The main mast wiring has now been finished off. The wiring "capping" is secure and sealed down on the top of the mast, behind the radar motor. the cables run neatly down inside the 2 cable trunks, either side of the mast posts and I have slipped some heatshrink tube over the cables where they "loop" out of the cable trunks to allow for the flex needed when the original mast is lowered/raised for boathouse height.

Rigged the lights up temporarily, just to see what it could well look like.
This includes standard nav lights, twin search lights, forward flood/deck lamps, deck lights and stern light.

I have now made up the initial main electrical control panel. This first, covers over the electrical boards underneath, but then provides a base for the main control switches for the boat power and some of the lighting switches. I decided not to control these via remote, not really much point, as this way it is simply as quick as returning the boat to harbour, opening a hatch, flicking a switch and sailing off again.
The master power switch sits below the forward engine deck hatch, the second "side" hatch contains the switches for: Sound, nav lights, search lights and deck lights [so far]. These sit in a raised box, so the switch tips are just below hatch level when opened, so no having to reach deep inside and being too fiddly to operate.

The upper cabin wiring has been installed too and the main wiring loom bonded in place to prevent any chafing problems during use, sufficient "end length" has been left at the ends of the cables to allow for connection replacement in "later life" too. I don't believe in "cut to length", you all need backup, or it means you either have to solder in an extension piece or replace a complete wire if a connector breaks or fails later on.
The cable harnes was run so it drops down to a 9 pin plug/socket, mounted just behind the switch panel, so it is easily plugged/ unplugged if I need to remove the superstructure completely.

These were made up from solid styrene rod, heated at both ends in turn and bent to a rounded profile. the shorter "joiner bars" had their ends filed with a round file to match the diameter of the main bar, so once pushed through their holes from inside the cabin, they closely matched the radius of the main bar and made for easier bonding with plasticweld.
The styrene rods were cut to suit, inside the cabin and then bonded in place with some stabilit express.

A real challenge of shapes and angles on first looks, but once you split it down, its not that bad.
I chose to make mine up from a piece of styrene sheet for the centre piece and simply bond a piece of styrene strip around its outer edge to add the "angle " bit. A lot of photo's were studied first, then measurements taken from the RNLI plans and transfered to some plain paper to make the templates. Once happy with the templates, they were used to then mark out on the styrene sheet. The inner "core" was then carefully scored and cut out of the main member, leaving the "base" piece till last to be cut away so the side pieces did not fracture or bend away from the knife blade.

Once all the parts have been cut and test fitted, its time to start putting it all together. The main frame is checked for squareness before allowing to bond fully, then the outer frame edge is bonded on. the final stages are to drill the holes for the pins and eye bars. I added some small chain to the locking pins after painting.

Have now added the release pin chains and given a coat of paint, prior to fitting to the deck plate

the base was made from plasticard sheet for the top plate and strip for the sides. it was assembled and left for the glu to fully dry, before sanding the underside, so it matches the curve of the stern deck.

I have searched the internet and quite a few sites, looking for some suitable scale size inserts to fit the tow cables to make the towing "eyes", but to no avail. So, to keep the weight down, rather than make from brass or alloy [which also would take a lot of careful machining], I used some thick styrene strip, First drilled a few pilot holes to make the interior hole slot,then cut to a suitable length. Then by careful filing and sanding the internal slot was formed. then the exterior groove" was filed out using a small round file. The galvanised steel cable was then wrapped round the insert and bound in thread before a final coating in epoxy to seal and fix it tight.