I decided to use a "Mac's Mouldings" resin cast item, for this one, but with a slight modification. rather than use the original moulded base, which seemed too thick, I cut this off the post and sanded smooth, then made a revised base plate from styrene. I drilled the base to allow the tow post to drop through the base, allowig a hole to be "cross drilled" through it. this acts as an anchor pin for the tow post, once a suitable pin is bonded in. One additional thing I "should" of done to the deck, was to cut the slots for the "cross pin" at 90 degrees to the actual pin, so you have to "turn" the post first as you put in place, then rotate back to correct position, thus acting as a 2second locking device" to keep it in the deck, if ever used as a proper tow post for another boat recovery! Lesson learn't for the next one. 👍
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I decided to use a "Mac's Mouldings" resin cast item, for this one, but with a slight modification. rather than use the original moulded base, which seemed too thick, I cut this off the post and sanded smooth, then made a revised base plate from styrene. I drilled the base to allow the tow post to drop through the base, allowig a hole to be "cross drilled" through it. this acts as an anchor pin for the tow post, once a suitable pin is bonded in. One additional thing I "should" of done to the deck, was to cut the slots for the "cross pin" at 90 degrees to the actual pin, so you have to "turn" the post first as you put in place, then rotate back to correct position, thus acting as a 2second locking device" to keep it in the deck, if ever used as a proper tow post for another boat recovery! Lesson learn't for the next one. 👍
I decided to follow with the manufacture of these 2 items,from styrene too. Easy enough to gently heat up and form the curved edge around a wooden pencil, allowing sufficient time for it to cool before removing, otherwise it keeps on moving !
They were then both test fitted in place and the final cuts made to correct shape to the deck profile. Bonding securely in place with plasticweld.
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I decided to follow with the manufacture of these 2 items,from styrene too. Easy enough to gently heat up and form the curved edge around a wooden pencil, allowing sufficient time for it to cool before removing, otherwise it keeps on moving !
They were then both test fitted in place and the final cuts made to correct shape to the deck profile. Bonding securely in place with plasticweld.
Not an item for styrene, well not if you wish to make it operable that is. So I made a pattern up in styrene strip, then fabricated from brass strip for strength. this holds the twin wire tow strop cables up on the bows, untill needed for beach recovery by Tractor winch. the tow cables drop easily on to the 2 hooks and it is then tensioned as it lowers to the deck, where it locks in place to hold the cables secure.
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Not an item for styrene, well not if you wish to make it operable that is. So I made a pattern up in styrene strip, then fabricated from brass strip for strength. this holds the twin wire tow strop cables up on the bows, untill needed for beach recovery by Tractor winch. the tow cables drop easily on to the 2 hooks and it is then tensioned as it lowers to the deck, where it locks in place to hold the cables secure.
Just a few pictures to update the actual operation of the strop retainer handle. As you can see it hinges easily, even manages to lock itself in the "down" position, so no risk of anyone tripping over the cables!
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Just a few pictures to update the actual operation of the strop retainer handle. As you can see it hinges easily, even manages to lock itself in the "down" position, so no risk of anyone tripping over the cables!
Neat bit of metal work. The locking mechanism is very clever. I assume the handle stays locked due to the hinge geometry pulling the handle down when any pressure is placee on the cables. 👍
This small item took a lot of thought, its not something that has a lot of information, barring from picture Images. it is used in conjunction with the forward capstan in normal use, but has to be hinged, so the beaching tow cables can be released to recover the vessel, back on to the launching trailer.
The basic outer shell was made from styrene and gently heated to shape. I decided not to make the upper section hinged, far too fragile, not unless making in brass of course. The inner roller was formed from a piece of wooden dowel and sanded to form the cable groove.
The base of the roller assembly is hinged so the tow cables can be accessed, purely for "demonstration purposes".
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This small item took a lot of thought, its not something that has a lot of information, barring from picture Images. it is used in conjunction with the forward capstan in normal use, but has to be hinged, so the beaching tow cables can be released to recover the vessel, back on to the launching trailer.
The basic outer shell was made from styrene and gently heated to shape. I decided not to make the upper section hinged, far too fragile, not unless making in brass of course. The inner roller was formed from a piece of wooden dowel and sanded to form the cable groove.
The base of the roller assembly is hinged so the tow cables can be accessed, purely for "demonstration purposes".
Just an update to show the fixation of the tow cables on the strenghtened keel bar and the cutout in the bows.
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These are fitted to trailer launched boats only and protect the rubber fender and the sides of the hull from the trailer chains that hold the boat on. the chains are secured to the launching trailer and are held to the boat by a slip lock, more on the actual locks later....
The plates were simply formed from some styrene sheet, cut to approximate size and gently heated over a low flame to soften. Once the styrene was showing signs of softening, it was quickly shaped/formed around a wooden dowel and allowed to cool before removing from the former. They were then given a final trim with a sharp blade.
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These are fitted to trailer launched boats only and protect the rubber fender and the sides of the hull from the trailer chains that hold the boat on. the chains are secured to the launching trailer and are held to the boat by a slip lock, more on the actual locks later....
The plates were simply formed from some styrene sheet, cut to approximate size and gently heated over a low flame to soften. Once the styrene was showing signs of softening, it was quickly shaped/formed around a wooden dowel and allowed to cool before removing from the former. They were then given a final trim with a sharp blade.
A simple device thats actually works just as the full size version too!.
Built entirely from styrene, as again, "watching the weight" on the build, the main hook was made first from some 4mm styrene rod, the outer frame from sheet and a block for the base. As the upper [rearmost] head block is struck, it tilts backwards, releasing the chain hook, this letting the chain slip away and off the boat deck. Resetting afterwards is just as easy.
I will add that these are that strong, I use them to hold the boat down on its wheeled trolley. Well it saves damaging the railings throwing a webbing strap over the deck.
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A simple device thats actually works just as the full size version too!.
Built entirely from styrene, as again, "watching the weight" on the build, the main hook was made first from some 4mm styrene rod, the outer frame from sheet and a block for the base. As the upper [rearmost] head block is struck, it tilts backwards, releasing the chain hook, this letting the chain slip away and off the boat deck. Resetting afterwards is just as easy.
I will add that these are that strong, I use them to hold the boat down on its wheeled trolley. Well it saves damaging the railings throwing a webbing strap over the deck.
HI Gregg
Very neat work. I take it you are using Stablit to provide the joint strength? 👍 After all that work I'd be making a mould and casting the bits in fastcast resin for sale to other lifeboat enthusiasts. 😀 What's the final colour? I well know the problem with damage to railings. My Trent is a nightmare and I seem to be constantly repairing. I have now built an open coffin lined with insulation foam to transport using webbing straps. I think I will add two wheels at one end and a detachable handle at the other as I am ageing and weight lifting is no longer pleasant! 😰
I simply used plasticweld to join all the pieces of styene together, as it melts/fuses the styrene, rather than simply gluing it together.
I found that the white metal stanchions supplied via models by design/metcalf mouldings were way too fragile and contained too little lead for flexibility, they only had to "lean" in excess of 2 degrees and they snapped in half, so I made my own out of brass tube, as these will take the odd knock and still allow you to straighten them back. The tow rails are styrene strip, so again, if knocked, it only take a little more plastic weld and they are back on again in place in seconds. I did think about using alloy angle strip............ but only "thought" as this too is too brittle and would not take any "reworking" if bent.
My secondhand golf bag trolley works fine for transporting the Mersey around, plus it holds the boat at a nice working height when changing batteries etc.
Once the blocks have fully dried, time to mount them to the base plates made earlier, the plates were painted stainless steel colour ,especially on the underside prior to fitting as unable to get the paintbrush in later, due to the rubber buffer strip.
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Once the blocks have fully dried, time to mount them to the base plates made earlier, the plates were painted stainless steel colour ,especially on the underside prior to fitting as unable to get the paintbrush in later, due to the rubber buffer strip.
The later version Mersey Class use or rather are "equipped" with a pair of anchors, stowed in close order to each other on the forward deck behind the capstan. These, like almost everything else are made from Styrene sheet. I managed to source some nice templates off some taymar spec sheets I found on the web, but whereas these were folded out of brass sheet, I simply copied to styrene sheet and then folded to shape and glued. The styrene gives just as sharp and edge as brass but at a significant weight reduction.. Once painted you would hardly know anyway.
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The later version Mersey Class use or rather are "equipped" with a pair of anchors, stowed in close order to each other on the forward deck behind the capstan. These, like almost everything else are made from Styrene sheet. I managed to source some nice templates off some taymar spec sheets I found on the web, but whereas these were folded out of brass sheet, I simply copied to styrene sheet and then folded to shape and glued. The styrene gives just as sharp and edge as brass but at a significant weight reduction.. Once painted you would hardly know anyway.
