I have been using a plastic cord which stretches and does the job., it is round section and about 1mm in diameter. When you position the cords on the drum, make the elastic return on the top drum. This is so when it gets a bit stretched and the winch lines slacken a bit, then you can easily wind an extra turn on the drum.
Roy
I have been using a plastic cord which stretches and does the job., it is round section and about 1mm in diameter. When you position the cords on the drum, make the elastic return on the top drum. This is so when it gets a bit stretched and the winch lines slacken a bit, then you can easily wind an extra turn on the drum.
Roy
I don't know if you can access this web-site from France but it stocks spares for the yachts I mentioned including the sheeting elastic, not elastic bands! It is used on deck to tension the sheets.
https://www.radiosailing.co.uk/dragonforce-65-boat-spares-187-c.asp
I don't know if you can access this web-site from France but it stocks spares for the yachts I mentioned including the sheeting elastic, not elastic bands! It is used on deck to tension the sheets.
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
HI guys, thanks for the great response. I have attached a couple of photos of the below decks set-up. It is a very rough set-up as I determine what the final layout will be. I will then make something a little more presentable. My intention was to use a drum winch (Hi-tech 785HB) driving a linear rail which will pull-in or let out both the main sheet and the jib sheet. Where the sheets are different lengths (jib shorter than main) I will use a pulley reduction together with sheet attachment points to give the correct ratio of reduction to match fix length of travel of the rail. It was this set-up that led me to consider a lead screw arrangement. Speed of winching is not so important as I will not be racing. I have already installed tubes as sheet leads to try to improve 'loose string' control and will explore lightweight rubber bands to reduce it further. My rudder servo is a Hi-tech 300 and will be installed later, once the sail control issues are sorted.
Thanks again for the help and advice. This boat has been a long time in the planning and is still going slow as is my restoration of a Triumph GT6.
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HI guys, thanks for the great response. I have attached a couple of photos of the below decks set-up. It is a very rough set-up as I determine what the final layout will be. I will then make something a little more presentable. My intention was to use a drum winch (Hi-tech 785HB) driving a linear rail which will pull-in or let out both the main sheet and the jib sheet. Where the sheets are different lengths (jib shorter than main) I will use a pulley reduction together with sheet attachment points to give the correct ratio of reduction to match fix length of travel of the rail. It was this set-up that led me to consider a lead screw arrangement. Speed of winching is not so important as I will not be racing. I have already installed tubes as sheet leads to try to improve 'loose string' control and will explore lightweight rubber bands to reduce it further. My rudder servo is a Hi-tech 300 and will be installed later, once the sail control issues are sorted.
Thanks again for the help and advice. This boat has been a long time in the planning and is still going slow as is my restoration of a Triumph GT6.
As far as the mechanism goes to operate the sails, I have used very successfully a length of dowel with all attached, which can be taken out in one piece to 'service' through a hatch. So, a pulley can be placed at the far end, which might otherwise be difficult to reach.
For a winch system which is previously described and they work well, elastic is needed to keep the tension on the cord that goes around the drum. Do not connect a sheet to this side of the cord!
Good luck
Roy
As far as the mechanism goes to operate the sails, I have used very successfully a length of dowel with all attached, which can be taken out in one piece to 'service' through a hatch. So, a pulley can be placed at the far end, which might otherwise be difficult to reach.
For a winch system which is previously described and they work well, elastic is needed to keep the tension on the cord that goes around the drum. Do not connect a sheet to this side of the cord!
Unless you can find a very coarse thread for a lead screw like 1 turn moves 1/4 of an inch, some plastic threads are like that. It is all far too slow no matter what speed the motor runs at!
For least amount of string use an arm winch, you may get away with a metal geared 12kgrm or more servo, plus an arm you will need to attach to a servo top.
Have you sorted the internals of a yacht before?
Roy
Unless you can find a very coarse thread for a lead screw like 1 turn moves 1/4 of an inch, some plastic threads are like that. It is all far too slow no matter what speed the motor runs at!
For least amount of string use an arm winch, you may get away with a metal geared 12kgrm or more servo, plus an arm you will need to attach to a servo top.
Have you sorted the internals of a yacht before?
Roy
Welcome Henri.
There is another option using a drum and that is to have a continous loop with the sheet (stringy bits - like it!) attached to it).
I've got to do the sails installation on one of my builds and did consider something else which is a linear servo that Hitec make. They are quite expensive but fancied giving one a go. Didn't in the end as they take up a lot of room lengthways and even the one with the most movement would require a pulley to increase the overall movement.
So I’ve bought a Kingmax Sail Winch Servo which are a popular choice and available in different numbers of turns.
Whatever method is used elastic can be used to keep the sheet under tension (as per the DF65 and 95 yachts) and reduce the chance of snagging.
Alternatively, below deck, as you mentioned for the linear screw, you can always run the sheet through a metal or plastic tube until it exits the deck.
Chris
There is another option using a drum and that is to have a continous loop with the sheet (stringy bits - like it!) attached to it).
I've got to do the sails installation on one of my builds and did consider something else which is a linear servo that Hitec make. They are quite expensive but fancied giving one a go. Didn't in the end as they take up a lot of room lengthways and even the one with the most movement would require a pulley to increase the overall movement.
So I’ve bought a Kingmax Sail Winch Servo which are a popular choice and available in different numbers of turns.
Whatever method is used elastic can be used to keep the sheet under tension (as per the DF65 and 95 yachts) and reduce the chance of snagging.
Alternatively, below deck, as you mentioned for the linear screw, you can always run the sheet through a metal or plastic tube until it exits the deck.
Chris
Scratch building 7 Faireys at a scale of 1:12 and also have 2 built by Dave Milbourn
Hi All, new here and in the process of building model yacht. ! metre in length, bilge keel, class, type, designation unknown. The bare hull sat in the garden for more than ten years and then in my wife's workroom for a further 5 years so I thought I ought to do something with it. Fitted new deck and topsides and fabricated the mast assembly.
Having looked at the options for RC sail control there appear to be only two basic options, drum or lever (with variations) but all seem to have lots of string kicking around in the cabin. Has anyone ever considered or tried a linear lead-screw arrangement which can be shielded and can keep all the stringy bits under greater control. This would be driven by a separate motor controlled by the RC and the lead-screw can be by single lead, twin lead or even triple lead depending on sheeting speed required.
Any thoughts appreciated.
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Hi All, new here and in the process of building model yacht. ! metre in length, bilge keel, class, type, designation unknown. The bare hull sat in the garden for more than ten years and then in my wife's workroom for a further 5 years so I thought I ought to do something with it. Fitted new deck and topsides and fabricated the mast assembly.
Having looked at the options for RC sail control there appear to be only two basic options, drum or lever (with variations) but all seem to have lots of string kicking around in the cabin. Has anyone ever considered or tried a linear lead-screw arrangement which can be shielded and can keep all the stringy bits under greater control. This would be driven by a separate motor controlled by the RC and the lead-screw can be by single lead, twin lead or even triple lead depending on sheeting speed required.
Any thoughts appreciated.
