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13 posts · Page 1 of 2Firstly I bought a 2426 4200kv brushless 2-3s which was too powerful and too heavy for the boat size. The length is 38cm.
And the 30Amp esc was also too big for it's size.
After that I tried small 180 brushed motor with 20A brushed esc w/brake. it was perfect (still it's heavy😂).
The bridge and deck is made by 1.75mm pvc,torpedos are made of wooden pencil.
Small battery space takes a 2s 500mah lipo. 30mm 3blade propeller.
YouTube video link is here:
- RNinMunichFleet AdmiralExcellent video Sakibian, well done👍
and you're very brave to sail such a tiny boat in waters like that 😲
Hat off Sir 😉
Cheers, Doug 😎
BTW: you should put this boat in your 'Harbour', just click on 'Boat Harbour' on the left of the Home page and then 'Add your model boat' at the top.Liked by Sakibian
Two ESPs control brushed and brushless motors for lift and propulsion. Motor tube ball-raced at each end with a 9x6 pusher prop. Realistic performance and sounds like a turbo prop. Tricky to control in anything stronger than a light breeze. Best on water.
Edit: I've managed to upload a video of her in action on u tube ,see link below
- RNinMunichFleet AdmiralHi Ned, Welcome aboard 👍
On my Sea Scout (little brother of the Sea Queen) I used silicon sealant (a la bathroom!) and a small brass screw in each corner. it had to be good cos I had the RX, RX battery and rudder servo tucked in there!
My boat was also started by Dad in the sixties. He had it free running with a Taycol Target and wet (very!) 6V lead acid cells. I upgraded to RC and Decaperm motor about 25 years ago and am currently restoring and converting to brushless 😲
Happy boating, Cheers Doug 😎Liked by Brucef102
- MAXTONMidshipmanNice model, very neat electrics, well done.
How come an American builds and English lifeboat?
By the way its contra- rotating props, but if you have a swimming pool as a test tank you must take some criticism, its OK I am only jealous.
My first attempt at a model boat was a scratch built Rother
at one inch and a quarter to the foot, a big buggar and heavy it had a car battery for power and ballast.
Cheers
Max 4clubs
OA Length 710 mm, Beam 180 mm. AUW 1.98Kgs.
She carries the name 'JAYSHIL". it is a portmanteau derived from the names of my late parents.
Model features working lights as prescribed by the international Maritime Authorities:
http://www.bosunsmate.org/seamanship/lights.php
In keeping with Rules 22 and 23:
http://www.bosunsmate.org/seamanship/rulesoftheroad.php#rule23
Brushed 550 motor, Reversible ESC, 2S LiPo, Turnigy Blue Prop, Working Lights and indigenous Sound Generator unit.
Video is available here: (you may need to turn down the volume a bit as the horn is rather loud)
I would welcome any queries and/or comments on this build.
Thanks and Regards,
VC
Condition is good and the build seems to be to a good standard. I intend to replace the single proptube with a double and use a couple of brushless motors. 👍
The first photo shows the boat as it was bought from an E Bay auction in late February for the price of 14.50, for that price I had to bid on it, even thought I had a new kit of the same model on order from a model shop from the end of December, before VAT went up. The models turned out to be the 4 feet versions some 11 inch wide and now is about 19 inch high. This model turned up several days before the new kit turned up, and was a bit worse for ware than anticipated as the deck had started to part company from the hull. After stripping the deck of all remaining deck furniture the deck was re laminated to the hull, prop shafts and rudder tubes also refitted using plenty of resin and cloth. A rubbing strip was fitted around the deck hull line to tidy up the visible damage. When I was happy with repairs the hull and deck was rubbed down and sprayed. Using the information in the new kit and some photos of actual boats, MJB's (My junk boxes) supplied all the required parts to scratch build 90% of the models fittings as seen, this includes the figures on the deck. These being obtained off an EBay site as 1/24 unpainted train scene figures that required some or may be a lot of adjustments to their appearance. Several items have still to be made and fitted. As I'm working on her sister boat P147, will make extra parts in one go.
The boat has twin electric drives, the motors, MFA 919D series, are fitted with their own 2.5/1 gearboxes and they drive 40 mm three bladed conta rotating brass props. They have independent 15 amp Electonize speed controllers run from two 7.2 volt packs in series. The switching arrangements for lighting has still to be finished off. Don't know if I'll fit a sound system as the boat is for my grandson.
The boat has had several trips on the Society's water at Cwmbran with myself and my grandson at the helm. it seems to go fast enough for him. (The new boat P147 has been built with triple screws.) Can't wait to see both models on the water together.
Hope you have enjoyed the pictures and information.
Regards
GreyWolf
- wilsonAble Seamanhi
I have just bought a home made model just like this one of ebay it is home built and built to a very high standard it had a glow engine in a one stage but by the look of things I dint think it has seen the pond , I was wondering if you could help me out by sending me some detailed pic's of the deck and fittings please
my email is (Email Removed - PM Only)
thank you for eny help ho can give
wilson
This is an update,weather seemed ok so tried her out,very Impressed,got right up on the plane.Handling not that good think a bigger rudder is needed.
Running an 850 torpedo motor on 12volt battery.
Only problem was a leak,water running up prop tube so have removed and re-greased ready to try again.
Fire monitors missing hoping somebody can help.
- aprestneyLeading Seamanvery nice boat! I have two of these 93/94 thay are a very nice model.
I did try uploading photos of them to the site. Anyway fire monitors do some times come up on ebay for sale. if not try model dockyard or westbourne model ships web sites. Hope this helps from a new member Albert. - Dave MVice AdmiralHI Boat looking good. From your previous post I see that the model was built in the 1950's. is it possible that an I.c. motor was originally used as they were common during that period? it is possible that the shaft and/or bearings will be well worn. Grease will help but not cure the problem and will add drag and increase motor current (amps), thus reducing your sailing time. I suggest you remove the prop shaft and see if it is worn where the bearings are. if so you may be able to obtain a new complete prop shaft of the same size. if the inner shaft is is a nice fit in the original just substitute the shaft. if the original bearings are no good replace with the new bearings from the replacement shaft. They can be teased out with a blunt knife and gently use of pliers. if you hace access to a lathe or a friend with one, you could just lap the shaft and make new bearings. Good luck dave
It has no running gear but was originally powered by a nitro engine, I am hoping to convert it to electric power, the problem is I have no idea what type of motor to use or what length prop tube or prop sahft is required, I don't have any drawings or information about the boat. I am presently cleaning and rubbing the panels down so that I can re glue most of the joints as thay are mostly starting to come loose.
Will post some more photos as I progress.
- sbambiLeading SeamanDave, I have removed the prop shaft because it was bent and the resin around the prop tube/hull was cracked it was also worn quite badly. I need to purchase a new tube and prop shaft once I decide what motor to fit, I can then decide on the length of prop shaft. Thanks for the info.
Alan