Cabin partly painted, (tops to paint), mast painted with LED riding light fitted. Second sound unit turned up and both now fitted and working, (with as near as I can find to Detroit 4-53s as fitted to this boat, in the programmed choices). Inner hull in cockpit and some interior painted and steering servo fitted. Props painted bronze (art acrylic metallic).
Still waiting for shaft collars for the motor end of the shafts and some nice little shaft oiler cans (far easier than trying to make them). They have arrived in the country so shouldn't be too long. Off to get some paint tomorrow for the cabin tops and deck, also I have to fit the cockpit side battens which I've already stained and cut. Once the cabin's painted I can fit the windows and grab rails as the stanchions have arrived from CMB.
Going to make a quick vid later, showing the sound units operating etc. Still have bow roller and a number of smaller details to go, such as tidying the waterline with a black boot topping and making the name decals (if my printer stops mucking about, - almost time for a new one)! Also have to do the nav, cabin and stern lights, ( have ordered a small adjustable voltage reg to adjust lights. Remote switch for lights is already fitted.
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Cabin partly painted, (tops to paint), mast painted with LED riding light fitted. Second sound unit turned up and both now fitted and working, (with as near as I can find to Detroit 4-53s as fitted to this boat, in the programmed choices). Inner hull in cockpit and some interior painted and steering servo fitted. Props painted bronze (art acrylic metallic).
Still waiting for shaft collars for the motor end of the shafts and some nice little shaft oiler cans (far easier than trying to make them). They have arrived in the country so shouldn't be too long. Off to get some paint tomorrow for the cabin tops and deck, also I have to fit the cockpit side battens which I've already stained and cut. Once the cabin's painted I can fit the windows and grab rails as the stanchions have arrived from CMB.
Going to make a quick vid later, showing the sound units operating etc. Still have bow roller and a number of smaller details to go, such as tidying the waterline with a black boot topping and making the name decals (if my printer stops mucking about, - almost time for a new one)! Also have to do the nav, cabin and stern lights, ( have ordered a small adjustable voltage reg to adjust lights. Remote switch for lights is already fitted.
Hi MT, sound units are actually for cars but have a choice of 58 sounds from V8s to diesels and are the only ones I've seen which seem to sound ok. You have to go through all the sounds and try them through the throttle range but there are a number which sound ok for boats. You can also plug them into your computer and make a few changes such as throttle sensitivity, turbo sound and volume etc.
The sounds are proportional, from starting to full throttle and are all WAV sounds which seem to be split up into small 'samples' and as such, some are not quite linear but are useable.
There are 2 different models, One is the 'GT Power' sound and lights model - version 2 (the better I think) which comes with all the pre wired and plugged LEDs needed for a car, (h/l, t/l, indicators etc) and comes as a module and separate speaker, (you can plug 2 speakers into this module for better sound). The other model is the 'GT Power' Car Engine Sound 'mini' which is just the sound module and speaker in one box.
This works the same as the version 2 model but at present I'm having a problem with the Mini, which has the wrong model for USB adjustment installed, (sounds can be selected manually on the module but when you plug the module into the comp and open the module control panel, it's for the wrong model, - sound files are still viewable though) I'll have to contact GT Power for a fix (going by their on line help page, they seem quite ready to sort problems out and give solutions)
Cost is around $56 NZ for the version 2, and around $ 51 for the 'Mini' version which is comparable to most other sound units available, but with more features than some. Apparently, if you send the GT Power tech/help guy a complete WAV sound file (ie, start, idle, and steady slow acceleration to full and back they will make a sound file for your unit and email it back to you,(yet to try but would be brilliant if true)
Units are sold on Ebay, Ali Express and Banggood (and many other model shops) and it's worth shopping around all of them, as there are big price differences. These are also sold as GOOL RC sound units but are made by GT Power. ( http://www.gt-rc.com/en/msgBoard.jsp ) You will see the home page on there.
I use a number of their products such as battery chargers, rev counters, battery checkers etc and all seem very reliable and work well. I don't think they sell direct, but they are sold everywhere.
For Rooky Sailors benefit, the motors are Gool RC 540-45T 7.4V brushed car motors which have ball bearings and replaceable brushes (motor is rebuildable). Haven't tried them on the water yet, but the 45T (12000rpm) should be tourqy enough (different turn Nos are available)
John B
Hi Doug, going to have a bit of lunch then try and do a few sound demos on a vid. The sounds aren't perfect but if you find the right throttle spot they can sound quite good.
John B
Hi here is 1502 a seaplane tender i actually work one in the Historical Navy base in portsmouth i work as a volunteer repairing these classic boats .i had just finished repainting her and we are lowering her back into water.
Hi Carlos, Lucky bugger, what a great job! I was in the RNZAF marine section for a short while while they were still using the STs for target towing for the new (at the time) P3b Orions). I wanted to stay there but they wanted me to go back to training for aircraft engines. We still have 3 or 4 STs left in NZ (including one running, one being restored and a locally built one in the RNZAF museum). Assuming 1502 is the MK 2 wider hulled version? Think I saw a story on her restoration somewhere.
Deck and cabin tops painted, grab rails done, mooring post, bow roller, fairleads and anti slip strips on engine boxes (wet and dry strips) done.
To do, - tidy waterline, fit lights (remote switch already fitted) hook servo to steering rod, fit out wheelhouse and fit windows, (already cut), and fit cockpit strakes. Also have to fit upstands /internal coamings to keep any water out. I'll have to sort a way of locating the coamings, (probably wedges and pins, as the coamings drop down and slide back (about 40mm) into position.
Getting there slowly.
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Deck and cabin tops painted, grab rails done, mooring post, bow roller, fairleads and anti slip strips on engine boxes (wet and dry strips) done.
To do, - tidy waterline, fit lights (remote switch already fitted) hook servo to steering rod, fit out wheelhouse and fit windows, (already cut), and fit cockpit strakes. Also have to fit upstands /internal coamings to keep any water out. I'll have to sort a way of locating the coamings, (probably wedges and pins, as the coamings drop down and slide back (about 40mm) into position.
Getting there slowly.
Hi All.
I found this very interesting film on YouTube about the RAF Seaplane Tenders.
Could be useful for accurate detailing and it's nice to see a fleet of them in operation.
Shame that there's no commentary on the film though, which is unusual for Pathé films.
There's also a film about the RAF ASRL in action too....with commentary 👍
Robbob.
Great film clips, thanks Rob. I've been looking at all the clips I can find on Youtube to do with RAF rescue boats, and I've found you can go right past something unless you are close to a name. A few letters can make all the difference between finding something or not. Took me about 18 years (looking on and off trying every combination of words I could think of) to find the original Thornycroft MTB 49 photos (Vic Smeed model plan of this boat, which I built) and only found it on a UK model mouldings website by sheer luck, as I was looking round the site for something else! Now you type in MTB 49 and it comes up everywhere as someone has uploaded it from the Museums files and it's become common. Probably search engines have become smarter as well.
Nav lights, riding light, rear cockpit light all done and set to whatever I want to come on (riding light, cabin lights, cockpit light, nav lights, all lights etc) with a micro rotary switch, (with mahogany trim) in the rear cockpit. Lighting comes on with a remote switch. Made the nav light boards from mahogany and the rear cockpit strakes from stained hardwood.
Re-arranged the plumbing to give a bit more room but the wiring was a mission to hide as each Neg from each set or single LED had to go back to the selector (plus 1 Pos feed) so it looks like spaghetti junction on the cabin roof. Also had to run a separate wire from the stern light to join up with the main loom in the cabin (both power and stern light connect by 2 JST connectors)
Could have done away with a lot of bits by using my 9X TX, but would have had to convert it to twin throttles, but I still use that for planes. You seldom need the lights on as who runs at night.? I tried it a few months back with the HSL and had to steer by nav lights - bit scary - can hear it (twin sound units) but real hard to see. I did a video but you can't see much.
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Nav lights, riding light, rear cockpit light all done and set to whatever I want to come on (riding light, cabin lights, cockpit light, nav lights, all lights etc) with a micro rotary switch, (with mahogany trim) in the rear cockpit. Lighting comes on with a remote switch. Made the nav light boards from mahogany and the rear cockpit strakes from stained hardwood.
Re-arranged the plumbing to give a bit more room but the wiring was a mission to hide as each Neg from each set or single LED had to go back to the selector (plus 1 Pos feed) so it looks like spaghetti junction on the cabin roof. Also had to run a separate wire from the stern light to join up with the main loom in the cabin (both power and stern light connect by 2 JST connectors)
Could have done away with a lot of bits by using my 9X TX, but would have had to convert it to twin throttles, but I still use that for planes. You seldom need the lights on as who runs at night.? I tried it a few months back with the HSL and had to steer by nav lights - bit scary - can hear it (twin sound units) but real hard to see. I did a video but you can't see much.
Bit difficult to wrap wires Martin as they go in all directions and have to be hidden up pillars in the wheelhouse, through small holes etc. I just stick them all down with masking tape or hot melt and paint them all and you don't see them. Re the switch, I get them from our local Jaycar (Australian co - a bit like Dick Smiths used to be) electronics store. They are PCB mount rotary 10 pos switches with 6 pins on the back. Center 2 pins are POS feed and outer 4 pins are NEG . You just use 1 POS and the NEGs are all taken from the LEDs ( LED POS are all joined elsewhere, and to main power in) and soldered to the appropriate terminal, (a bit of experimentation required.
The mini toggle switches I use for things such as replacing ESC on/off slide switches, lights pumps etc. The dip switches make cool miniature light switchboards (see pic of one in my Fairacre which switches Nav, riding light, front, middle and rear cabin lights separately) Hope this gives an idea. See if you can get into this, (ignore the payment bit and try downloading the free PDF catalogue (payment's for hard copy I think) https://www.jaycar.co.nz/latest-catalogues Makes interesting reading, hope it works in UK (I just downloaded it now).
John B
Trying to finish by the end of the alphabet. Plumbing sorted, shaft oiler cans arrived today (very nice) and fitted, ESC on/off switches changed to toggle from slide, twin RXs (in the bow) and twin remote switches (lights and pump), steering servo fitted and hooked up ( by cable from in front of Stbd motor)
Twin RXs required as the mini (self contained sound unit was getting back voltage from the REC the way it's plugged in ) - had other sound unit plugged in as well which is wired differently and has more options, but they were fighting each other and the mini would not start with sound OFF - (ran as soon as you turned the ESC on). Mini now has own REC.
A bit more painting and trimming to do and wheelhouse fit out, but she's almost ready to throw in the water and see if she's a witch (ref Monty Python, The Holy Grail)
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Trying to finish by the end of the alphabet. Plumbing sorted, shaft oiler cans arrived today (very nice) and fitted, ESC on/off switches changed to toggle from slide, twin RXs (in the bow) and twin remote switches (lights and pump), steering servo fitted and hooked up ( by cable from in front of Stbd motor)
Twin RXs required as the mini (self contained sound unit was getting back voltage from the REC the way it's plugged in ) - had other sound unit plugged in as well which is wired differently and has more options, but they were fighting each other and the mini would not start with sound OFF - (ran as soon as you turned the ESC on). Mini now has own REC.
A bit more painting and trimming to do and wheelhouse fit out, but she's almost ready to throw in the water and see if she's a witch (ref Monty Python, The Holy Grail)
Thanks JB,
I think I understand that !
What would happen if you had something plugged in to say channel two on both receivers ?
I assume that they would operate at the same time.
Yes, all channels are as they would be normally and both RXs operate identically. You could have a servo plugged into Ch2 on one RX and a pump on Ch 2 on the other, and when you moved the stick they would operate as one (probably not a lot of use) RXs need to be independently powered also, not linked in any way.
As I previously mentioned, you still only have the same No of channels as your TX. You might use it for eg where you have run out of channels but want to have a crewman steering a fake wheel or tiller at the same time as you operate the rudder, or anywhere you might want 2 things operating from one stick (or switch) simultaneously . Could save a bit of complicated wiring or running 2 boats (one from each stick), you can park 1 and run the other and vice versa or if you have good coordination, run 2 together (might put a clip up to demo, - have one of the MTB and Maiami running together).
JB
Didn't quite make it by Z but what the hell. Thought I'd throw a small bit of progress in as there seems to be a bit of a building lull lately. Made the rear wheelhouse partition and 'louvre' door, and 4 cleats, which I think look too small (ran out larger of brass rod) but are made with the vertical stem going through the washer as a pin, and are not yet glued in.
Finished the rear cockpit trimming and internal water diverting coamings, and done one side of the boot topping to try and tidy up the waterline, (the masking tape all seems to be crap and bleeds - unless you want to spend $18 for 'professional' stuff which is probably just as bad!) Hard to find thin trimming tape these days as well, so have to cut your own to go round tight curves.
Used to use thin dope to seal the edges years ago (on coloured doped aircraft) but will melt the acrylic and leave a raised edge, which I won't be painting up to. You have to do a number of really light coats if you want to stop it bleeding, and run a blunt tool along the edge really firmly beforehand (still not good enough really). Could have used pin-striping tape but that leaves a raised stripe (scale waterline would be about 1"thick) also $15 a roll with 90% left over (bit of a waste).
I also roughly superimposed the model on the original photo to see how it compared. The original is a late model MK 1 narrow hull, but I went with the Mk 2 41'6" version with the longer wider hull (to have more internal room to play with) but with the coamings, masts etc of the original.
The MK 2 has a more pronounced 'Clipper' bow with more flare and is wider 'midships' but the wheelhouse is pretty similar. There ain't no one to worry about the accuracy these days as there are few good photos of the original (pretty well just mine and a friends fuzzy super 8 captures) so it's just a rough crack at it (also using a bit of the old 'poetic license').
Will email a pic to the current owner when I've finished and see what he thinks. Just have dash and wheel to do now (I think - bound to have missed something) Oh, that's right, - the rear cockpit canvas and dinghy! (I knew that😁)
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Didn't quite make it by Z but what the hell. Thought I'd throw a small bit of progress in as there seems to be a bit of a building lull lately. Made the rear wheelhouse partition and 'louvre' door, and 4 cleats, which I think look too small (ran out larger of brass rod) but are made with the vertical stem going through the washer as a pin, and are not yet glued in.
Finished the rear cockpit trimming and internal water diverting coamings, and done one side of the boot topping to try and tidy up the waterline, (the masking tape all seems to be crap and bleeds - unless you want to spend $18 for 'professional' stuff which is probably just as bad!) Hard to find thin trimming tape these days as well, so have to cut your own to go round tight curves.
Used to use thin dope to seal the edges years ago (on coloured doped aircraft) but will melt the acrylic and leave a raised edge, which I won't be painting up to. You have to do a number of really light coats if you want to stop it bleeding, and run a blunt tool along the edge really firmly beforehand (still not good enough really). Could have used pin-striping tape but that leaves a raised stripe (scale waterline would be about 1"thick) also $15 a roll with 90% left over (bit of a waste).
I also roughly superimposed the model on the original photo to see how it compared. The original is a late model MK 1 narrow hull, but I went with the Mk 2 41'6" version with the longer wider hull (to have more internal room to play with) but with the coamings, masts etc of the original.
The MK 2 has a more pronounced 'Clipper' bow with more flare and is wider 'midships' but the wheelhouse is pretty similar. There ain't no one to worry about the accuracy these days as there are few good photos of the original (pretty well just mine and a friends fuzzy super 8 captures) so it's just a rough crack at it (also using a bit of the old 'poetic license').
Will email a pic to the current owner when I've finished and see what he thinks. Just have dash and wheel to do now (I think - bound to have missed something) Oh, that's right, - the rear cockpit canvas and dinghy! (I knew that😁)
Hi JB,
I forgot to answer your question about the deck cleats.
Just looking at the photos they seem correct.
Deck cleats come in a lot of sizes so only an expert on that type of boat will be able to say. (or a scale rivet counter LOL!)
If they start to bug you then partly hide them with slightly under scale rope.
It could be just one of those things that gets in to your head.
As my profile signature says:-
"If it looks right then it probably is."
Re I forgot to answer your question about the deck cleats.
Thanks Martin, you are correct with the 'looking right' bit. Like a lot of people, if things don't look quite right it bugs me till I fix it. Think I'll have to go to the hobby shop and get some thicker brass rod. The ones on the boat aren't fixed yet and pull straight out, so it's no big job to make a new set, (I can use them elsewhere).
Just a few more bits made,-dash console, instrument panels, wheel and name decals. Wheel was made by gluing (thick cyno) a large thin fibre washer on to a strip of acetate sheet, then gluing the spokes and center on next, When set, the center segments were dremelled out (leaving the back supported) and outer excess trimmed and sanded, leaving a section to hold the wheel while painting. When dry the rest was removed and a stand-off piece glued to the inside center. Bit rough but it was an experiment to try and make one without soldering.
Instrument panels were made from thin coloured Formica (a sample swatch which just happened to be lying on my drive after lots of wind and rain recently?? just the colour I needed!) and drilled with spur drills to get a neat hole. Found some pics of Gauges on line and reduced and printed them. Cut them roughly to size, glued them in position on some printing paper, then glued some Acetate sheet to each Formica panel, and glued that over the 'gauges'
Console will be painted below the stained ply top section. The console is removable to enable the floor panels to be lifted, and it also hides a few wires to the receivers which come out of the floor. Throttle quadrant is just painted balsa with 2 glass headed pins glued in and painted. When finished it will be trimmed off the square stock and applied to the dash.
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Just a few more bits made,-dash console, instrument panels, wheel and name decals. Wheel was made by gluing (thick cyno) a large thin fibre washer on to a strip of acetate sheet, then gluing the spokes and center on next, When set, the center segments were dremelled out (leaving the back supported) and outer excess trimmed and sanded, leaving a section to hold the wheel while painting. When dry the rest was removed and a stand-off piece glued to the inside center. Bit rough but it was an experiment to try and make one without soldering.
Instrument panels were made from thin coloured Formica (a sample swatch which just happened to be lying on my drive after lots of wind and rain recently?? just the colour I needed!) and drilled with spur drills to get a neat hole. Found some pics of Gauges on line and reduced and printed them. Cut them roughly to size, glued them in position on some printing paper, then glued some Acetate sheet to each Formica panel, and glued that over the 'gauges'
Console will be painted below the stained ply top section. The console is removable to enable the floor panels to be lifted, and it also hides a few wires to the receivers which come out of the floor. Throttle quadrant is just painted balsa with 2 glass headed pins glued in and painted. When finished it will be trimmed off the square stock and applied to the dash.
Thanks for the comments guys! (did reply but replies have disappeared into the ether?)
Just a small addition to the previous post. Making the dash panel this way, also allows you to make a cutout behind the panel and backlight it, although you could apply a complete panel top over a cutout or framework and backlight it as well. Have put a demo pic up of my panels backlit over an LED torch.
JB
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Thanks for the comments guys! (did reply but replies have disappeared into the ether?)
Just a small addition to the previous post. Making the dash panel this way, also allows you to make a cutout behind the panel and backlight it, although you could apply a complete panel top over a cutout or framework and backlight it as well. Have put a demo pic up of my panels backlit over an LED torch.
JB
Hi JB,
You sir are a true master.
That is fantastic I love it.
Thanks to modern technology and the skills of the model makers these models are really looking like the real thing.
Trying to get everything working is challenging but the end result is well worth it.
Re Thanks to modern technology and the skills of the model makers.
Thanks martin but it's now down to two pairs of glasses and a head magnifier, + arthritis setting in doesn't help with the fine work. Was looking at some matchbox toys I 'hot-rodded' when I was about 11 and I remember using 1 hair from an artists brush to write on them and detail them (and you could read it clearly!)- no hope of doing that these days,- hands aren't quite as steady. I've said it before "old age sucks".
JB
Dash is all together and decals on.
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Thanks Red, getting there slowly. Started off with a hiss and a roar but having to wait a month for each accessory to come from China slows you down, (sometimes gets here in 2 or 3 weeks and then takes another week or so to travel the 20km from the airport to me, -customs,and 3 or 4 courier exchanges later, - frustrating)
The dashboards are always time consuming as trying to find decent clear pics that will scale down nicely can take forever (and of course trying to find gauges which would be used ie oil, water, battery, rev counter - to scale for the engines - ie diesel rev counters usually only go to around 4000rpm etc.) A lot of older boats didn't have speedos so that's 1 less you don't have to find (they just went by RPM)
I'm also having to do work on my house (ongoing project-10 yrs so far) so work on models takes a back seat at times. Just a few things to go, like boot topping on 1 side, a dinghy (which they carried on the cabin roof) and the rear cockpit canvas cover. Windows just have to be glued on and a few small things (make the cleats larger) and that will be about it.
JB
The sounds are proportional, from starting to full throttle and are all WAV sounds which seem to be split up into small 'samples' and as such, some are not quite linear but are useable.
There are 2 different models, One is the 'GT Power' sound and lights model - version 2 (the better I think) which comes with all the pre wired and plugged LEDs needed for a car, (h/l, t/l, indicators etc) and comes as a module and separate speaker, (you can plug 2 speakers into this module for better sound). The other model is the 'GT Power' Car Engine Sound 'mini' which is just the sound module and speaker in one box.
This works the same as the version 2 model but at present I'm having a problem with the Mini, which has the wrong model for USB adjustment installed, (sounds can be selected manually on the module but when you plug the module into the comp and open the module control panel, it's for the wrong model, - sound files are still viewable though) I'll have to contact GT Power for a fix (going by their on line help page, they seem quite ready to sort problems out and give solutions)
Cost is around $56 NZ for the version 2, and around $ 51 for the 'Mini' version which is comparable to most other sound units available, but with more features than some. Apparently, if you send the GT Power tech/help guy a complete WAV sound file (ie, start, idle, and steady slow acceleration to full and back they will make a sound file for your unit and email it back to you,(yet to try but would be brilliant if true)
Units are sold on Ebay, Ali Express and Banggood (and many other model shops) and it's worth shopping around all of them, as there are big price differences. These are also sold as GOOL RC sound units but are made by GT Power. ( http://www.gt-rc.com/en/msgBoard.jsp ) You will see the home page on there.
I use a number of their products such as battery chargers, rev counters, battery checkers etc and all seem very reliable and work well. I don't think they sell direct, but they are sold everywhere.
For Rooky Sailors benefit, the motors are Gool RC 540-45T 7.4V brushed car motors which have ball bearings and replaceable brushes (motor is rebuildable). Haven't tried them on the water yet, but the 45T (12000rpm) should be tourqy enough (different turn Nos are available)
John B
John B