Cabin partly painted, (tops to paint), mast painted with LED riding light fitted. Second sound unit turned up and both now fitted and working, (with as near as I can find to Detroit 4-53s as fitted to this boat, in the programmed choices). Inner hull in cockpit and some interior painted and steering servo fitted. Props painted bronze (art acrylic metallic).
Still waiting for shaft collars for the motor end of the shafts and some nice little shaft oiler cans (far easier than trying to make them). They have arrived in the country so shouldn't be too long. Off to get some paint tomorrow for the cabin tops and deck, also I have to fit the cockpit side battens which I've already stained and cut. Once the cabin's painted I can fit the windows and grab rails as the stanchions have arrived from CMB.
Going to make a quick vid later, showing the sound units operating etc. Still have bow roller and a number of smaller details to go, such as tidying the waterline with a black boot topping and making the name decals (if my printer stops mucking about, - almost time for a new one)! Also have to do the nav, cabin and stern lights, ( have ordered a small adjustable voltage reg to adjust lights. Remote switch for lights is already fitted.

These are the twin GT Power sound units in the HSL (can't put 2 links in the same post)

These are the twin GT Power sound units in the ST. The volume is turned down on one unit as you can hear on start up and end of the vid.

Deck and cabin tops painted, grab rails done, mooring post, bow roller, fairleads and anti slip strips on engine boxes (wet and dry strips) done.
To do, - tidy waterline, fit lights (remote switch already fitted) hook servo to steering rod, fit out wheelhouse and fit windows, (already cut), and fit cockpit strakes. Also have to fit upstands /internal coamings to keep any water out. I'll have to sort a way of locating the coamings, (probably wedges and pins, as the coamings drop down and slide back (about 40mm) into position.
Getting there slowly.

Nav lights, riding light, rear cockpit light all done and set to whatever I want to come on (riding light, cabin lights, cockpit light, nav lights, all lights etc) with a micro rotary switch, (with mahogany trim) in the rear cockpit. Lighting comes on with a remote switch. Made the nav light boards from mahogany and the rear cockpit strakes from stained hardwood.
Re-arranged the plumbing to give a bit more room but the wiring was a mission to hide as each Neg from each set or single LED had to go back to the selector (plus 1 Pos feed) so it looks like spaghetti junction on the cabin roof. Also had to run a separate wire from the stern light to join up with the main loom in the cabin (both power and stern light connect by 2 JST connectors)
Could have done away with a lot of bits by using my 9X TX, but would have had to convert it to twin throttles, but I still use that for planes. You seldom need the lights on as who runs at night.? I tried it a few months back with the HSL and had to steer by nav lights - bit scary - can hear it (twin sound units) but real hard to see. I did a video but you can't see much.

Trying to finish by the end of the alphabet. Plumbing sorted, shaft oiler cans arrived today (very nice) and fitted, ESC on/off switches changed to toggle from slide, twin RXs (in the bow) and twin remote switches (lights and pump), steering servo fitted and hooked up ( by cable from in front of Stbd motor)
Twin RXs required as the mini (self contained sound unit was getting back voltage from the REC the way it's plugged in ) - had other sound unit plugged in as well which is wired differently and has more options, but they were fighting each other and the mini would not start with sound OFF - (ran as soon as you turned the ESC on). Mini now has own REC.
A bit more painting and trimming to do and wheelhouse fit out, but she's almost ready to throw in the water and see if she's a witch (ref Monty Python, The Holy Grail)

Didn't quite make it by Z but what the hell. Thought I'd throw a small bit of progress in as there seems to be a bit of a building lull lately. Made the rear wheelhouse partition and 'louvre' door, and 4 cleats, which I think look too small (ran out larger of brass rod) but are made with the vertical stem going through the washer as a pin, and are not yet glued in.
Finished the rear cockpit trimming and internal water diverting coamings, and done one side of the boot topping to try and tidy up the waterline, (the masking tape all seems to be crap and bleeds - unless you want to spend $18 for 'professional' stuff which is probably just as bad!) Hard to find thin trimming tape these days as well, so have to cut your own to go round tight curves.
Used to use thin dope to seal the edges years ago (on coloured doped aircraft) but will melt the acrylic and leave a raised edge, which I won't be painting up to. You have to do a number of really light coats if you want to stop it bleeding, and run a blunt tool along the edge really firmly beforehand (still not good enough really). Could have used pin-striping tape but that leaves a raised stripe (scale waterline would be about 1"thick) also $15 a roll with 90% left over (bit of a waste).
I also roughly superimposed the model on the original photo to see how it compared. The original is a late model MK 1 narrow hull, but I went with the Mk 2 41'6" version with the longer wider hull (to have more internal room to play with) but with the coamings, masts etc of the original.
The MK 2 has a more pronounced 'Clipper' bow with more flare and is wider 'midships' but the wheelhouse is pretty similar. There ain't no one to worry about the accuracy these days as there are few good photos of the original (pretty well just mine and a friends fuzzy super 8 captures) so it's just a rough crack at it (also using a bit of the old 'poetic license').
Will email a pic to the current owner when I've finished and see what he thinks. Just have dash and wheel to do now (I think - bound to have missed something) Oh, that's right, - the rear cockpit canvas and dinghy! (I knew that😁)

Just a few more bits made,-dash console, instrument panels, wheel and name decals. Wheel was made by gluing (thick cyno) a large thin fibre washer on to a strip of acetate sheet, then gluing the spokes and center on next, When set, the center segments were dremelled out (leaving the back supported) and outer excess trimmed and sanded, leaving a section to hold the wheel while painting. When dry the rest was removed and a stand-off piece glued to the inside center. Bit rough but it was an experiment to try and make one without soldering.
Instrument panels were made from thin coloured Formica (a sample swatch which just happened to be lying on my drive after lots of wind and rain recently?? just the colour I needed!) and drilled with spur drills to get a neat hole. Found some pics of Gauges on line and reduced and printed them. Cut them roughly to size, glued them in position on some printing paper, then glued some Acetate sheet to each Formica panel, and glued that over the 'gauges'
Console will be painted below the stained ply top section. The console is removable to enable the floor panels to be lifted, and it also hides a few wires to the receivers which come out of the floor. Throttle quadrant is just painted balsa with 2 glass headed pins glued in and painted. When finished it will be trimmed off the square stock and applied to the dash.

Thanks for the comments guys! (did reply but replies have disappeared into the ether?)
Just a small addition to the previous post. Making the dash panel this way, also allows you to make a cutout behind the panel and backlight it, although you could apply a complete panel top over a cutout or framework and backlight it as well. Have put a demo pic up of my panels backlit over an LED torch.
JB

Dash is all together and decals on.