Current project

Started by Ronald
11 replies 73 likes Last activity: 3 months ago
#12

Current project

Acrylic paint has been used on the hull and deck structures. Wheelhouse, hatch covers, and other parts.

Several applications of Minwax Polycrylic were applied after the paint was dry.

Pleased with the results.
Liked by jbkiwi and chugalone100 and
#11

Current project

Hi Ron thanks for sharing great looking models. I have just ordered the Jim Pottinger book Fishing boats of Scotland.

I found contacting the Scottish Fisheries museum very helpful and friendly. I think it needs to get on my Bucket List!
All the best
Roy
Liked by Ronald and hermank
#10

Current project

Roy

I took these pictures of various fishing boats on display at the Museum in Wicks, Scotland.
Liked by chugalone100 and hermank and
#9

Current project

Hi Ron thanks for those pictures I have saved the one on blocks in my archive. Never thought of sailing my ones on sails, I think it would need to be a bigger version to do this successfully.

I originally had the 2 boats on a 4 ch. Tx. with just 2 ch in use in each boat. The idea was to sail them together but I found this extremely difficult. My right hand worked fine but my left had no idea, there were several collisions! They now have separate controls and I pass one over to a friend so we can run together.

I have another fishing boat, it is the Ring netter from the the book Plank on Frame Models Vol.2. by Harold A Underhill. Boat registered as CN 992, but this is fictional.

She looks good on the water and I am looking for a crew for her. I did not build her but found her on Gumtree ( another ebay) she was a decorative model and I gave her a new life on the water. At £20 I thought she was too good to pass by, and she was kindly shipped from Scotland by the seller. We had exchanged friendly emails about her and I sent her photos of her on the water, which she liked.
She is bread and butter built and leaked like a sieve until it was attended to.
Roy
Liked by Northernflotsam and chugalone100 and
#6

Current project

Roy

Yes, it is a Billings kit Mary Ann, that will carry the name of my daughter, Corinna Mae.

It is being modelled as a retired fishing vessel by removing the fishing gear and adding personalized features.

I have researched these old vessels and found many had been fixed up to be a families boat.

The Norwegian vessel, Selma, now part of a museum display is one of them. The previous owner, John Audun Hauge, supplied me with drawings, a sail plan, and sketches. He said my model is a “Kryser”, meaning the rudder is under the aft of the ship and the rudder stem comes up through the aft deck. Selma has the rudder hinged to the aft stem.

Various people have added their comments and all is appreciated.

Thanks for sharing Royc, have you sailed your models using just the sails?

Pondering it!
Liked by Mike Stoney and DuncanP and
#5

Current project

Hi Ron is this a Billing Mary Ann kit? I have 2 and they are a joy to sail. I have a 3rd. kit, unstarted except for the frames and keel, I hope it will get finished.

There are many 1:35 scale figures available. I have used the army figures with torso and limbs separate as these are versatile to any position. I think there are 3 crew, there are pictures in 'My Harbour'.

The kit has been on the market for 65 years and has had many upgrades and now costs 12 times what it was at the start. The Cux 87 Krabbencutter in the series, uses the same hull.

The photo shows the 2 together, they are both the same kit! Just that one of them is slowly sinking! It was water creeping in around the hole where the prop tube was alegedly glued in place.
Roy
Liked by chugalone100 and DuncanP and
#4

Current project

Hi Ron, great job. The new recruit gave you great advice.
If you'd like an overview of how to control LEDs with a resistor, adjust the current, and thus the correct brightness, you can see these posts from older threads.
However, remember: when choosing a (correct) parallel connection, as in your case, the currents are added for each LED you add (LED-resistor branch), so if you add additional LEDs, be careful about the total current in the circuit. The batteries (or a BEC or other type of power supply) must be able to supply it adequately. Logically, in your case, with a current draw of 18-20 mA per LED, and therefore a total of 40 mA, you shouldn't have any problems.

https://model-boats.com/forum/135645

https://model-boats.com/forum/138041
Liked by chugalone100 and DuncanP and
#3

Current project

With the help of one of our new recruits, jss4 🇨🇦, I was able to understand what resistors to begin with and decrease the brightness of the spotlight.

Happy to be able to install 3mm LED lights, running the wires and solder the wires.james said to put a resistor in each circuit and not link them all upon one wire.

The Green wires are all linked as one, though the Red wires all have the resistors before they were jointed to the positive side.
Liked by DuncanP and EdW and
#2

Current project

Today has been learning to solder thin wires to 3mm LED’s

Switching out bulbs and replacing them 3mm LED in spotlights

Working now on installing the navigation lights, testing the voltage on a BEC off my receiver.

Next will be trying various Resistors to get the desired lighting strength for the various locations.
Liked by EdW and DWBrinkman and
#1

Current project

I’m at a point where the lighting is to be installed, going for LED lighting on this build. New for me.

Kit is 1:33 scale

The rubber army figure is only for reference being 1:35
Liked by Mike Stoney and Wolle and

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