First trials after upgrading the hull to brushless motor, instead of original 550 size motor. this test was on a 2 cell 7.4v lipo, I did try a 3 cell, but the stretch of water we use isn't long enough, I run out of water too quickly, so for now, 2 cells power it is. its still a handfull on turns, as the turn fins will take some setting up to get the best out of them to maintain a degree of speed, rather than drag factor off the turn fins.
Mmmm.... turn fins? Perhaps he means a 'dagger plate' a vertical fin that should help prevent the boat from rolling and filpping on turns. Just theorizing I'm not sure though if two would be the answer, I wonder if they might actually hinder. With a single plate of the right size placed centrally the boat would be still be restrained from too much sideways roll yet not lose any directional control being able to pivot on the single plate, where as two plates would tend to act like two fixed rudders and be hinder to turning. I also fly planes and I agree with Dave M about fine control, if using a computerized radio dialing in both rates and expotential helps compensate for over enthusiastic waggling of the sticks and is nearly always required for fast craft particularly first time out. Anyway that sure looks like fun, that's a serious handful and on just 7 volts, well done!
Dagger boards are onl;y used on sail boats, turn fins are a fine edges plate, fitted to the transom, and adjustable in height/depth to the water, so it gives less "bite" when running straight, but digs in on turns to get the hull to bite in to the water.
A rudder is fitted, so there is no way of fitting one of these centrally my freind, they have to fit either side/one side of the transom.
"trimming the radio" does not cater for the movement on a fast boat, thats purely down to the person behind the sticks at the time!
The "end game" on the video was when the rudder dug in too deeply and the boat just spun around due to an "over steer" moment........... thast just what can happen when playing around setting up brushless systems.
This is my 1/24th scale S80 Schnellboot,it has a Metcalfe GRP hull,the superstructure is a mix of 3mm/4mm ply and 2mm plasticard,it has 3 x Graupner 600FG motors that have a 3.1 ratio gearboxes fitted,the props are 55mm witches hat type,and it has 3 x Electronize 30amp speed cont,it has a really good scale speed running on 2 motors but nearly jumps out of the water when all 3 are engaged,It was scratch built from plans,but not by me,I got it in plain grey,I did the paint job and added the crew,I sail her on a pond near to my home in Edzell,
Not your typical submarine but certainly an unusual semI submersible. Scratch built by fellow club member Brian Clewes this is a most striking looking vessel. Fiberglass hull and moulded perspex window. Home built waterjet uses a large 900 (I think) brushed motor, water cooled speed controller and 14.4v LiPo. Looks really spectacular on the water and Brian is working on the ballast to enable the model to remain just submerged. Video to follow in due course.
SemI Scratch build from a my hobby store plan and hull [only] kit. After 18 months its still an ongoing build 🔨 , as my research in to the original vessel continues so I can get it as correct as possible. 😯
I have managed to get all the correct light patterns on and working, as well as twin radar and now finally have got the crane to operate remotely from the radio transmitter. 👍
Sorry but No, This boat has not yet been on display anywhere as not yet completely finished, merely undergoing "sea trials" to check ballasting and seaworthyness if you get my meaning, as due to its flat bows, it is not the smoothest of vessels to steer, or if given too much throttle it heaves a lot of water over the bows.
Bought off ebay, where else! Had been started as a cruiser, with one very small electric motor,then put in a loft for goodness knows how many years.Replaced prop shaft with 2, 40mm r/h and l/h props, 2x 540 motors running through 40a esc.Radio is 27mhz. 2ch. would like to swap to 2ghz to get rid of the unsightly aerial! I am awaiting some plasticard windows to Improve the looks and will slowly add fittings as and when.I tend to sail it every now and again on the boating lake in BUXTON, no-one has shouted as yet,though I'm not sure the swans approve.!: The photo on the water was just as the power was running down, none as yet at speed.It is very manoeverable with the twin rudders,almost on the gunwhales at speed.
This is an Arowana 22.2" mono EP hull, allegedly self righting, however, on it's maiden run I turned it too fast and flipped it, sadly the self righting didn't, and a hatch clip failed, the end result was that after about 40 seconds of being upside down, the back end dissapeared, and it ended up 70% submerged with about 6" of bow pointing towards the sky. I have since had a play in the bath, and cannot get it to self right, also it leaks water from the factory fitted divider for the flood chamber, so not the quality that I thought it was, don't quite know how to rectify that one.
Part built Models by design hull. But enough together for some sea trials.
Fitted with twin 900 motors, twin 14.8 lipo batteries and a full action electronics power package AND sound system. it sounds as well as it goes !
The size of speaker all depends on available space. if you fit the biggest possible speaker Im a cramped position, its never going to give out maximum output, as objects in front of it will disperse the sound waves, so in this instance, its far better tio fit a smaller speaker and be able to allow free space for the sound waves to exit properly.
Obviously, if you can fit the bigger version, its gives more bass and sounds far better.
remember to install the speaker on a firm base plate and ensure this fits neatly to wherever you have decided to install. now to create the "speaker sound box". if you think of an ordinary speaker at home on your stereo or surround sound system, it is in a sealed box [or cabinet], well same applies to get optimum performance out of a speaker in your boat too. I fitted mine in the bows of the Mersey, facing the stern, and used the "not used" bow section as the sound box, you also have the deadening effect of the water, which aids the sound output out of the speaker. remember to make an "air port" in the speaker plate, to allow air "in/out" too, not too big or small a hole mind.
the better you create the sound box and make sure the space in front of the speaker is clear, the better the sound output.
best of luck.
Incidentally, I have now purchased an m troniks version, I WAS going to install in another "smaller" boat, but after listening to it, I dont think I'll bother and save up for another action system and stick the mtroniks one on ebay!
many thanks for the info I think I will go for the big base one as I have plenty of room in my boat its quite large one so won't be a problem for room if you look in the build blog section on this site you will see it.its the 60inch fire boat,I will let you know how I get on once it has arrived and fitted.
cheers for the help Arthur. you boat sound so good 👍
HI fellow modellers, Another model from the RADMC fleet at the fleetshaven workshop and boat yard in Ponthir.This model was scratch built using a fibre glass hull and plan obtained from a fellow modeller at the Bridgend Show in 2007. The front door and some fittings are made from plastic card and tube, decks are from ply and timber. On board figures are from the pound shop and car boot sales, modified by myself. The on board tank and half truck are RTR models that I have modified their looks to fit into a WWII theme for the craft. This craft has twin drive, 400 motors via 2.5/1 gearboxes. I tend to use both sticks on the TX for drive as this allows me to turn the model on a six pence.The dispatch door works from a rotary pot on the TX and via a rotary sail winch servo in the hull. I have just modified my Planet 5 TX to allow me to change my radio gear in this craft. This model has had meny trips on Cwmbran Boating Lake and at shows the society attend during the year. Still haven't allowed the tank or half track to run off the landing craft up the lake side slipway. one day I might get it on video. Hope you enjoyed the photo's. Regards GreyWolf
This is GRP hull and a part vac-formed cabin and the rest is scratch build using plastic card! Fittings are from my own range along with the crew. Prop shafts and "A" frames are home made along with the rudders which are to scale form John Lamberts drawings.
Two Groupner eco600 motors are used connected to a 6volt cell lasting around 3 hours running.
Have had this boat in my shed for 2yrs,so I decided now to start doing it up. The boat was given to me by my friend who had it in his garage for 20 yrs, and it was given to him by his boss as it was sitting in his garage for along time.So I am not sure how old it is I think it is a Yeoman 34" model, because it has all metal cast fittings, as shown in the photo with rest of fitting which were on the boat. The hull paint work and decals are the original one that came with the boat, the motor which came fitted to the prop is a Johnson made in Hong Kong.So if some can tell me the approx, year that would be helpful. Could some one tell me where I can get the fire hoses for the stern well please.
re suction hoses , Ive just made ours by using a section of sink unblocking snake (from tescos A£ 1.27 ! ) stretched out and covered in 7mm heat shrink tubing before being heated / shrunk , the ends will be made up in brass tubing . jon
HI Tugboat
Just seen your post. Very nice looking model. 😀 Yeomans were the official supplier of white metal fittings for the Aerokits fire tenders and from the pictures it certainly looks like an original Aerokits model. I sold just such a kit and the Yeomans fittings on this site last year.
Another boat the same as mine seen on a local auction site. Anybody have any ideas as to the manufacturer ?. The dimensions are L 31", W 71/2", H 7" and by the looks of it were Ic powered (or at least mine was and was later changed to electric). Hulls are balsa and planked to 1st 1/4 then finished to the stern with with longer angle cut 'planks'. Cabin top is ply sides with balsa roof and deck is ply and has printed ? planking.
Someone will know but I haven't been able to pin it down to any kit even after going through all my 60s and 70s Model Boat mags.
Thanks for that bit of info Steve, will head off on that tack and scour the high seas of the internet for any sightings of a vessel of that name. Will let you know if I find her.
HI Steve, thanks for pointing me in that direction, you were close with the Maycraft and they do look a bit similar, but sorry, no cigar. Your suggestion led me to the Vintage Modelworks site and I was told it is a 'FAIRACRE 11, luxury Thames cruiser' built from Modelmaker plan 709 and designed by Philip Conolly (late 50s - 60s) you were correct on the date though and now I can give it a name, (even if it does sound like a piece of farmland!)
Mystery solved and thanks to Mike Cummings of Vintage Modelworks for his info. I have found there are still plans available as well and I may purchase one just for the hell of it to go with the boat. Bit of a coincidence to find 2 of these unusual subjects here in NZ, be interesting to know when they were built and where, (may have even been Imported by people coming to live here) next question,- has anyone built one ?
