieved.
JB

In case you have a smoke device using these or any smoker you can fill remotely by this method. Just used a reservoir and (for the purpose of the test) a 6v water pump running as slowly as possible. Pump sucks fluid through the smoke tank from the reservoir and recirculates it back to same. Reservoir fluid level needs to be level with, or below the smoke tank inlets to avoid siphoning to the tank and flooding the wick. With this system it only takes a few seconds to fill. You could also use the same idea manually with a deck filler and overflow. Either system must be sealed (airtight) to avoid fluid draining from tank when not in use, ( Manual system - both tubes plugged after filling) This idea does away with disassembling E-pen to fill .
JB

Hooked it up to test exhausts and set the voltage a bit higher (2.6v) to show a bit more smoke. It can go to 3.5V but the test V reg Buck wont handle it (I've fitted a fan but still gets hot quick on 3.6V although not quite as bad.)
JB

This is the latest smoke version running on only 2,2V (4 Amps) and using a 12v water/air pump running on 8v to push the smoke. I can't run it on 3v (coil capable of 3.5v) as the regulator (5 Amp) is only rated for around 3.5A continuous (found that out cooking the last one) They say they have an over heat cutout, - but not so much☹️!

Don't need any more smoke than this for most applications I would think, but it's there if you need Mt Etna. Might see if I can get some lower wattage coils to drop the amps. I've ordered a few different 5A regulators to try, but I think fans are going to be needed to cool them. I think this is about as small as you can make these, using this method and easy to find bits and pieces, as you have to leave a reasonable air gap so as not to melt the housing, (also to pack the cotton around the coil)

There are the pre-wound coils to try next which might be able to be fitted in a smaller metal housing, but that's for later. I'm sure everyone has the idea by now and it will be interesting to see what others come up with for their particular models.
JB

A fan powered smoke unit (modified Heng Long) tried in the HSL. Not particularly good but it's output is reasonably scale(ish). As the fan (12v comp snail fan) just blows into the back of the smoke box without any positive connection, a fair bit of smoke escapes into the engine bay. The fan is hooked up to run with the cooling pump and is left on while running after the smoke (on off remote from the rotary switch) is turned off, and blows the residual smoke from the engine bay out the exhausts.

There are also the 2 small air pumps plumbed into the exhaust outlets via venturi pipe inserts, to blow the water out of the exhausts, (just on the waterline) as any water stops the smoke coming out (surface tension holds it in the pipe). Once I find a decent high volume small quiet air pump, I can do away with these and the fan, which should make things a bit better.
I've ordered some small 12v 40W printer elements to try another smoker idea, but they will be a while coming. Smoke will only be on for startup so shouldn't be too much of a problem.

I've almost become water/vaporlogged/glycerogged with all these experiments, and the other night I actually set off the smoke detectors,- house smells like a glycerine factory for hours afterwards,- but my skin's getting really smooth😂😂😂😂
JB

This is the top of the line, premium, top grade, no expense spared, gold standard, fully reverse flowed liquid converter. Assembled by skilled Latvian craftsmen using quality hammers and pick axes, and working in the most modern up to date farm sheds. We at Smoke R&D, present the Smoker Model X - "A smoker for the discerning modeler" (said Botswana Model Monthly)
JB, Head Sherang, Smoke R&D.

Managed to get a smoker fitted in the HSL and it works reasonably well. Would have used a small ESC to vary the smoke etc but have run out of channels on the 6ch TX (also room). Could use my 9X TX but would have to mod the elevator to a throttle (for twin set-up) I could use the TX to program smoke advance etc using the curve facility. Might do that later as I mainly use my Futaba 6ex and 9XR for my planes and hardly use the 9X, (even though it's a good radio).
JB

Trying air injection to break up the water flow. The air pumps I ordered finally arrived a week late but are too small to be of much use. I need a much bigger and faster volume of air to achieve what I want, which is for the water to almost be sprayed out in a mist. Might need to mod the water outlet by fitting fine tubes or stoppers around the inner smoke tube to build up a bit of back pressure, which might be another alternative
Unfortunately, as I've said before, you can't scale water, due partly to surface tension etc (why it either drips or runs out of a small pipe), so to make it fine you have to pressurize/vaporise it at the point of exit (ie garden sprayer) which is the hard part on a small scale. Lots of fun trying to perfect it though, and it keeps me out of trouble, and keeps the brain working - (although it's just asked for a pay rise due to all the work it's been doing lately!😂)

Tip,- if you run both videos at once you can see the difference between this and the last vid. It also breaks the smoke up.
JB

Just trying a few more things while waiting for more bits to arrive. This time using a small ESC for the smoke, and using CH 6 (rotary pot) on the TX. Water is adjustable with the voltage reg but could be hooked to the motor ESC as well, with a voltage reg used to set max flow. I'm just using the Heng long smoker box (modified) for this test.

Using the e-cig element in the alloy box again but with the old smoker pump bored out and converted to a single outlet in line with the piston. Even makes a cool sound out the exhaust side!. Still waiting for my air pumps so just playing around in the mean time. Also trying glycerin and water 50/50 instead of baby oil. The pump doesn't shift much air ( slightly more blowing than sucking, - sort of pulsing back and forward) but if I blow down a tube I get clouds of smoke, I'll see what the air pumps do. Still only running on 2v.
JB