In case you have a smoke device using these or any smoker you can fill remotely by this method. Just used a reservoir and (for the purpose of the test) a 6v water pump running as slowly as possible. Pump sucks fluid through the smoke tank from the reservoir and recirculates it back to same. Reservoir fluid level needs to be level with, or below the smoke tank inlets to avoid siphoning to the tank and flooding the wick. With this system it only takes a few seconds to fill. You could also use the same idea manually with a deck filler and overflow. Either system must be sealed (airtight) to avoid fluid draining from tank when not in use, ( Manual system - both tubes plugged after filling) This idea does away with disassembling E-pen to fill .
JB
{"text":"In case you have a smoke device using these or any smoker you can fill remotely by this method. Just used a reservoir and (for the purpose of the test) a 6v water pump running as slowly as possible. Pump sucks fluid through the smoke tank from the reservoir and recirculates it back to same. Reservoir fluid level needs to be level with, or below the smoke tank inlets to avoid siphoning to the tank and flooding the wick. With this system it only takes a few seconds to fill. You could also use the same idea manually with a deck filler and overflow. Either system must be sealed (airtight) to avoid fluid draining from tank when not in use, ( Manual system - both tubes plugged after filling) This idea does away with disassembling E-pen to fill .\nJB","subject":"E-CIG PEN SMOKE DEVICE AUTO FILLING.","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBADvmZA87I"}
In case you have a smoke device using these or any smoker you can fill remotely by this method. Just used a reservoir and (for the purpose of the test) a 6v water pump running as slowly as possible. Pump sucks fluid through the smoke tank from the reservoir and recirculates it back to same. Reservoir fluid level needs to be level with, or below the smoke tank inlets to avoid siphoning to the tank and flooding the wick. With this system it only takes a few seconds to fill. You could also use the same idea manually with a deck filler and overflow. Either system must be sealed (airtight) to avoid fluid draining from tank when not in use, ( Manual system - both tubes plugged after filling) This idea does away with disassembling E-pen to fill .
JB
Ref:- "liquid duck poop is pretty corrosive"
That did make me smile.
I used to always take a large bottle of fresh water with me for washing down my boats lake side and other members used to laugh at me but at least i knew that my boat was nice and clean ready to be put away ready for next time.
Martin555.
Hi Jb,
Ref:- "liquid duck poop is pretty corrosive"
That did make me smile.
I used to always take a large bottle of fresh water with me for washing down my boats lake side and other members used to laugh at me but at least i knew that my boat was nice and clean ready to be put away ready for next time.
Martin555.
Hi Martin, certainly necessary if using small brass or copper cooling pipes etc as they tend to get a bit of corrosion after a few years. Always wsh my boats down with mild detergent in a spray bottle and paper towels after running them (surprising how pond water stains if you don't). I wish I'd just wrapped the HSL inrunners with copper coils instead of fitting the fancy cooling jackets, as you are never sure what's happening to the painted steel motor casings inside, (hence the penetrating oil)! The motor end cap screws are probably welded in by now😀.
JB
Hi Martin, certainly necessary if using small brass or copper cooling pipes etc as they tend to get a bit of corrosion after a few years. Always wsh my boats down with mild detergent in a spray bottle and paper towels after running them (surprising how pond water stains if you don't). I wish I'd just wrapped the HSL inrunners with copper coils instead of fitting the fancy cooling jackets, as you are never sure what's happening to the painted steel motor casings inside, (hence the penetrating oil)! The motor end cap screws are probably welded in by now😀.
JB
Found a way of pulsing the water using the pump of a dead smoker (Hen Long smoker that is) In this test I used a pump to prime the smoker pump (smoker pump on 2s) and the rest is just syphoning through the pump to the smoker. You can vary the amount of 'spitting' from the exhaust by running the pump at low voltage or maybe using a peristaltic pump with a small flow.
I did not connect the fan powered smoker unit as I ran out of silicone tube, but the result should be the same as the last vid but with 'spitting' water. Using the smoker pump for water is not perfect as it would need sealing properly, and it's cumbersome, but you will get the idea. I have ordered a couple of small air pumps, so might have another crack when they come. I'll use them at the exhaust to disrupt the water flow if they are powerful enough, rather than use the smoker pump.
{"text":"Found a way of pulsing the water using the pump of a dead smoker (Hen Long smoker that is) In this test I used a pump to prime the smoker pump (smoker pump on 2s) and the rest is just syphoning through the pump to the smoker. You can vary the amount of 'spitting' from the exhaust by running the pump at low voltage or maybe using a peristaltic pump with a small flow. \n \n I did not connect the fan powered smoker unit as I ran out of silicone tube, but the result should be the same as the last vid but with 'spitting' water. Using the smoker pump for water is not perfect as it would need sealing properly, and it's cumbersome, but you will get the idea. I have ordered a couple of small air pumps, so might have another crack when they come. I'll use them at the exhaust to disrupt the water flow if they are powerful enough, rather than use the smoker pump.","subject":"EXHAUST SMOKER MKIV WATER PULSING","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i0WYHTM6jZQ"}
Found a way of pulsing the water using the pump of a dead smoker (Hen Long smoker that is) In this test I used a pump to prime the smoker pump (smoker pump on 2s) and the rest is just syphoning through the pump to the smoker. You can vary the amount of 'spitting' from the exhaust by running the pump at low voltage or maybe using a peristaltic pump with a small flow.
I did not connect the fan powered smoker unit as I ran out of silicone tube, but the result should be the same as the last vid but with 'spitting' water. Using the smoker pump for water is not perfect as it would need sealing properly, and it's cumbersome, but you will get the idea. I have ordered a couple of small air pumps, so might have another crack when they come. I'll use them at the exhaust to disrupt the water flow if they are powerful enough, rather than use the smoker pump.
Re - As the saying goes good one Cyril
Thanks peter, not quite perfect but it's certainly heading in the right direction. At least it might get people thinking about something different to try with their boats, which if tuned right, might give them extra Brownie points at the pond. Would also be even better with a good sound unit! I'm sure someone will come up with a good idea to refine it sooner or later, (probably on the long drop at 2 in the morning!😁😂!) If I can refine it more, I'll post the results.
JB
Re - As the saying goes good one Cyril
Thanks peter, not quite perfect but it's certainly heading in the right direction. At least it might get people thinking about something different to try with their boats, which if tuned right, might give them extra Brownie points at the pond. Would also be even better with a good sound unit! I'm sure someone will come up with a good idea to refine it sooner or later, (probably on the long drop at 2 in the morning!😁😂!) If I can refine it more, I'll post the results.
JB
Made this in about 6 weeks for my son who was not interested so I now use it for general on water filming etc. It was scratch built from a few photos and is all balsa construction, sealed and painted. Powered by a single 12v 380 motor with a 28mm 3 blade prop. Runs flat out at around 15,000 rpm.
{"text":"Made this in about 6 weeks for my son who was not interested so I now use it for general on water filming etc. It was scratch built from a few photos and is all balsa construction, sealed and painted. Powered by a single 12v 380 motor with a 28mm 3 blade prop. Runs flat out at around 15,000 rpm.","subject":"36\" Maiami Crash boat used for camera boat.","media":[{"id":"1542994342","name":"1542994342.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1542994342/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1542994342/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1542994313","name":"1542994313.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1542994313/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1542994313/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"156302829415","name":"156302829415","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/156302829415/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/156302829415/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"},{"id":"1542994047","name":"1542994047.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1542994047/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1542994047/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"156302833062","name":"156302833062","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/156302833062/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/156302833062/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"},{"id":"156302847298","name":"156302847298","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/156302847298/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/156302847298/s","isImage":false,"ext":"file"}],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CgB3ZagPNh4"}
Made this in about 6 weeks for my son who was not interested so I now use it for general on water filming etc. It was scratch built from a few photos and is all balsa construction, sealed and painted. Powered by a single 12v 380 motor with a 28mm 3 blade prop. Runs flat out at around 15,000 rpm.
I haven't run nitro boats for a number of years now Doug, same with the planes, everything has been converted to electric long ago, (all the nitro planes included.) No more mess and smell of burnt fuel in the house, no having to take a roll of paper towels and soap sprayer and wash your plane or boat before putting it in the car, and no more having to put a plastic 'nose bag' on the planes to hang them up so you don't get oil dripping on your carpet!
Re- Graupner 'Premium Line', certainly sounds like their quality has dropped, you couldn't fault them in the 70s, gone the way of all the others due to competition from the home of Oolong tea by the sound of it.
I haven't run nitro boats for a number of years now Doug, same with the planes, everything has been converted to electric long ago, (all the nitro planes included.) No more mess and smell of burnt fuel in the house, no having to take a roll of paper towels and soap sprayer and wash your plane or boat before putting it in the car, and no more having to put a plastic 'nose bag' on the planes to hang them up so you don't get oil dripping on your carpet!
Re- Graupner 'Premium Line', certainly sounds like their quality has dropped, you couldn't fault them in the 70s, gone the way of all the others due to competition from the home of Oolong tea by the sound of it.
"everything has been converted to electric long ago"
Know what you mean John.
I've still got a 5ltr canister of pepped up glow fuel kicking about in the cellar.
Probably degenerated into uselessness by now🤔
Maybe I'll stick in the car or use it to start the barby😊
Re Premium line-
Belfast wasn't so bad, but had the same crappy plastic props held on with grub screws.
So she's getting threaded shafts and brass props from Raboesch 😉
On Graf Spee though I noticed a lot of resin casting faults, evidence of air bubbles and smudged detail, as well as over / under-spray in the painting and lifting of the wooden decks.
Had to inject liquid CA glue round the edges to stop it peeling ☹️😠
Best thing on both ships were the faultless hulls with double skinning!😉
One thing surprised me with Belfast though-
the recommended SLA batteries don't fit! I couldn't get them in any which way 🤔
Not to worry, they go in my 1:72 destroyer with ease 😊
BTW I prefer lapsang souchong 😋
"everything has been converted to electric long ago"
Know what you mean John.
I've still got a 5ltr canister of pepped up glow fuel kicking about in the cellar.
Probably degenerated into uselessness by now🤔
Maybe I'll stick in the car or use it to start the barby😊
Re Premium line-
Belfast wasn't so bad, but had the same crappy plastic props held on with grub screws.
So she's getting threaded shafts and brass props from Raboesch 😉
On Graf Spee though I noticed a lot of resin casting faults, evidence of air bubbles and smudged detail, as well as over / under-spray in the painting and lifting of the wooden decks.
Had to inject liquid CA glue round the edges to stop it peeling ☹️😠
Best thing on both ships were the faultless hulls with double skinning!😉
One thing surprised me with Belfast though-
the recommended SLA batteries don't fit! I couldn't get them in any which way 🤔
Not to worry, they go in my 1:72 destroyer with ease 😊
BTW I prefer lapsang souchong 😋
Zoom 1 (Interceptor) Mono boat.
Built from a Glassfibre hull, brought on Ebay for £35 the hull is a slim mono racing type with a self-righting side cabin it runs a 1400W 14V 2958 4200KV Brushless Motor and 29-S Water Cooling Jacket with additional air cooling fan.
I did not want to use a flexi drive as high maintenance and prone to failure so the shaft runs via two universal joint one at each end. the propeller is a 38mm copper alloy
The ESC is a 200W and water cooled the twin rudders supply separate water one for the motor and one for the ESC.
The rudder are positioned to reduce prop-walk and are hinged to prevent damage if you hit a object in the water and also for ride adjustment.
Turn fins and trim tabs for ride adjustment were provided by a spares kit for another boat. also foamed and added an inner sealed hatch, a rubber bump strip and safety loop.
{"text":"Zoom 1 (Interceptor) Mono boat.\nBuilt from a Glassfibre hull, brought on Ebay for \u00a335 the hull is a slim mono racing type with a self-righting side cabin it runs a 1400W 14V 2958 4200KV Brushless Motor and 29-S Water Cooling Jacket with additional air cooling fan.\nI did not want to use a flexi drive as high maintenance and prone to failure so the shaft runs via two universal joint one at each end. the propeller is a 38mm copper alloy\nThe ESC is a 200W and water cooled the twin rudders supply separate water one for the motor and one for the ESC.\nThe rudder are positioned to reduce prop-walk and are hinged to prevent damage if you hit a object in the water and also for ride adjustment.\n\nTurn fins and trim tabs for ride adjustment were provided by a spares kit for another boat. also foamed and added an inner sealed hatch, a rubber bump strip and safety loop.","subject":"Zoom 1 (Interceptor)","media":[{"id":"1520875092","name":"1520875092.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1520875092/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1520875092/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1520875140","name":"1520875140.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1520875140/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1520875140/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1520875124","name":"1520875124.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1520875124/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1520875124/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1520875155","name":"1520875155.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1520875155/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1520875155/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1520883088","name":"1520883088.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1520883088/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1520883088/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
Zoom 1 (Interceptor) Mono boat.
Built from a Glassfibre hull, brought on Ebay for £35 the hull is a slim mono racing type with a self-righting side cabin it runs a 1400W 14V 2958 4200KV Brushless Motor and 29-S Water Cooling Jacket with additional air cooling fan.
I did not want to use a flexi drive as high maintenance and prone to failure so the shaft runs via two universal joint one at each end. the propeller is a 38mm copper alloy
The ESC is a 200W and water cooled the twin rudders supply separate water one for the motor and one for the ESC.
The rudder are positioned to reduce prop-walk and are hinged to prevent damage if you hit a object in the water and also for ride adjustment.
Turn fins and trim tabs for ride adjustment were provided by a spares kit for another boat. also foamed and added an inner sealed hatch, a rubber bump strip and safety loop.
It certainly looks like we are having notification problems again, First it was very few getting through and now we get 14 YES that is fourteen of the same.
It certainly looks like we are having notification problems again, First it was very few getting through and now we get 14 YES that is fourteen of the same.
Been flying planes for many years and never thought to try boats until very recently. Just tried out the Feilun FT-011 and thought it was awesome for a first time single hull boat. Fairly quick, good run time and the fact that it will self right if it flips is a big bonus. Could not flip it myself despite some full speed tight turns but think it probably would if jumped some waves. You would expect for a relatively cheap outfit that the seals might not be perfect but after the first run there was virtually no water inside. 5.5 minute running time as well which seems decent for a 4S2200 pack. Really enjoyed it and looking forward to taking it out on the water again soon. Filmed with the Panasonic AG-UX180 4K Pro camcorder.
{"text":"Been flying planes for many years and never thought to try boats until very recently. Just tried out the Feilun FT-011 and thought it was awesome for a first time single hull boat. Fairly quick, good run time and the fact that it will self right if it flips is a big bonus. Could not flip it myself despite some full speed tight turns but think it probably would if jumped some waves. You would expect for a relatively cheap outfit that the seals might not be perfect but after the first run there was virtually no water inside. 5.5 minute running time as well which seems decent for a 4S2200 pack. Really enjoyed it and looking forward to taking it out on the water again soon. Filmed with the Panasonic AG-UX180 4K Pro camcorder.","subject":"FeiLun FT-011 HIGH SPEED Ready to Run electric Racing Boat","media":[],"youtubeUrl":"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spQzSgFRWNw"}
FeiLun FT-011 HIGH SPEED Ready to Run electric Racing Boat
Been flying planes for many years and never thought to try boats until very recently. Just tried out the Feilun FT-011 and thought it was awesome for a first time single hull boat. Fairly quick, good run time and the fact that it will self right if it flips is a big bonus. Could not flip it myself despite some full speed tight turns but think it probably would if jumped some waves. You would expect for a relatively cheap outfit that the seals might not be perfect but after the first run there was virtually no water inside. 5.5 minute running time as well which seems decent for a 4S2200 pack. Really enjoyed it and looking forward to taking it out on the water again soon. Filmed with the Panasonic AG-UX180 4K Pro camcorder.
R6M yacht the hull was built from plan by a friend he is building a new R6M Called Romanza I was lucky enough to get this from him it will be getting a coat of paint after I have finish the undercoat and making sure the fin box is completely sealed the new masts & fittings on order from
PJ Wiles hopefully it will be ready for the spring
{"text":"R6M yacht the hull was built from plan by a friend he is building a new R6M Called Romanza I was lucky enough to get this from him it will be getting a coat of paint after I have finish the undercoat and making sure the fin box is completely sealed the new masts & fittings on order from \nPJ Wiles hopefully it will be ready for the spring","subject":"Blackjack","media":[{"id":"1422130107","name":"1422130107.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1422130107/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1422130107/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1422130115","name":"1422130115.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1422130115/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1422130115/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1422130124","name":"1422130124.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1422130124/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1422130124/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1422130131","name":"1422130131.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1422130131/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1422130131/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
R6M yacht the hull was built from plan by a friend he is building a new R6M Called Romanza I was lucky enough to get this from him it will be getting a coat of paint after I have finish the undercoat and making sure the fin box is completely sealed the new masts & fittings on order from
PJ Wiles hopefully it will be ready for the spring
this is my latest project just got running gear in boat is fully wired main deck sealedworking trawl winch made wheelhouse and hatch just sitting in position bulwark frames allin and trimmed one photo shows finished boat ahc waterson b444 skiboo this boat is all scratch built going to be finished rigged as a trawler scalloper on a fibre glass hull by bill wood
Robert waterson angus
{"text":"this is my latest project just got running gear in boat is fully wired main deck sealedworking trawl winch made wheelhouse and hatch just sitting in position bulwark frames allin and trimmed one photo shows finished boat ahc waterson b444 skiboo this boat is all scratch built going to be finished rigged as a trawler scalloper on a fibre glass hull by bill wood \nRobert waterson angus","subject":"wandering star","media":[{"id":"1417969043","name":"1417969043.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1417969043/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1417969043/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1417969126","name":"1417969126.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1417969126/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1417969126/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1417969263","name":"1417969263.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1417969263/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1417969263/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1417969388","name":"1417969388.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1417969388/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1417969388/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
this is my latest project just got running gear in boat is fully wired main deck sealedworking trawl winch made wheelhouse and hatch just sitting in position bulwark frames allin and trimmed one photo shows finished boat ahc waterson b444 skiboo this boat is all scratch built going to be finished rigged as a trawler scalloper on a fibre glass hull by bill wood
Robert waterson angus
Photos for Nasraf:
As promised, close-ups of the hatch seal. The rim attached to the deck is 0.5mm mahogany. The inner skin of the drop cockpit is two strips of 0.5mm mahogany glued together. The outer skin and cabiln are made from 1.5mm mahogany. The curve was formed by plank bending soaked mahogany strip. The channel is filled with Vaseline to ensure a waterproof seal.
{"text":"Photos for Nasraf:\nAs promised, close-ups of the hatch seal. The rim attached to the deck is 0.5mm mahogany. The inner skin of the drop cockpit is two strips of 0.5mm mahogany glued together. The outer skin and cabiln are made from 1.5mm mahogany. The curve was formed by plank bending soaked mahogany strip. The channel is filled with Vaseline to ensure a waterproof seal.","subject":"Velsheda","media":[{"id":"1413235131","name":"1413235131.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1413235131/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1413235131/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1413235179","name":"1413235179.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1413235179/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1413235179/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1413235222","name":"1413235222.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1413235222/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1413235222/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1413235264","name":"1413235264.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1413235264/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1413235264/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
Photos for Nasraf:
As promised, close-ups of the hatch seal. The rim attached to the deck is 0.5mm mahogany. The inner skin of the drop cockpit is two strips of 0.5mm mahogany glued together. The outer skin and cabiln are made from 1.5mm mahogany. The curve was formed by plank bending soaked mahogany strip. The channel is filled with Vaseline to ensure a waterproof seal.
A scratch built model of a Gloucester USA fishing schooner 1900 era. Pine plank on frame, 2 channel radio with a Lego 9volt drive unit as sail winch controlled each way by servo and micro switches, the deck is planked on a thin ply sub-deck and deck openings are sealed with Vaseline. The deep keel slides up into a box through the keel and secured with a bolt.
{"text":"A scratch built model of a Gloucester USA fishing schooner 1900 era. Pine plank on frame, 2 channel radio with a Lego 9volt drive unit as sail winch controlled each way by servo and micro switches, the deck is planked on a thin ply sub-deck and deck openings are sealed with Vaseline. The deep keel slides up into a box through the keel and secured with a bolt.","subject":"\" Elsie & Olwen \"","media":[{"id":"1394373335","name":"1394373335.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1394373335/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1394373335/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1394373480","name":"1394373480.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1394373480/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1394373480/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1394373578","name":"1394373578.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1394373578/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1394373578/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1394373670","name":"1394373670.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1394373670/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1394373670/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
A scratch built model of a Gloucester USA fishing schooner 1900 era. Pine plank on frame, 2 channel radio with a Lego 9volt drive unit as sail winch controlled each way by servo and micro switches, the deck is planked on a thin ply sub-deck and deck openings are sealed with Vaseline. The deep keel slides up into a box through the keel and secured with a bolt.
HI Lubberland,
A boat after my own heart! Looks really good. Like the level of detail, even if you can't see it on the water. Which sails are controlled by the winch?
How successful is the sailing peformance with all that sail area aft?
Regards,
Cap'n Jim.
HI Lubberland,
A boat after my own heart! Looks really good. Like the level of detail, even if you can't see it on the water. Which sails are controlled by the winch?
How successful is the sailing peformance with all that sail area aft?
Regards,
Cap'n Jim.
HI there Cap'n Jim, Glad you like it. The sails are all controlled by the winch line round the after deck. I'll try to post some pics soon, Cheers, Lubber.
HI there Cap'n Jim, Glad you like it. The sails are all controlled by the winch line round the after deck. I'll try to post some pics soon, Cheers, Lubber.
This is a aero -naut toben tug it is kit built it has a aero-naut 6v geared motor it runs on a 6v 4amph sealed battery has a old type speed controller sliding arm type the battery last in excess of two hours its great with korts nossole steering the hull and cabin are abs and the most water proof boat I have ever sailed on Southport model boat club one of the fleet have changed the set up have a old mfa electro thottle esc in instead now yet to try the new setup
{"text":"This is a aero -naut toben tug it is kit built it has a aero-naut 6v geared motor it runs on a 6v 4amph sealed battery has a old type speed controller sliding arm type the battery last in excess of two hours its great with korts nossole steering the hull and cabin are abs and the most water proof boat I have ever sailed on Southport model boat club one of the fleet have changed the set up have a old mfa electro thottle esc in instead now yet to try the new setup","subject":"TOBEN TUG","media":[{"id":"1360501446","name":"1360501446.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1360501446/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1360501446/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1360016844","name":"1360016844.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1360016844/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1360016844/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
This is a aero -naut toben tug it is kit built it has a aero-naut 6v geared motor it runs on a 6v 4amph sealed battery has a old type speed controller sliding arm type the battery last in excess of two hours its great with korts nossole steering the hull and cabin are abs and the most water proof boat I have ever sailed on Southport model boat club one of the fleet have changed the set up have a old mfa electro thottle esc in instead now yet to try the new setup
Just rescued off ebay seller who had it in storage since he inherited it in 1976, it is a Fairey Huntsman, scratch built sometime in early 60's by his father who used to sail it near Manchester. its fitted with a SANWA 2F-2M RC system which seems to be still functioning. I will be doing restoration over the next few months, as there are a few cracks showing along most of the seems and I will need to sand and seal and repaint.
{"text":"Just rescued off ebay seller who had it in storage since he inherited it in 1976, it is a Fairey Huntsman, scratch built sometime in early 60's by his father who used to sail it near Manchester. its fitted with a SANWA 2F-2M RC system which seems to be still functioning. I will be doing restoration over the next few months, as there are a few cracks showing along most of the seems and I will need to sand and seal and repaint.","subject":"Kathy's Clown","media":[{"id":"1348860743","name":"1348860743.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1348860743/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1348860743/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1348860685","name":"1348860685.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1348860685/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1348860685/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1348860620","name":"1348860620.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1348860620/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1348860620/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"},{"id":"1348860581","name":"1348860581.jpg","caption":"","url":"https://hobby.land/media/1348860581/l","thumbUrl":"https://hobby.land/media/1348860581/s","isImage":true,"ext":"jpg"}],"youtubeUrl":""}
Just rescued off ebay seller who had it in storage since he inherited it in 1976, it is a Fairey Huntsman, scratch built sometime in early 60's by his father who used to sail it near Manchester. its fitted with a SANWA 2F-2M RC system which seems to be still functioning. I will be doing restoration over the next few months, as there are a few cracks showing along most of the seems and I will need to sand and seal and repaint.
Ref:- "liquid duck poop is pretty corrosive"
That did make me smile.
I used to always take a large bottle of fresh water with me for washing down my boats lake side and other members used to laugh at me but at least i knew that my boat was nice and clean ready to be put away ready for next time.
Martin555.
JB