I used to live in West Bromwich and regularly made the trip to Walsall to SH Graingers to lust over the 36" Black Cigarette they had in the window. I remember the Surfury being available to scratch build on MAP plans and I was put off as it was a planked hull so never made one. Nice models, especially like the Irvine powered boat, nothing like the smell and noise of a 10cc glowplug engine at full tilt.
I used to live in West Bromwich and regularly made the trip to Walsall to SH Graingers to lust over the 36" Black Cigarette they had in the window. I remember the Surfury being available to scratch build on MAP plans and I was put off as it was a planked hull so never made one. Nice models, especially like the Irvine powered boat, nothing like the smell and noise of a 10cc glowplug engine at full tilt.
Built out of house guttering to a scale equivalent to model railways HO the layout is approx. 4 x 3 ft. Mounted in a wooden frame and provided with a protective see through cover it fits into the car and can go anywhere. it has been an on-going project to build RC boats to suit. Those used at present are commercial products (loa 5" (125mm)) with simple two channel two prop drives - not proportional but with forward and reverse and by operating one or both props plus reverse steering is OK. Battery life limited to 6-8 minutes with similar recharge time. Built largely from scrap and odds and ends the project cost well under £80. The idea is/was to have several units and link them together to make a large layout!
{"text":"Built out of house guttering to a scale equivalent to model railways HO the layout is approx. 4 x 3 ft. Mounted in a wooden frame and provided with a protective see through cover it fits into the car and can go anywhere. it has been an on-going project to build RC boats to suit. Those used at present are commercial products (loa 5\" (125mm)) with simple two channel two prop drives - not proportional but with forward and reverse and by operating one or both props plus reverse steering is OK. Battery life limited to 6-8 minutes with similar recharge time. Built largely from scrap and odds and ends the project cost well under \u00a380. The idea is/was to have several units and link them together to make a large layout!","subject":"Tabletop Waterway - literally!","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kRfzgPdYPR0"}
Built out of house guttering to a scale equivalent to model railways HO the layout is approx. 4 x 3 ft. Mounted in a wooden frame and provided with a protective see through cover it fits into the car and can go anywhere. it has been an on-going project to build RC boats to suit. Those used at present are commercial products (loa 5" (125mm)) with simple two channel two prop drives - not proportional but with forward and reverse and by operating one or both props plus reverse steering is OK. Battery life limited to 6-8 minutes with similar recharge time. Built largely from scrap and odds and ends the project cost well under £80. The idea is/was to have several units and link them together to make a large layout!
RTR minI electric speed boat with proportional 2CH RC. 280mm loa (11")
Good boat and fast. Watercooled brushed motor. Normal problem with commercial mini-boats is lack of proportional RC but this is fine. Battery life about ten minutes - low freeboard and takes on water but electrics/RC have proven resistant to regular swamping!
{"text":"RTR minI electric speed boat with proportional 2CH RC. 280mm loa (11\")\n\nGood boat and fast. Watercooled brushed motor. Normal problem with commercial mini-boats is lack of proportional RC but this is fine. Battery life about ten minutes - low freeboard and takes on water but electrics/RC have proven resistant to regular swamping!","subject":"Magic Vee (Joysway)","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_35QnTKtlxw"}
RTR minI electric speed boat with proportional 2CH RC. 280mm loa (11")
Good boat and fast. Watercooled brushed motor. Normal problem with commercial mini-boats is lack of proportional RC but this is fine. Battery life about ten minutes - low freeboard and takes on water but electrics/RC have proven resistant to regular swamping!
I liked your boat. I also have an 11 inch boat with an extended exterior rudder that brings the length to 13 inches. Mabe the exterior ruder helps to keep water out of the boat this sort of rudder is seen on gas boats in usa.
I liked your boat. I also have an 11 inch boat with an extended exterior rudder that brings the length to 13 inches. Mabe the exterior ruder helps to keep water out of the boat this sort of rudder is seen on gas boats in usa.
Based on a footy length scow this 6" hull (ie half footy!) has 2CH RC (rudder and mainsail). 140gms (
{"text":"Based on a footy length scow this 6\" hull (ie half footy!) has 2CH RC (rudder and mainsail). 140gms (","subject":"Micro sail","media":[{"id":"1364844613","name":"1364844613.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1364844613/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1364844613/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1364844528","name":"1364844528.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1364844528/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1364844528/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1364844490","name":"1364844490.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1364844490/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1364844490/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1364844378","name":"1364844378.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1364844378/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1364844378/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
Just to tell you that I really like your minI Schooner and it seem to sail well also- I have often toyed with the idea of building a footie but so far hav'nt got around to it - keep up the good work
Best wishes
Markone
Hello there
Just to tell you that I really like your minI Schooner and it seem to sail well also- I have often toyed with the idea of building a footie but so far hav'nt got around to it - keep up the good work
Best wishes
Markone
Hi, Thanks. Go for the footy! While this was fun to build there aren't that many days when I get a good sail out of this one. The wind close to the water is very awkward and models need to be tall (in proportion to the length) which makes 'scale' models indifferent sailors. Still worth building but a footy (in all its forms) provides a greater range of good sailing conditions.
I have a scale footy Thames Sailing Barge (scratch built to my own design) and while good it to can't compete with Footy Class boats for the variety of conditions that are good for sailing.
Regards,
Capn Jim.
Hi, Thanks. Go for the footy! While this was fun to build there aren't that many days when I get a good sail out of this one. The wind close to the water is very awkward and models need to be tall (in proportion to the length) which makes 'scale' models indifferent sailors. Still worth building but a footy (in all its forms) provides a greater range of good sailing conditions.
I have a scale footy Thames Sailing Barge (scratch built to my own design) and while good it to can't compete with Footy Class boats for the variety of conditions that are good for sailing.
Regards,
Capn Jim.
Standard wood drills (as in this photograph) work well for cutting neat, point centralised plastic-card port holes, as good as they do for wood or MFD etc. (instead of high-speed steel drills, which can end up a mess).
For clear plastic glazing to match these ports. I use circular punch's which cut neat clear round plastic glazing to fit, also for cutting round plastic-card for circular objects etc. I have found that it works better if punched with a hard hammer tap onto a flat hard-wood backing.
Photo examples and tools. These tools are both available on-line in sets between 3mm and 8mm.
{"text":"Standard wood drills (as in this photograph) work well for cutting neat, point centralised plastic-card port holes, as good as they do for wood or MFD etc. (instead of high-speed steel drills, which can end up a mess).\n\nFor clear plastic glazing to match these ports. I use circular punch's which cut neat clear round plastic glazing to fit, also for cutting round plastic-card for circular objects etc. I have found that it works better if punched with a hard hammer tap onto a flat hard-wood backing.\n\nPhoto examples and tools. These tools are both available on-line in sets between 3mm and 8mm.","subject":"Tools for cutting neat Port Holes and clear plastic glazing","media":[{"id":"1364815245","name":"1364815245.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1364815245/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1364815245/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
Tools for cutting neat Port Holes and clear plastic glazing
Standard wood drills (as in this photograph) work well for cutting neat, point centralised plastic-card port holes, as good as they do for wood or MFD etc. (instead of high-speed steel drills, which can end up a mess).
For clear plastic glazing to match these ports. I use circular punch's which cut neat clear round plastic glazing to fit, also for cutting round plastic-card for circular objects etc. I have found that it works better if punched with a hard hammer tap onto a flat hard-wood backing.
Photo examples and tools. These tools are both available on-line in sets between 3mm and 8mm.
I have found that a parallel ribbon cable from an old desktop computer (80 way type) are ideal for mast lights or working Radar etc. and can be glued down neatly.
The end connectors are easily removed without damaging the cable. it is possible to separate two or three insulated wires or however many wires or pairs you need to run to different areas of the hull or the superstructure.
For mast lights or radar etc, I found that wires in pairs are the best way to feed multiple pairs of wires up a mast tube etc. (It helps to feed wires through tubes with a dab of talcum powder to ease the wires through). I was able to run 4 pairs of these fine cables up a 3mm mast tube.
The wires are single strand insulated and easy to solder onto led's or bulbs with very fine heatshrink tubing to insulate. Because these wires are very fine the lights or radar supply should be fused at a low amperage rate. 250mA in my Tug.
{"text":"I have found that a parallel ribbon cable from an old desktop computer (80 way type) are ideal for mast lights or working Radar etc. and can be glued down neatly.\n \nThe end connectors are easily removed without damaging the cable. it is possible to separate two or three insulated wires or however many wires or pairs you need to run to different areas of the hull or the superstructure.\n\nFor mast lights or radar etc, I found that wires in pairs are the best way to feed multiple pairs of wires up a mast tube etc. (It helps to feed wires through tubes with a dab of talcum powder to ease the wires through). I was able to run 4 pairs of these fine cables up a 3mm mast tube.\n\nThe wires are single strand insulated and easy to solder onto led's or bulbs with very fine heatshrink tubing to insulate. Because these wires are very fine the lights or radar supply should be fused at a low amperage rate. 250mA in my Tug.","subject":"Mast Lighting fine parallel wires for mast lights or radar","media":[{"id":"1364752800","name":"1364752800.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1364752800/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1364752800/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
Mast Lighting fine parallel wires for mast lights or radar
I have found that a parallel ribbon cable from an old desktop computer (80 way type) are ideal for mast lights or working Radar etc. and can be glued down neatly.
The end connectors are easily removed without damaging the cable. it is possible to separate two or three insulated wires or however many wires or pairs you need to run to different areas of the hull or the superstructure.
For mast lights or radar etc, I found that wires in pairs are the best way to feed multiple pairs of wires up a mast tube etc. (It helps to feed wires through tubes with a dab of talcum powder to ease the wires through). I was able to run 4 pairs of these fine cables up a 3mm mast tube.
The wires are single strand insulated and easy to solder onto led's or bulbs with very fine heatshrink tubing to insulate. Because these wires are very fine the lights or radar supply should be fused at a low amperage rate. 250mA in my Tug.
a few of my boats I have
{"text":"a few of my boats I have","subject":"mixture","media":[{"id":"1364743164","name":"1364743164.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1364743164/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1364743164/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1364743592","name":"1364743592.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1364743592/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1364743592/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1364743549","name":"1364743549.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1364743549/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1364743549/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1364743454","name":"1364743454.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1364743454/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1364743454/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
my apache 56 ready to race this yr Im running a zen 7 at the moment
{"text":"my apache 56 ready to race this yr Im running a zen 7 at the moment","subject":"apache 56","media":[{"id":"1364743190","name":"1364743190.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1364743190/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1364743190/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1364743164","name":"1364743164.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1364743164/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1364743164/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1364743138","name":"1364743138.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1364743138/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1364743138/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1364743097","name":"1364743097.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1364743097/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1364743097/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
my apache 56 ready to race this yr Im running a zen 7 at the moment
Using a 3.7g micro-servo. it is possible to install this small unit within many of the existing model Radar parts or scratch built models to create a working model Radar setup.
Here is an example of one fitted to my RNLI Trent lifeboat. I am using the bottom of the servo housing to clamp this unit to the underside of the base of the kits Radar platform, this helped to reduce the overall height and to maintain the scale size.
These servos are available on eBay at £1.89 including postage from China or Hong Kong.
I found this easy to mount and I have kept the servo electronics, connecting this servo to a spare channel on the receiver. This enables the radar to rotated in both directs at adjustable speeds or just stopped. I usually have it adjust at slow : scale speed, setting this with the trim on the transmitter.
Photograph of working Radar installed into Trent RNLI model.
{"text":"Using a 3.7g micro-servo. it is possible to install this small unit within many of the existing model Radar parts or scratch built models to create a working model Radar setup.\n \nHere is an example of one fitted to my RNLI Trent lifeboat. I am using the bottom of the servo housing to clamp this unit to the underside of the base of the kits Radar platform, this helped to reduce the overall height and to maintain the scale size.\n \nThese servos are available on eBay at \u00a31.89 including postage from China or Hong Kong.\n \nI found this easy to mount and I have kept the servo electronics, connecting this servo to a spare channel on the receiver. This enables the radar to rotated in both directs at adjustable speeds or just stopped. I usually have it adjust at slow : scale speed, setting this with the trim on the transmitter.\n\nPhotograph of working Radar installed into Trent RNLI model.","subject":"RADAR using 3.7g micro servo","media":[{"id":"1365420244","name":"1365420244.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1365420244/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1365420244/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1364730114","name":"1364730114.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1364730114/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1364730114/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
Using a 3.7g micro-servo. it is possible to install this small unit within many of the existing model Radar parts or scratch built models to create a working model Radar setup.
Here is an example of one fitted to my RNLI Trent lifeboat. I am using the bottom of the servo housing to clamp this unit to the underside of the base of the kits Radar platform, this helped to reduce the overall height and to maintain the scale size.
These servos are available on eBay at £1.89 including postage from China or Hong Kong.
I found this easy to mount and I have kept the servo electronics, connecting this servo to a spare channel on the receiver. This enables the radar to rotated in both directs at adjustable speeds or just stopped. I usually have it adjust at slow : scale speed, setting this with the trim on the transmitter.
Photograph of working Radar installed into Trent RNLI model.
HI Dave
Yes the gear noise is a problem, tried to fill the gear box area with some light grease but not a good solution ..messy and too restrictive.
Going to only run the radar when under way, switching radar on via a mercury switch and the forward momentum. Noise not a problem that way and it won't wear out as quickly.
Thanks Ralph
HI Dave
Yes the gear noise is a problem, tried to fill the gear box area with some light grease but not a good solution ..messy and too restrictive.
Going to only run the radar when under way, switching radar on via a mercury switch and the forward momentum. Noise not a problem that way and it won't wear out as quickly.
Thanks Ralph
Built for the MMI Solar Boat Challenge a number of years ago and includes the winner (Amber Sol-air !) that had to complete as many circuits as possible of a canal system constructed out of household guttering in a fixed time. (the gutter naturally limited the size - loa, beam and draft). All built out of depron from my own head - with enough left over to build several more ?!
There are a number of ideas for propulsion - all powered by solar panels, no batteries. The pool is 12 feet diameter and great for boats of this size.
{"text":"Built for the MMI Solar Boat Challenge a number of years ago and includes the winner (Amber Sol-air !) that had to complete as many circuits as possible of a canal system constructed out of household guttering in a fixed time. (the gutter naturally limited the size - loa, beam and draft). All built out of depron from my own head - with enough left over to build several more ?!\n\nThere are a number of ideas for propulsion - all powered by solar panels, no batteries. The pool is 12 feet diameter and great for boats of this size.","subject":"Solar Boat Project","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrN3vW6HhuI"}
Built for the MMI Solar Boat Challenge a number of years ago and includes the winner (Amber Sol-air !) that had to complete as many circuits as possible of a canal system constructed out of household guttering in a fixed time. (the gutter naturally limited the size - loa, beam and draft). All built out of depron from my own head - with enough left over to build several more ?!
There are a number of ideas for propulsion - all powered by solar panels, no batteries. The pool is 12 feet diameter and great for boats of this size.
MMI ran the event in three different forms over two seasons (arond 2007/8) - a circular gutter track with as many circuits as possible and also 3 circuits in shortest time, then drag racing - straight track knock ot competition.
As far as I know they have no plans to do more. They were great fun and pulled a lo of interest, incuding from youngsters because they were simple and cheap - but actually delivered!
I have a number of build shots the Clyde Puffer build that I'll post.
Cap'n Jim.
HI Fireboat,
MMI ran the event in three different forms over two seasons (arond 2007/8) - a circular gutter track with as many circuits as possible and also 3 circuits in shortest time, then drag racing - straight track knock ot competition.
As far as I know they have no plans to do more. They were great fun and pulled a lo of interest, incuding from youngsters because they were simple and cheap - but actually delivered!
I have a number of build shots the Clyde Puffer build that I'll post.
Cap'n Jim.
Originally designed and prepared as a fun entry to the MMI Solar Boat Challenge.
Scratch designed and built of depron to run in standard house guttering - size and construction details on the video. There are a number of 'solar' boats on another video of several including the eventual winner of the challenge. inexpensive, fun and unsinkable!
{"text":"Originally designed and prepared as a fun entry to the MMI Solar Boat Challenge.\n\nScratch designed and built of depron to run in standard house guttering - size and construction details on the video. There are a number of 'solar' boats on another video of several including the eventual winner of the challenge. inexpensive, fun and unsinkable!","subject":"Solar boat - PS Sol Survivor","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qreCRno1vKU"}
Originally designed and prepared as a fun entry to the MMI Solar Boat Challenge.
Scratch designed and built of depron to run in standard house guttering - size and construction details on the video. There are a number of 'solar' boats on another video of several including the eventual winner of the challenge. inexpensive, fun and unsinkable!
Here is a Graupner Bremen 9 converted to represent a UK Police boat. She is called DEVA which is the Roman name for the county capital of Cheshire - Chester.
If the Cheshire Constabulary owned a vessel of the size of the original Bremen 9, I am reliably informed that the 'Battenburg' and transom diagonal stripes would be correct. The 'BA 07' lettering on the superstructure is also the correct national and regional code for the Cheshire Constabulary. The constabulary crest on the cabin doors however has now been superseded by a more modern constabulary logo that looks sh1te.
The RIB provided with the kit is too small and in my opinion not to scale; I will replace it at some point. The light bar and all other blue and navigation lights work off 9v batteries.
Chris M
{"text":"Here is a Graupner Bremen 9 converted to represent a UK Police boat. She is called DEVA which is the Roman name for the county capital of Cheshire - Chester.\n\nIf the Cheshire Constabulary owned a vessel of the size of the original Bremen 9, I am reliably informed that the 'Battenburg' and transom diagonal stripes would be correct. The 'BA 07' lettering on the superstructure is also the correct national and regional code for the Cheshire Constabulary. The constabulary crest on the cabin doors however has now been superseded by a more modern constabulary logo that looks sh1te.\nThe RIB provided with the kit is too small and in my opinion not to scale; I will replace it at some point. The light bar and all other blue and navigation lights work off 9v batteries.\nChris M","subject":"DEVA Cheshire Police boat","media":[{"id":"1364434580","name":"1364434580.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1364434580/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1364434580/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1364434518","name":"1364434518.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1364434518/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1364434518/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1364434475","name":"1364434475.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1364434475/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1364434475/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1364434452","name":"1364434452.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1364434452/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1364434452/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
Here is a Graupner Bremen 9 converted to represent a UK Police boat. She is called DEVA which is the Roman name for the county capital of Cheshire - Chester.
If the Cheshire Constabulary owned a vessel of the size of the original Bremen 9, I am reliably informed that the 'Battenburg' and transom diagonal stripes would be correct. The 'BA 07' lettering on the superstructure is also the correct national and regional code for the Cheshire Constabulary. The constabulary crest on the cabin doors however has now been superseded by a more modern constabulary logo that looks sh1te.
The RIB provided with the kit is too small and in my opinion not to scale; I will replace it at some point. The light bar and all other blue and navigation lights work off 9v batteries.
Chris M
