This version of a smoker box uses an E-Cig element in an alloy electronics enclosure.I gave the lid and box a 7mm haircut on the mill to reduce the size, (now 50x50x26, - was 50x50x33) but it could still be 1/2 the width. haven't found a smaller alloy box yet but might come across one, (only really needs to be 35mmx35mmx25mm The element is mounted on a bracket screwed to the bottom of the box (the box being the resevoir and neg) and against the outlet tube, and the pos wire runs through the side (in silicone tube) to the element.

The box is packed with cotton wool which is surrounding the element and soaked in smoke fluid (in this case baby oil) but leaving a passage through the center for air flow. I'm waiting for a couple of air pumps to arrive but I've used the old smoker unit pump again to demo the smoke and pulsing, (makes good smoke rings too)😊

The element is capable of taking 4.5v, but I'm only using 2v for the test and it smokes quite well. The pump is running on 7v but can be varied from around 3v - 8v. The large tubes are to allow for later exhaust fitting (water or dry stack). Once I get the air pumps I'll be running this one with the water again. I've done this (like Grahams version to be able to easily replace the element as the Heng Long smokers, while working ok (but noisy) have non replaceable elements, so if you kill one, it's off to file 13 at the end of the bench😉😁

The pump actually works quite well and if you mount it on sponge rubber it is reasonably quiet and could still be useful in a boat with a bit of interior room.

Inspired by jbkiwi's experiments on a smoker, and interested in developing one for my Crash Tender I have built an experimental rig based on using an e-cig for the smoke generator and an air pump. The air pump is driven by an electronic lash-up which pulses the pump at a rate depending on the throttle setting. The video shows two tests, first with the water off, then with it on.

Found a way of pulsing the water using the pump of a dead smoker (Hen Long smoker that is) In this test I used a pump to prime the smoker pump (smoker pump on 2s) and the rest is just syphoning through the pump to the smoker. You can vary the amount of 'spitting' from the exhaust by running the pump at low voltage or maybe using a peristaltic pump with a small flow.

I did not connect the fan powered smoker unit as I ran out of silicone tube, but the result should be the same as the last vid but with 'spitting' water. Using the smoker pump for water is not perfect as it would need sealing properly, and it's cumbersome, but you will get the idea. I have ordered a couple of small air pumps, so might have another crack when they come. I'll use them at the exhaust to disrupt the water flow if they are powerful enough, rather than use the smoker pump.

Modified smoker (tank only) with 30x30mm fan assisted airflow.

Changed the piping around and modified the outer tube so the smoke tube now comes straight in the back, and goes almost to the end of the outer tube. The water now comes into the outer tube and flows round the smoke tube and out, stopping any suck back to the smoke pump.

Finally managed to get water and smoke coming out an exhaust suitable for a model. Basic test but it works. Bit hard to see in the vid, but doing it over the sink is not ideal. Needs a few mods but I know how to do it now without the smoke pump sucking the water back. Next is a fan powered forced air system to do away with the noisy and pulsing pump. Using a Heng Long smoker pump on 8v. Might cut the water down to get more smoke, as the smoker does't like back pressure of any sort.
The search continues😀

Well I had one of these back in the early 1970,s been looking for years for another one must of been a rare boat. So I was surprised when this turned up on eBay last week. So I had to buy it, the seller did not mention that the engine a Merco 35 was locked solid and all the head bolts were missing and the whole inside of the boat was soaked in sticky castor oil exhaust residue, but this is how I like them loft fresh and not messed with. I don’t think it’s hardly been used, I managed to get the engine apart after heating it up with a blow lamp looks like it’s hardly been run but the liner got a fair bit of rust on it so not sure I can use it. The only thing to remove the sticky castor oil was 25% nitro fuel, the one I bought in the 70,s cost me £27 this wreck I bought in 2018 £70 but I will enjoy restoring it, this is the boat as how I got it and now with the engine out that was another nightmare 😁

We had a brilliant though exhausting day at Winterbourne house and gardens on Saturday with lots of steaming and BBQ bacon!! Here is a superb Marten Howes Balis in aluminium owned by John Esher.

Scratch built from plans .model Aircraft from Japan . Smokes from the 4 exhaust ports. at the moment she sits too low in the water ( rather top heavy ). will need a bit more thinking about

this hydroplane had to have major work done to strengthen both sponsons internaly as well as filling with expanding foam,this stops it from sinking in the event of a flip over and to put a little weight in the front to help keep the nose down.
fitted a tuned wrap to center pipe,water pump and also added extra fiberglass on the bottom because this was so thin it was flexing at speed and was hitting the bottom of the engine!!!!!. re-painted it too and put my own choice of graphics on.
I fitted the pulse water pump because I wouldn't be running flat out all the time and needed to cool the engine at lower rpm's,and the pulse water pump would do just that with twin inlets and outlets to keep the exhaust and engine head cool.

Of all the data files on the Crash Boat I have not ever seen any details/ drwgs for the vehicle specifically used to transport the Crash Boat types ( Ie the British Power Boat co ) had transporters for their craft. Anyway I enclose a picture of the OFFICIAL English designed TRANSPORTER vehicle for the Crash Boat and a photo of verification as modelled by Peter Dimberline. I have kept my model stock standard, still have the original plastic red Graupener prop of old I think it is a 30 with a nick or two. Soft copper brake tubing pipe (1/8 I/d) is only around the head and one of the inline exhaust resonators has a water tube outer casing to cool the exhaust piping and inner tube gas temperature which takes out the energy/heat of the exhaust gas and dramatically reduces noise. Hope my hints help .All the best Lyle.

More of the Crash boat at our sea water creek and of Peter Dimberline taking a rest after an exhausting day at the radio sticks steering the model. After all, I only did the car loading, driving to the site, carrying fueling and starting, entry to the water and launching and taking the model out of the pond , cleaning and refueling etc to go again. You can see Peter is getting his stamina back. I only ever used 3;1 fuel and in later years 4;1 fuel, just how fast do you want to go? and I have defeated that(annoying) high whine of model engines with my muffler system. Needle valve is left alone and two or three clicks turn out/in in Summer or Winter is of no consequence, maybe too many fiddlers with model engines breaks down reliability? I usually wind the plug out 1 to 2 turns and start her dry and with one or two turns (electric starter belt now) of the flywheel and a fraction choke she STARTS at a bit above idle setting on carby , then throttle to idle disconnect plug lead and then screw in glo plug and lift model casually to pond and slowly place in water at IDLE. Just a bit of a mild throttle check / rudder function check, water outlet check, LOOK AHEAD and if safe clear release and gently open up.