Scratchbuilt Mermaid from Keil Kraft Eezebilt plans
Following the legendary Keil Kraft Eezebilt plans for a Mermaid Ocean going boat. Plans exploded to 200%. Trying to build it completely out of Plywood and Foam Board.
OA Length 710 mm, Beam 180 mm. AUW 1.98Kgs.
She carries the name 'JAYSHIL". it is a portmanteau derived from the names of my late parents.
Model features working lights as prescribed by the international Maritime Authorities:
Top Boat is the City of ELY after the II world war, with guns removed.
Bottom Boat is the SS JOHN W Brown partly rebuilt to wartime structure.
Class: EC2-S-C1 Type Liberty Ship
Launched: September 7, 1942
At: Bethlehem-Fairfield Shipyard, Baltimore, Maryland
This Boat was bought as the City of ELY Merchant ship, I am in the middle of converting it into the SS John W Brown which was an armed merchant ship built during the second world war. This ship will now sail with the grey funnel section which is part of the Cygnets Model Boat club Maidstone
It has had a complete hull respray, gun platforms built along with new radio control parts and now lights
Sometime around 1968 I found a small set of drawings, about A4 size, for Sct. Knud in (I think) Ships Monthly. So I enlarged to 1:32 scale and made my model plank-on-frame with GRP overcoat. She is powered by a 6V Pittman motor driving a self-made scale prop and 2:1 gearbox. Steering is effected via chain and quadrant as per prototype! Everything bar the anchor, anchor chains and steering chains is self-made using a variety of materials (brass, plastics, 'Perspex', and copper electro-deposited cowl vents). Recently I fitted her out with LED lights: interior, navigation and working. One might notice that I abhor a working boat looking like "Daddy's yacht" and so I apply custom dings, stains, oil spills, scratches, wear and tear to my tugboats 😀 My Knud runs as well today as she did 45 years ago and in all that time has only needed one repair to her gearbox!
HI fellow model leers.this is my latest model.Built in 1926' for the Ffyfe(bananas) family. Originally it was run on steam,but in 1939 converted to diesel,this was kept until 1957 when all the staterooms were replaced by cargo holds . She was then made into a feeder bringing eleven thousand boxes from Rotterdam to Southampton. She was scrapped in the seventies.my model of her was from 1926 the scale is approx 1/30th her length is 48 inches including bowsprit, and has a beam of 10 inch amidships. She is totally scratch built, plank on frame, all the decks are individually planked with black card in between , wheel house and all other parts are mahogany. She runs on a decaperm geared motor @ 6 volts, and the lighting system consists of 10 accommodation lights, port and starboard , wheelhouse, and both mast headlights,the large saloon skylight is also lit up with a set of disco lights on a separate circuit. The funnel houses a heavy duty smoke unit switched on by switching unit.
💭 Hi Chiefpurser, Stardust looks really good, did you have problems with buoyancy, and how much does it weigh, how do you transport and launch such a big model?
Looks a good pool, where do you sale?
HI thanks for the comments. No problems with buoyancy only 6oz lead to bring her upright, a bit tender but will be adding a further 16 oz of ballast before next outing. She will weigh 18 lbs. transport is not a problem back seat of the car. Lifting and lowering into lake with two strops. This is not really a big model. I have one at 58 inches. We sail in several locations in Scarborough, North Yorkshire. My next model is already on the stocks and will be a jet boat a bit like a super doper cabin cruiser, own design and scratch built as per stardust. Regards jim
This Model of the J. R. More tug which was one of the very last large Steam Tugs built on the Clyde in 1961.
Scratchbuilt from the 1:48 scale plans of a sistership the F.C. Sturrock with various modifications for J. R. More. Powered by twin 12v geared motors.
The J. R. More Tug is a large tug and still exists as a Museum exhibit at the Durban Maritime Museum and well worth a visit in South Africa.
My thanks to Keith Marks who was a Master of J. R. More and the F. C. Sturrock among others for his photographs, help and interest during the construction of this model and is now a good friend.
This video was taken at the Sumner Ponds which is used on alternate Thursday by the Southwater Dabblers MBC.
Video is not very good quality but will remake with a better video.
this is the Vanquisher, she was the first Diesel powered ship towing tug built for the thames in 1955.
the model is scratch built plank on frame, with 12volt motor, lights,and revolving radar.
HI Dave yes she is a rough representation of am old T2 type tanker. made of plywood in 7 sections each section is held to the next with two vertical pins through slots and brackets, she has her own power as well, she was made for towing around the lake we use at Bluewater shopping centre,I will put some pictures of her construction in the build blog pages for you, all the best george.
J. R. MORE - LAST OF THE LARGEST STEAM TUGS BUILT ON THE CLYDE. The best looking tugs ever built!
This model is scratch build at 1:48 scale of the SAR&H Durban tug J. R. More, which was the last large steam tug built on the Clyde in 1962.
It took over 2 years to complete this model, which was my first scratch build from the modified plans of a sister tug called the F.C Sturrock, which was also stationed at Durban as the shift tug for that harbour. Other tugs of the class were also stationed at Port Elizabeth and Cape Town.
The J. R. More was the newer day tug in Durban, most often used to service the Union Castle ships and others in, out of Durban and remembered by so many visitors to South Africa of that time.
This model tug on the water has differential motor control, software linked with the rudder, can go about on the spot and a delight to sail as a model, capable of 6 or more hours on the water. Working Rotating Radar, lights and woop-woop sounder as per the original tug. I would also like to install the Telegraph bells, however these would drive fellow modellers to distraction, as they were a very distinctive sound and very regular, Implanted and well remembered by the crews and those in and around the harbour, even today. The engines on the other hand were almost quiet and by all accounts very reliable.
This model is ballasted mainly by two 7 Ah 12 Volt SLA Batteries for the main drive motors and a 2 Ah 12 Volt SLA (Aft ballast) for the Lights, Radar and Sound unit. All up weight is 14Kgs and capable of above scale speed from the two MFA 6:1 ratio Geared Motors driving two 4 bladed 70mm screws.
This model has onboard charge regulator circuit, built-in minature dual volt meter to allow quick on-board voltage inspection and single plug-in charge and regulator socket for charging all 3 Batteries together.
The actual full size J. R. More tug still survives and can be visited at the Durban Maritime Museum in Durban, South Africa. Local supporters are undergoing essential repairs, restoration and preservation with private and company financial support.
J R More is the only surviving large steam tug left of this class and as Important to the skills of the Scottish shipbuilders of the Clyde.
This Is a scratch built paddle steamer named "Jeanie Deans "
This was scratch built apart from the fibre glass hull which I purchased.
Model is 65" long with a beam of 10". Power is by electric running via a gearbox at 300 rpm. Ihave taken almost 2years to complete the model working most days on it. Attention to detail was the order of the day.
I am using a Planet T5 Tx and Rx, 5 channels. I have a smoke generator pushing steam out of the twin funnels,synchronised to forward speed, faster the revs, faster the steam. Conventional rudder operation.
Have an operating Radar, ships horn, simulated steam noise varies as speed is altered, full navigation lights,all cabin lights can be switched on and to keep the 106 passengers happy I have a Banjo Band playing to complete the scene. Have sailed it recently at Peterborough and performs really really well. Have to say it tends to attract a lot of interest.
I am now constructing the Ayton Cross tug in 1:32 scale, with all the detail I want.Plan is to tow the Jeanie Deans around when completed as well assailing her
Believed to be scratch built, evidence of old 1 gallon REDEX oil container forming main deck, bits of Mecano used as stiffening and support.
It has a Basset Lowke model 1461/u (motor, stern tube, prop shaft and prop) Set.This dates from the mid 1930's and would have cost 7/- Shillings for those old enough to remember, that would have been abut a day and a half's wages. The photo's show what the motor looked like as it came out and then after cleaning and testing, and yes it runs very smoothly in forward and reverse, from 3 volts up to 12 volts, seems to be quite good at 6, so will probably use when rebuild complete.
As you will see from photo's there is a lot of restoration to do before sailing again.
Now you've stopped laughing, can you identify the type of ship it's meant to be, I thought a Coaster.
Second decent run with this boat- rather sedate I think. At the moment it's drawing 33amps (stationary, 16.5 amps each motor) with both motors running from a 12v Nimh pack. I want to get each motor running off a separate LiPo and then I could probably increase the prop size- still well within the esc rating and the motors are very cool after a run at the moment. it seems a bit back heavy and I'd like to get it running flatter- so will try moving the batteries more amidships.
HI Ian
See you are making good use of the wattmeter 😀
Like the video and agree the balance could benefit with a bit more weight amidships.
Listening to the video sound suggests your motors are not developing full power so I suspect the NiMh's are not capable of delivering the amps required.
You could try smaller props with the NiMh's to see if the performance Improves, could be your motors are working just below the optimum.
Dave, I found that the Nimh batteries were dropping off to around 9v at full power when measured with the wattmeter and this is why I want to go for Lipos, one on each motor. At the moment I'm taking everything from one pack and I think this is the limiting factor.
When I get my Lipos I will stick them in the middle and try larger props, probably 40mmS types to begin with, having measured what's going on with the wattmeter first. it may be that the existing props will do better if the batteries are delivering up what the motors want. You're right, there is still plenty of headroom with this setup.
Just got to rake up the cash for two largish capacity Lipos!
The wattmeter is a splendid purchase- I'd say essential for this type of thing.
Anyway, glad you liked the video- she still looks quite good toodling around at that speed.
I acquired this Snowberry in need of some TLC. I found some pictures of a flower class captured by the Germans in France. I used a bit of modellers licence but I think it does represent the ship. it is powered by a MFA 540, 6volt gel cell and ripmax esc. Tx rx 204 gig
