After about 6yrs of the model being 'laid up', I thought it was about time to get it back in 'survey' again, and get some better videos with new camera. Checked it over, cleaned the smoke system (glycerin mixture had separated) oiled everything up and off to the pond. Ran as well as ever and everything still worked which was pleasing.
For those who missed the build blog way back, the model is 36", glass over strip planked balsa, has twin 28mm 2000kv inrunners with twin 60A car escs, twin GT Power sound units, a smoke and water exhaust system (developed by myself and Graham 96, -which he and Mike Turpin successfully fitted to their excellent fireboats) and lighting. Uses 2 -2s 2200mah LiPos for the motors, and an 1800mah 2s LiPo for the air and water pumps.
Boat was shipped to the RNZAF in 1940 and was eventually sold to a private owner in the late 50s. It is still around in Auckland after suffering 3 major modifications to the coamings, and is now fully airconditioned, and can be operated from an I Pad. Today powered with a Detroit 8V96 in place of twin Grey Marine (Detroit) 671s, which replaced the 3 original Napier sea lions. Did 38knts with the 3 Napiers, (1500hp) and does 22knots today with a single 500hp Detroit. It was the only one of the 22 built to be sold in the southern hemisphere. The only other one running is HSL 102 in the UK
I have been on board once in 1968 when it was still in original form, and then again 50yrs later in its' present form.
JB
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jddfjpKjkJs
{"text":"After about 6yrs of the model being 'laid up', I thought it was about time to get it back in 'survey' again, and get some better videos with new camera. Checked it over, cleaned the smoke system (glycerin mixture had separated) oiled everything up and off to the pond. Ran as well as ever and everything still worked which was pleasing.\n\nFor those who missed the build blog way back, the model is 36\", glass over strip planked balsa, has twin 28mm 2000kv inrunners with twin 60A car escs, twin GT Power sound units, a smoke and water exhaust system (developed by myself and Graham 96, -which he and Mike Turpin successfully fitted to their excellent fireboats) and lighting. Uses 2 -2s 2200mah LiPos for the motors, and an 1800mah 2s LiPo for the air and water pumps.\n\nBoat was shipped to the RNZAF in 1940 and was eventually sold to a private owner in the late 50s. It is still around in Auckland after suffering 3 major modifications to the coamings, and is now fully airconditioned, and can be operated from an I Pad. Today powered with a Detroit 8V96 in place of twin Grey Marine (Detroit) 671s, which replaced the 3 original Napier sea lions. Did 38knts with the 3 Napiers, (1500hp) and does 22knots today with a single 500hp Detroit. It was the only one of the 22 built to be sold in the southern hemisphere. The only other one running is HSL 102 in the UK\n \nI have been on board once in 1968 when it was still in original form, and then again 50yrs later in its' present form.\n\nJB\nhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jddfjpKjkJs","subject":"Recommissioning the RC British Powerboat Co 64ft RNZAF HSL 'W1'","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jddfjpKjkJs"}
Recommissioning the RC British Powerboat Co 64ft RNZAF HSL 'W1'
After about 6yrs of the model being 'laid up', I thought it was about time to get it back in 'survey' again, and get some better videos with new camera. Checked it over, cleaned the smoke system (glycerin mixture had separated) oiled everything up and off to the pond. Ran as well as ever and everything still worked which was pleasing.
For those who missed the build blog way back, the model is 36", glass over strip planked balsa, has twin 28mm 2000kv inrunners with twin 60A car escs, twin GT Power sound units, a smoke and water exhaust system (developed by myself and Graham 96, -which he and Mike Turpin successfully fitted to their excellent fireboats) and lighting. Uses 2 -2s 2200mah LiPos for the motors, and an 1800mah 2s LiPo for the air and water pumps.
Boat was shipped to the RNZAF in 1940 and was eventually sold to a private owner in the late 50s. It is still around in Auckland after suffering 3 major modifications to the coamings, and is now fully airconditioned, and can be operated from an I Pad. Today powered with a Detroit 8V96 in place of twin Grey Marine (Detroit) 671s, which replaced the 3 original Napier sea lions. Did 38knts with the 3 Napiers, (1500hp) and does 22knots today with a single 500hp Detroit. It was the only one of the 22 built to be sold in the southern hemisphere. The only other one running is HSL 102 in the UK
I have been on board once in 1968 when it was still in original form, and then again 50yrs later in its' present form.
Fitted a new bottom skin fitting for the water pump pickup(air/water/exhaust smoke system) - removing the pickup from the jet, as flow stopped when the jet stopped. Fitted a new transom skin fitting (RH side transom) for the ESC cooler exit, and took the water from the jet pickup for the ESC cooler. Everything seems to work well now, with the ESC water flow increasing with throttle. Now for a test on a decent day, (has to start with the rain and wind now, doesn't it?☹️)
Set-up pics in blog,
{"text":"Fitted a new bottom skin fitting for the water pump pickup(air/water/exhaust smoke system) - removing the pickup from the jet, as flow stopped when the jet stopped. Fitted a new transom skin fitting (RH side transom) for the ESC cooler exit, and took the water from the jet pickup for the ESC cooler. Everything seems to work well now, with the ESC water flow increasing with throttle. Now for a test on a decent day, (has to start with the rain and wind now, doesn't it?\u2639\ufe0f)\n\nSet-up pics in blog,","subject":"HARTLEY FLARELINE, JET. MOTOR COOLING MODS","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpXR0zvId7w"}
Fitted a new bottom skin fitting for the water pump pickup(air/water/exhaust smoke system) - removing the pickup from the jet, as flow stopped when the jet stopped. Fitted a new transom skin fitting (RH side transom) for the ESC cooler exit, and took the water from the jet pickup for the ESC cooler. Everything seems to work well now, with the ESC water flow increasing with throttle. Now for a test on a decent day, (has to start with the rain and wind now, doesn't it?☹️)
A bit more refinement on the timing but getting there. Finally got the voltage regs from China to complete the system. A bit noisy, as the water pump is dry,- quietens down with water. Switches in stages using Grahams magic timer, - 1. smoke on, 2. water and air on. There is actually smoke running constantly at a reduced level once everything is running, but very hard to film. I could turn it up but I don't want it to look like it's on fire😂
{"text":"A bit more refinement on the timing but getting there. Finally got the voltage regs from China to complete the system. A bit noisy, as the water pump is dry,- quietens down with water. Switches in stages using Grahams magic timer, - 1. smoke on, 2. water and air on. There is actually smoke running constantly at a reduced level once everything is running, but very hard to film. I could turn it up but I don't want it to look like it's on fire\ud83d\ude02","subject":"HARTLEY FLARELINE, NEW PROJECT - STARTUP SMOKE TEST","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31lTklh4ciQ"}
HARTLEY FLARELINE, NEW PROJECT - STARTUP SMOKE TEST
A bit more refinement on the timing but getting there. Finally got the voltage regs from China to complete the system. A bit noisy, as the water pump is dry,- quietens down with water. Switches in stages using Grahams magic timer, - 1. smoke on, 2. water and air on. There is actually smoke running constantly at a reduced level once everything is running, but very hard to film. I could turn it up but I don't want it to look like it's on fire😂
Managed to shoehorn in a GT Power sound unit, and seeing the boat has a 'V8 installed' I thought I'd go with the V8tyest sound there was in the file😁😁. You can hear Grahams timer switch the air and water pumps on at the start of the vid, (after I switch the power on) - off-reset-on and off again before the engine start. The engine sound is a little bit muffled as the unit is buried under everything in the stern, but still gives a reasonable effect (well I think anyway😁)
Smoke, water and air are ready to go,- just waiting for some V regs to come via sampan.
{"text":"Managed to shoehorn in a GT Power sound unit, and seeing the boat has a 'V8 installed' I thought I'd go with the V8tyest sound there was in the file\ud83d\ude01\ud83d\ude01. You can hear Grahams timer switch the air and water pumps on at the start of the vid, (after I switch the power on) - off-reset-on and off again before the engine start. The engine sound is a little bit muffled as the unit is buried under everything in the stern, but still gives a reasonable effect (well I think anyway\ud83d\ude01)\n\nSmoke, water and air are ready to go,- just waiting for some V regs to come via sampan.","subject":"HARTLEY FLARELINE, NEW PROJECT, SOUND","media":[{"id":"159895592917","name":"159895592917","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/159895592917/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/159895592917/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"}],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aI43CVm-N3s"}
Managed to shoehorn in a GT Power sound unit, and seeing the boat has a 'V8 installed' I thought I'd go with the V8tyest sound there was in the file😁😁. You can hear Grahams timer switch the air and water pumps on at the start of the vid, (after I switch the power on) - off-reset-on and off again before the engine start. The engine sound is a little bit muffled as the unit is buried under everything in the stern, but still gives a reasonable effect (well I think anyway😁)
Smoke, water and air are ready to go,- just waiting for some V regs to come via sampan.
Thanks Ed, the GT Power unit has about 55 different car and diesel machinery sounds (unfortunately a lot of noisy high revving 4 cyl sounds) but there are a number of good ones which can be applied to boats.
JB
Re - Great sound effects!
Thanks Ed, the GT Power unit has about 55 different car and diesel machinery sounds (unfortunately a lot of noisy high revving 4 cyl sounds) but there are a number of good ones which can be applied to boats.
JB
Hi Pete, the throttle is mode 1 on the 9x. I usually use a 6ch HK6DF which I've converted to twin throttles for the MTB, HSL and ST (was bought as mode 2 but converted to mode 1 and modified to twin throttles). I bought 2 of those a few years back before they changed to inside aerial and digital trims, (basic 6ch, - one for small planes and one for boats) I think they were also a Fly sky with HK stickers, but they have been 100% reliable. I needed a bit of programming ability with the jet unit (end points ) for the bucket and a few more switches for lights etc, and with only one motor in this boat the 9x was perfect. I use it for planes as well and have about 6 models on it.
Left stick rudder is used for arming the smoke/water/air timer which Graham built.
JB
Hi Pete, the throttle is mode 1 on the 9x. I usually use a 6ch HK6DF which I've converted to twin throttles for the MTB, HSL and ST (was bought as mode 2 but converted to mode 1 and modified to twin throttles). I bought 2 of those a few years back before they changed to inside aerial and digital trims, (basic 6ch, - one for small planes and one for boats) I think they were also a Fly sky with HK stickers, but they have been 100% reliable. I needed a bit of programming ability with the jet unit (end points ) for the bucket and a few more switches for lights etc, and with only one motor in this boat the 9x was perfect. I use it for planes as well and have about 6 models on it.
Left stick rudder is used for arming the smoke/water/air timer which Graham built.
JB
Had a large moment of enthusiasm yesterday and fitted the jet unit and associated bits. Then it was time to wet its bum for a test. First off, the jet wouldn't suck water without pushing the stern down slightly, (as I expected due to the boats' light weight.) I added 300g to the stern and she was away😊 Happiness filled I were😁!. Reversing bucket works very well (even though it's a bit of a blob on the transom). You really need one if you don't want to go forward forever, trying not to 'sail yourself into a corner'.
I Need to waterproof the pushrod holes in the transom but the bellows I bought are too stiff and compress too much, so I'll have to come up with another method, (probably some deflectors for a start. Only a problem when in reverse with a bit of throttle on. Plenty of power with the 2s I was using, but motor is rated 12-24v so it would scream, -even with a 3s. I'll start with 2s and see how it goes. Might have an initial blast on the lake this week if all goes well, although I'd like to finish the deck bits first.
Just waiting for some Voltage regs to come so I can complete the electrical side with the fancy bits.. The mechanical and electrical sides are as good as done, Grahams timer is working perfectly, with the water pump and air pumps hooked up (going to install a VReg on each one plus the smoker).
{"text":"Had a large moment of enthusiasm yesterday and fitted the jet unit and associated bits. Then it was time to wet its bum for a test. First off, the jet wouldn't suck water without pushing the stern down slightly, (as I expected due to the boats' light weight.) I added 300g to the stern and she was away\ud83d\ude0a Happiness filled I were\ud83d\ude01!. Reversing bucket works very well (even though it's a bit of a blob on the transom). You really need one if you don't want to go forward forever, trying not to 'sail yourself into a corner'.\n\n I Need to waterproof the pushrod holes in the transom but the bellows I bought are too stiff and compress too much, so I'll have to come up with another method, (probably some deflectors for a start. Only a problem when in reverse with a bit of throttle on. Plenty of power with the 2s I was using, but motor is rated 12-24v so it would scream, -even with a 3s. I'll start with 2s and see how it goes. Might have an initial blast on the lake this week if all goes well, although I'd like to finish the deck bits first.\n\nJust waiting for some Voltage regs to come so I can complete the electrical side with the fancy bits.. The mechanical and electrical sides are as good as done, Grahams timer is working perfectly, with the water pump and air pumps hooked up (going to install a VReg on each one plus the smoker).","subject":"HARTLEY FLARELINE, FINALLY TAKES A BATH !","media":[{"id":"159895592917","name":"159895592917","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/159895592917/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/159895592917/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"}],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5li5cfjq7uI"}
Had a large moment of enthusiasm yesterday and fitted the jet unit and associated bits. Then it was time to wet its bum for a test. First off, the jet wouldn't suck water without pushing the stern down slightly, (as I expected due to the boats' light weight.) I added 300g to the stern and she was away😊 Happiness filled I were😁!. Reversing bucket works very well (even though it's a bit of a blob on the transom). You really need one if you don't want to go forward forever, trying not to 'sail yourself into a corner'.
I Need to waterproof the pushrod holes in the transom but the bellows I bought are too stiff and compress too much, so I'll have to come up with another method, (probably some deflectors for a start. Only a problem when in reverse with a bit of throttle on. Plenty of power with the 2s I was using, but motor is rated 12-24v so it would scream, -even with a 3s. I'll start with 2s and see how it goes. Might have an initial blast on the lake this week if all goes well, although I'd like to finish the deck bits first.
Just waiting for some Voltage regs to come so I can complete the electrical side with the fancy bits.. The mechanical and electrical sides are as good as done, Grahams timer is working perfectly, with the water pump and air pumps hooked up (going to install a VReg on each one plus the smoker).
In case you have a smoke device using these or any smoker you can fill remotely by this method. Just used a reservoir and (for the purpose of the test) a 6v water pump running as slowly as possible. Pump sucks fluid through the smoke tank from the reservoir and recirculates it back to same. Reservoir fluid level needs to be level with, or below the smoke tank inlets to avoid siphoning to the tank and flooding the wick. With this system it only takes a few seconds to fill. You could also use the same idea manually with a deck filler and overflow. Either system must be sealed (airtight) to avoid fluid draining from tank when not in use, ( Manual system - both tubes plugged after filling) This idea does away with disassembling E-pen to fill .
JB
{"text":"In case you have a smoke device using these or any smoker you can fill remotely by this method. Just used a reservoir and (for the purpose of the test) a 6v water pump running as slowly as possible. Pump sucks fluid through the smoke tank from the reservoir and recirculates it back to same. Reservoir fluid level needs to be level with, or below the smoke tank inlets to avoid siphoning to the tank and flooding the wick. With this system it only takes a few seconds to fill. You could also use the same idea manually with a deck filler and overflow. Either system must be sealed (airtight) to avoid fluid draining from tank when not in use, ( Manual system - both tubes plugged after filling) This idea does away with disassembling E-pen to fill .\nJB","subject":"E-CIG PEN SMOKE DEVICE AUTO FILLING.","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBADvmZA87I"}
In case you have a smoke device using these or any smoker you can fill remotely by this method. Just used a reservoir and (for the purpose of the test) a 6v water pump running as slowly as possible. Pump sucks fluid through the smoke tank from the reservoir and recirculates it back to same. Reservoir fluid level needs to be level with, or below the smoke tank inlets to avoid siphoning to the tank and flooding the wick. With this system it only takes a few seconds to fill. You could also use the same idea manually with a deck filler and overflow. Either system must be sealed (airtight) to avoid fluid draining from tank when not in use, ( Manual system - both tubes plugged after filling) This idea does away with disassembling E-pen to fill .
JB
Ref:- "liquid duck poop is pretty corrosive"
That did make me smile.
I used to always take a large bottle of fresh water with me for washing down my boats lake side and other members used to laugh at me but at least i knew that my boat was nice and clean ready to be put away ready for next time.
Martin555.
Hi Jb,
Ref:- "liquid duck poop is pretty corrosive"
That did make me smile.
I used to always take a large bottle of fresh water with me for washing down my boats lake side and other members used to laugh at me but at least i knew that my boat was nice and clean ready to be put away ready for next time.
Martin555.
Hi Martin, certainly necessary if using small brass or copper cooling pipes etc as they tend to get a bit of corrosion after a few years. Always wsh my boats down with mild detergent in a spray bottle and paper towels after running them (surprising how pond water stains if you don't). I wish I'd just wrapped the HSL inrunners with copper coils instead of fitting the fancy cooling jackets, as you are never sure what's happening to the painted steel motor casings inside, (hence the penetrating oil)! The motor end cap screws are probably welded in by now😀.
JB
Hi Martin, certainly necessary if using small brass or copper cooling pipes etc as they tend to get a bit of corrosion after a few years. Always wsh my boats down with mild detergent in a spray bottle and paper towels after running them (surprising how pond water stains if you don't). I wish I'd just wrapped the HSL inrunners with copper coils instead of fitting the fancy cooling jackets, as you are never sure what's happening to the painted steel motor casings inside, (hence the penetrating oil)! The motor end cap screws are probably welded in by now😀.
JB
Think I've finally sorted the mixing smoke and water for exhausts problem. Graham has already done his using the same pen / e-cig unit but with some nice electronic controls for the on off system, but not having the electronic abilities I've just gone with a more basic method. Wired up the pen and installed a filler tube (2 tubes are better - one for a breather) these are capped after filling to prevent air getting back from the pump. This system has a water pump, an air pump and the smoke unit, (all adjustable with their own voltage buck) Thanks to Martin for his pen suggestion. I was previously using large capacity elements fitted in various containers for my experiments (truckloads of smoke available) but these pens are great for tight spaces and don't draw much current.
Air, and a small amount of the cooling water are mixed by venturis just short of the exits (the air pushing the smoke and blowing the water clear of the smoke tubes). I've fitted the same system into my ST but am still waiting for the air pump from China (postal system problem there, then Chinese new year holidays with new rules apparently) Get the odd bubble at rest but with the low exhaust you can't have everything.
Latest vid with boat in the tank.
https://youtu.be/mb8KFfGafiM
JB
{"text":"Think I've finally sorted the mixing smoke and water for exhausts problem. Graham has already done his using the same pen / e-cig unit but with some nice electronic controls for the on off system, but not having the electronic abilities I've just gone with a more basic method. Wired up the pen and installed a filler tube (2 tubes are better - one for a breather) these are capped after filling to prevent air getting back from the pump. This system has a water pump, an air pump and the smoke unit, (all adjustable with their own voltage buck) Thanks to Martin for his pen suggestion. I was previously using large capacity elements fitted in various containers for my experiments (truckloads of smoke available) but these pens are great for tight spaces and don't draw much current.\n \n Air, and a small amount of the cooling water are mixed by venturis just short of the exits (the air pushing the smoke and blowing the water clear of the smoke tubes). I've fitted the same system into my ST but am still waiting for the air pump from China (postal system problem there, then Chinese new year holidays with new rules apparently) Get the odd bubble at rest but with the low exhaust you can't have everything.\nLatest vid with boat in the tank.\n\nhttps://youtu.be/mb8KFfGafiM\n\nJB","subject":"SMOKE AND WATER EXHAUST SORTED ?","media":[{"id":"158065303919","name":"158065303919","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/158065303919/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/158065303919/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"},{"id":"157961532638","name":"157961532638","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/157961532638/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/157961532638/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"}],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mb8KFfGafiM"}
Think I've finally sorted the mixing smoke and water for exhausts problem. Graham has already done his using the same pen / e-cig unit but with some nice electronic controls for the on off system, but not having the electronic abilities I've just gone with a more basic method. Wired up the pen and installed a filler tube (2 tubes are better - one for a breather) these are capped after filling to prevent air getting back from the pump. This system has a water pump, an air pump and the smoke unit, (all adjustable with their own voltage buck) Thanks to Martin for his pen suggestion. I was previously using large capacity elements fitted in various containers for my experiments (truckloads of smoke available) but these pens are great for tight spaces and don't draw much current.
Air, and a small amount of the cooling water are mixed by venturis just short of the exits (the air pushing the smoke and blowing the water clear of the smoke tubes). I've fitted the same system into my ST but am still waiting for the air pump from China (postal system problem there, then Chinese new year holidays with new rules apparently) Get the odd bubble at rest but with the low exhaust you can't have everything.
Latest vid with boat in the tank.
Thanks Peter, took a while to get there, should see the pile of stuff I've collected while doing all this experimenting! Have a smoker for every occasion😁!
JB
Thanks Peter, took a while to get there, should see the pile of stuff I've collected while doing all this experimenting! Have a smoker for every occasion😁!
JB
Well this started off brushless but it had no soul or character, I bought an Os 40 fourstroke and converted it to be water cooled, I then made my own reverse gearbox and clutch assembly and fitted a water pump so the engine will keep cool while stationary. it has nav lights and a working searchlight that I can move while running.
{"text":"Well this started off brushless but it had no soul or character, I bought an Os 40 fourstroke and converted it to be water cooled, I then made my own reverse gearbox and clutch assembly and fitted a water pump so the engine will keep cool while stationary. it has nav lights and a working searchlight that I can move while running.","subject":"Vosper","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=647n-Sk16Uk"}
Well this started off brushless but it had no soul or character, I bought an Os 40 fourstroke and converted it to be water cooled, I then made my own reverse gearbox and clutch assembly and fitted a water pump so the engine will keep cool while stationary. it has nav lights and a working searchlight that I can move while running.
Extremely impressive, a water-cooled four stroke with reverse. You must have some great metal working abilities and nice equipment. Video was fun to watch! Joe
Extremely impressive, a water-cooled four stroke with reverse. You must have some great metal working abilities and nice equipment. Video was fun to watch! Joe
Boat is Scratch built 36" British Power Boat 64ft High Speed ASR Launch which belonged to the RNZAF. The launch was one of the 22 built and was shipped to NZ in 1940. it was the only one of its type in the Southern Hemisphere. Model has twin motors, ESCs, sound units etc. Has remotely switched water pump for water cooled brushless 2000kv in runner motors and remotely switched lighting. Uses 2x 2200mah 2s LiPos for drive and 1 1800mah LiPo for the pump (also a separate battery for the LED lights. Boat is built with strip planked balsa on ply frame and fiber glassed. Deck is ply, wheelhouse is varnished balsa. The colour is as it was for most of its time in the RNZAF . Took about 5 years on and off to build and finished it last year. (please ignore the time date - can't get rid of it .
{"text":"Boat is Scratch built 36\" British Power Boat 64ft High Speed ASR Launch which belonged to the RNZAF. The launch was one of the 22 built and was shipped to NZ in 1940. it was the only one of its type in the Southern Hemisphere. Model has twin motors, ESCs, sound units etc. Has remotely switched water pump for water cooled brushless 2000kv in runner motors and remotely switched lighting. Uses 2x 2200mah 2s LiPos for drive and 1 1800mah LiPo for the pump (also a separate battery for the LED lights. Boat is built with strip planked balsa on ply frame and fiber glassed. Deck is ply, wheelhouse is varnished balsa. The colour is as it was for most of its time in the RNZAF . Took about 5 years on and off to build and finished it last year. (please ignore the time date - can't get rid of it .","subject":"ASR 64ft R/C VID 2","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FynvDE4Z5yg"}
Boat is Scratch built 36" British Power Boat 64ft High Speed ASR Launch which belonged to the RNZAF. The launch was one of the 22 built and was shipped to NZ in 1940. it was the only one of its type in the Southern Hemisphere. Model has twin motors, ESCs, sound units etc. Has remotely switched water pump for water cooled brushless 2000kv in runner motors and remotely switched lighting. Uses 2x 2200mah 2s LiPos for drive and 1 1800mah LiPo for the pump (also a separate battery for the LED lights. Boat is built with strip planked balsa on ply frame and fiber glassed. Deck is ply, wheelhouse is varnished balsa. The colour is as it was for most of its time in the RNZAF . Took about 5 years on and off to build and finished it last year. (please ignore the time date - can't get rid of it .
At Illfracombe pond last week . Have made an automatic feed water system for my coal fired Puffer and went to the pond to try it out. I think it needs bigger capacity pump as there was very little water in the boiler after 3/4 hour running. Gordons hydro is beating me up as usual !!! Les Breame
{"text":"At Illfracombe pond last week . Have made an automatic feed water system for my coal fired Puffer and went to the pond to try it out. I think it needs bigger capacity pump as there was very little water in the boiler after 3/4 hour running. Gordons hydro is beating me up as usual !!! Les Breame","subject":"Clyde Puffer","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SC6DOLPIZYM"}
At Illfracombe pond last week . Have made an automatic feed water system for my coal fired Puffer and went to the pond to try it out. I think it needs bigger capacity pump as there was very little water in the boiler after 3/4 hour running. Gordons hydro is beating me up as usual !!! Les Breame
Correction on details of Hydro. Gordon tells me the boat is Japanese from the 1980's made by Gunze Sangyo . it has the original Mitsubishi motor and mechanical speed wiper controller [gets very hot ! ] . The hull is fine glass fibre not plastic.
Correction on details of Hydro. Gordon tells me the boat is Japanese from the 1980's made by Gunze Sangyo . it has the original Mitsubishi motor and mechanical speed wiper controller [gets very hot ! ] . The hull is fine glass fibre not plastic.
Clyde Puffer project showing new water filling pump and electronic level control as yet untested !! Fingers crossed !!
{"text":"Clyde Puffer project showing new water filling pump and electronic level control as yet untested !! Fingers crossed !!","subject":"Clyde Puffer","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEiODR4TV8I"}
You're dead right there Leslie,
First we have to get the damn things to DO the work, and do it RIGHT!
The department printer would always go kaputt on Friday evening when I wanted to print a 130 page system description and the courier was stamping up and down outside 😡
"Brave New World" !!
Cheers, Doug 😎
You're dead right there Leslie,
First we have to get the damn things to DO the work, and do it RIGHT!
The department printer would always go kaputt on Friday evening when I wanted to print a 130 page system description and the courier was stamping up and down outside 😡
"Brave New World" !!
Cheers, Doug 😎
Scratch Built 1:32 scale Dover Harbour Board Tug, DHB Doughty.
The main hull is a standard Damen hull purchased from Mobile Marine Models, see their website for Portgarth.
the hull is fitted with 2 x T12 Motors for the main propulsion,2 x 60 degree kort nozzles for steering, with 2 x purpose made brass props.
Also fitted is a 12v Graupner water pump for the working fire monitor and Fwd spray bar, 2 x Mtronks 15 amp ESC's, Futaba steering servo and Futaba 40 MHz Receiver.
Approx Dimensions including fendering Loa 41" Beam 14"
{"text":"Scratch Built 1:32 scale Dover Harbour Board Tug, DHB Doughty. \nThe main hull is a standard Damen hull purchased from Mobile Marine Models, see their website for Portgarth.\nthe hull is fitted with 2 x T12 Motors for the main propulsion,2 x 60 degree kort nozzles for steering, with 2 x purpose made brass props.\nAlso fitted is a 12v Graupner water pump for the working fire monitor and Fwd spray bar, 2 x Mtronks 15 amp ESC's, Futaba steering servo and Futaba 40 MHz Receiver.\nApprox Dimensions including fendering Loa 41\" Beam 14\"","subject":"Tug 'DHB Dauntless'","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd5ntjuesVQ"}
Scratch Built 1:32 scale Dover Harbour Board Tug, DHB Doughty.
The main hull is a standard Damen hull purchased from Mobile Marine Models, see their website for Portgarth.
the hull is fitted with 2 x T12 Motors for the main propulsion,2 x 60 degree kort nozzles for steering, with 2 x purpose made brass props.
Also fitted is a 12v Graupner water pump for the working fire monitor and Fwd spray bar, 2 x Mtronks 15 amp ESC's, Futaba steering servo and Futaba 40 MHz Receiver.
Approx Dimensions including fendering Loa 41" Beam 14"
